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 Freya wrote:

I find it difficult going with dark colors on top of light ones like your blue over white... I've only just started really getting into Zenithal Highlighting this year and I'm not sure how I'd do ultramarines like the ones you're doing cuz I'd probably butcher the blue. I can't wait to see how they turn out.

I’ve been priming everything white for a long time now. Basic rattle-can spray. They get 3 coats of blue total. A thin sloppy coat to start (where they are now). After all the detail work is done, they get another thin coat, much more carefully applied. Both these are the basic blue. Macragge Blue currently, but it’s shifted with GW’s paint ranges. The final coat is an ink glaze with an old pot of “Blue Ink” from the Cote D’arms age. Those inks are pretty high saturation, and make for some vibrant colors. Which is why my Ultras end up more a bright sapphire blue then the stock GW scheme.

I’d like to find a replacement for the Blue Ink, but none of the contrast paints (which I think would give similar results) seem to match the shade I’m looking for. I’ll probably just place an order and get some Cote D’arms paints when it gets low.

 Freya wrote:

 Nevelon wrote:
WIP


So after the first pass for the blue, I switched to the W&N #1 for the first detail pass. They are not magic wands that instantly make everything better. My hands still shake the same, my eyes still suck. So there is still some slop. Would have it been better if I did this pass with the #0? Probably, but would have take longer. Running with the old advice of use the biggest brush you can for the space you are painting.

Point control was a lot better. Doesn’t help me when bumping the side of the brush against things, but was nice. Easier to use. Less of the feeling of trying to force the brush to get where it needed to be, or figure out how the mis-shapen point needs to angle to get into that corner.

Just one or two more colors and then I’m at the wash and drybrush stage. I will use the W&Ns for the targeted washes, but for the final blue glaze and the drybrushing, I’ll probably stick with the cheepos. Final edging and detail cleanup will be back to the nice ones.

I find it difficult going with dark colors on top of light ones like your blue over white... I've only just started really getting into Zenithal Highlighting this year and I'm not sure how I'd do ultramarines like the ones you're doing cuz I'd probably butcher the blue. I can't wait to see how they turn out.

+1 I've used zeniths for the first time and applying my layers has just entirely hidden it, may as well have not bothered. I think in my very noob opinion you really have to have your painting process planned out, be very sparing with the layers and apply very weak coats or they just vanish under colour.

I do think that zenithal highlighting is useful to get an idea of where your shadow and highlight placements will go. I think unless you're going super thin with your layering, you won't get much of a benefit from zenithal layering otherwise (airbrushing excluded from this point). Zenithal priming doesn't really suit GW's order of operations I think.

 Tyranid Horde wrote:
I do think that zenithal highlighting is useful to get an idea of where your shadow and highlight placements will go. I think unless you're going super thin with your layering, you won't get much of a benefit from zenithal layering otherwise (airbrushing excluded from this point). Zenithal priming doesn't really suit GW's order of operations I think.

Agreed, though I'm going to look at how applying over the base colour (for clarity my first layer of colour, not just over the primer) works out at some point in the future, perhaps it will yield better results.

 Tyranid Horde wrote:
I do think that zenithal highlighting is useful to get an idea of where your shadow and highlight placements will go. I think unless you're going super thin with your layering, you won't get much of a benefit from zenithal layering otherwise (airbrushing excluded from this point). Zenithal priming doesn't really suit GW's order of operations I think.

I thought zenithal highlighting is only useful when applying the colours with an airbrush or by contrast paints?

Most brush paints are way too opaque to let the zenithal shade modulation to pass through.

 tauist wrote:

 Tyranid Horde wrote:
I do think that zenithal highlighting is useful to get an idea of where your shadow and highlight placements will go. I think unless you're going super thin with your layering, you won't get much of a benefit from zenithal layering otherwise (airbrushing excluded from this point). Zenithal priming doesn't really suit GW's order of operations I think.

I thought zenithal highlighting is only useful when applying the colours with an airbrush or by contrast paints?

Most brush paints are way too opaque to let the zenithal shade modulation to pass through.

Nah, you can use it for normal brush painting too. Thinning your paint will reduce the opacity of the paint so you'll get the benefit of it. GW's layering system is about opaque coats all over so that style doesn't really benefit from a zenithal prime imo.

I brush paint using VJ model airs, mostly, often over a zenithal prime. Works ok.

I brush painted that Woodland Stag and I used zenith on it to start off.... but that's a yellow / tan color on white which is way less of a problem than blue would be.

