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Thank you, Klaus.
Your freehands really are artworks on its own (I love the tiger on the Charon!).

Anyway, thanks for accepting the challenge.

Torben

So, who's next?

I think SONS of ORAR was called up (before I stepped in).
So hopefully he will post something soon?

If not, I'd like to aks ORKI if he can write something on his painting.

The stained glass looks good - will have to try that one.

Might get my wife to have a go as she has done some actual glass staining before. Also a way to get her into the hobby perhaps...

Painting Battle Worn marines

remember to thin your paint


After a black undercoat the model was sprayed red. If you don't have an airbrush I’ll recommend a white or grey undercoat with a basecoat of blood red across the whole model. Note i have not glued the boltgun in place so i can paint it separately.


The white areas are then base coated with astronomican grey.


The red areas are washed with baal red and the white is highlighted with a mix of skull white and astronomican grey


The red is then highlighted and the areas where there are scuffs and scrapes on the armour with a mix (about 1:1:1:1) or blood red, mechrite red, blazing orange and bronzed flesh (dwarf flesh works if you don't have bronzed flesh)


More bronzed/dwarf flesh and blazing orange is added to the mix above so the ratio is now fleshrange:blood:mechrite 3:2:1:1


Metal areas are then picked out with boltgun metal.


The gold is base coated with tinbitz or a mix of scorched brown and shining gold. Then highlighted with shining gold.


A little mithril silver is added to the shining gold and used for a final highlight.
At this point you can highlight white areas white if you wish.


The freehand is planned out. Some people like to do a dot to dot, personally i use a series of thin lines


This is then filled out. This is a little wonky but it's only a table piece so doesn't matter really.


A mix of brown and black is lightly sponged on to create paint chips.


The model is washed liberally with devlan mud and gryphon sepia to simulate grime and muck.


The eyes are picked out in green and the model is based ready for battle.

SoO

Nice little run through there Sons, Good Job!

cheers Hits the spot just a quick one i'll do a good and high level one as soon as i have time

So, err, who's next?

S_P

This thread is so awesome - I learned a lot ,especially the Simple Green and Jewelling Saw advice. Feel free to tag someone on my behalf...


I saw this advice and thought about a master greenstuff sculptor at my FLGS:

endtransmission wrote:Ooooo what to write?!
So. The tip. Before putting metal to green stuff, gently (and very carefully in the case of the knife) rub the edge of the implement on the skin around your hairline or temple. This will build up a small amount of natural oil on the tools and prevent stickage. Using any other oil or lubricant can do slightly odd things to the greenstuff...

I want this thread to continue so, this isn't my tutorial, but his. He was assembling true-scale Sanguinary Guard from Terminator parts... ala 300 movie... and they looked awesome. It took him a while to learn these tips, so I spent an afternoon chatting to him. I then field tested these techniques myself and found... I had a lot to learn and a lot more practice to do...

Misc Greenstuff Tips

Lubrication

LICK EVERYTHING. I watched the sculpting master rub saliva on the table, on his fingers , on his tools , even on his hobby knife. Saliva gives the best convenience in terms of quantity (free and copious), ease of dispensing, drying time and doesn't require cleaning up like vaseline.

Keep re-applying lubricant.

If you use Vaseline, you have to wash it off the tool and the part when you're done. If you are not careful, vaseline can cause green stuff not to stick when it isn't cleaned up properly; i.e. you don't keep tabs of what has vaseline and what does not.

Sculpting

Train yourself NOT to use your fingers on greenstuff, as it leaves oily fingerprints. Use tweezers wherever possible.

Cutting a big piece and hewing down on the model is much easier than cutting a small piece, finding it too small and having to repair later.

The smaller the sculpted line, the sharper the finished edge. Do this by rolling the greenstuff into a long tube, then attaching it onto the model. Then cut it with the detail you need.

Cut on the table (flat surface), not on the model, whenever possible.

Press lightly, like using your mind to move the green stuff (jedi mind power). Go with the grain of your work, avoid changing grain or it will be hard to get a smooth finish.

