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Hey guys...

I decided to dabble in making molds and casting using a cheap Alumilite starter kit from Michaels here in the US. It was actually pretty easy.

Check my website for the full rundown of how I did it and some lessons learned. This is very much for the beginner.

http://kriswallminis.blogspot.com/2015/01/a-first-experiment-with-casting.html

The excess flash was easily trimmed and is only there because I poured in a little too much resin!

How did casting an absorbent material (looks like cardboard) fair? Were there any issues? I ask because plasticard is hard to come by around here but I'd like to cast some of my scratchbuilds.

I would imagine you could use any plastic. I doubt it'd have to be specifically plasticard.

A plastic ice cream container would work since that's basically the same stuff. Old CD/DVD case.

 Red_Starrise wrote:
How did casting an absorbent material (looks like cardboard) fair? Were there any issues? I ask because plasticard is hard to come by around here but I'd like to cast some of my scratchbuilds.

It's actually all plastic. The brown stuff is a Plastruct brand diamond plate specifically designed for working with modelling.

Similar to this, although I don't know if this is the exact same stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-HO-Diamond-Plate-PLS91687/dp/B0000WSA3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421716440&sr=8-1&keywords=plastruct+diamond&pebp=1421716447336&peasin=B0000WSA3M

If you have a place that sells remote control cars/airplanes or model trains, they'll likely have a Plastruct spinner with lots of cool options.

And yeah, the white sheet at the bottom is just a sheet of random plastic. You could use literally anything non-porous. The trick is just to get a flat surface and glue your model to it.

I've never tried cardboard but I used cork on all of mine with no issue: http://atticwars40k.blogspot.com/2015/01/how-to-create-your-own-32mm-resin-bases.html

Red_Starrise have you checked out Micro-Mark (http://www.micromark.com/)? Not only do they have fantastic mold/cast materials they also have plastic-card sheets with diamond plates, stones, brick etc...

I like the Micro-Mark mold/casting stuff cuz it's all 1-to-1 by volume so you can just pour some mix-A in a plastic cup then pour mix-B in another cup to the same level - then mix.

Anyway, your bases and re-casts look fantastic Kriswall!

Micro-Mark looks great. Just bookmarked it. Thanks!

 Kriswall wrote:
Micro-Mark looks great. Just bookmarked it. Thanks!

Your damn imperial units are a plague upon the internet... If I ever make an internet shop of any kind, setting location to "US" will automatically and irrevocably convert any lenghts to russian verstas, any areas to dutch gooise morgen, any volumes to biblical hin, any time to microfortnights and all weights to afghan Maan.

Nice shop otherwiese though. But I expect the shipping rates to europe to be astronomical.

I spent most of my formative years in Europe. Despite being American, metric units make more sense to me. I measure everything in mm, cm, m and g, kg, etc.

Well, to say something productive for once, that same technology with some minor modification can be used to make two-part moulds. You just fill the bottom of your lego house with plasticine, stick the stuff you need into it, cast the silicone, let it cure, flip the whole thing, remove the plasticine, cast the silicone from the other part and voila. Plusminus some mould release and vents. I've used that to good effect so far, but I am in dire need of more casting silicone, that stuff's expensive...

 Red_Starrise wrote:
How did casting an absorbent material (looks like cardboard) fair? Were there any issues? I ask because plasticard is hard to come by around here but I'd like to cast some of my scratchbuilds.

I used cardboard when casting a small concrete piece. The part cast fine, although the surface of the cardboard stuck on the concrete and had to be scraped off. Hence, I'd recommend sealing the surface with something to save yourself trouble.

I'm definitely going to try some two part molds soon.

In terms of the cardboard, I've been told that spraying things like this with a clear gloss sealer makes things work much better.

The starter kit from smooth-on contains both, mould release spray and sealing spray. You guys in the US can get them for reasonable prices too...

Guy here has a prime example on how to do it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfXT_Cjpuk

I can say that for the Alumilite kit I got that there was absolutely no need for mold release spray. The resin doesn't stick to it at all. Came right out.

You need the mould release for two part moulds, otherwise your left mould will fuse with you right mould. Also, it prevents the silicone from sticking in crevices and similar and ripping away upon removal of the casting product, thus permanently reducing the detail accuracy of the mould.

Mold making tip.

Always make a spill over mold for any excess silicone you have after your primary is poured. Silicone is so damn expensive, I always try to make a mold for one small part that I would like to have, but don't really need.

Like last weekend, I was pouring molds for some 15mm terrain and made a spare for a 28mm barrel that I had found somewhere.

Same goes when pouring resin. Always have an "excess" mold ready. I now have about a dozen barrels that can be used in terrain making projects. Didn't really need it, but its a nice little bit to have access to.

 Kosake wrote:
The starter kit from smooth-on contains both, mould release spray and sealing spray. You guys in the US can get them for reasonable prices too...

