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Made in ca
Dakka Veteran

Thanks! I was worried a bit about bending it because it can start to melt/shrink the wing-claws easily but it managed to work out okay.

the work bench/tools all came from the new mekboy workshop kit:


I just sawed off (or didnt add) the more obviously orky bits but otherwise used the bench whole.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/05 18:11:39

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

more detail time! So I have 2 remaining painted gargoyles to place and I figure that things arnt ALL bad for our embattled marines, so they get a few kills too. Now In my platform I have a 5 man scout squad and also a 5 man marine squad, so I figure I have one "killed" by each. The sniper scout, of course, getting the kill a lot earlier and gooier

soldering irons are great at making heads explode:

and then i mounted them. the blood streak turned out pretty well i have to say.

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

With the corpses done and my knight lift mechanicus area also done its time to get to the last "big" area to add detail in: the shrine.

There are 2 main pieces I want to add. An "archway" built from the new imperialis sanctum kit that I got and built already (not painted yet, dont worry that will be in ze blog... eventually. Painting those things is.. a chore and I dun wanna just yet)


the second is some kind of tablet of comandments or something so there is something behind my marble floor. I might ponder having it light up too but we'll see. First thing is the arch. As it stands my idea was basically something like this:



which would work but I would need to make a "middle". Time for ze plasticard!

after that it was time for more details and to throw in allllll the fancy bits i had left...

I also started working on "flags". I had always considered making this blue/orange combo something more official but i had been lazy up until now. No more! it was time to pick an army and make insignia. First up is having some flags ready to go. I had a bunch from various knight bits but they were weak resin things so I added some green stuff to the back to make it a bit more durable.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/08 18:10:16

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

so with the main archway built its' time to figure out statue orientation.

Here's the problem: the shrine faces, in essence, backwards. Though this makes sense from a design/space usage perspective for a builder it isss.. a bit unforunate. So the question is whether its worth it to try and turn the states to face "forward" even though that isnt correct (they would face out from the shrine)

The natural orientation:

the "face the wall" orientation:

and.. yeah im just going with the natural orientation. you wont see as much detail viewing from the front buuut when this is on a cart i want people to walk around it anyways so that shall be enough. I might add some extra incentive to look over there but making stuff light up but we'll see.

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

So with the "logical but slightly unfortunate for normal viewing" orientation of my statues decided it was time to paint them. Time to experiment with green marble! I started with my statues/pillars that were from the scenery set so I could practice and figure out the technique before I moved onto the archway.

I got a whole bunch of new golden acrylic paints including a better set of greens, so it was nice to use super saturated paints instead of GW's which.. well split a lot. good colors, but man they split. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, just lots of washes and drybrushing to slowly get that look.

I also started painting the pillars. The idea is to match my existing city scheme of tin bitz-dark bronzy framing with a creamy white stone in the middle

but of course, my original whites for that style were GW paints and had split and gone bad so I wanted something more stable. Also that style takes a while for me because here are the steps:

black primer -> tin bitz -> lots of copper/brass/bronze drybrushing and then sponging on the rusty greens/blues/orange.
finally paint the inner areas creamy using many many coats
spend a while going back and forth on mistakes. cleaning up creamy bits that got tin bitz on them and tin bitz areas that got creamy.. forever basically until i give up.

the last step is the most costly, and the "painting the inner areas creamy" also sucks because it takes so many coats to get there the odds of mistakes are high. So i have a new plan:

creamier primer -> paint the inner bits creamy -> coat in blue liquid mask -> do all the normal tin bitz painting -> peel off mask.

the theory being that reduces the "oops my brush slipped" loop that takes the bulk of the time. We'll see how well it works, it did alright for the crane but these are many many small panels.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2019/01/10 22:12:53

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

So with the success of painting the green statues i was confident to at least start painting the archway itself:

then I went back to the statues to try out the liquid masking technique. I dont have any pictures of the results on there but the main initial result i got from my test was to make it very thick. Just 1 layer of liquid mask would often break.

