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You've been super productive.

I believe that is a old 3rd ed. whirlwind top?

 Solar_lion wrote:
You've been super productive.

I believe that is a old 3rd ed. whirlwind top?

I thought it was first but, now that you're right, I do agree with you. Sadly, I was only born in 1994. Regardless, it makes a great Knight ML though.

I could have been more productive but, my painting teacher/pal is going through tough times medically, and I am currently going through doctors and a tailor to get ready for several high end interviews. Hopefully, I may have a small assembly update tonight, the flavor appears to be GMS and Battletech, and Xiphon related.

I do apologize even though I don't have to, mind mind seems to think 1-3rd is one edition, even though it's not.

no worries .. I may not even have it right! Regardless everyone still remembers where they started.

Good luck on your interviews

Hey all, I did a thing again.

After a mixed result from using magnets on the Scorpius' guns, I glued them in place as the rules say it fires directly. The back hatch is now magnetized, though it is hard to open and needs GS where I did some damage.



I then decided my newest army would have a Xiphon. I'm sorry I haven't painted anything, assembling is what I am familiar with I have been sick all month. Waiting on an order of red flock for the firing rockets. I don't know why I used hunter killers to represent the missiles on it, I am aware they are tank based and all but, I wanted to do something seemingly less smooth to break up the smooth shape, as all the fliers in the IOM are blocky generally. I also decided to copy the original Predator turret hatch, as I feel the pilot should have a more 40kish way to get in and out of the vehicle. I eventually noticed the plastic cement was melting the thin styrene, and the guns would never match up symmetrically. So I magnetized them, not wanting to waste Git's work. Those las cannons/autocannon barrels are courtesy of him.







Next are some Marines that need some GS, TLC, and paint. along with some ocean shoreline bases. They are for Gitsplitta in return for the vehicles. Solar, I've not forgotten you. I just need another Marine or two to continue.

Half of the Squad so far.


This marine may be my favorite out of the bunch. I am going to GS his helmet to make it look bit more Nordic and less UM but, I am happy thus far. It's also my first attempt at magnetizing. I have always wanted to make a flail, and honestly I wished to emulate a breaching Marine from FW as well.




Another chapter brother. Incase Gits wants a grav marine.



Lastly, the Veteran Sergeant. He needs a new wrist and some GS on his cloak but, I am happy, especially with his leg. All these marines were made from some old bits I had, mixed in with my new Maxmini and Sternguard bits.



They will be accompanied by this Librarian that I showed earlier. (Who I still haven't GS'd. Waiting on a big roll of it from Australia.)


All this leaves now is their transport.

Lastly, to go with my Knight kit I (caved in to get) er, have ordered on store credit that I have accumulated for a few years. I can't really buy minis atm but, I can call on debts people owe me.

Thanks for placing your order with Forge World. This is to confirm receipt of your order.
Order Number: 1299989
Order Date: 06/06/2015 01:24:50
Product Code: 99590299065
Description: DREAD MAW



I blame Paradigm! I doubt this fether will fit on a Knight base but, dangit, I will try! (He's going to be charging into this guy/punching him in the face.)

Edit: I forgot to include the new color scheme. I am thinking if I use this process on the chart (drybrushing side,) and use a runefang wash each time, it will come out as I want it to. Sorry I don't have more to show atm.

Nice magnetizing the cannon extensions! stuff is looking good there.

Yeah Shas, they were crooked in all the pictures until one broke off and I decided to do that. Now they are straight. This isn't an update but, I forgot to post my 6mm reinforcements for the LOER contest and also my latest mold.

So the regiment of troops is for my LOER contest entry. Except for one of the front two troops and the silver not-warthog. One of those two troops will be a diver exploring an ocean world, a mini diorama inside a modcube basically.

Same thing for the second one, except the unpainted not warthog will be inside a lava world modcube.

The mold is self explanatory. It still has minor hand and now crotch bubbles. I will let you look at it. It may be the jewerly resin I am using, or perhaps I ain't forcing enough in. I found out from Dr.H and others that it needs to be tighter. Hope this is tight enough.

Thanks all for the support. Five pages and only one thing painted. I'm a less cool/creative version of Heliodore lol.

