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Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Hi all

Does anyone have any other methods or ideas for products to properly wash off mould release agent on resin forgeworld models?

According to the chaps at FW a simple wash with mild abrasive cleaner is okay using warm water and a toothbrush. However, after building a few forgeworld models and having paint run off some even after 5 washes before hand I really want something more reliable.

Especially as I am planning to buy some bigger FW peices soon, and really dont want to have to worry about my paint work staying on!

Thanks

 

   
Made in us
Pragmatic Primus Commanding Cult Forces






Southeastern PA, USA

It doesn't sound like mold release agent is your problem. Are you priming your models? And if so, are you using an auto body primer or something similar? Miniature primer doesn't stick very well to resin.

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Well if washing the peices isnt working a last resort woul dbe to seal the peice before priming. I suggest using Testors Dullcote. The spray wont hinder any detail and the finish would allow the primer something to bond to.

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Los Angeles

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/resinmodels3.htm

This is Forge World's tutorial for resin models. From their Priming section:

I'd suggest priming your model with something like a spray Car Body Primer (available from most motor stores). Some model primers don't have the required solvent strength to adhere to resin properly. If the primer comes away then anything you have painted over it comes away too, which would be a bad thing!


It's worth noting again that Games Workshop's primer is modeling primer. It doesn't have the same chemical content as auto body primer.

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Made in us
Pyromaniac Hellhound Pilot






Maryland, USA

I've never had problems using Testors flat black to prime a resin model.

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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Oklahoma City, Ok.

"According to the chaps at FW a simple wash with mild abrasive cleaner is okay using warm water and a toothbrush."

what would that be equal to in the U.S.?

i could swear i heard someone say something about

Mop-n-Glow once...


"But i'm more than just a little curious, how you're planning to go about making your amends, to the dead?" -The Noose-APC

"Little angel go away
Come again some other day
The devil has my ear today
I'll never hear a word you say" Weak and Powerless - APC

 
   
Made in us
Plastictrees



Amongst the Stars, In the Night

Mild abrasive soaps are like Ajax or Comet (here in the states). I've also used concentrated liquid dish washing soap like Palmolive in warm water. Scrub using an old tooth brush first and then a stiff vegetable brush (again, and old one, not the one you, your wife and/or your parents use). I always prime using Krylon or Testors, and as such have never had problems with any of the resin stuff I've painted. Which is another good reason for why not to use GW primer: it sucks on resin. Enjoy!

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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Oklahoma City, Ok.

thanks for the input!

"But i'm more than just a little curious, how you're planning to go about making your amends, to the dead?" -The Noose-APC

"Little angel go away
Come again some other day
The devil has my ear today
I'll never hear a word you say" Weak and Powerless - APC

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Some paints just won't adhere well to resin without primer, no matter how clean it is. Though you can also try Polly-Scale's prep cleaner if release agent is indeed the problem.

But like the other guys said, a decent soap and water cleaning followed by a good rinse is usually all you need. Then spray it with an aggressive primer, autobody stuff is what you want.... just make sure it is ONLY primer and not a primer/surfacer or primer/filler, which can go on really heavy at times.

Grick, you are thinking of Future floor wax (Johnson's Kleer for our UK readers). But that is more used as a sealer or glosscoat after you've painted. It also makes a good ingrediant for mixing semi-transparent paints, and I have been experimenting with it as a carrier for weathering pigments with rubbing alchol for thinner.

-Hans

I hate making signatures:
Mainly because my sense of humor is as bad as my skill at this game. 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Oklahoma City, Ok.

"But that is more used as a sealer or glosscoat after you've painted."

yeah, i'm an idiot!

it's weird. 1 set of Cadians w/ resp. feel "sticky"

the other set, Vets w/ shotguns, Cadian special weapons and Vanquisher turrets all feel "normal".

i'll give a strong dishsoap mix a shot. and try the primer suggested. besides Testors or Krylon, any other

name brands you folks can think of?

