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It is not GW HIPS but definitely closer to that than Bones.

yeah, it seems to be a softer polystyrene. Significantly harder than bones and most "soft plastics", but noticeably less rigid than GWs kits.

Ok, must be more like the Bones Black stuff, then. That stuff is significantly hard enough you can't bend most thicker chunks at all without using heat, and can almost scrape the mould lines like you would normally on HIPS. Or maybe, the more I look at pics on the web, it's like a version of Restic, like my old Sedition Wars kickstarter models. Which is nice in a way, as they take spray primer better than all Bones stuff.

I'll have to think on it, then. I been thinking of getting the standard box from Amazon, until the mech packs come out. I *might* be able to get a couple gaming buddies to try Alpha Strike. Standard BT is way to crunchy for any of my normal gaming partner, even if I don't mind, but there's also a couple of other mech games I have been really wanting good models for that might actually see the light of day, and Christmas is always a good time to splurge on unnecessary projects to add to the pile, lol.

 Tamwulf wrote:
I really want to reopen my Pledge and add a bunch of stuff to it, but . How do I know what I've already got besides going through my box and (which was at the Star Colonel level so I got A LOT of stuff), and how do I figure out what else is coming? Is it just Wave 1 stuff we have received so far, and it's only Wave 2 we are waiting on? I'll probably try and dig into it today.

Thankfully this pledge manager very clearly labels what's Wave 1 and Wave 2.

Shouldn't be much trouble to work out what you have and don't have.

 Tamwulf wrote:
Got the Battle of Tukayyid campaign PDF, and it's awesome. I'm going to order the physical book because it's that good. Which has made me desire the neoprene maps for Tukayyid as well.

I'm happy with the paper mats. I love that they are doublesized by default, rather than two you have to lineup. And the big punchboard of fire/smoke hexes that comes with it is very nice.

The maps themselves are gloriously detailed. Probably the best maps they've ever done.

 Tamwulf wrote:
The new Clan TC variants are very intriguing to me. I want to take them out for a spin!

That Gauss/4 ER Med/TC Ryoken is just beautiful.

I just got two of their neoprene mats and they're gorgeous, tbh. I am sorely tempted to get more of those >_>

very nice, but i really loved the geohex/heroscape tables people put together because it gave you 3d terrain in hexes and it was modular.

Looks amazing, yeah. My main issue with that is that I need to store it somewhere afterwards xD

God those tables are a dream. I just need to gather a table that big and a bit more terrain.

 Albertorius wrote:
Looks amazing, yeah. My main issue with that is that I need to store it somewhere afterwards xD

Well on the flip side, since i own heavy metal pro i can print out all my control sheets with the 3d terrain 1 hex=2" rules so i end up using my 6X4 or 2 4X4 mats without the need for hexes

I personally prefer to play Battletech with hexes, since it makes everything much clearer, but that's just me.

the 3d terrain rules are actually simpler with things like firing arcs. ranges/distances are also easy since you just round up to the nearest inch. levels of terrain are based on how tall something is in inches. every inch up is another level (with water we just declare how many levels deep it is, most of the time level -1 so that mechs are half submerged to the waist unless were doing deep ocean scenarios)

I have been playing with 3d terrain rules for so many years using hexes feels clunky and not as fluid.

The only positive i see from hexes is that you can shrink the play area if you don't have loads of space.

But as has been said, hexes are digital. There's no confusion, ambiguity or, dare I say, arguments over whether something is in LOS, in range, how far it moves.

It's impossible to measure something incorrectly. It's impossible for two people to have a differing idea on what's LOS.

One other advantage, too, most 3D terrain is not set up to be as gradual as the hex-based terrain is. Getting up and down all that is more difficult, to say nothing about just placing the miniatures on them.

So I just found out that the old FASA mapsheets have hexes that are 1.25" (32mm) and the newer CGL mapsheets are 1.3" (33mm). So, whatever scale I print terrain and buildings for, it will be off for some of them.

Plus, it means I can't mix in the newer sheets with the older ones when we play.

 AegisGrimm wrote:
Ok, must be more like the Bones Black stuff, then. That stuff is significantly hard enough you can't bend most thicker chunks at all without using heat, and can almost scrape the mould lines like you would normally on HIPS.

