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Yep some are hit or miss for sure.

You can always transfer but i always feel like iv wasted soo much transfering when its stuck to the sides.

which are wasted anyway when it dries to the sides :/

I'll be getting the Zandri Dust as that's the only paint that I've never been able to find a suitable replacement for. I've tried every alternative but they never end up the same, which is annoying as all hell, especially when the Zandri Dust paint is absurdly thick and needs a stupid amount of airbrush thinner and then takes ages to get cleaned out of my airbrush gun!

 Talys wrote:
I have every Vallejo airbrush paint and yet am super excited to see these. If the work unthinned on Iwata BH/CH size nozzles, they will replace 75% if my airbrush paint, even though I love Vallejo Air.

Why?

Because you would buy a partly decomposed gerbil corpse if it was in a box with GW stamped on the cover.

There we go, answered that one for you

Seriously though, interesting point about quantities. That might well catch out some air-brushing newbies who get a couple of squads in and then realise they are a couple of pots short.

Good point by Talys: I may grab a couple and see how well the paints match.

It really is what you are used to.
GW paint for me is easy because I used so much of it.

I switched to artist paints Liquidex and have never been disappointed but mixes up ok for airgun.

I'm slightly surprised that they launched these so shortly after the FW line.

 Pacific wrote:

 Talys wrote:
I have every Vallejo airbrush paint and yet am super excited to see these. If the work unthinned on Iwata BH/CH size nozzles, they will replace 75% if my airbrush paint, even though I love Vallejo Air.

Why?

Because you would buy a partly decomposed gerbil corpse if it was in a box with GW stamped on the cover.

There we go, answered that one for you

Seriously though, interesting point about quantities. That might well catch out some air-brushing newbies who get a couple of squads in and then realise they are a couple of pots short.

Why not quote the next paragraph, too... Vallejo paints not having color matches between Model Air and Model color, even though they both have a bazillion colors is bizarre and extremely user-unfriendly. >.<

Yes, I'm capapble of mixing in some color to get it "close enough" for a lot of models, but no, I can't do that on the side of a vehicle. More to the point, there is not a single good reason that I've ever heard for them to not have color-matched in the hairy brush version to all of their airbrush paints.


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 Talizvar wrote:
Good point by Talys: I may grab a couple and see how well the paints match.

It really is what you are used to.
GW paint for me is easy because I used so much of it.

I switched to artist paints Liquidex and have never been disappointed but mixes up ok for airgun.

Both the liquitex medium and the Vallejo airbrush thinner work great for mixing GW paint pots into stuff you can shoot through an airbrush, IMO. The biggest problem for me is drying time. It dries more quickly in the airbrush, and is harder to clean out. Not an issue on large nozzles like 0.50, 0.35; but sometimes an issue in 0.30, and a waste of time in in 0.20.


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 Buttery Commissar wrote:
I'm slightly surprised that they launched these so shortly after the FW line.

Well, these mirror the GW paint line, whereas the FW ones are strange though cool colors. I don't believe the FW ones have hairy brush matched paints, though...

I have been using vallejo as well but certain colours seem hard to match and some of them have a shiny finish that means more messing about, that last part could well be user error ! but I am looking forward to having the GW colours already to go straight into my airbrush without messing about thinning them down.





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Its a shame they are sticking to the same bottles though.

 Rayvon wrote:


I have been using vallejo as well but certain colours seem hard to match and some of them have a shiny finish that means more messing about, that last part could well be user error ! but I am looking forward to having the GW colours already to go straight into my airbrush without messing about thinning them down.


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Its a shame they are sticking to the same bottles though.

The knowledge half of my brain wants to say the shiny finish is because you didn't shake it enough. But the experience half of my brain will tell you that it's happened to me, too, after shaking the airbrush paint for damn near an eternity (suspecting separation because it's sat on the shelf a while). The third half, the creative half, doesn't want to worry about weird s*** happening when airbrushing fine details at the end of a 40 hour project.

It's also worth noting that Vallejo paints (all of them) separate like crazy compared to GW and P3.

If my local store gets them in, and if the price isn't too bad I'll pick up a couple. I don't have an airbrush, but their thinner consistency should make them good for highlights right out of the pot (I hope).

I've seen £3.80 on FB.

Seems about right.

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
I'm slightly surprised that they launched these so shortly after the FW line.

The FW line is specific to the Horus Heresy, though.

Of course, the real question is, are they the same paint formula as FW's airbrush paints, or different? I somehow suspect the FW paints may be of a better quality, since they make the stuff they want.

 Azreal13 wrote:
I've seen £3.80 on FB.

Seems about right.

