Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

 Red Corsair wrote:
Seemed like they wanted folks to waste paint.

Or, you know, have infinite access to free paint so don't need to be careful or take their time, just slap it on and correct mistakes. It's faster for them even if it wastes paint, and GW marketing won't say no to increasing paint sales that way too. Yeah, irritates me too but you'd paint same way if materials were free...

SamusDrake wrote:
I've got my eye on the Iyanden Yellow for some Imperial Fists, but I'm wondering if one really needs the two base colours they are suggesting. Are they just standard creamy-beigy( "OOOOOoooooooo - The White-ish Knight!" ) and light grey acrylics?

They already said it's white primer with some super special secret additives. How much they matter in practice we'll see in a week or so.

SamusDrake wrote:
I've got my eye on the Iyanden Yellow for some Imperial Fists, but I'm wondering if one really needs the two base colours they are suggesting. Are they just standard creamy-beigy( "OOOOOoooooooo - The White-ish Knight!" ) and light grey acrylics?

They're supposed to give a smoother finish.

SamusDrake wrote:
I've got my eye on the Iyanden Yellow for some Imperial Fists, but I'm wondering if one really needs the two base colours they are suggesting. Are they just standard creamy-beigy( "OOOOOoooooooo - The White-ish Knight!" ) and light grey acrylics?

The primer is supposed to give a much smoother finish which is required for the effect, if the underlying coat is even a little rough/coarse the paint is going to catch and pool on the flat parts of the model which ruins the effect your trying to achieve.

So if your current primer already gives a really smooth finish then I would assume it will work just as well.

So, I’ve being doing me a big think.

And I’d like to share the results with you.

Whilst as a medium these are clearly bloody good? They’re not a miracle solution. One still needs to learn brush control to keep each colour only where it should. And I suspect one will need to learn what sort of brushstroke to apply. Easier said than done when you’ve got one coat to get it right.

Yes. They’re simplistic as paints go once you’ve got that down. But they do teach the absolute basic tenet, and beautifully. Neatness.

See, for those understandably asking ‘what if I bodge a stroke?’, there are at least pots of the base for a quick touch up.

But with the solid results from a mere modicum of care? I really think these will raise the quality of painting overall. Those previously daunted by base/wash/highlight for a whole army can now crack on, and get pretty decent, if standardised results.

The confidence that can instill could well, one day, see a beginner that’d otherwise be reticent to get going win a Golden Daemon.

Because painting is scary. And it shouldn’t be. These are your training wheels. And that isn’t a bad thing. From the very basic, very easy, they’ll still be getting brushes in hands, and provide confidence that, actually, Yes I Can in newbies. And and sad old gits like me.

 Irbis wrote:

They already said it's white primer with some super special secret additives.

Please God, let it be alcohol!

Sod it, its only two paints...I'll get them.

The Space Marine tutorial video is brutal. The paintjob looks really, really bad, even for beginners' standards. Blotches and pooling everywhere, too much paint on brush and miniature, unnecessarily reapplying the base coat etc. Space Marines don't lend themselves to this kind of paint at all, it seems. Or maybe he should've used less of it for a cleaner result. Probably something with a bit more texture would have made for a better demonstration.

Watching this video, it looks like people are being taught to burn through their paint and brushes more than anything. Certainly not useful techniques or best practices to improve their painting in the long run.

I think these are clearly aimed at the folk who just don't paint stuff, so quick and sloppy are fine as long as the painting gets done double quick

(in fact taking too much time and care might impact sales of normal paint to people who already paint?)

That video was really poorly done. I'm interested in why they would post a video of such poor work when random people at Warhammer fest posted pictures of their work that was considerably better just using Contrast.

Also the instructor tells you to water down the Contrast paint, while I have seen specifically elsewhere (including GW) that Contrast paint does not work with water. And how about having to paint the lighter areas with the primer again to cover them? How about just not painting them blue in the first place?

I'm definitely still interested in these for flesh, whites, and blacks, but man this video did dampen my enthusiasm a bit. I just don't understand as we have seen Intercessors before painted with just contrast the looked much better.

 Sabotage! wrote:

Also the instructor tells you to water down the Contrast paint, while I have seen specifically elsewhere (including GW) that Contrast paint does not work with water..

He was talking about watering down the primer not the contrast colour. The pot primer is the same as regular GW base paints so water is fine with them.