I'll have to think on it, then. I been thinking of getting the standard box from Amazon, until the mech packs come out. I *might* be able to get a couple gaming buddies to try Alpha Strike. Standard BT is way to crunchy for any of my normal gaming partner, even if I don't mind, but there's also a couple of other mech games I have been really wanting good models for that might actually see the light of day, and Christmas is always a good time to splurge on unnecessary projects to add to the pile, lol.

It is pretty rigid, enough to be durable but not break (when you are dealing with <28mm, to much rigidity can be a negative unless the models are metal). The great thing about BT, this holds true for the Alpha Strike version, the game is about as deep as you need/want it to be. You want to have small lance on lance game or have a mega game with lances-submarines-warships-infantry-arial combat. You can also go as lore deep as you want with your group. You can go full on generic or do force composition off of your House/Clan and even nail it down to a time period.

Combat wise has the most realistic rules. Action in round is simultaneous, which means damage is marked but its effect doesn't trigger until the end of round. This eliminates 1st round advantage of I alpha strike most your force off the table scenario. Those guys aren't dead until the end of the round so they get to shot back on your turn.

Fixed wing arial combat is also the most realistic I have scene from any sci-fi game. Most of the air combat for fixed wing happens on a second map that looks like a radar with the entire standard game board being in the smallest circle in the middle. Terrain matters. Infantry in a cityscape are nightmares for anything but Clanner assault mechs.

If you want to see how Alpha Stike plays on the basic level here is a good vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uc_RS_CRVVg&t=3016s


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Albertorius wrote:
Looks amazing, yeah. My main issue with that is that I need to store it somewhere afterwards xD

I am in the same boat. Got to say CG really nailed the 3d effect for their mats.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 H wrote:
So I just found out that the old FASA mapsheets have hexes that are 1.25" (32mm) and the newer CGL mapsheets are 1.3" (33mm). So, whatever scale I print terrain and buildings for, it will be off for some of them.

Plus, it means I can't mix in the newer sheets with the older ones when we play.

Just base them on a 1.3" hex. I do the same for Monsterpoc, I set the building an a square base. Worst case your building is slightly smaller than the hex but you can still see its boundary due to the hexes.

Fixed wing arial combat is also the most realistic I have scene from any sci-fi game. Most of the air combat for fixed wing happens on a second map that looks like a radar with the entire standard game board being in the smallest circle in the middle.

We actually use the aerospace fighters on ground mapsheet rules. with aerotech 2 you are allowed to fly at velocity 1 or 2 -each one counts as a full map sheet(3 is to fast for the fighter to operate in atmosphere and if you go below 1 you stall and crash) up to elevation 9, you can use extra thrust + pilot checks to pull of a list of maneuvers or take a free 45' hex turn every 12" without a penalty.

So you have to plan your flight path with a mind to rather you want to do a strike or strafe attack (gunner +2 or +4 with added standard range penalties-strafe attacks can hit multiple targets in a line but can only be done by energy weapons like lasers)-aerospace always move last against ground targets having the mandatory speed advantage

It really gets AA units a role to play since the to hit mod is either a +5 or +7 AA gets an automatic -2 to hit for air tracking radar and then the weapon abilities are added in like LBX cluster shot(-1) and pulse weapons (-2) with range penalties applied as normal.

 Charistoph wrote:
One other advantage, too, most 3D terrain is not set up to be as gradual as the hex-based terrain is. Getting up and down all that is more difficult, to say nothing about just placing the miniatures on them.

The old Heroscape terrain seems very useful for this?

 Mr Morden wrote:

 Charistoph wrote:
One other advantage, too, most 3D terrain is not set up to be as gradual as the hex-based terrain is. Getting up and down all that is more difficult, to say nothing about just placing the miniatures on them.

The old Heroscape terrain seems very useful for this?

Spoiler:

Spoiler:

That's more hex terrain than 3D terrain. But for Battletech, they'd easily suffice.

The Heroscape stuff allows for a bit more of a dynamic look to hex maps without going to the 3d terrain rules.

So, I am about 90% certain I am going to pull the trigger on Battletech as a Christmas to myself after about 25 years of dabbling in various parts of the property (but never the true game, oddly enough). Almost all of the miniatures games I own and paint models for end up requiring me to paint enough minis for both sides of a game, so any opponent has good-looking loaners from my collection.

What is the best way to aim my collecting/painting after getting the full 8-mech boxed set, considering that the mech packs won't be here for several months, at least?