I did pick up a copy of "How to Paint Citadel Miniatures." Hopefully that and some lessons from friends will teach me to paint up some Marines and terrain yet. I have my recipes down finally, I guess it is all about the thickness of the paint now and patience. The latter being my biggest downfall.

So yeah. Slow and steady wins the race. Off to bed for a nap for me, sorry this was a lazy bump. It technically should have been in tonights earlier mini-update.

Wonderful spate of building there...

Good luck with the mold. Love seeing updates, whether building or painting. Everybody gets into this hobby for a reason and it's actually quite rare for us builders to enjoy painting anywhere near as much as we like building.

Right so, mould advice:
First off, I'm not sure about how "top pour" moulds work. I've not looked into it yet, so I don't know if there are any special tricks to get those working.

There are a few things that I can see from your experiments that I can comment on.

Starting with your first, one piece mould:
These kinds of moulds are only useful for objects that will have a (relatively large) flat surface that will be hidden in the final application.

Obviously you may have already realised what works and does not. But anything that has detail or "form" visible from all sides is better cast in a two-part mould. You saw this with the figure, but also the railing would be better off in a two-part mould.

Your first two-part mould for the figure:
You seem to be making the mould by pouring the silicone in to half-enclose the figure, and then pouring the second half. You appear to have not done this for the latest mould, and I would encourage you to use plasticine or a clay to make the first half of the mould as it gives you more control over how the surface meets the item.

On that note, make sure to get the plasticine etc. surface as close to 90deg to the side of the item (perpendicular). This will give you a better seal between the two halves of the mould. This is also important at the edges of the mould (where it meets the mould box).

Latest mould:
As I said, you appear to now be using clay or similar to form the first half of the mould.
Registry keys are good to use also. However, you could do a couple to the other side of the figure. Due to the stretchiness of silicone, leaving a corner without any keys could cause problems.

You now appear to be using channels to fill your mould cavity from the bottom (rather that pouring in through the feet)?
However, the channel placement could be improved.
I'm assuming that you are pouring in through the channel at the top of the images (that goes to the head of the figure). This channel should only join up to the items/cavity at the lowest point (the head in this case). You appear to have a channel from the arm of the figure to the pour channel, this won't help remove bubbles as they can only go into the pouring stream of the mould and may lead to bubbles being introduced back into your cast.
All air escape channels should exit though the top of the mould.

Also, where these channel attach to your figure/cavity could be improved.
You are introducing a liquid into your mould and liquids tend to form a flat upper surface that rises at the same rate across that surface.
For air to escape it needs to leave from the highest points of the cavity. In your case, from the tips of the hands and not the side of the arms. This is why you are having trapped bubbles in the hands.

However, channels are something you can fix in a cured mould. You can cut into the surface of the silicone to create new channels.
If you find bubbles being trapped in any part of a mould, add a channel that runs from that point to the top of the mould. Careful not to cut too deep into the silicone as you don't want a hole in the side of the mould (and potentially your hand that is holding the mould at the time...). They don't need to be thick channels, you are only letting air out.

And lastly, while you need to hold the two halves of your mould together firmly, it needs to be evenly across the whole mould, and shouldn't distort the shape of the mould (as this will distort the shape of the cavity and therefore the shape of your casts). You need to use a sheet of plastic/wood/card that won't bend and will spread the pressure out over the whole mould.

Keep at it. Good luck


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also, I forgot to mention; While you can get away with not using a mould release agent, I will suggest using unscented talc to coat the surfaces of your moulds in.

This was told to me by Galorn (the Dakkanaught that I went to for casting advice), and it works as a mould release and a flow aid for the resin and it helps to prevent bubbles from sticking to the surface of the mould. It's also good for you moulds to be stored with a coating of talc.

It only needs to be a light coating. Knock off the excess. I actually use a brush to spread it about.

And make sure to get unscented. The perfumes used may interfere with the resin curing and may damage the silicone.

Good looking squad!

I'm actually amped to see the knight throwing down with that monstorous forgeworld worm, definately watching this thread now

Keen to see this knight choking the worm.