But yeah not the most impressive end result. I do wonder how much influence corporate had on the choice of mini and colour though. All those smooth surfaces don't seem to be the best match for blobing on the blue like that.

SamusDrake wrote:

 Irbis wrote:

They already said it's white primer with some super special secret additives.

Please God, let it be alcohol!

Sod it, its only two paints...I'll get them.

You’ll only need one of the two, once you’ve decided which looks better under the yellow.

GoatboyBeta wrote:

He was talking about watering down the primer not the contrast colour. The pot primer is the same as regular GW base paints so water is fine with them.

But yeah not the most impressive end result. I do wonder how much influence corporate had on the choice of mini and colour though. All those smooth surfaces don't seem to be the best match for blobing on the blue like that.

Ah, that makes sense. I for some reason thought the primers were also Contrast paints.

It was a really strange choice of model indeed. I'm not sure why they would try to show off the paints in how fast they can paint Space Marines either, as their are tons of colored sprays on the market that make painting an Intercessor super fast with only the need of one shade and three or four other colors.

Checking out more of the site, nearly all the other "techniques" videos also use a blue Intercessor as well. So they probably wanted to keep a certain level of consistency. Especially as they seem to be aimed more at those who are making there first steps into mini painting.

Well my planned shopping list is this:

- 1 Can of spray + (and pot of the same color)
- Flesh Tearer Red
- Apothecary White (have to test that white color)
- Some interesting color
- Contrast medium as my only retarders are water based.
- New models (propably Skitarii Vanguard)

Good thing I got a gift card so I ain't going broke!

Just noticed that there's also a new Matte paint-on varnish - presumably it will be released along the new paints. It's called Stormshield and appears in one of the tutorials

 Ordana wrote:

SamusDrake wrote:
I've got my eye on the Iyanden Yellow for some Imperial Fists, but I'm wondering if one really needs the two base colours they are suggesting. Are they just standard creamy-beigy( "OOOOOoooooooo - The White-ish Knight!" ) and light grey acrylics?

The primer is supposed to give a much smoother finish which is required for the effect, if the underlying coat is even a little rough/coarse the paint is going to catch and pool on the flat parts of the model which ruins the effect your trying to achieve.

So if your current primer already gives a really smooth finish then I would assume it will work just as well.

Was thinking about the primer thing a little earlier - car/auto primer might be a good substitute. I had a tin of grey Simonez car primer I got cheap off ebay a while ago, and it seemed to dry as a very thin and smooth "skin" on the miniature.

The contrast paints at WHF were thinned with water in the demos, by Darren lathem of eavy metal. So I don't know where that information about not thinning is coming from. You clearly can thin them.. I watched him do it in front of my eyes. Licked the brush aswell.

Yep, you'd just need a primer with a smooth skin, and not the powdery effect you can get from some primers. Notably colour-primers would be pretty good (something like Army Painter sprays, etc.).

Some primers are much more flat/powdery (a good trait when you're trying to get paint to stick - not the best when you're being artistic with a 1" tall figure). You'd just want the primers which produce a smooth-to-the-touch finish. I doubt there is very much special in the new GW primers.

Only way to know if you try some out.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
The contrast paints at WHF were thinned with water in the demos, by Darren lathem of eavy metal. So I don't know where that information about not thinning is coming from. You clearly can thin them.. I watched him do it in front of my eyes. Licked the brush aswell.

I suppose I could be confusing "not using water" with "then we thin the paint with the Contrast medium," but I do believe I heard a few places that you couldn't use water. It could just be a "hey we have this medium here that's really nice," marketing tactic. Nice to know they can be used with water though.

There's probably more than a few techniques that the 'Eavy Metal team uses that one wouldn't suggest to a beginner. From what I've seen mentioned is that thinning the Contrast paints with water cuts down on the properties that makes them Contrast paints.

 Sabotage! wrote:

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
The contrast paints at WHF were thinned with water in the demos, by Darren lathem of eavy metal. So I don't know where that information about not thinning is coming from. You clearly can thin them.. I watched him do it in front of my eyes. Licked the brush aswell.

I suppose I could be confusing "not using water" with "then we thin the paint with the Contrast medium," but I do believe I heard a few places that you couldn't use water. It could just be a "hey we have this medium here that's really nice," marketing tactic. Nice to know they can be used with water though.

