Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I don't know - I always have a basing plan before I start an army. I confess, I've gone to almost entirely resin bases at this point.

I like to consider the basing them befor ei even kick off, what do I want to do differently this time?

That sad, I'm intrigued by the clear acrylic bases, i've never seen them before. If anyone can post a link I'd like to see more.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2mm-Clear-Acrylic-Bases-Circle-Square-Hexagon-War-Games-Role-Playing-Warhammer-/181534835677?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&var=&hash=item2a4451c3dd

Interesting. Cheap too.

I'm with you, goblinzz. I had never thought of using clear plastic bases!? Having a 'why didn't I think of that' moment lol. I'm definitely a proponent of having a nice, finished base, but going with clear plastic makes a lot of sense, too...

My only question is how do you attach the models,as surely super glue would frost the base.

Veerrryyy carefully.

To start off it has to be done:
Possible reason for "no base."
I needed ANY excuse to drop us that meme.

In all seriousness it just plain makes playing hard with the models able to stand well, never mind measuring movement distance.
Yeah, chalk up to model not even close to be started until that base is attached.

I have been basing my new Deldar army on cork "rock" bases, mostly because they are simple, it adds a bit of dimension to the model, and I figure you can find collections of rocks on just about any battlefield so it will never look TOO off. Not a clue what I am gonna do with my Nids or Crons though... dont have the funds for extra special resin bases for all that.

Because I don't like having sandy grass in an urban environment or vice versa. I prefer the abstract black base.
Basing's easy, I just don't like doing it.
I also don't like bases that are larger and more elaborate than the model.
But that's a personal thing for me.

 TheSilo wrote:

 Yonan wrote:
The base not matching the terrain you play on can be jarring for some people. Clear acrylic bases are getting more traction for this reason, especially if you know you'll be playing on nice terrain.

having bases that don't match the terrain looks bad to me. A piece of street terrain on a grassy field or a sandy base on a space station.
...
but on most gaming tables that deathworld grass is going to look ridiculous.

This is my problem. I'm a bit obsessed with details, and the incompatibility between a base and the terrain is a serious issue for me. It's one of several reasons that I still haven't gotten into that table project I've been thinking of for months, but with clear bases I might go ahead with it.

I'd thought about clear bases, but I assumed they wouldn't look as good as they do. I will definitely be going with them. The trouble is things like bike bases. They probably exist, but if they don't I could probably cast some in clear resin.

 rakswann wrote:
I kind of like this effect.

http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/epages/950003459.mobile/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950003459/Categories/Hobby_Pages/Pulp_Alley_28mm_Pulp_Adventure_Gaming/Rebasing_figures_onto_clear_bases&Locale=en_GB

You have no idea how important this is to me. Not only was I worried about slotta bases, but Hormagaunts have been a massive pain ever since I started wargaming. I never considered that I could rebase them, tearing off that stupid slot and pinning them to the base. Thanks!



These are a bloody nightmare. For all you non-Tyranid players, Hormagaunts are attached to their slotta strip by the tiniest, most insignificant volume of plastic. They come off with a slight breeze and are just cruel to put back together. Also, Hormagaunts annoy me - what is that pose? It's supposed to be "leaping", but they're just running on the tops of their hooves! Both of these are reasons that I've been seriously considering ripping all of their arms off and putting them on Termagant bodies.

I don't base because I'm actually all about that treble.

How do you prevent the clear bases from misting with glue smudges? It happens every time I have a clear piece of plastic on a model, it's why I finally started painting over plane canopies. Otherwise they get fogged up.

Also, I'd MUCH rather sell a conversion unpainted and unbased. There's also that.

 TheSilo wrote:
How do you prevent the clear bases from misting with glue smudges? It happens every time I have a clear piece of plastic on a model, it's why I finally started painting over plane canopies. Otherwise they get fogged up.

Don't smudge the glue!

I'm lazy, and I paint my bases.

 TheSilo wrote:
How do you prevent the clear bases from misting with glue smudges? It happens every time I have a clear piece of plastic on a model, it's why I finally started painting over plane canopies. Otherwise they get fogged up.

There are some adhesives that don't fog. I don't recall the site, but I've read elsewhere about such. As for model airplane canopies, you can buy the special glue from the hobby shop that doesn't fog, or you can use PVA/Elmers. It's not as strong a bond as superglue or plastic glue, but with a scale model, it's not going to be handled much.

Epoxy is probably the strongest thing that won't cause frosting. Rough/scratch up the area where you plan to glue to get a better bond.

 goblinzz wrote:
I really don't understand this, I base all my models. In fact it's often the first thing I do now as it helps me see how the rest of the model looks.