So after nearly 2 weeks of rubbish weather I have eventually got some work done on my chaplin. I had the basing and the gubbins added to him but I had no opportunity to prime him. Thankfully that happened a couple of days ago with a break in the weather.

I managed to get some drybrushing done on the base but I'm a touch afraid of going to far with it. Also got my first shot at some dark edge highlights on him, in hindsight I would've probably used eshin grey rather than mech standard but I'm here now. Spent today working on blocking in some other colours as I was sick of looking at black. The silver, cream and red were added in tonights session. Hopefully get more done tomorrow.



Hopefully pic works this time.

kryczek wrote:
So after nearly 2 weeks of rubbish weather I have eventually got some work done on my chaplin. I had the basing and the gubbins added to him but I had no opportunity to prime him. Thankfully that happened a couple of days ago with a break in the weather.

I managed to get some drybrushing done on the base but I'm a touch afraid of going to far with it. Also got my first shot at some dark edge highlights on him, in hindsight I would've probably used eshin grey rather than mech standard but I'm here now. Spent today working on blocking in some other colours as I was sick of looking at black. The silver, cream and red were added in tonights session. Hopefully get more done tomorrow.

Spoiler:

Hopefully pic works this time.

In the “share this image” section of the Dakka gallery, you want to grab the link out of the “forums” box


I like the more subdued highlights, but some folk prefer the more distinct ones. Really a mater of taste. Good work overall, keep it up!

Cheers Nevelon much appreciated. I do intend to do a bit more highlighting on the black but I agree with not going too far.

I'll never be a painter but your monthly challenge is a great thing to help motivate me to do it. So thanks for doing it.

Hmm I thought I did that last time, will try the tutorial again.

Cheers.

kryczek wrote:
Cheers Nevelon much appreciated. I do intend to do a bit more highlighting on the black but I agree with not going too far.

I'll never be a painter but your monthly challenge is a great thing to help motivate me to do it. So thanks for doing it.

Hmm I thought I did that last time, will try the tutorial again.

Cheers.

You're putting paint on your model, that makes you a painter. Every brush stroke leads to improvement, so keep at it!

 Nevelon wrote:


I’d like to find a replacement for the Blue Ink, but none of the contrast paints (which I think would give similar results) seem to match the shade I’m looking for. I’ll probably just place an order and get some Cote D’arms paints when it gets low.

Have you tried liquitex or daler rowney inks? They tend to be gloss but it's easily remedied with some matt varnish. I love liquitex cux of their incredible intensity and I can thin them like regular paints. DR does the same too.

 Freya wrote:

 Nevelon wrote:


I’d like to find a replacement for the Blue Ink, but none of the contrast paints (which I think would give similar results) seem to match the shade I’m looking for. I’ll probably just place an order and get some Cote D’arms paints when it gets low.

Have you tried liquitex or daler rowney inks? They tend to be gloss but it's easily remedied with some matt varnish. I love liquitex cux of their incredible intensity and I can thin them like regular paints. DR does the same too.

I’ve not seriously looked at options. Lucked into another pot of the original a couple years ago, and despite a small spill, still have enough for a bit.

I don’t varnish minis, so being extra glossy is either a big deal or another step. I’ll start looking into more options if/when I actually start to run low again.

JoshInJapan wrote:

kryczek wrote:
Cheers Nevelon much appreciated. I do intend to do a bit more highlighting on the black but I agree with not going too far.

I'll never be a painter but your monthly challenge is a great thing to help motivate me to do it. So thanks for doing it.

Hmm I thought I did that last time, will try the tutorial again.

Cheers.

You're putting paint on your model, that makes you a painter. Every brush stroke leads to improvement, so keep at it!

What Josh said

Cheers guys much appreciated.

I managed to get some work done today on my entry. Just some blocking in and a few tidy ups here and there.

Ok third time lucky, using the forum link.

Nope. Why don't you just post directly from your phone?

kryczek wrote:
Cheers guys much appreciated.

I managed to get some work done today on my entry. Just some blocking in and a few tidy ups here and there.

Ok third time lucky, using the forum link.

Spoiler:

[img]https://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2021/1/14/1092427_sm-pcob2.jpg" border="0" />[/img]

You should use the first link ("Forums") in the "Share This Image" area of the photo in question. It has both a URL and img tag, is really long, and should be cut and pasted into your post:

Progress on my Assault Intercessors. The armor (the focus of my New Trick) is done, and most of the rest has been basecoated:

Sorry for the blurry photo, I shot this in a hurry and didn't hold the camera far enough away to focus on the nearer guys.