AVOID pressing hard or it will be difficult to get a smooth finish.

Green stuff shrinks as it cures.

Smooth surfaces (such as Marine Armour) are more difficult to sculpt than organic pieces (fur) because it is hard to get a large smooth finish with green stuff.

For flowing cloth (such as purity seal parchment) use superglue on the "reverse" (back) side of the parchment to reinforce. After applying superglue, you have 5(!) seconds to put it into the right shape. My tutor used this for terminator purity seals.

For large pieces (such as arms) be ready to pin them as green stuff does not keep its shape well when it has overhanging pieces that bear load

Two pins are better than one pin (a piece can pivot on one pin). For interchangable parts (such as vehicle weapons), use a pin and a magnet instead.

For pressing in details on double-sided pieces, you need a firm backing ... this is important for details such as mohawks. To do this, create a "foundation piece" first out of green stuff then, after that is dry, put another layer detail of greenstuff on and press details onto each side of the foundation. This will prevent one side from distending the other (see attached).

Practice... a lot!

Be PATIENT! You can ruin a piece by not giving it significant time to dry. The best way is to sculpt several pieces (e.g. a whole squad) and you can rotate through pieces so that you are back at the first scupted piece after the 6 hour curing time.

Bits

Keep bits from your kits DO NOT THROW. If you have an interest in conversions later then they can be used.

Plasticard is ideal for large , flat surfaces, stock these.

Keep your green stuff in the freezer for extended storage when not in use.

Multi-part plastic is much better than metal for conversions, so avoid metal unless you need a very specific bits piece, or a lot of patience with the jewellers saw / pin vice. The pieces are heavier (hence harder to pin) and more difficult to cut into shape.

Certain plasticine / clay that will harden when baking makes an ideal mould. For large numbers of similar parts (e.g. uniform helmets for entire squads) then a mould is necessary.

Timings

5 seconds - the time you have to put superglue and shape a flowing parchment

2 mins - the time it takes to drill a hole in a plastic piece / green stuff for pinning

6 mins - the time it takes to drill a hole in a white-metal piece for pinning

15 mins - 1st stage of curing, green stuff (you have 15 minutes to shape after the yellow and blue are mixed)

2 1/2 hours - 2nd stage of curing, green stuff (you can now press sharper details into a firm model or use green stuff as foundation)

6 hours - green stuff is fully cured and ready for painting. You can also cut and sand green-stuff at this point.

110 hours - the time it takes to make a squad of 6 sanguinary guard from green stuff and bits

I've got some Eldar grav tanks on the way, and when I have them done I'll supply an LED / painting tutorial,,,,

keep posting guys, I learned something new today and that has made me really happy!




blue

Heya guys n girls, i been reading this thread and i love it! I have lurked a few threads here and there but not posted yet. Reading all of these guides and step by steps gives me a reason to get around to doing one too!!! I noticed a user saying that this thread is bad due to the fact that only known people are being challenged, however there is no reason why not to put a guide up myself now, especially since there hasn't been too much action in this thread in 2011 so far. Once im done writing my guide up i will post it... WARNING IT MAY BE LONG AND LOTS OF PICTURES!!!!!!

Brother Tobias.


=

Heya guys n girls, hope you all find something out of this guide if you spend the time to read it, be you a novice or veteran at painting!

All C&C&C welcome! After all it's what allows us to grow as painters knowing where to improve

Here is my step by step (apologies if i have a million steps!!!) walk through on painting a table top Orc!!! at least i hope you agree with me that it is table top quality!!

On a quick side note before i get started here, i dont actually paint Orcs as my army, my army is currently being planned out with a colour scheme for my own successor chapter of the Blood Angels.

OK!!! LETS BEGIN

=========================================================
When i paint a single model rather then batch paint, i find i normally have the model mounted on an old soft drink lid or a paint pot.



This is the orc that we will be working with




Get your miniature and try to remove all of its mold lines you can get a blade / file to, this will help you apply the paint easily onto the model and will remove the shading from washes pooling around these thin lines on the model where there is supposed to be no shade or highlight!

orc with mold lines!
our orc with none!