*cue porno music for Nerdy*

Very creative build there.Be careful or you 'll never get to painting!

Kick that worm in the teeth, teeth, teeth, teeth

Bow-Chika wow wow......

@Warboss_Waaazag: Yes. I hate painting, not because it isn't fun or relaxing. I just suck at it, and I find it to be very time consuming. Once I learn consistency and get less afraid of painting my more expensive models, I think I will enjoy it a lot more.

@ Dr.H. Wow! That was more advice than I thought I would get and it kinda re-affirms my suspicions. The problem is, is that while I've done my research the buddy I am doing this for hasn't. That combined with being very hovering over the project has sorta ruined it for me.

That being said, I have started cutting channels. I cut one to the crotch, I have to figure out how to get one to each hand. The issue I've had is that I wanted to fill this miniature from the head since the start, not the base. Furthermore, I feel like the channel placement could have been 100% better.

I also see you noticed the missing keyholes. I can't believe I forgot those. I also feel as if the clay fought me badly this go around. There are so many ways that I could do this better, I learn a lot each time. I absolutely hate this clear jewelry resin, I need to make a post up somewhere on these forums to find a better, less toxic clear resin. This one burns the hands pretty badly and... it's just noxious really. I have no way to describe it. It's as if the room heats up uncomfortably when I mix it. I hope to find a professional resin that is clear for this in the future but, these were just fledgling steps towards getting better.

It's also great for one sided pieces as you noticed. Lastly, as far as air escaping goes, I have used the three shafts. The issue is that the hands act as the top of a cavern that was filled with water or already underwater. Any air that is there gets trapped. You can see this as it either goes up the central shaft to where the base is, or to the left release, or gets trapped in the hands as I said. The right channel is technically useless except for unnecessary pressure, that came with it. I so I understand. I thought it would relieve the issue, instead it compounded it.

What do you think of using the head as the point for all the air to rise to, as it would save the hands? Or would air get trapped in the sloped shoulder?

Also, I apologize if that makes no sense. I'm not the sharpest lightbulb in the box. (<--Intentional.)

@EyeamRei: Thanks! I just hope Gits likes them when they are done. I have to do some Greenstuffing and some painting to make them more Nordic. (Nordy?)

@Drogga: I can't wait either, the only issue will be the basing either coming together or not. It's going to happen regardless though.

@erdfest09: Maybe he shouldn't have a powerfist then...

@Solar_Lion: It's too late, I have so much plastic that I will never paint it all already. I always laughed at people posting about that, thinking I would never have that issue.

What have I become? No, don't answer that.

@Shas, Gits, & Nerd: I'm not sure what is scarier, that you smut-monkies have invaded, or that my plog reads like one of yours now? I guess I'm flattered.

Edit: I didn't ignore your comments, I just felt like I should have replied when I had an update in hand. I however have been focusing on my health, and by accident have found myself sleeping in the day and waking at night. I want to be in the next Para comp but, the worm won't arrive in time. (Took FW five days before they shipped it, and my GF will be state side for another vacation this month and next.)

I feel like I owed you guys the explanation. I've also been working out or trying to, to rebuild my thighs after the hip surgery. Going from the coastal weather by the sea back to working out in the mountains makes me feel like I have asthma when I run. I also went to a dermatologist this week, and today I have the big one, I hope to get cleared for the service again by a private doctor. I'm so motivated. (I hope this was worth sacrificing all my potential disability for.) Feel free to tell me if this is TMI.

So yeah, your support flatters me as always. I have a week or two I think to finish my LOTR entry piece. I hope they extend it but, hold off on the extension announcement, that way I rush like mad and not procrastinate.

Besides, Graven is going to win.

Look, you get to poke in on our plogs, we pop in on yours, the rivet-mania spreads. Live with it!

Your keeping it interesting, so blog what you like!

 shasolenzabi wrote:
Look, you get to poke in on our plogs, we pop in on yours, the rivet-mania spreads. Live with it!

Woah there. Who said it was only poking?

It bad enough you suggested a leather punch you rivet bound cultists. (I originally wrote freak but, it is definately a cult.)

Do you know how maddening it is to make 1000 rivets by hand- oh wait. You do.

