Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.
Any tips on removing transfers?
I put a few on my IK but am not happy with them and want em off I applied them using standard pva glue over standard GW paints. I've tried scratching them off with my nail but dont want to use a stanley knife now for fear of damaging the paintwork. They seem really glued on.
Any quick n easies?
Dman137 wrote:
goobs is all you guys will ever be
By 1-irt: Still as long as Hissy keeps showing up this is one of the most entertaining threads ever.
Now this is not being sarcastic but a very ligament question, why? Is there actually any reason to? I have never heard of this as the "Standard" Method is with water/ardcoat then hit it with a matt varnish.
Whatever you do WILL damage the underlying paint - your PVA is acting very much like a varnish sealant (and that's a really BAD method, btw).
Warm water slightly soapy, and a good sharp knife to scrape the surface or perhaps some fine sand paper enough to let that get under the decal and start spreading might work without having to strip back the whole model (but you're still likely to work back to bare plastic areas which would want re-priming anyway).
If you feel you may want to adjust decals, allow the gloss to cure thoroughly (24 hours) then do another coat and allow that to cure too. This provides a much harder, protected surface to work on and you're less likely to bork paintwork.
You can then more easily remove decals using microsol and/or microset.
Once the top sealants go on, there's no moving them without stripping though.
Gloss, and usually some form of decal setting solution. These almost always contain acetic acid in one concentration or another - this dissolves the acetate that the decal is printed on slightly, making it softer, more flexible, stickier.
Coats over the top help hide the slight raise on the edge of the decal more. Usually one coat of gloss is enough, before the final flat coat on top.
I have heard of people using Future, applying it to the spot where the decal is going to be placed and then applying the decal while the Future is still wet. Never tried it myself though so if it ends badly don't blame me
I just use the standard sort of process, apply gloss, then apply decal with micro set, once it's positioned use microsol.
In general I despise decals though, no matter how much I try I can't hide the fact it looks like a decal.
There's a million and one tutorials online, it's worth checking out a few of them just to give you ideas.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/11/18 13:54:21
