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Firstly awesome work dude, loving this scheme the more I see.

As to sand paper to smooth out the paint, I have in my collection, down to 6000 grade, really smooth. Used to polish uPVC. If you go to 600 grade wet and dry paper, you should be fine, however for best results you need to wet it, which I am not sure you want to do on that beauty! I am not sure if it would work well on acrylics, but on cellulose paints for car body work there is a product we call rubbing compound, it's a paste you "polish" on. Takes off very little and is used specifically to smooth out paint. On cars you have to be careful because you can go OTT and go straight through if you are not careful. It maybe worth a try on a test piece. And last suggestion, my wife bought this super-duper nail polishing foam thingy, it's a square foam thing with 4 grades of "polisher", to buff your nails with, I cut the first one up to use as a super fine sander, had to buy her a replacement, only cost a couple of pounds and don't know why but it lasts forever. Probably your best bet for going in around the bodywork on your beautiful paint job. Depends how bothered you are.

Sorry for long winded answer, thought I could help you guys for a change.

Comrade, I like what I see and will say it is all.

Cam, go to my thread and see what is going on with the Hussars now dubbed "NachtJaegers"

Camkierhi wrote:Firstly awesome work dude, loving this scheme the more I see.

As to sand paper to smooth out the paint, I have in my collection, down to 6000 grade, really smooth. Used to polish uPVC. If you go to 600 grade wet and dry paper, you should be fine, however for best results you need to wet it, which I am not sure you want to do on that beauty! I am not sure if it would work well on acrylics, but on cellulose paints for car body work there is a product we call rubbing compound, it's a paste you "polish" on. Takes off very little and is used specifically to smooth out paint. On cars you have to be careful because you can go OTT and go straight through if you are not careful. It maybe worth a try on a test piece. And last suggestion, my wife bought this super-duper nail polishing foam thingy, it's a square foam thing with 4 grades of "polisher", to buff your nails with, I cut the first one up to use as a super fine sander, had to buy her a replacement, only cost a couple of pounds and don't know why but it lasts forever. Probably your best bet for going in around the bodywork on your beautiful paint job. Depends how bothered you are.

Sorry for long winded answer, thought I could help you guys for a change.

No your advice is good. Really the roughness doesn't bother me, it is so barely tangible at any distance greater than the Photos I took I am not worried about it.
Really happy you all like it. I got a lot of work to do. O.o But i am getting a test game in tonight with my buddy, I will take photos.

shasolenzabi wrote:Comrade, I like what I see and will say it is all.

Cam, go to my thread and see what is going on with the Hussars now dubbed "NachtJaegers"

So I thought I saw you ask previously about getting better primer spray coats done, and I know people suggested sanding, but not much on how to prevent it (at least not that I remember reading).

I figure I would give some of the things that I've learned:

Use good primer. GW primer is expensive but worth it. As you go about buying cheaper primer, you get what you pay for.

Mind the weather. If you are having problems with the results it could be a product of the weather. If you end up with a dusty grainy finish, it could be because it's too hot, and the primer is actually drying in the air before reaching the model. If it's to cold, the primer might not work correctly either.

Check the primer itself for the best distance when priming. Different primers have different ideal distances.

And as always, several thin coats are better then one thicker one. I've learned this the hard way several times.

Insacrum wrote:
So I thought I saw you ask previously about getting better primer spray coats done, and I know people suggested sanding, but not much on how to prevent it (at least not that I remember reading).

I figure I would give some of the things that I've learned:

Use good primer. GW primer is expensive but worth it. As you go about buying cheaper primer, you get what you pay for.

Mind the weather. If you are having problems with the results it could be a product of the weather. If you end up with a dusty grainy finish, it could be because it's too hot, and the primer is actually drying in the air before reaching the model. If it's to cold, the primer might not work correctly either.

Check the primer itself for the best distance when priming. Different primers have different ideal distances.

And as always, several thin coats are better then one thicker one. I've learned this the hard way several times.

I do use gw stuff. I bet it was the weather. Being. 105 out doesn't make a good time. I will use my garage for the future primes

SOmetimes if I get a powdery spray I just wait till the model is dry and rinse it off in the sink. Just my two cents there.