However what i didnt test was.. the full process, just a few squares. So i figured that was enough and I really wanted to get the arch done so i just masked it up and went!

big mistake.

So here's the problem with the mask, its really hard to peel off. Normally its on a convex surface so you can find a corner and gently peel it. But since all these panels are inset.. you kinda have to dig at it to try and get it up. This leads to....

Scratches of doom! and flecks of blue mask everywhere! and yeah generally just a disaster. It didnt work at all. Almost every panel had a great big scratch in it as i tried to get the mask off:

and just.. bleh. Baiscally I spent a bunch of time doing a bunch of layers of mask to avoid touchup work and.. have just as much touchup work to do now anyways. D'oh. Oh well, lesson learned I guess. While I was slowly cleaning all that up I also started painting my flags:

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

So there was painting, and sweat and tears, and lots of cursing and cleaning off bits of liquid mask buuut I finished the arch!

Next is.. yeah I really need something on those flags. I've been putting off my army insignia for a while so time to finally figure it all out. I always had in the back of my mind a how to train your dragon reference (i worked on both the sequel and the upcoming hidden world) and am also a fan of enders game so "dragon army" seemed to fit all around. Still i needed all fancy edging and stuff. Thankfull the internet is a magical place and I found a "book of scrolls" from the 19earlies that had been scanned and is lovely for that kind of fine detail work. A few hours later and I have a not a bad flag:

(the blue will obviously just be my blue in the back but i wanted it for scale)

Made in ca
Dakka Veteran

So I finished the flags for my Dragon Army. I have 3 total flags on my arch, so I figure I do one central one and then one of each of the tail wings on the 2 side flags to match toothless. Any vehicles could also have one of the wing things per "side" to be all nice and matchey. On top of that i made a bunch of shoulder insignias to hopefully make all that nifty too when i eventually get around to putting them on my units.

I also got some clear transfer paper, so all was good.


Wait... takes an inkjet printer? hmm. Suddenly... a problem appeared. Inkjet printing doesn't really EXIST anymore commercially. My works has nice fancy printers, yes, but all laserjet. The one plotter it has my paper was (by like a couple of mm, i think it was cut ever so slightly off) too small for. I did have this printer that I picked up for cheap from our company's version of craigslist butt.. well lets just say it printed in all the colors OTHER than cyan/magenta/yellow. It's theoretically a very nice 8ish year old printer, but yeah, you'd get very lovely purple and green images and thats about it. I was about ready to give up on the thing tbh, so I didnt really want it to be my ONLY option.

But it totally was my only option. I went to about 3 different print shops in my area, none of them had inket printers. Those that had plotters that might theoretically work but weren't willing to try them on my custom decal paper.

Fine, time to work on the printer. Now you guys get a sudden foray into the world of printers, not that you need it but if you ever want to do your own decals suddenly this stuff might be relevent. So the first potential reason why the printer wasnt printing CMY was that the print head is clogged. Basically there is a print head with different ink cartridges attached. At the bottom of each cartridge is a spongy thing which feeds into the sprayer. Spongey thing gets too much ink in it: clog. Of course the spongy things are all attached to the head directly so you cant just take them out and clean them, you have to clean the whole head. So you take out all the ink cartridges, take off the head directly and very very carefully start cleaning it.

I took that image from a very (very) helpful tutorial here:


Now one thing I have that this guy doesnt is a few extra water bottles with super fine tips. The reason is because every time I get one of the fast set acrylic/plastic bonding glues it comes with a couple of those bottles. Normally you put in some glue (not too much, they are so thin that even the <1 mm hole in the tip is enough to evaporate it all away in a few minutes) and go, but I just put in water. The benefit is that i can JET the water right on the sponge thing and get a more effective cleaning thats more targeted and gets less things wet. (if you get the electronc leads wet then everything goes sad and print heads are, apparently, a bajillion dollars to replace/ie might as well get a new printer)

Anyways, so I cleaned the head (there was a lot in the sponge things for C/M and Y so that was encouraging, much more than for the other colors), let it dry, put it all back and... no bueno. STILL no color for those colors. At this point is was REALLY REALLY ready to give up and chuck it out the door. But.. i had no other way to print my army transfers. So I kept digging tutorials and help things on ze internets and found that there is another potentiall clog area: the "purge unit".