But I see SO MANY MODELS that are unbased, people who have a relatively good grasp of basic painting techniques, but for whom gluing on sand and then painting and drybrushing it appears to be a mystery.

It's so simple, but it seems to be huge and intimidating challenge for new painters. Any ideas why?

Perhaps we could start a thread cataloging peoples different basing methods with a brief overview of how it was done to encourage others to start?

It keeps the model appearance neutral on any board its placed on.

Bishop F Gantry wrote:

 goblinzz wrote:
I really don't understand this, I base all my models. In fact it's often the first thing I do now as it helps me see how the rest of the model looks.

But I see SO MANY MODELS that are unbased, people who have a relatively good grasp of basic painting techniques, but for whom gluing on sand and then painting and drybrushing it appears to be a mystery.

It's so simple, but it seems to be huge and intimidating challenge for new painters. Any ideas why?

Perhaps we could start a thread cataloging peoples different basing methods with a brief overview of how it was done to encourage others to start?

It keeps the model appearance neutral on any board its placed on.

Not really. if you leave the base black or any single colour, it just looks out of place on every table. So there's consistency in that, at least.

Honestly, I have a lot of fun thinking up new basing themes for armies.. For my Skorne I did a cracked desert theme with the Agrellan Earth technical paint. For Space Wolves I did icy glaciers/rocks with corkboard and snow flock. For my new High Elves I bought some different blends of turf and static grass to get a realistic looking field/meadow. It's almost like a reward for me to do the bases after spending a week painting up an infantry unit.

I think a unified basing theme with a bit of effort put into it will really add to the overall look of an army on the table.

I hate basing. Hate it.

Army Painter Battlefield has really helped though, and it looks pretty decent. I glue it on when I've finished painting and when the PVA has set, I put a coat of Agrax Earthshade over it. Quick dry brush with (can't recall) and a bit fo static grass. DONE.

However, these clear acrylic bases seem right up my street. I think I'll adopt this for my Infinity project.

 Pyeatt wrote:
I don't base because I'm actually all about that treble.

I was on a site visit with work last week, and the guy driving me around had on a pop music radio station. That song must have been played at least once an hour and twice at lunch...

I don't always have a basing plan before I start. if the army is just for gaming I slap on mix of sand and small rocks I have then prime. I then pain the mini, then paint the base and then add the static grass ( I have different tubs with different colours), snow, barbed wire etc.

I also found that when putting the grass on, using pva makes it flat, but a small drop of superglue pulls the grass upwards then it dries making a clumpy effect

Simple method I have found for my minis is to use the textured paint. Sand with a sepia wash for my Templars and mud for my DA/GK. Makes me wish I would had started doing my basing earlier! So many bases to do...

 TankerNick86 wrote:
I base all my models. A friend who has been painting far longer than I have told me it was an easy way to dramatically improve the looks of your model. I do base last, but I do not consider the model finished until the base is done. Plus it can add a whole new level of uniqueness to a model.

This x 2

I use the Army painter grey ash so as not to dominate the models, black painted side to base.

But the clear acrylics looked very good. Not sure I can face rebasing 200 boyz :-(

The importance is not wether you base the model before you paint it or not. Choosing the right colors and theme that will enhance your color palette chosen for the army is crucial.

I good base will enhance your army, make the models pop and thus in most cases will be less distracting on a game board.

If unsure what colors will look good with the army palette, use a grey base tone and throw in a splash (wether it is a basecoat or a wash (shade) or a tint) of your army's primary color. That connects that base with the model standing on top of it without blending them too close. (unless you have a grey primary color) then you'll use another color and throw in some greys.

A blank base has so much opportunity. Why not take it?

@goblinzz. Yeah man! Your totally right.

So make sure to do your bases ya'll. Like the Japanese game makers would say "all your bases are belonging to us.".

@GrimDork: hahaha insult the playground... I could see why you love the acrylics thou. Not that it would fit with my army.. I just make sure to match my boards with my bases. :p

monders wrote:
However, these clear acrylic bases seem right up my street. I think I'll adopt this for my Infinity project.

I like the clear bases on Infinity models, my only complaint (which isn't the fault of the base) is that they don't look right with any of the models which are posing on CB's infamous magical space rocks (looking at you uberfallkommando and morats).

To be honest, I'm really struggling to find a nice basing theme for my bakunin, which is why they aren't based at the moment...
or painted...
or fully assembled...

(well that's my excuse anyway )