Yep, the hotter the weather, the more the paint makes the dry sandy feel, too humid you get "hairs"

some cool temps make it go on smooth

40kFSU wrote:SOmetimes if I get a powdery spray I just wait till the model is dry and rinse it off in the sink. Just my two cents there.

Very nifty to know!

shasolenzabi wrote:Yep, the hotter the weather, the more the paint makes the dry sandy feel, too humid you get "hairs"

some cool temps make it go on smooth

Yeah I am use to priming in snow weather. Thanks for the tips.


Anyways guys, sorry I was gone over the weekend. I had to get all the models built for the local tourny. Second wraith knight is well underway, He got built up to a torso for the games i played.. Oh right those results..

TOURNAMENT RESULTS

This tournament was an Eldar Vs All type deal.
The whole tournament I was chasing the tail of the Eldar player for best Eldar. He had a Tau/Eldar list... out of 1750pts he had 7 models that were Eldar the rest were Tau. So me being a natural all Eldar wanted the title "Best Eldar." I won two out of three games and still was well in the lead for first with Eldar, behind TauDar, because every match I scored all secondaries. However, going into the last round I had a 1 win and 1 lost. TauDar had been undefeated at the time.

To make matters even more difficult my last game was against a small Necron air force.. Well in my second game I guided my wraith guard with their strength 10 ap 2 cannons for some twin linked shots against the hell turkey (aka hell drake for non players). I scored three penetrations and blew that thing out of the sky. Practicing the same method I wasn't able to down the fliers, but they were so messed up they couldn't do anything correctly. Secondly to beat them I played by hugging my foe's troops by the belt. The craft had to fly over, and with little to no targets were largely useless. I pulled out a fantastic win.

With all that said I took first the for the Eldar side! Ctho is a fearsome foe who my local group is coming up with ways to defeat them.

For those who care, I fought in this order

Guard/Sisters
Chaos/Deamons -> Zeetch theme (Denied the witch on twenty horrors and two demon princes about 5 times in a row!!!!!)
Necrons -> Minor air element (2 fliers)

Now that I have won the 35$ I don't know what to buy with it for the Eldar.. I am going to do some more painting for you guys, try to avoid these priming problems and we will see what happens.

Congrat's Panda.

Good work on pulling the wins!

Nice one! congrats!

Well done Panda

you won 35$$??? man... it always falls on the biggest heap, eh?

congratz mate!... and well i am not the guy you should ask what you should get... if i come up with too many good ideas it would be hazardous for me... i could act upon these ideas as well... and my wallet is deflated enough as it is already^^

I think you should buy yourself a brand new FSU tshirt. Youve earned it sir.

I return.. I took a mandatory hobby break into a video game other Dakkanites where playing. Id post pictures, but that is irrelevant.

There are two big tournaments I want to attend, one is October (Feast Of blades) I have made the invitational the last two years, need to do it again. And there is a new one in Los Vegas me and my old man are going to go to. He gambles, I play with plastic men, we drink... good times.

Question is.. Which army should I bring to these events? I only have enough time to paint one.. and I can do my Orks, or I can do my Eldar...

Most of my followers know both armies.

My Eldar did just take first at a local as you all congratz'd me, and thank you much! I used the money to buy more wraith guard. Dr.h I am sorry haven't shipped the stuff out yet, I just haven't built all of them yet.

I think that win was a fluke, but lets see what happens. There are practice games coming up, I plan on getting in at least 10 games to test the Eldar. I already have close to a 100 games with my Orks so I know they work.

So...

What do I take?

No worries dude.

As for your question, I can't really comment game-play-wise, so I'll answer without really giving an answer ( ).
Assuming that it's a serious tournament and that you want to, at least, do well.
You want to consider what armies you are likely to face; Tau and Eldar, being the most recent codices, are quite likely (maybe...possibly ) and whichever of the other's are still strong (shouldn't really be asking me... ). Which of your armies are likely to do well against those?

I've seen threads about how competitive the Eldar are and at least one about how out-of-date the Orks are, so that's something to think about...But...

If you're more comfortable with the Orks and am familiar with your setup, strengths and weaknesses and are equally unfamiliar with the Eldar then that may be the best bet...

However, trial-by-fire would be a good way to see how well your new Eldar army works...

In conclusion; I think I've managed to successfully fill up some space and not really answer your question...