Here are the options I was thinking of, and keep in mind I am very much a neophyte other than spending too much time on Sarna over the years, so at least I have a working knowledge of the background storyline:

1: Paint the mechs as two classically opposed Inner Sphere houses and/or merc companies with the intent to primarily play them against each other in the pre-Clan, Succession Wars Era. Expand each with additional Inner Sphere-only mechs. Eventually maybe paint up some Clan-only mechs as a third force, and then everything moves into the Invasion years.

2: Similar to the above, but purposefully paint the two starter set forces as two similar-enough paint schemes, than if I expand into the Clans, I can simply unite them to portray a single House's force against the Clans.

3: Just say eff it and set everything post-Clan enough that two opposing forces can just use any mechs I feel like. Less thematically interesting, but the most freedom.

If you guys have some Heroscape terrain but not enough to fill a huge table, you can save alot of plastic hexes by using the boards from Magic the Gathering "Arena of the Planeswalkers".

The game is dead, but the sets are still available for not too much money. It's a clone of Heroscape with added magic rules but only included a few of the heroscape hex pieces instead opting for printed cardboard maps. Your heroscape hexes go alot further when the ground level is already covered and you only need them for elevation

 AegisGrimm wrote:
What is the best way to aim my collecting/painting after getting the full 8-mech boxed set, considering that the mech packs won't be here for several months, at least?

Firstly, get the Beginner's Box as well. It nets you an extra two 'Mechs, and some more maps. More maps = more variety, which is always a good thing. As someone who's been playing with the same maps for 20 years, the recent influx of new maps is an absolute Godsend. The more the better!

Plus with 10 'Mechs it will give you a bit more variety, even if one of those two 'Mechs is a duplicate of the Wolverine that's in the 8 'Mech box. I have no idea why they went with a duplicate 'Mech.

 AegisGrimm wrote:
1: Paint the mechs as two classically opposed Inner Sphere houses and/or merc companies with the intent to primarily play them against each other in the pre-Clan, Succession Wars Era. Expand each with additional Inner Sphere-only mechs. Eventually maybe paint up some Clan-only mechs as a third force, and then everything moves into the Invasion years.

If you get both the Lance Packs that exist now (or will in a few months) + the 10 from the Beginner/Starter boxes, that's a fairly good spread of 'Mechs to use in heaps of scenarios. No Clans, obviously, but people have been playing without Clans for years.

As for painting them, splitting the 'Mechs in two groups is a good start. There are plenty of guides out there as to what 'Mechs fit with what Great House, but the truth is that they've been fighting one another with the same 'Mechs for so long that any house can have just about any 'Mech, even if some are more 'traditional' for one House over another.

 AegisGrimm wrote:
2: Similar to the above, but purposefully paint the two starter set forces as two similar-enough paint schemes, than if I expand into the Clans, I can simply unite them to portray a single House's force against the Clans.

Depends how picky you want to be about that sort of thing. You shouldn't let the unit's paint stop you from mixing and matching forces. The consideration you should make is how to tell everything apart easily enough from a glance.

 AegisGrimm wrote:
3: Just say eff it and set everything post-Clan enough that two opposing forces can just use any mechs I feel like. Less thematically interesting, but the most freedom.

This is what I'd do, but I'm looking at this from a different perspective (I have over 400 'Mechs, so splitting them up by Great House/Clan is really easy).

I wasn't really going to worry about delving deep enough to group traditional mechs with houses, but instead split the box in what seems like an equitable mix. I might actually paint one side as a House force, and the other as a Mercenary force, because then they also will blend easily if I end up with Clan stuff. And this is mostly just a plan if I ever end up playing large forces in Alpha Strike, or Mech Attack (a non-Catalyst game, which is kind of a middle ground between Classic and Alpha Strike in models-per-force and damage/heat tracking.)

Though I have to admit that before I have even bought the main starter box, I have already fallen prey to the subtle lures of this cute little buddy from a 3D printer. I figured why not, if I am painting Inner Sphere stuff, let's start with one of the nastiest, most iconic mechs, lol.

That is a sweet looking Atlas. Good scale with the Awesome too. I love the upside down hex base. I've done that for a number of my Omnis where the feet are so broad that don't fit the right way up.

Also, never take the 3050 upgraded Atlas. It's junk. Stick with the OG. AS7-D. The AS7-K is not your friend.