Guy here has a prime example on how to do it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfXT_Cjpuk

I'm a big fan of Micro-Mark anyway but after dealing with smooth-on customer service I'll never use their products again. The 'part B' bottle of my mold mix was bad (entirely solidified) and they basically told me to go screw.

Shotgun wrote:
Mold making tip.

Always make a spill over mold for any excess silicone you have after your primary is poured. Silicone is so damn expensive, I always try to make a mold for one small part that I would like to have, but don't really need.

Like last weekend, I was pouring molds for some 15mm terrain and made a spare for a 28mm barrel that I had found somewhere.

Same goes when pouring resin. Always have an "excess" mold ready. I now have about a dozen barrels that can be used in terrain making projects. Didn't really need it, but its a nice little bit to have access to.

Or, barring that, use a calculator and better instruments when casting. When I do my moulds, I calculate the volume of silicone I need beforehand. Same with the actual casting. Check the volume of your master and whatever vents and sprue you've cut into the mould. I use syringes to aquire precise ammounts of diol and diisocyanates (i use PU plastic). Syringes don't cost that much, 5€ will net you a 100-pack of those.

FANTASTIC!!!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
A tutorial so nice, I had to comment twice!

I ordered some more mold making material, but it might take a bit to show up. I have a couple of ideas on things I want to work on next.

I just bought the alumilite set up to make resin heavy flamers for my BA chapter. This is the first I have ever made anything like this ... pretty sure I am going to f something up ... story of my life. This stuff looked the easiest to use though.

 OIIIIIIO wrote:
I just bought the alumilite set up to make resin heavy flamers for my BA chapter. This is the first I have ever made anything like this ... pretty sure I am going to f something up ... story of my life. This stuff looked the easiest to use though.

Yeah, you probably will… It's all about a little trial and error though, and you'll get the hang of it soon enough. Just be prepared to have to do it a few times before you bum yourself out about it not working like magic and you'll be fine.

As for over pour, knowing how much material you need for a piece is important if you're concerned about waste, but as has been said, having a mould sitting by waiting to be filled helps too. I've seen pieces that have had a bit of resin added from multiple batches over several weeks that have turned out just fine. The resin cures to itself with no problems.

I actually decided to make up a couple of extra base molds to use for over pour situation. I can always use extra bases.

They're pretty small and easy to store.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Dang it! Sorry for making the pic sideways. Silly iPhone.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh, and I also bought some Alumilite Clear Casting resin so that I can make proper Steath Suits for my Tau Empire!

 Kriswall wrote:
Oh, and I also bought some Alumilite Clear Casting resin so that I can make proper Steath Suits for my Tau Empire!

That sounds pretty epic.

You would probably have to cast a dozen of them to justify the cost of mold material, clear resin, release, and the stealth team masters.

 adamsouza wrote:

 Kriswall wrote:
Oh, and I also bought some Alumilite Clear Casting resin so that I can make proper Steath Suits for my Tau Empire!

That sounds pretty epic.

You would probably have to cast a dozen of them to justify the cost of mold material, clear resin, release, and the stealth team masters.

My plan is to use some of this stuff to make a two part mold. Supposedly this is good for making temporary molds as it's reusable.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
If it works out, I'll post pictures.

Instamold melts with heat.
Most clear resins heat up.

On my blog I have some tutorials on how to make 2 part molds, as well as ways to use instant mold.
http://warfrog.blogspot.com/p/completed-projects.html

For the people wanting to make small items like heavy weapons definitely check out the Instant Mold option it will be the most cost effective way to got.
All of the heavy weapons and part of the backpacks in this photo we made with instant mold and a type of green stuff.

Really nice tutorial.

I tried casting with insta mold and didnt have any problems. Smallest part heavy flamer - biggest part dreadnought legs.
If I remember I will post pics

dubovac wrote:
I tried casting with insta mold and didnt have any problems. Smallest part heavy flamer - biggest part dreadnought legs.
If I remember I will post pics

I plan on picking up some extra insta mold this weekend for an attempt to make a two part mold for Tau Empire Stealth Suits. I got some clear resin and I want to try to make some clear "shrouded" stealth suits.

I had great results with it, consider it perfect material for learning curve since it is reusable. Just dont forget to "baby-powder" your molds before you pour resin it will make your life a lot easier.
I bought some resin from ebay (I cant get any in country I live in so I have to go more expensive way, shipping etc) and it is kinda brittle so one lag snapped when I was pulling it out.
Also six sticks will be more then enough for one suit.
P.S. I found out this little tutorial which explains everything and it was very useful for me as a beginner. But I am still trying to find cheap silicon rubber to try that kind of casting.
http://sirskofisworkshop.blogspot.com/2013/12/how-to-make-molds-with-oyumaru-resin.html
http://sirskofisworkshop.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/how-to-make-two-part-silicone-rubber.html