Yeah I didnt know what the hell it was either, but apparently when printed excess ink can occur and it has to go SOMEWHERE, thus the "purge" unit. It basically sucks away the excess ink and dumps it into, well, sponges that absorb it. 2 things can happen with said unit:

1. the sponges can get super clogged and full (seriously, its just a sponge at the bottom of the printer, yyou basically just get a pool of ink down there. You'd think they'd at least make it something you can more easily remove and clean)
2. The hoses connecting the suckers to the mechanism can get unplugged. This can happen if the printer gets jiggled (aha.... i did have to lug this thing quite a bit when i bought it..)

Okay great, how do you check all that. Well basically you take the ENTIRE printer apart.


That was my tutorial page. It's.. insane. It was one of those moves where you mess up and the printer is effectively junked, and you only know AFTER you've spent a day doing this. But, well, at this point the printer had only cost me like 50 bucks and it was either that or recycle it, sooo.. might as well learn more about how printers work and take it apart even if i dont get it back together again correctly. So that's what I did. When i finally took out the purge unit, hey look MORE spongey things!

(taken from the tutorial but its basically the same thing, i just wasnt taking pictures while doing this lol)

and even more below it (so those are like the spongey things at the start of the process. then there are the hoses which suck it into some drain sponges that sit on the bottom of the case), and a pool of ink AND a hose was disconnected. Granted, that hose could have also been me as i took this all apart but still, there was a lot to clean up and fix.

So I cleaned it all up, put it all back together, annd.... amazingly, it worked.

Honestly, one of the top 10 moments for me in terms of hackery/experimentation. Mostly because i had NO CLUE what i was doing and so felt EXTRA lost and uncomfortable. There have been a lot of experiments throughout this journey but mostly of them were either: not too time consuming if i got it wrong, something i vaguely knew where i was going with it, or i already had a few extras as backup if it failed. With this tho that was it, i wasnt going to buy a $300 printer just to print a single page of decals. I dint know of any online service to print it for me and everything local wouldnt do it. So to say that it was a relief when it all worked was.. well an understatement of the century.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/19 22:43:30

Made in ca
Eternally-Stimulated Slaanesh Dreadnought

Rzhev, Kronstaat IV

That was a rollercoaster.

The shrine is amazing, your decals look great but I think my favourite new thing is the blood smears from the Gargoyles.

They really sell the fact that the winged-[Expletive Deleted] are coming right at you.

Brilliant, brilliant stuff, you madman.

The Fall of Kronstaat IV - Daemonettes and Renegades and Heretics, Oh My
Война Народная | Voyna Narodnaya | The People's War - 2,854pts painted (updated 18/09/19)
Волшебная Сказка | Volshebnaya Skazka | A Fairy Tale (updated 08/05/19, ep8 - Звезда | Zvezda | The Star)
Kabal of The Violet Heart (updated 18/09/19)

I was killed at Rzhev, in a nameless alley
In Fifth Battalion, on the left flank, in a cruel ambush
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran

Thanks! Yeah im super happy with how the streaks turned out too, it definitely added some dynamism to everything in a unique way. I need to take some pictures of the "flying attack at" gargoyles too, im happy with how they are posed (you'll see soon) whilst remaining sturdy.

anyways sorry for the lack of updates, last couple of days have been.. busy at work, but soon there shall be the conclusion to the flag drama!

Lets just say there were some lessons learned with custom transparent water slide paper...

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2019/01/24 07:52:44

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

With the sheet printed it was time to start transferring!

Easy peasy right? Well.. so one thing I had read in the instructrions was to get some clear acrylic spray and do a couple of coats over the transfer. However i hadn't managed to find that in any of my local crafts stores (seriously, Michaels was out of all krylon sprays when i went, craft store inventory is getting kinda bleh now in the age of amazon) and I didnt want to wait around another couple of days for another amazon box.

