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BLACKHAND wrote:Hot Damn! I never thought of drawing out of the vent gates, thats genius!

I know right!

Captain Klaw wrote:

BLACKHAND wrote:Hot Damn! I never thought of drawing out of the vent gates, thats genius!

I know right!

I cant wait to try that!! thanks for the tip Unicorn!

I've been squeezing the mould, pushing out some air and then slowly release and let the resin back in

This thread has some great ideas.

Is the OP's method for making shoulder pads mould the best one? It seems GW do it differently because with that method they don't get those little holes which run around the edges.

Also where's the best place to vent from with shoulder pads?

ifStatement wrote:This thread has some great ideas.

Is the OP's method for making shoulder pads mould the best one? It seems GW do it differently because with that method they don't get those little holes which run around the edges.

Also where's the best place to vent from with shoulder pads?

Having tried the OP's method, I am very happy with it. So long as your resin is poured before it gets too viscous, it's a very simple and pretty reliable way of casting many shoulder pads, and complicated moulds are unnecessary.

Sweet. I'll definately be giving this a go.

If anyone in the EU knows of a decent kit to start off with please tell me. The ones linked to in the thread so far are all US based.

I am having some problems with the workability of the pinkysil and easycast, and before I go off and buy another batch, I am just wondering what would be the best option.

For reference, my main issue is with the working times and setting times of each batch, as they are both very finnicky and it is hard to get them set right and with no bubbles in time, especially across multiple moulds.

Additionally, the pnkiysil's softness once cured means that sometimes 2 part moulds become warped or don't fit together once the resin is injected, which as speaks for itself is problematic.

Ck

Are you saying there is an issue with how fast the pinkysil sets during multiple moulds or the easycast?

Both, I would like a little more time to work with each to throroughly mix and distribute properly before they set.

As a rule I only ever make one mold at a time. This allows me to take my time and make sure that it is done right.

As for the mold warping when injecting resin, you should be using piece of heavy cardboard or mdf with rubber bands around the mold for that exact reason. Also make sure that you put keys in the mold so that it lines up properly every time.

I'm not familiar with pinksyl, but most companies offer silicone rubber with different working and curing times. The faster the cure time, the less working time.

Lol, Everything Aerethan said!

Aerethan wrote:As a rule I only ever make one mold at a time. This allows me to take my time and make sure that it is done right.

As for the mold warping when injecting resin, you should be using piece of heavy cardboard or mdf with rubber bands around the mold for that exact reason. Also make sure that you put keys in the mold so that it lines up properly every time.

I'm not familiar with pinksyl, but most companies offer silicone rubber with different working and curing times. The faster the cure time, the less working time.

Aerethan is right.The slower you go, the better/faster it'll be.
Just make sure your using the right silicone.

Got some great results using blackhand's shoulder pad method with materials bought from tomps. I'll post some pics later in the week.

some modified dark eldar weaponry I've tried moulding has been way too much trouble, so I'm just going to go back to v simple moulds, like modified lasguns, autoguns and shotguns for necromunda.

That said, I have tried a product (again from Barnes) called '4PU' which has double the working time of 'Easycast'. A very good product that I recommend to anyone using Easycast, though the longer demould time means you'll have to be a bit more patient.

I have said it before but it bears saying again, in a lot of cases it is cheaper and easier to buy from bitz sites than cast up weapons and the like.

The exceptions are personal sculpts and highly modified or rare weapons that you require in a large amount.

The cost in resin, silicone and more importantly TIME when totaled up will often equal or exceed what you will pay from a bits site.

That said there is nothing like pulling a perfect cast from your own mould

Kaptain Klaw - thanks for the tip on "4PU"!

Does anyone have any experience with using wax coated disposable cups over basic plastic ones for mixing slicone? I've been using cheap plastic ones and the slicon doesn't run out of them very well and I'm always left with a fare amount of waste which refuses to run out.

Sorry ifStatement, I have only ever used plastic measuring cups that you use for medicine, they are small enough that there isn't too much wastage after the pour.

Would be very interesting to hear how the wax cups work out if you do try them.

BLACKHAND wrote:I have said it before but it bears saying again, in a lot of cases it is cheaper and easier to buy from bitz sites than cast up weapons and the like.

The exceptions are personal sculpts and highly modified or rare weapons that you require in a large amount.