Yeah that's what I did. I'll try with no spoiler tags.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Guess it was that then lol. Will try for a better photo. I'll hopefully have a new phone soon with a better camera.

Some WIP for the two platforms from my entry:




If you want a step by step guide to building these I have it in my Necromunda Terrain Building log https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/420/780934.page

The long painting and converting war continues...

CB

Essay completed and had the chance to get back to Elucia.

- Started to apply some green stuff. the mold line on the rim of the hat - also don't wear wool while painting!!!!!!!!!!
- dry brushed a tiny amount of dorn yellow onto the red and went over with a diluted Blood Angels red.
- started the eagle chest emblem.
- I'm going to probably leave the gun as brass.
- Started the peacock feathers (she's a tiny model and I've not magnification!) This is where for me contrast paints have come into their own, I'm liking this over zenithal!
- face to go, going to be tricky but looking forward to it and I need to rework the frilly cloth and tidy up around the edges with some Black Templar contrast

Minor update; finished building the vignette, and picked up a few products that I have never used before.

So this entry will be a triple-whammy of new things: entirely new scale, with new paints I've never used before, and experimenting with the UV resin for sewer water!

 DV8 wrote:
Minor update; finished building the vignette, and picked up a few products that I have never used before.

So this entry will be a triple-whammy of new things: entirely new scale, with new paints I've never used before, and experimenting with the UV resin for sewer water!

Dude nice!! Kimera is top shelf. Have fun!

The gsw UV resin is a decent product, but I wasn't a fan of it for deep pools of standing water personally... It's very viscous so I found mixing in colours was difficult because you had to transfer the resin from the bottle to a pot, mix the colours, then the pot to the diorama. It's also quite easy to get bubbles, and hard to remove them. But the advantage is not having to wait 24 hours for curing obviously, and you generally don't have to worry about resin spills from dodgy mold seals, which is just awful. I wish you luck!

Today's progress. Finished the main colours so i have the rest of the month to do the nmm and base. I dont think i will be touching his chaplain companion this month.

A few hours added. I like the contrast paints for certain things now, some layered color on the feather and a few weak coats of gore-grunta and lahmian. (last 3 photos are iphone shots..) Added more color to the feathers, went around the red a little more to darken some areas and brighten others with contrast. Drybrushed and messed about with the frilly stuff some more. Cut her from her base/rubble and put her onto a more ship/city-themed base. Basically at the point where I'm going to drive myself mad if I keep adding - that said I've avoided the face up until now, I'm dreading it and so glad it's hidden in shadow.

@Turaxa thanks! I may start a Harlequin army one day

19/01/2021 Update: after a ton of procrastination I've decided to leave the face/eye alone. I'd put some base colour down and done the eyeball on her already but when I put it under the light I really wasn't happy. Looking at how small/tight that area is going to be to paint along with the fact it's in a recess so I've very limited angles to attack it from along with the fact everything else around it has been painted to a point I'm happy with I feel the chances of ruining it vs the gain just isn't in my favor or worth the bother (note to self - do recessed areas before painting around it/them) plus to even see the detail you have to have the most precise direct light angled at it, I'm leaving it alone!

- Going to be moving onto gemstones and eye optic next with layers (how good are GW's technical gemstone paints? Worth a buy?), which I've only done a handful of times before.

- Also deciding what to do colour wise with the backpack/power/energy thing. I'm thinking of a yellow in the middle moving into a dark green on the edges.
- I'm going to be adding some more colour onto the pistol holster and add a few more brass variants, tidy up the base and darken down the top of the left boob along with a weak layer of gore grunta into a few of the lines - on her frilly face stuff
- Just noticed the ring on her left hand
- Hopefully will decide what I want to do and get a couple of hours in over the weekend.

Those feathers are great. You should go all out and paint a whole peacock in that style.

Edited after scrolling up:

 JoshInJapan wrote:
You're putting paint on your model, that makes you a painter. Every brush stroke leads to improvement, so keep at it!

This should be the Painting Challenge's slogan.

A few more WIP shots of the gloem:





I think I've got the shiny down, but it doesn't look really metallic to me. Next up, I'll paint and attach the arms, and then do a little decoration on the base.

 JoshInJapan wrote:
A few more WIP shots of the gloem:





I think I've got the shiny down, but it doesn't look really metallic to me. Next up, I'll paint and attach the arms, and then do a little decoration on the base.

I'm all McDonalds over this! I think maybe you've been staring at it too long? always makes me second guess myself...