That will put them close to the $6 to $6.25 US each

 Tannhauser42 wrote:

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
I'm slightly surprised that they launched these so shortly after the FW line.

The FW line is specific to the Horus Heresy, though.

Of course, the real question is, are they the same paint formula as FW's airbrush paints, or different? I somehow suspect the FW paints may be of a better quality, since they make the stuff they want.

The FW line also includes colors for the Death Korps.

Basically, what I was told by someone from FW is that they had colors made to match the various mixes that their painters have used.

 Talys wrote:

I HATE how many colors have no match between model color and model air (like, 75% of the colors). Like a particular shade of red or blue? Too bad the paintbrush version is just a little darker and has a different satin to the finish. There are a couple where paints have the same names, but the colors are different!!Game air/color is much better, but some some of those (like moon yellow) have insanely bad coverage. The other issue is that nobody local stocks game air, and I must sometimes wait 3+ weeks for it.

Sorry I don't understand this, why don't you just use the same model air paint you use for the airbrush for your regular brush? I use model air for both airbrush and regular brush.

OT GW paints were the only thing I bought regularly from them until I found out about Vallejo airbrush ready paints (about the same time I got my first airbrush), I would've given them a try if 1, they were dropper bottles and 2, If GW didn't release the abortion knon as AoS (I refuse to give them any of my business for the time being).

I think people are missing the main problem with these. It's not the lack of droppers that you will end up using a pipette with an airbrush (which is annoying) it's that GW paints slowly dry out over time... what the hell is the point in buying a paint that has been thinned for airbrushing when in 2 months it's changed consistency and become too thick?

Either way, they left out Rakarth Flesh which is the only colour I would have been interested in.

overtyrant wrote:

 Talys wrote:

I HATE how many colors have no match between model color and model air (like, 75% of the colors). Like a particular shade of red or blue? Too bad the paintbrush version is just a little darker and has a different satin to the finish. There are a couple where paints have the same names, but the colors are different!!Game air/color is much better, but some some of those (like moon yellow) have insanely bad coverage. The other issue is that nobody local stocks game air, and I must sometimes wait 3+ weeks for it.

Sorry I don't understand this, why don't you just use the same model air paint you use for the airbrush for your regular brush? I use model air for both airbrush and regular brush.

OT GW paints were the only thing I bought regularly from them until I found out about Vallejo airbrush ready paints (about the same time I got my first airbrush), I would've given them a try if 1, they were dropper bottles and 2, If GW didn't release the abortion knon as AoS (I refuse to give them any of my business for the time being).

It's easy to thin a paint, but almost impossible to thicken one. Airbrush paint has much too much flow to work well on a paintbrush (presuming that having it run is a bad thing). If I were permitted only one, I would give up the airbrush paint, and just thin regular paint myself.

But really, it makes no sense that there is a model air and model color, both with tons of paints or the same approximate colors, just... a little different.

Wha?

I use airbrush paints with a brush all the time, work fine.

yup, Vallejo Model Air Metal paints work just fine with my hairy sticks...

i look forward to getting my hands on the FW airbrush paints for my hairy sticks, since the Legion colors are so specific, but these new Citadel ones will be a no-go...
i really, really don't like the pots that Citadel is using, and will stick to the P3 style pots that i love...

cheers
jah

 Talys wrote:
It's easy to thin a paint, but almost impossible to thicken one. Airbrush paint has much too much flow to work well on a paintbrush (presuming that having it run is a bad thing). If I were permitted only one, I would give up the airbrush paint, and just thin regular paint myself.

But really, it makes no sense that there is a model air and model color, both with tons of paints or the same approximate colors, just... a little different.

I've never had any problem hairy brush painting any of the model air range, never had one that I thought was too thin or had too much flow for hairy brush painting. In fact most the time I find myself thinning them even further. I don't even have a regular black or white at the moment because I've been getting on just fine using the model air black and white for hairy brush painting (since my ceramite white dried out).

The only thing I don't love about hairy brush painting with the model air range is that they tend to be on the glossy side of satin. It's fine for airbrushing because when you airbrush it tends to come out more matte than when you hairy brush paint. But it's not a huge problem and usually gets fixed when I use a wash/filter/varnish.

For the most part I'd rather have subtly different colours in the model air range anyway, it just gives me more choice since I can easily airbrush non-airbrush paints if I need anyway, the only one I might have liked was Rakarth Flesh because that's the main colour of my entire Tyranid army and airbrushing base paints can sometimes be a bit annoying.