Yeah, when I found that Atlas from an Etsy seller (that's the seller's pic above) for 10 bucks+ shipping, I couldn't resist. I also bought a bunch of 1.25 inch MDF bases to base everything on, even the new plastics, because I like flat bases better than beveled, because then the feet sticking off aren't quite as pronounced, I guess. The only bit of a bummer is that the new larger plastics sure don't look like they'll scale well with some of the old ancient metal mechs I have rattling around in storage.

For some reason, even though I have never played the game even once, over the ages I kept either buying secondhand or being gifted random mechs alongside all my 40k stuff when I was a kid, and horribly painting them. Like, oooooold stuff. I actually have several unassembled Clan mechs in a box that were the old blue resin/metal combos when Ral Partha sold them!

Some BTech minis can be old. I know I own some ancient vehicle sculpts that are almost as old as I am.

I just hope I have enough room in my (now) 3 cases dedicated to BTech for the incoming plastics.

H.B.M.C. wrote: I love the upside down hex base.

Also, never take the 3050 upgraded Atlas. It's junk. Stick with the OG. AS7-D. The AS7-K is not your friend.

Sometimes the feet are too large for the metal hex bases so you have to turn them over. the plastic ones are a bit larger since they cover the same footprint without the bevel.

As for the atlas my favorite is my Lyran variant S2 with the heavy gauss and ECM. it is part of my good heat management desert lance.

H.B.M.C. wrote:Some BTech minis can be old. I know I own some ancient vehicle sculpts that are almost as old as I am.

I just hope I have enough room in my (now) 3 cases dedicated to BTech for the incoming plastics.

I also have a bunch of the unseens including the early clan IICs that got resculpted.

It is cheep to start but you end up with a huge collection. i have a foot locker sized tote full of enough minis to field most of a cluster and a comparable IS batallion between all the vehicles, battle armor, mechs and so forth. i even have the clicky version of the leopard dropship (it is more accurate with the mech scale.)

AndrewGPaul

When we get new players into the game we always encourage the lore. pick a faction you like the look of(units), combat style of, history etc... the field manuals are also a nice deeper dive into the game allowing special rules for specific units.

We play every era from 3025 (for more explosions) through 3185 but mostly around the fedcom civil war because there is so much variety available to the player during that period,

Remember the basic rule that clan mechs are worth 1.3 times an IS mech so a "fair fight" if you pit clanners against IS in a normal classic battletech game is 2 IS lances of standard 4/5 pilots against a single star of clan 3/4 pilots. we usually designate the force commanders to be aces with one better stats than their normal faction would have.

Outside of a planned event BV is pretty worthless for pick up games and is easily negated because of the crit system and pilot checks.

Theme is usually what we look for..

For example one of my 2nd swords kurita lance follows the normal combat doctrine of kurita with C3 computers , fast heavies and PPCs

.shugenja-C3 master/lance commander
.daikyuu-02
.ninja-to-3
.grand dragon-7K

By comparison my lyran desert assault lance runs a gauss heavy low heat...and assault mechs because steiner
.atlas S2
.fafnir
.viking 2G
.battlemaster 4S (steiner scout mech)

To stay in theme since i play hells horse on the clan side i always include a point of vehicles (2 for 1 mech because clanners think less of vehicles even for the horse)
and a point of protomechs because they count as infantry. So i don't take the initiative penalties required in the field manual rules for not having infantry in my force.

This is a good thread to see.
English BT player here, how easy do people find it is to start a group? Pre-lockdown I had 2 older gents and that was it.

Anyway, besides that I cant wait for my KS stuff to arrive. A full trinary of Clanners for my Jae Falcons and a lot of IS mechs for my various units (Magistracy of Canopus Fusliliers, Donogal Guards and 2nd Genyosha) as well as 6 Urbanmechs Im hoping to really get things started and ramp things up to the civil war and eventually Jihad.

I'm hoping that there is a local scene hidden away somewhere, otherwise I'll pretend it's 2000 and I'm 18 again, and beg a friend to play.

Singapore, of all places, seemed to have a good BTech community. Could never figure out why.

First place I ever saw BTech mini blisters in the flesh.

I've got one friend who bought into the Kickstarter (he got everything, and bought some things twice by accident!), another friend who has some old BTech stuff and is interested in playing, another friend who has nothing but wants to play and another who... I can't tell. He's played, but sometimes he doesn't want to. I can't tell if he's into it or not. I'm hoping that the newer plastic minis will sway him to join in (don't need him to buy in - we've already done that for him).