So I figured that, since it was probably more a "protective' measure than anything I could do the transfer and then do a couple of coats of super gloss acrylic paint instead and do it all at once. Same thing right?

Nope. Turns out the spray is HUGELY important to the print dye not running when you actually do the transfer. I tried hard to JUST wet the back page and not get the sheet wet at all but even then there is still some smudge:

Better: but still smudgey and also crinkles REALLY fast. you basically get one shot at sliding it on and thats it. otherwise you start smudging.

So i was frustrated and was like "fine, okay fine, ill get the krylon and wait a few days, see what that does"

few days later and:

perfect first try. Lesson here? always follow the instructions.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2019/01/24 22:16:08

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

So, figured out the spray was needed so now can transfer cleanly. Did my first wing flag annddd

Wait, what? Oh right. printing. D'oh. So this is something I should have thought about before, of course, but my nativity with transfers became super clear here. Basically printers cant print white, thus "bright" things are basically just relying on the white of the paper + transparent colors. So there are two ways to fix this

1. white decal transfer paper. You print on white instead of transparent and voila, you can transfer away. Downside is now you have to precisely cut away your transfer otherwise you will have white "edges" to the wings and things. Probably not a good idea for a complicated shape though a square flag would work fine.

2. you paint everything underneath the decal white. This will mean I have to repaint the blue on the edges of the wings, but this is (presumably) a bit easier to do than cutting it away.

I went with 2 and voila works great now:

Now i ended up with a touch of a blue "halo" around everything but honestly it kinda helped pop the wings at least so its not a terrible result.

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

Decals done and time to install. Also to add some more rubble for the broken statue.

I painted up the rubble to settle it in but dont have a picture of that.

Anyhoo with that this tile is basically done.. for now. I still want to add something in that corner, but I need to figure out/utilize some laser cutters first (my plan is to make some "commandments" that light up, so you get some more lights to draw people around the tile to look at the marble area more and make it more a destination to look at. )

Ill post some "final ish for now" pics and then after that there is some work on the other tile to have it synch up a bit better by adding some more rubble and rubble'd bases.

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

Allo again! I took some.. semi final pictures of this tile all together. They are somewhat potato quality but I'll worry about better lit pictures once I get the laser cutting/commandments all done and lit up. Since thats on pause for a while to figure out HOW to laser cut.. yeah best to just give a semi-wrap up picture event now and then do another better one later of both tiles. There is also a bit of work to be done for the other tile to clean it up and have it match this guy a bit better.

I also forgot to put pics of my leaping gargoyles:

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/02/02 00:19:47

Made in se
Regular Dakkanaut

Love this one, where are the fancy bitz on top from?

Made in ca
Dakka Veteran

Yeah! The arch turned out better than I could have thought.

The top piece is from the dark angels dark shroud:


Good luck finding individual bits for it though, I want some bits from the dark talon sinc they are also good "shrine" pieces but alas no luck.

Also sorry about the delay peeps! I was hoping there would be a shortish interlude while my friend got their lasercutter working but its taken a bit more time than expected soooo we're on pause for now until thats all figured out. The main remaining task left is to build some kind of "shrine", in this case glowing 8th edition commandments. After that its time for a last round of decently lit pictures hopefully.

Made in ca
Dakka Veteran

Aloha! I'm back! At least for a bit. I have a bit of a vacation coming up in which i get a few days to just chill, and one of the things Im thinking of doing is finally (Finally!!!) finishing off the game board tiles. You know, the things that started all this and the same things i never quite got around to finishing off. The last "big" picture I have of them is, what, this?

Now the reason I want to finish these off is beccaauuse, well, I want to sell them. Ideally to one of you lot. There is no way I can ship the damn things though so Im hoping anyone interested in is in reasonable driving distance of Los Angeles (within a few hours). The reason why I want to lose them is I'm just not really playing 40k anymore. I still like painting tho, and want to do so when I clear out some of my other projects, but that kinda means clearing out the backlog and getting every scrap of space left. Even the 2x2 cube of space they currently occupy is driving me nuts. Their other use was for DnD and other such miniature games but my board game time has also gone down, and my dnd group is very much in flux and up in the air. Soo, as a result, time to try and give them to someone who will use them.