The cost in resin, silicone and more importantly TIME when totaled up will often equal or exceed what you will pay from a bits site.

That said there is nothing like pulling a perfect cast from your own mould

Kaptain Klaw - thanks for the tip on "4PU"!

Blackhand is absolutely correct.

I have had limited success trying to cast extra bits of slightly modified plastic weapons, and in all honesty it would be SIGNIFICANTLY easier, quicker and cheaper to buy bits if you need.

The success stories I HAVE had however, and am very pleased with, are the castings of particular bases and shoulder pads.
These are significantly easier and more reliable than 2 part moulds, not to mention cheaper in terms of silicone and resin used.

While I have made a bunch of custom weapons from scratch, it is in fact easier for me to build a whole new weapon than to try and cast one successfully.
Of course, common sense applies here too: If you're wanting a particularly large amount of something or it took far too long to sculpt, casting may be for you.

Would you ever consider making custom moulds for people Blackhand?

Hi Carlos13th, I really wish I had the ime to be able to do that for people, its a dream of mine to become a sculpter and caster full time but with two kids under 5 I have neither the time or the financial freedom to do so.

Hence this article and my attempts to collect the casting knowledge and assistance of as many Dakkites as possible to help people who want to give it a go themselves!

That syringe method seems brilliant. I take it you are pushing air into the pour channel, and sucking air out of the air channel until resin starts to come up? Or are you using the syringe to inject resin as it cures?

I would assume that you do not try to get any resin in the syringe as it would foul it up, or does it not matter with those larger plastic syringes?

I don't know about anyone else but the resin I use generally cracks off the plastic tubs I use to mix it in, I would imagine it would slide out of the syringe once it cures quite easily.

The syringes I use are $.10ea. If I use slower curing resin I can use a single syringe for about 8 molds before the resin starts to cure inside it.

I use it to inject the plastic directly, but I also suck the resin back up a little to clear some air and create a vacuum inside the mold.

$.10 per few casts isn't such a big deal to me considering the parts I can get out of it.

I use 10ml terumo syringes that cost me $10 for 100.

^^^ same here, except I dont get mine for 10 cents tho. I get mine for $1. even so they last a while and if you're quick they clean pretty easy. The resin pops right out and most of the time you get a little peg that looks like it came from the boardgame battleship. I find that the rubber gasket on the plunger part breaks before the syringe gets too bogged up.

I use the child medicine syringe

Just wanted to comment to let US casters know that you can get Smooth-On Oomoo 25 and Smoothcast 300 from http://www.artsupply.com/Smooth-On_c_2290.html at a bit of a discount compared to amazon, smooth-on's terrible site, or even theengineerguy site.

Also, they currently (august 2012) have free shipping over $50. I just ordered some and you can pay with paypal. I'm sure its basic UPS ground shipping or USPS parcel, but it's free...so no complaints. They don't have much else that I was really interested in from a miniature modeling/painting perspective, though.

I'm going to be casting some shoulder pads, a banner and probably some bases for my High Elves, IG, and probably everything else I ever do. If you're interested, pics of the shoulder pad and banner are in my gallery images.

And thanks to all of you guys! All of the tutorials, advice, suggestions, etc... so helpful. I'll try to take pics while I'm trying my first castings and post them up.

The prices are fine, but they don't have 305 or 310.

305 is what I use for two side molds so that I have longer working time to get air out.

Thanks for th info JWmarine, alway sgood to have another source for casting supplies!

BLACKHAND wrote:I have said it before but it bears saying again, in a lot of cases it is cheaper and easier to buy from bitz sites than cast up weapons and the like.

The exceptions are personal sculpts and highly modified or rare weapons that you require in a large amount.

The cost in resin, silicone and more importantly TIME when totaled up will often equal or exceed what you will pay from a bits site.

That said there is nothing like pulling a perfect cast from your own mould

Kaptain Klaw - thanks for the tip on "4PU"!

Responding to the bold part...True, its some times EASIER to go the just buy it route, but then that defeats the purpose of the "fun", "art" and sense of accomplishment you get casting and moulding your own stuff.

As to how much it costs: If you set up several moulds to get ready to pour resin in to, youll see that you can make a wide variety extremely cheaply, less than a penny or so per bit. My local flgs sells their cheapest bits for 5 or so cents. Not to mention the 45 minute drive I have to take to get over there, and back.