Good Luck

go with your ork... i think this will work out better... like DR H said you probably know them by heart now... and ... they are over all in a better painted shape... and you are way more sure about their scheme...!...

and i think the very unique and original theme of your green hides could maybe even win you something in the comp...patriotism and all...

yup... i rest my case... ^^

I have only one word (not sure It is a word actually)

WAAAAAAAAAAAAGH!

I rest my case your Honor

Painting progress...

Still up in the air about the army.

One is model heavy, the other isn't. Maybe I can get both done, but first GT who knows!

But I am painting! never the less.

Lookin' good. I like the dusty theme.

Finally caught up!

Lookin great!

I say take the Eldar out to the GT. Easier to travel with and the codex is much more potent due to being the latest book. Either way you'll do great I'm sure

ohhhh..... great start with the bone parts!... that is for these quite large spaces no easy feat! well done so far!

Good job Panda.
At first glance, I though you'd glossed the head, so that works well.
Nice bone. It's almost a marble effect going on there.

kestril wrote:Lookin' good. I like the dusty theme.

Its just a wash.. literally... still gotta do all my layering

Red Corsair wrote:Finally caught up!

Lookin great!

I say take the Eldar out to the GT. Easier to travel with and the codex is much more potent due to being the latest book. Either way you'll do great I'm sure

Hmm.... I will try it, they are a small model count as it is. Books have little to do with it in my opinion, sad orks are still 4ed, but hey they are still ok. They lack answers to things like a hell drake, but I can live with that.

Viktor von Domm wrote:ohhhh..... great start with the bone parts!... that is for these quite large spaces no easy feat! well done so far!

Just a wash so far mate, try not to be impressed...Yet...

Dr H wrote:Good job Panda.
At first glance, I though you'd glossed the head, so that works well.
Nice bone. It's almost a marble effect going on there.

Ahh you thought camera flash. I am glad that works, but I am not sure if I like. I am just leaving it as it is for now, and may or may not change it on a later note. I was actually debating on painting like cockpit glass. I will do it to the other one and see which one I like more.

I'm liking the balance between the black and the bone already - good job matey
Can't decide if the groin-plate needs some black on it or not. My head says yes, but on second thoughts, I'm not sure you'll need it when some of the gems are done to break up the larger areas of bone...
really liking the bone hooves/toes.

Some cool stuff here! good work!

finnan wrote:I'm liking the balance between the black and the bone already - good job matey
Can't decide if the groin-plate needs some black on it or not. My head says yes, but on second thoughts, I'm not sure you'll need it when some of the gems are done to break up the larger areas of bone...
really liking the bone hooves/toes.

Danke! I hope to get bone this evening. Perhaps a stripe or something, we will see what happens. I am still torn on how to do my gems haha! Color wise.. I can do a classic blue, not sure. Yeah my Gf suggested I break up the legs a bit and now he has bone toes! Glad you are a linking what is happening.

Brokksamson wrote:Some cool stuff here! good work!

DONT KILL ME! thanks Brokk.

 cormadepanda wrote:
I am still torn on how to do my gems haha! Color wise.. I can do a classic blue, not sure.

I would say to make them similar to your Fire Prism gun gem, give them all a unifying theme.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
But, the one thing that I've noticed about Bleached Bone, is that it tends to run yellow on the color spectrum... if you want to go with a color on the opposite side of the color wheel, hit it up with a purple. Then again, since you're adding washes, that tends to shift it from yellow.

Insacrum wrote:

 cormadepanda wrote:
I am still torn on how to do my gems haha! Color wise.. I can do a classic blue, not sure.

I would say to make them similar to your Fire Prism gun gem, give them all a unifying theme.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
But, the one thing that I've noticed about Bleached Bone, is that it tends to run yellow on the color spectrum... if you want to go with a color on the opposite side of the color wheel, hit it up with a purple. Then again, since you're adding washes, that tends to shift it from yellow.

Good advice here. That idea as well has crossed my mind, and I will see If I can replicated that prism stone effect on a couple sample pieces.

However, what is stopping me from out right going for it is the fact that I have highlighted my blacks with a blue. As such I am wanting that similarity between what I do for the stones and the highlights.

Just a wash so far mate, try not to be impressed...Yet...

hmmm.... when i aply a wash it tends to be a bit blothcy... yours is not... so... well done...