I believe it was the member of staff at the public demo table at Warhammer Fest who said that you shouldn’t thin with water as it will cause issues with the contrasting property of the paint which is why they made a new thining fluid available.

Well it could've been thinning fluid, but I doubt he would've been putting his brush in his mouth if it was! I think what they mean is that if you're using them as basecoats you use the 'one thick coat' however, they clearly can be thinned with water and used for more advanced techniques. I was impressed with how well they worked for jewels and gemstones.

Personally, I tend to work from dark to light when painting, so if I do try these it will be a change for me.

I was told that thinning them with water makes them dry with tide marks.

I imagine that's if you cover whole areas with it thinned. If you're using it in targeted precise areas it seems fine.

I'm looking forward to trying them for sure - although I suspect you'll still need to combine them with a shade/highlight to get the most out of them.
I think they'll work best on minis with a lot of texture and less so on Space Marines or anything with lots of large flat areas and the pooling I've seen on some of the minis so far is a concern.
This all said I think they're a great idea - anything that can get people painting quicker and easier will always get my vote.

I think they might make a great base to build from and I'm keen to experiment with pre-shading and glazes on top to smooth the finish off.

This is what contrast paints look like when airbrushed over silver.

Here's another example from Richard Gray. Painted in 30mins.
Here's what he said:

"So I've been playing about with the new Contrast Paints from Games Workshop and I wanted to see if I could get something done for gaming really quickly. I started by priming black and then a zenithal highlight of Wraithbone The marine you can see here is just one coat of Blood Angel Red for the base armour, one coat of Iyanden Yellow for the eagle and one coat of Black Templar for the gun. The gun glow was Aethermatic Blue. I think the blue could have done with a white base colour to be more effective. I added some very quick highlights by hand using Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red and Lugganth Orange, and I painted in the eyes with Moot Green and Yriel Yellow. The gun had some very quick upper edge highlights of Daemonette Hide. I then gave the whole model a coat of matte varnish. Total paint time was around 30 minutes not including waiting for it to dry. You could very easily knock out a 10 man squad of these in a day."

That is the first good looking Contrast Marine. It really looks like you can do good stuff quickly if you put in effort and have an idea what you're doing - just like regular paints.

I hope there's a good colour for more ochre-ish yellow, now that I bought twenty squigs cheaply...smaller models like gobbos should hopefully work pretty well with Contrast, if I don't have to layer a hundred robes I might actually paint my old Skull Pass stuff AND my new squigs. The old washes worked pretty well on them, but I spilled my Devland Mud right after GW discontinued it. Also hopeful that you get cool effects when it comes to dots and lumps on skin thanks to the transparency. Basecoat - stippling or dotting on some patterns - Contrast - details would be a dream.

Oh, and if that white and black are good then the whole thing was worth it even if the rest sucks.

SamusDrake wrote:

 Irbis wrote:

They already said it's white primer with some super special secret additives.

Please God, let it be alcohol!

Sod it, its only two paints...I'll get them.

It is liquid gold, GW puts it in all their products that is how they can charge so much didn't you know that?

Hmm... no Edge Paint section of the new website.

Chikout wrote:
Here's another example from Richard Gray. Painted in 30mins.
Here's what he said:

"So I've been playing about with the new Contrast Paints from Games Workshop and I wanted to see if I could get something done for gaming really quickly. I started by priming black and then a zenithal highlight of Wraithbone The marine you can see here is just one coat of Blood Angel Red for the base armour, one coat of Iyanden Yellow for the eagle and one coat of Black Templar for the gun. The gun glow was Aethermatic Blue. I think the blue could have done with a white base colour to be more effective. I added some very quick highlights by hand using Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red and Lugganth Orange, and I painted in the eyes with Moot Green and Yriel Yellow. The gun had some very quick upper edge highlights of Daemonette Hide. I then gave the whole model a coat of matte varnish. Total paint time was around 30 minutes not including waiting for it to dry. You could very easily knock out a 10 man squad of these in a day."

Primed black. Zenithaled beige. Based with contrast (only use). Then a three step/color edge highlight just on the armor. Matte varnish. This is the stuff with the potential for giving people unrealistic expectations. Only one step in 7 is using the contrast paint for that armor. Great looking model, but the massive loads of salt required for lower skill painters.