But, of course, it's me, so i cant leave them unfinished as they are! I still need a river, and nid corruption, that water plant! So that's the plan, get all that done and, in the process, hopefully find someone who wants them. Price wise i'd be happy to get just even close to their equivalent cost in forgeworld realm of battle tiles (which are unpainted). I figure that once they are done they'll be worth that at least.

I also want to finally finish that shrine and work on my ability to actually take pictures of all this stuff, so hopefully there shall me more regular updates once the tiles are done.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/08/23 06:44:22

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

General note: if you are interested in purchasing these tiles PM me! Given that shipping would cost a fortune lets stick with people within driving (~5-6 hours) range of Los Angeles unless you are willing to pay a LOT for shipping.

Hello again! I'm back and ready to do this thing! I finished the first part of my vacation and now its stay-cation time for abouuutttt a week or so, which should be just enough time to finish these things. I figured I would start with the least "completed" tiles first: the two river tiles. Now I currently dont have plans to actually put in the liquid for the river itself, as that would be like 60-80 bucks of fluid to get the full experience, which doesnt really make sense for something I'm planning on selling (at best) or just going back into storage (at worst). Now if there ends up being interested parties and they want the fluid thats a whoooole different ball of wax, but for now there will be no liquid. So first up is this tile:

Now there are a number of things to do here. First up the crashed plane, of course, needs to be painted. But before even that I need to scrape off some of the sand/grit I had added to it. Since doing all this i've definitely learned to tone WAYYY down on how much grit i put on this stuff, as it tends to get everywhere and thus makes the entire paintjob look "dirty", not just the grit part. Ideally what I'd do in the future is paint the model normally, THEN add pre-colored grit and go from there (AKA: use powders). For this tho, just gotta scrape it off and re-primer. Fortunately I had the brainstorm of using paper to just crinkle around it to find the "edge" of the crater and thus only primer where i needed.

Next is the 8" x 8" detail "foundation" thats on there.

Despite being nearly done paint wise (just needs some darkening in the crevices), there's still a problem. Being alongside the river i would expect a bit more detail of it having like pylons or something going into the rivered to feel like it "belongs" there a bit better. Even more crucially though is the fact that in terms of playable surface for warhammer 40k its... really in the way. I did actually play one game with the full table, but we were trying to do the full "LVO frontline gaming" type ITC board setup. And for those tables there is, typically a piece of BIG mongo terrain smack dab in the center which is pushing 12x12 in footprint in size. Because of thise littke block of 8x8 there arnt actually any places on this full set of tiles to PUT such a piece. There are a couple of other big tiles with a big foundation on them but 12x12 looks kind of awkward on them and also makes it quite high which could be bad. So, given all that, I think the best bet is to just take this 8x8 chunk off the tile and make it more generic and usable. It's still painted pretty on the top, so I'm not going to wreck it, just remove it from this tile.

So a lot of huffing and puffing later (the glue HELD) voila: its gone. Of course I gotta clean up those edges so time to add some detail back in there.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2019/09/10 22:33:41

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

So work continues, in all the usual ways really. Strip the plane bits to black, add a undercoat of rust/raw steel colors, add chip paint, add an overcolor thats fairly army neutral. I went with my "industrial blue" color i mixed up a while ago when making those cargo crates. It's a good color because its bright, fairly neutral, and looks good when dirty/chipped/etc.

Despite not doing liquid I did want to at least make the river area look like it had seen a lot of liquid and be somewhat greenish blue.

I also added some orange to my debris trail. I originally started with it just being dark but that looked a bit bleh so I figured an ember type burning debris effect might look nice and pop a bit.

and soon enough we're done with the tile! Next up is the other river.