Ok so now the mold lines are off the arms, the shoulders, the legs and the inner thigh lets base our model!

Using the sand i have from the tool kit from GW
also the PVA glue, any glue is fine

Now you don't have to water your glue down but i like to because i feel it allows me to apply it where i want with more ease.



Next dump the base in the sand tub!!



Now to prevent a mess turn it on its side and tap the excess sand back into the tub.



LETS UNDERCOAT OUR MODEL!!!!!

You can use either paint from the pot or use a spray can for the undercoat, i would spray the model however it is late and i dont want to go outside at 3am it will be fine for demonstration purposes to pot paint this.

Invest in one of these cans
Just using Chaos Black from GW, all of my paints are GW.
The Basecoat GW brush, again all my brushes are from GW.

When i undercoat i thin the paint down a fair amount more then i normally do with water, dont make the paint too thin or else it wont coat the model!!!
You will know if it's too thin because it will look like this...

As you can see, the paint isn't sticking to the model where applied, the water in the paint is making it pool to the side and pulling the paint into clumps rather then a consistent surface.

After base coating your model and painting the sand too it will look something like this!

Front on.
Rear view.

Alrightio! Now we are going to do the base coat of the skin!

Using bleached bone just over all of the skin areas of the model, dont need to be too precise as its only the first colour and we can fix up anything else along the way or just paint over it with the other bases.
now using just the standard brush from GW

There we have it, our orc's flesh has its base done





Lets grab our Mithril Silver and apply it to all the areas we want to have metallic.


I decided to leave some black areas of the swords casing

I only painted a few of the casings of the pistol

Now we are going to paint the shirt of our model, we will be using Dheneb Stone for this step.



Still using a standard brush for this, you can always switch to a size that you feel more comfortable with

The straps and belts on the model are all going to be painted Calthan Brown.


There are some small areas with the belt that you will need to use a finer brush, either the detail
or the fine detail brush.



Once the belts and straps have been painted we are going to paint the pants next, using Adeptus Battlegrey





Now we are going to paint our models boots, wristband and glove on the left hand. We will be basing this with Mechrite red, my pot however has no sticker on it anymore.

Mechrite Red
Boots

Glove

Wristband

Alright, now lets paint those little pouches on this fella! Grab Iyanden Darksun and this is the base colour




Ok, now lets start applying some washes since we have our base colours all applied to our lovely miniature

Lets start with the first wash, Devlan Mud. If your new to painting you will soon learn that Devlan Mud other washes are a god send! They make painting table top quality a lot less of a pain then going through stage by stage of dark recesses to highlighting around them.
THIS ISN'T TO SAY THAT WASHES = YOU NEVER HAVE TO PAINT!!!!!!!

Devlan Mud
Now we will be using the Wash Brush for this, some people are unsure why to use the wash brush opposed to any other brushes. The wash brush can hold a lot of the wash it self inside the bristles, this is great because it allows your brush more time on the miniature rather then in the pot!

Ok so apply Devlan Mud to the flesh of our model, apply it thick and spread it around into the recesses, this will start to 'muddy' our flesh on the orc.
Also apply to all of the straps and the pants aswell!




Apply Devlan Mud to the shirt as well, this will darken it up.

Now apply another wash, Gryphonne Sepia. This wash will be applied to most of our metallic areas we covered earlier.


This gives the effect that the sword is rusted and tarnished

The gun has some tarnished areas around the welding and fixtures

Now apply the wash Thraka Green the all of the skin on our model!!!






After wash paint more Dheneb Stone onto the shirt, around the middle and raised areas. Try to stay away from where the wash has formed pools of shadow in the recesses or curves.
The cloth and shirt also have some further highlights of Bleached Bone and a few areas have Pure Skull White too.

In a few of these pictures the straps have also had some highlights done to them, with straight calthan and some calthan mixed with bleaced bone.