Speaking of TIME, this always bugs me, but its a personal thing. I consider my free time like a salaried work position. It doesnt matter how many hours I put into "work", im still going to get "paid" the same. Work being how much time I put into playing with my plastic soldiers (that I love dearly) and paid being zilch! Its not like im calling in to my actual paid job and telling them I cant work today, because I have to cast 400 bolt guns, you know?

But, Let me try to expand on the spirit of what you are saying. I think moulding and casting is another side of the HOBBY of 40k. Its like painting, modelling, playing etc. If its not something you are willing to commit yourself to in the first place, why really go all out and spend big bucks buying the stuff you need just to make one bolt gun? Same goes for modelling, playing etc. If you dont like to make your guys absolutely perfect and awesomely place, then all you need is superglue to glue em to the prepackaged bases etc. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for Posting Basimpo, alway nice to have someone's opinion or advice on casting on the thread.

I do feel you may have missed my point a little, or perhaps taken my post out of context but I still get where you are going from.

I like to think this little corner of Dakka is somewhere that novice casters like myself can come to learn a bit of the craft and sometimes people stumble across thinking that casting might be the best way for them to get the 6 meltaguns they need for a list. My comment was my way of gently encouraging them to try a bitz site first

The point you seem to have missed Basimpo, is not the silicone needed to make the FINAL molds, but all the silicone and resin spent on miscasts and failed mold designs while you learn what you are doing.

No one is going to make a perfect mold their very first time. That $23 set of Oomoo is the cost to TRY making molds. Then you buy another 2 or 3 sets of it while you work out kinks and think up new mold ideas. Then there is all that miscast resin. That stuff doesn't recycle back into liquid resin. So every miscast that can't be salvaged is money gone, with the only gain being another step of trial and error.

Then one day you decide you want more from casting, and take on a two part mold. That right there will be another $50 in rubber while you figure out what does and doesn't work for the exact SINGLE piece you are trying to make.

So, let's take a meltagun. That is a 2 part mold, if you want it done perfect, it's a single gun mold. So you spend $25-50 on rubber for the mold, accounting for failed molds which do happen as you learn that you needed another gate or vent in a spot that you can't easily add after the fact. Then another $25 in resin for the initial learning curve of this ONE ITEM. Then add in $.10 per cast for a syringe(if you are doing it right) assuming that it can't be cleaned(always estimate costs high rather than low), plus 2 plastic cups per mix(which adds up when it's 1 gun cast per syringe and 2 cups). Then you should generally be wearing rubber gloves whenever mixing rubber or resin, and those things don't last long.

Now factor in rubber and resin wasted during mixing because you weren't 100% sure how much to mix up. For resin you learn those numbers fast, especially with syringes. But for molds, it is VERY difficult to accurately predict the amount of rubber you need to mix up. I have a few molds with super thin walls because I didn't mix enough, then I have other molds with super thick walls because I mixed too much. For all that over mixing, it is money lost.

Do you see how the INITIAL cost adds up?

Now, you might think it all worth while IF you have both the money to spend on setup AND the spare time for it, all in the name of saving yourself a 45 minute drive and a few dollars on ebay. Or your might be spiteful against whatever company makes the piece and are recasting it just to stick it to the man(I've done this, not bashing it).

What Blackhand is trying to say, is that all this effort is easily worth it when the piece you are casting is an original that you want more of, as there is no real alternative to self casting other than sculpting a new one every time. And with originals, the cost can be much higher if you only have a single item that you want multiple times on a mold, such as bases. Then you need a master original, a master single mold, X number of PERFECT casts, then another mold with X slots for larger quantity casting. My single side base mold took me 2 molds. 2 part molds can take more.

In short, recasting for originals is pricey, but often mandatory for reproduction. For a piece you can buy premade, it is a waste of money and effort, unless you are pirating for the sake of pirating.

For anyone who's used Smoothcast 300, what is the consistency of it when cure?

I'm still waiting for my casting supplies to make it here, but in the mean time I'm sculpting a few other things. One problem I'm going to have is that I have a bunch of static pose (1 piece body old marines) and metal terminators and elites and whatnot. So, would it be possible to cast flat iconography and then bend it to a shoulderpad or something like that?