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

Next up iss.. the water plant tile. which i REALLY dont have a good picture of. So just sort of imagine this with SOME paint on the board/crashed bit?

kinda dropped the ball there.. but yeah. It's not quite that unpainted but the water plant area definitely was so lets work on that first!

its very wierd when empty

scrapey scrapey:

then bluey bluey

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

annddd the second plane bit is done. Huzzah done plane bits:

Next is painting up my water plant and console. I've abandoned the whole battery thing to make the fans spin, as that took waaayy too much power, so now its just about making it purty.

Now I wasnt happy with the grill/walkway color. Previously on my buildings I made it more of a blue/green color to "stand out" more in terms of placement and being purty. But for this that seemed much, but having it all the water green was wierd too. Then I remembered my grey i used for the garage tile walkways and went with that. Much better

I also added a finishing edge of plastic all around in order to clean it all up and unify everything. More lessons from all those walkways

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

Yeah... im a slacker. but in my defense, borderlands 3 came out so i got somewhat sidetracked on updates.

Second fun fact, you know when I was making these tiles I wasnt aware of gorilla glue? Specifically the expanding foam one? It is, BY FAR, the best and easiest way to do all these debris piles. Elmers glue, for the record, is worthless (because it's water soluable so when you do any kind of heavy washing.. which is required.. everything starts to flake off after). Just put down a bunch of gorilla glue down, get it super wet, wait for it to start bubbling, and then coat it in your debris and push down. Holds like a champ.

Sigh. On the one hand learning is good, on the other its frustrating when you go back because as I paint all this I definitely just pull little flecks out of debris with each stroke. I used a whole bottle of superglue on these tiles just to try and de-wiggle bits of crater coming off after i drybrushed all this. There has been a heavy use of a vacumn to constantly suck out loose debris. Still, there was a lot there so it looks great regardless but I wish I had known earlier. Anyhoo, the tile is done.

First up I gorilla'd down all the water plant bits:

the leakage of which I painted to look oozier

crashed plane is also done:

and thus the tile joins the completed stack:

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

Alright, now that the more behind tiles are done (except, as mentioned, for water. But that only comes into play if there is anyone here actually interested in all this) its time to paint some marble!

Now one interesting thing abotu this tile is the statue base.

So, like with the first tile, it is kind of in the way of stuff. The statue itself can easily go on ANY other of the bases, but you CANT put any other buildings on this. So its not ITC/40k friendly. It's also.. VERY far behind and looks kinda crappy if I'm honest. there are these detail reliefs on the side but they got somewhat covered up by the casting process and so probably wont turn out amazingly well now.

Thus it seems like something I could just get.. rid of. Now, I could leave the space open but i dont think that partciular 8 inch square will open up a lot of "big building" opportunities for the ITC because its not surrounded by much more free space. HOWEVER, what i CAN do is replace it with my already painted 8x8 tile which DOES handle small-medium buildings well, thus giving me some re-use there and making that corner still detailed and cool. I can also cut off some of the edge detail on the 8x8 to clean it up even more and get rid of some of its curvy carved lins.

SO, i did all that. Took out the old, put in the new, added debris around the edges. Next up was painting the other 2 marble pieces. Now the full suite of marble paints I had has long ago since died but I can generally make it up in the aggregate with some close enough inks and cream colorss.

The first step, as always, is a sponge blot wash of brown/orange/red/yellow inks, with very washed out colors. The goal is to produce nice fractal like edges where the blue fine lines will eventually go.

then you put in those blue lines. THe goal is to have them all in similar "directions" since marble seems to grow sorta tree like in that all the branches generally point in the same direction.

and thus the tile progresses!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/09/18 20:57:32

Made in us
Dakka Veteran

Once the blue lines are all painted the last step is to blotch BACK on some more cream color in order to tamp down all the colors and make everything a bit more uniform and "deep". Marble, in the end, is fairly subtle, especially at a distance, so this kinda helps make it too interesting.

As always, you wish your lines were tighter and smaller buuut oh well. After the cream blotch pass you just put on some gloss!

Also an example of the gorilla glue technique in action. Just let it bubble then coat in debris.

and thus it becomes done!

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