Lets do the pants highlighting! grab your adeptus battlegrey and paint around and away from all of the recesses, next get Codex grey and highlight all of the raised kinks in the pants.
With the two greys also do highlights on those areas left black on the sword and the pistol.


pants are codex grey highlighted and sword has line lights.






Lets paint our characters eye, he only has a single eye due to his scars across the face. I will be using blood red as well as a fine detail brush.


Before
After

How about we lighten up those red items of clothing of his, using blood red paint around the recesses, we are not using a wash here.




WERE ALMOST DONE!!!!!

Unfourtuantly i got too carried away in drybrushing the sand on the base that i was unable to take shots during the stages, however the layers of the drybrush are adept battlegrey, iyanden darksun, iyanden mixed with calthan.
Then i have used some PVA and glued a small rock of cork from a cork tile (maybe this could be a good thing to do a tutorial on next...) and glued some static grass on and around it.

HERE ARE THE FINAL PICTURES OF OUR TABLE TOP QUALITY ORC!!!!!





===============================================
This whole tutorial took me one night in total, painting took longer then usual due to taking shoots in between stages.

I really hope that you guys enjoyed this as much as i found it an amazing and creative experience for myself, this is my first how to paint tutorial and i hope you all and found it had some useful information in it
I know there are a lot of pictures but i feel it helps a lot more then trying to explain typing out huge paragraphs about whats going on! Must be why i like picture books instead of novels

Also all feedback is welcome and wanted!!
Any suggestions on what i should possibly do next? if anything

Brother Tobias.

cool totorial, really hadn´t thought using bleached bone as skin basecoat would come so good out at the end...

tho i guess you will get lots of critics of priming black out of a pot, i have to say i do that myself as all my work is done indoors in our livingroom an my wife would skin my behind if i would use spray primer^^

so two thumbs up for this very informative step by step tut.

vik

Cheers Vik, the priming from the pot is only a one off for this model. I normally use spray and spray squads at a time, however it was late last night and easier to just use the pot next to me for them "same" result
Apparently if you use a yelllow as the basecoat for the skin it comes up brighter (as you would imagine) but i prefer my orcs to look dirty and gruggy!!!

Have to say I was thinking "EH?" when you painted the flesh that colour, but it actually looks really good with the washes.

SilverMK2 wrote:Have to say I was thinking "EH?" when you painted the flesh that colour, but it actually looks really good with the washes.

hehe i know, a few people have seen me at the local GW paint some grots based flesh like that... they just look at me like wtf you doing mang?

well, seems like your the 3rd poster after my tutorial Silver

I CHALLENGE YOU!!!!!!!!!!!

at Brother Tobias : hope to see some marines from you soon, will be interesting to see you do them your way.

well as for priming from the pott i still use a color thats called smelly primer, got told thats something nearly forgotten but it works like a charm for me^^

vik

Even though i know you done the conversion one on page one... still a small tip for a beginner ?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Viktor von Domm wrote:at Brother Tobias : hope to see some marines from you soon, will be interesting to see you do them your way.

well as for priming from the pott i still use a color thats called smelly primer, got told thats something nearly forgotten but it works like a charm for me^^

vik

cheers, i hope to get some marines coming out soon, at least ones that im happy with!!!!!

Currently my successor chapter for Blood Angels consists of metallic colours, ill take a quick snap of the assault squad thats WIP and still figuring out the scheme


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Alright here are some snaps i just took of my assault squad i was talking about, as well as a dreadnought with the test scheme, also some of my special characters i have

COMMANDER DANTE!! ( i know he doesn't have his jump pack on yet)



cork tile base i made


My Chaplain / Reclusiarch (like wise with no pack yet)

another cork base




My Dreadnought so far!


rear still has ALOT of work to be done

Emperor's Champion (i just use him as a tact sergeant or a unit upgrade, i just love the model!)


maybe i could even do a power sword tutorial...not that there isn't a million and one of those around though

MEPHISTON LORD OF DEATH!!




Now some assault marines, probably my biggest WIP since its the decider on what colours i start using for the rest of the scheme





more in the background