Never mind, I will just learn to live and appreciate this newly found medical condition.

In other news, I expect a drop in hobby money in the near future. Women and moving out are both expensive.

Oh feth it. I'm just posting because the wait for this Shai Hulud is killing me/at the Doctor's in the waiting room. P.S: Did you know there was a Dune movie? I didn't! (I hope it is good. Just finished the book.)

Dune the movie, it has some big stars in it. You must judge the movie itself.

1,000 rivets? thou hast made it to the League initiate level! You may leave the supplicant robes for the next new folks, and may adorn the Initiate's riveted robe and belt!

 Stormwall wrote:
@ Dr.H. Wow! That was more advice than I thought I would get and it kinda re-affirms my suspicions. The problem is, is that while I've done my research the buddy I am doing this for hasn't. That combined with being very hovering over the project has sorta ruined it for me.

Yeah I tend to get carried away when I start explaining something.
I'm afraid I can't help with the back-seat caster. Good luck.

That being said, I have started cutting channels. I cut one to the crotch, I have to figure out how to get one to each hand. The issue I've had is that I wanted to fill this miniature from the head since the start, not the base. Furthermore, I feel like the channel placement could have been 100% better.

I'm sure I've read it somewhere that it's best to have the feet end of a model at the top/exit of a mould. I think it's part to do with having as large a hole to pour into as possible, and that the rough finish you get where the resin levels off at the opening (if it's not quite flat/level and bubbles will accumulate there) is easily removed or hidden by being on the bottom of the feet etc.

I also see you noticed the missing keyholes. I can't believe I forgot those. I also feel as if the clay fought me badly this go around. There are so many ways that I could do this better, I learn a lot each time.

I've forgotten to add keys to the first half of moulds before and then had to cut into that first half to make the keys when I poured the second half. It's so easily done that I made myself a check list for moulding and follow that step-by-step each time.

Learning by doing is the best learning.

I absolutely hate this clear jewelry resin, I need to make a post up somewhere on these forums to find a better, less toxic clear resin. This one burns the hands pretty badly and... it's just noxious really. I have no way to describe it. It's as if the room heats up uncomfortably when I mix it. I hope to find a professional resin that is clear for this in the future but, these were just fledgling steps towards getting better.

I don't really have any experience with other resins than what I've used, so I'm no help with what would be good. Just have a look about and see what's available.

I use nitrile gloves when I'm using the resin I have. Mainly because casting is a messy business and it was drying out my skin (not to mention having to pick pieces of plastic out of the various crevices of my hands not being fun). I'm a trained chemistry researcher and even I make a mess when casting.

Make sure you have plenty of ventilation going on if your resin is quite fume-y.

It's also great for one sided pieces as you noticed. Lastly, as far as air escaping goes, I have used the three shafts. The issue is that the hands act as the top of a cavern that was filled with water or already underwater. Any air that is there gets trapped. You can see this as it either goes up the central shaft to where the base is, or to the left release, or gets trapped in the hands as I said. The right channel is technically useless except for unnecessary pressure, that came with it. I so I understand. I thought it would relieve the issue, instead it compounded it.

What do you think of using the head as the point for all the air to rise to, as it would save the hands? Or would air get trapped in the sloped shoulder?

Also, I apologize if that makes no sense. I'm not the sharpest lightbulb in the box. (<--Intentional.)

What I would do with the mould you have there is just cut a channel from the top of the hand upwards and either join it to the leg (higher up than the hand comes to), or all the way to the top of the mould. As you put it, make a hole in the top of the cavern so that the air can escape and the "water" can rise all the way to the top.

I would keep the model head down and let the air escape from the feet.

Also, to save on silicone usage, you can cut up an "old" mould into tiny pieces and add that to the new silicone you are mixing for the new mould. Silicone sticks to nothing... except silicone. It'll bulk up the volume and make your silicone go further.
Be aware though, that doing this is time consuming, will blunt whatever blade you use for it, and will end up with many tiny pieces of silicone all over your house.

 shasolenzabi wrote:
Dune the movie, it has some big stars in it. You must judge the movie itself.