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 jah-joshua wrote:
yup, Vallejo Model Air Metal paints work just fine with my hairy sticks...

i look forward to getting my hands on the FW airbrush paints for my hairy sticks, since the Legion colors are so specific, but these new Citadel ones will be a no-go...
i really, really don't like the pots that Citadel is using, and will stick to the P3 style pots that i love...

cheers
jah

I think you can buy the P3 style pots pretty cheap if you ever wanted to swap them over (though it is a bit of a pain in the arse).

Paint can be too thin?

I thin Vallejo air when working them with a brush as standard...

Well, to each their own, I guess.

I like my paints out of the pot a little thicker, then I thin them to the viscosity that I want.

For example, when doing fine details or even edge highlighting, I like my paint thicker to improve adhesion. For drybrushing terrain (stone, metal) or dirt, I want my paints really thick, because I want to leave texture.

For some colors, like blue, I barely thin them a lot at all (Jah should like this, my favorite blues are P3 Cyngar Base & Highlight ). For other colors, like yellow or white, I need them really thin to go on nicely.

Also, for performing glazes (which I use a lot of), I want to start with a thicker paint, and add medium, instead of starting with an airbrush paint, which is already quite thin.

For covering just an errant brushstroke, I don't want super-thin paint, because I don't want a million layers to cover my little black mark.

Two other minor things -- airbrush paints take longer to dry (which can be both good and bad), and I use a wet palette, and airbrush paint goes *everywhere* if you leave it for any amount of time (it bleeds like crazy).

YMMV, but you also get more out of a bottle of paint that has more pigment and less medium, as water is, you know, free. Plus, lots of mediums for the difficult colors, like Flo-Aid, is really, really cheap compared to paint. Even Vallejo airbrush thinner, in the large sizes, is pretty cheap (much cheaper than Vallejo paint). You can make a GW paint pot go really, really far -- I dilute each color a little differently, but for Mephiston Red, for example, my mix is 3:1 of thinner to paint.

 Talys wrote:
I have every Vallejo airbrush paint and yet am super excited to see these. If the work unthinned on Iwata BH/CH size nozzles, they will replace 75% if my airbrush paint, even though I love Vallejo Air.

Why?

I HATE how many colors have no match between model color and model air (like, 75% of the colors). Like a particular shade of red or blue? Too bad the paintbrush version is just a little darker and has a different satin to the finish. There are a couple where paints have the same names, but thse colors are different!!Game air/color is much better, but some some of those (like moon yellow) have insanely bad coverage. The other issue is that nobody local stocks game air, and I must sometimes wait 3+ weeks for it.

OTOH, I really prefer droppers fir airbrush.


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Oh, one other thing -- I was just told that the Vallejo distributor is no longer taking back defective paints, so if this happens, I must contact Vallejo myself. That's a huge turn-off, though I have only ever had 3 or 4 defective paints out of a few hundred.

The difference in shade between model/game colour and model/game air is probably because vallejo using slightly different pigments for some of the air lines. Note that some model colour bottles are marked with "do not spray". Some pigments are simply not very healthy when sprayed. It is also worth noting that vallejo being a serious paint manufacturer actually publishes their material safety data sheets, and also are open with the contents of their paints. Remember that even if paints are considered non toxic when brushed, they might be a different animal when sprayed.

Jorny, that sounds very reasonable, but if that's so, why do most game air and game color paints correlate, but not model air and model color?

Some of them are really dumb, too, like camouflage shades of green and grey. I mean, another paint exists , but it is just slightly off, but slightly enough that you can't use it to fix little airbrush errors, small chips or tightening a camo pattern without ending up worse than where you started.

The preorder date is 29th august and sale date is 5th September

Price per pot £2.55 €3.30 US$ 4.25 Can$5 NZ$7Aus$6

"Never has basecoating all those tanks and Space Marines been so easy!"

... or so ungodly expensive either!

Citadel Air. BAHAHAHAH!

 H.B.M.C. wrote:
Citadel Air.

Fineair?

Seems about the same price as the current paints? Don't see a SEK price so can't compare.

 H.B.M.C. wrote:
"Never has basecoating all those tanks and Space Marines been so easy!"

... or so ungodly expensive either!

Citadel Air. BAHAHAHAH!

I was working in a Hobby shop while this and the spray gun were available to buy, and the paint of evening mentioning them to potential customers was horrible.

 Azreal13 wrote:
Wha?

I use airbrush paints with a brush all the time, work fine.

Eh, aye, I specifically use airbrush paint for brush painting because it works better than thinned normal paint with brushes, particularly for glazing since the much finer pigment doesn't go "speckly" if you dilute them further. No idea what you're on about Talys.

 Talys wrote:

It's easy to thin a paint, but almost impossible to thicken one.

Nah.. it's easy.
You just have to put the paint in any of the paintpot styles GW has made since the late 90's and it'll be nice and thick in a few weeks.