"But i'm more than just a little curious, how you're planning to go about making your amends, to the dead?" -The Noose-APC

"Little angel go away
Come again some other day
The devil has my ear today
I'll never hear a word you say" Weak and Powerless - APC

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






I can suggest a few brands, depending on what is available near you. Krylon, Rustoleum, Dupli-color..... they all make a form of automotive primer. You can go to your local autoparts store, or one of the big Box-Mart's. Some states you need to be over 18 to buy spraypaints, so if you are under 18 don't be surprised.

The sticky cadians, I'd try a soap and water wash first and lightly scrub it with a soft toothbrush. Use a dishsoap, and spring for a name brand. I've found they cut grease better than generics. There is a small chance that the resin was mixed or measured poorly and didn't have enough hardener, but that is rare from larger companies that do bigger batches.

Cadians with Respirators huh? Those are a sweet looking set, and my credit card is awfully trempting. But I have too many projects going right now, just about to start my Rough Riders converted from Space Marine Scout Bikes. How is the resin on those Cadians anyways? I've only bought one forgeworld piece, and the resin was kinda light and brittle... like it had too much filler. But I bought it second hand, so I don't know if they are still using the same stuff.

-Hans

I hate making signatures:
Mainly because my sense of humor is as bad as my skill at this game. 
   
Made in us
Plastictrees



Amongst the Stars, In the Night

No, you're experience with FW is the same as mine. If anything, out of all the FW pieces I've bought, all have been equally and consistantly dissapointing in their lack of quality. I too found it the resin light and brittle, which, as you mention, suggests it had too much filler. On top of that, the castings themselves were clearly poorly done, most either having parts of the mold still attached (!!!) and/or severely deformed from such damage as well as generally being severely warped, probably due to either improper clamping and/or not allowing the peices to cure long enough before demolding.

I dunno, while I like to think I've been spoiled by the likes of Verlinden, VLS, Legend, Armorcast, Battlefront and many others, I just think FW has zero quality control. Which is a shame, as their original sculpts are, on the whole, fanfreakingtastic. Lastly, I was told (elsewhere here on dakka) that their resin has much improved of late. Can't qualify that, as after my long series of bad experiences with their product I haven't bought anything else.

OT Zone: A More Wretched Hive of Scum and Villany
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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Oklahoma City, Ok.

"I just think FW has zero quality control. "

as true as that statement is, they have great customer service.

when my first Cadians w/ resp. order arrived, they had pieces that

looked like blobs. that should have never been shipped out, imho.

when i called them, i got everthing replaced, no hassle. they were

very friendly to talk to about it. i've called GW about miscast pieces,

and felt like they had trust issues at the very least. maybe i've been

lucky. everything else i've purchased has been in great shape.

"How is the resin on those Cadians anyways?"

great! i purchased 3 sets of the special weapons w/ resp. they will need

medium cleaning at best. that's what suprised me the most was the lack

of flash and excess resin. i haven't cleaned/painted any of them yet( i didn't

listen to my better judgement, i'm still working on an AC list!! ), but with

what i've played around with, none of it's "brittle" feeling to me. also, other

that the messed up items mentioned above, the Cadian vets w/ shotguns had

a couple of bent shotguns, but nothing major.

"But i'm more than just a little curious, how you're planning to go about making your amends, to the dead?" -The Noose-APC

"Little angel go away
Come again some other day
The devil has my ear today
I'll never hear a word you say" Weak and Powerless - APC

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Yes, I also suffer from the "I know better, but want an Armored Company!" problem. Though I may sell off a couple of the pieces I've already finsihed for it, since I am not really sure how well they will work out in play. I just cant decide if a Basilisk or a Griffon is worth putting on the field. And I sure could use the money for more Leman Russ's.

Then, I can't decide if I want a regular guard army or not. So I just keep buying stuff for both, and the boxes are piling up pretty quick. I really wish they sold those respirator heads on their own though, because they sure would look nice on my Rough Rider conversions.

-Hans


I hate making signatures:
Mainly because my sense of humor is as bad as my skill at this game. 
   
 
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