1,000 rivets? thou hast made it to the League initiate level! You may leave the supplicant robes for the next new folks, and may adorn the Initiate's riveted robe and belt!

Lol. I will post a picture later of the rivet jar.

And Dr.H. Thank you more for your input. I will try that silicone cutting trick for sure soon.

Not much is going on I admit, lately I have just been playing with my worm. Just a small update to blow the dust off before I go on a hiatus with the woman. Waiting on the funds to get the Knight Titan (gotta sink this CH base into the normal knight titan base sink Secret Weapon doesn't make a blank one yet, grumble.) The Librarian is for scale. I felt he wasn't tall enough for a Knight so I improvised and added height that I will just cover in a giant splash, as if he is bursting the water.





Moving on, this is a little helicopter (jhawk,) from my battleship kit. It kept breaking and a part went down the airvent, so it is now being repaired by the 6mm ground crew and unloaded by the security forces. It was the last thing I got to working on with the LOER entry, sadly.




Oh and rivets. I feel as if I have made thousands but, there are probably only 900 or so in there, coupled with all the pellets I have harvested... I just punch away at it when commercials or loading screens pop up, eventually I will fill a mason jar full of them and never worry about it again.


Wish I had more but, I've been feeling burnt out on my entry. It has a nice martian theme to it but, I've not been feeling it lately as far as building up the hills on it. I hate constantly entering contests and then not finishing it due to the fact I'm slow as hell.

All this being said though, it does spur me to create good terrain that I will eventually finish and display in a glass cabinet.

Hope you all have a good Fourth of July, as I am unsure if I will be posting before then.

Edit: I found this on the B&C. Anyone know where to buy it?

Nice paint! Bad-assery in that Marine vs worm diorama!

Lovely rivets! in the "Nations States" the currency of the Khadrovian Union is the "Rivet"

That's pretty neat actually. I will have to learn more about that.

Also, the Libby unfortunately has to stand watch till re-enforcements arrive. Brother Castamere was reassigned to a small diorama I haven't shown yet. :p

Now with the vacation lull the waiting on (more funds,) the Cube, Karists, and the Titanforge Marines begins.

I swore to never be a kickstarter guy either lol!

Hey guys, I've removed the pictures of the recast of the mech. While it was supposed to be a one off for a friend and for practice, I feel it is wrong since the official company is releasing an actual version of this in the future now. (They did one years ago, and said for you to try your own hand at making it. Now with an official model on the way, it feels morally wrong.)

With them releasing an official version I am going to stop making them completely, and the few I did will go to a friend of mine, and in the future I am just focus on casting my own stuff. (Thinking of making some miniatures out of greenstuff and some custom helmets/bits for my Marines.)

This blog has been such a lovely past-time. I have a decent sized force thanks to Gits and what I own. I have decided to rekindle my efforts, and I am considering condensing all my stuff into one big blog (with a witty title no less.) Also, I would really like to focus on terrain/dioramas and scratch building in the future, hence the need for a change. I feel like this blog is a mess for some reason.

What are your thoughts? (Also, I have been working on a lot of stuff recently but, I am about to move into my first house, so that has gotten in the way. I hope to have some new stuff done soon. I have two little projects to finish, then I want to get all my marine swaps done. Solar PM what you want, I think you were interested in the new scheme. Gits, I have been working on your request too.)

Anyways, only the best to you all and I hope you have a nice weekend.

Would be good to see more of you bud.

About all I do these days is model exactly that. Terrain, dios, and a few pieces for friends, enjoy it so much more than worrying about army rules that change every 2 minutes.

Would be interesting to see you casting up your own stuff too, again something I enjoy.

Well I can put up some progress pictures of all my work, if you're interested.

It's not as far along as I would like, as I have hobby ADD. I am currently making a weird land-tank surprise for someone, working on a gunship that is the in-between of a Stormraven and Thunderhawk. (Going nuts on deciding if I am going to pull an STC and fill the inside with card too like he is doing with his Stormbird,) and I have also renovated my TFC build.

I also have some little dioramas scattered about and I got a rhino cut off the sprue and assembled this weekend.

Simply put, YES, these are all exactly what we want to see.