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Painting Question that I cannot find an answer to...

When you play Games Workshop stores and play in their Tournaments, do you have to use their pants?

How do you think that would be in any way enforceable?

 Lathe Biosas wrote:
Painting Question that I cannot find an answer to...

When you play Games Workshop stores and play in their Tournaments, do you have to use their pants?

I just wear my own pants

 Cap'n Facebeard wrote:

 Lathe Biosas wrote:
Painting Question that I cannot find an answer to...

When you play Games Workshop stores and play in their Tournaments, do you have to use their pants?

I just wear my own pants

GAH!

Foiled again by Autocorrect.

i've heard that if you're coming into the store to paint, they want you to use citadel paints, but if you're just playing, i don't think they could possibly tell the difference, at least without close inspection

There is no possible way to prove it other than chemical analysis, especially given how many times they have changed their own paint formulation, with the resulting slight shade changes.

The reason I ask, is that I've been playing with various black colors and I can't seem to get anything under the GW citadel range to look like black metal.... not just black plastic.

I don't have an airbrush, which I know I'll need to paint Knights, but for now I'm just testing colors.

You can paint knights with regular brushes too - airbrushes can make some things easier/faster or achieve some unique effects; but you can paint every model with brushes.

That said yeah go wild with paints - no one cares one bit and chances are if they do care they just want to know what paints you used so they can emulate it. Even the big Golden Demon awards don't care about the paints used.

 Overread wrote:
You can paint knights with regular brushes too - airbrushes can make some things easier/faster or achieve some unique effects; but you can paint every model with brushes.

That said yeah go wild with paints - no one cares one bit and chances are if they do care they just want to know what paints you used so they can emulate it. Even the big Golden Demon awards don't care about the paints used.

Cool. The reason I'm walking on eggshells, is that the Warhammer store will literally be the closest shop to my new home. That's why I've been odd about trying to figure out if things are GW kosher.

Thank you for your help!

 Flinty wrote:
There is no possible way to prove it other than chemical analysis, especially given how many times they have changed their own paint formulation, with the resulting slight shade changes.

Lol, I love the idea that every time someone cracks open their miniature case, the store manager cracks open his spectroscope...

"This blue is two shades too light... THIS ISN'T SOTEK GREEN!!! You are BANISHED, sir! Never darken our halls with your slightly too light paint jobs EVAR AGAAAAIN!!!"

 CancelledApocalypse wrote:

 Flinty wrote:
There is no possible way to prove it other than chemical analysis, especially given how many times they have changed their own paint formulation, with the resulting slight shade changes.

Lol, I love the idea that every time someone cracks open their miniature case, the store manager cracks open his spectroscope...

"This blue is two shades too light... THIS ISN'T SOTEK GREEN!!! You are BANISHED, sir! Never darken our halls with your slightly too light paint jobs EVAR AGAAAAIN!!!"

"Just wait while I grind your model into powder and put it through this machine here...

What do you mean you didn't make extra sample models for testing when you painted the rest of your army?"

::Slinks back into dark cave::

 Lathe Biosas wrote:
The reason I ask, is that I've been playing with various black colors and I can't seem to get anything under the GW citadel range to look like black metal.... not just black plastic.

DID SOMEBODY SAY BLACK METAL?


EDIT:
But seriously, for a black metal look, just use a dark silver metallic, go over it with Citadel Black Templar Contrast paint, and then edge highlight with a silver.

:: pokes nose out of cave::


Prime the model in a bolt gun like silver color?

I'm trying to do the armor plates for an army of Knights that rock black, red stripes, and silver accents.

Scale 75 literally have a paint called Black Metal

Crispy78 wrote:
Scale 75 literally have a paint called Black Metal

Is it a primer? Or do you prime the model a different color?

It's a regular acrylic, you'll need to prime under it. Probably black!

Black on black, I like it.

Let's talk about priming while you're here.

You can just about get paint to stick to GW plastic without primer. But you'll have a better, more durable finish if you prime first.

If, as you say, you don't have an airbrush then you'll probably be using rattle cans. There are primers you can brush on - not sure they give as good a finish though and will probably take a lot longer. I'd say only brush on primer if you have reasons why you can't use a spray can - lack of outdoor space etc. You don't want to be spraying them just in the corner of your lounge or something.

GW do sell sprays, there is some debate as to whether they're a 'proper' primer or not but they work. You may be able to find cheaper or better or both elsewhere though, same as everything else GW make.

Regarding primer colour, there have been trends over the years for priming white, priming black, priming in the main colour of your models, and now there's also things like zenithal or slapchop priming to consider.

White will help brighter colours stay brighter. Black is better for darker colours, and also helps fill in the inaccessible recesses of the model to just look like deep shadow, and it then matters a lot less if you can't get a brush to them! Priming in the main colour would be a great help if you're only looking for tabletop quality and are painting something largely a single colour, like most space marine chapters. A zenithal prime at its simplest is where you spray a darker colour upwards from below the model, and a lighter colour downwards from above the model, to replicate natural lighting. With thin coats of paint on top this will show through slightly and give you a natural highlight effect. Slapchop is for contrast-style paints - you prime black then drybrush grey and then white on top; so all the recesses of the model end up black, most of it is grey, and the raised surfaces are white. This again will show though when contrast paints are applied on top, giving you a deeper shading and highlighting effect quickly and easily.

 StudentOfEtherium wrote:
i've heard that if you're coming into the store to paint, they want you to use citadel paints, but if you're just playing, i don't think they could possibly tell the difference, at least without close inspection

Yeah, I was visiting my parents and had some time to kill so I had brought my minis/paint kit.

The guy said just paint with Citadel. Which was OK since half of the mini was in Citadel but the other was 3 or 4 different companies.
Funny thing was a couple people came up and asked me which paints I was using, which I had to quietly say were the 3 or 4 different companies.

Racerguy180 wrote:

 StudentOfEtherium wrote:
i've heard that if you're coming into the store to paint, they want you to use citadel paints, but if you're just playing, i don't think they could possibly tell the difference, at least without close inspection

Yeah, I was visiting my parents and had some time to kill so I had brought my minis/paint kit.

The guy said just paint with Citadel. Which was OK since half of the mini was in Citadel but the other was 3 or 4 different companies.
Funny thing was a couple people came up and asked me which paints I was using, which I had to quietly say were the 3 or 4 different companies.

I'm thinking of doing most of my painting at home...a home filled with dog fur [My mom told me she's getting me a dog for when I move to my new place]

 Lathe Biosas wrote:

Racerguy180 wrote:

 StudentOfEtherium wrote:
i've heard that if you're coming into the store to paint, they want you to use citadel paints, but if you're just playing, i don't think they could possibly tell the difference, at least without close inspection

Yeah, I was visiting my parents and had some time to kill so I had brought my minis/paint kit.

The guy said just paint with Citadel. Which was OK since half of the mini was in Citadel but the other was 3 or 4 different companies.
Funny thing was a couple people came up and asked me which paints I was using, which I had to quietly say were the 3 or 4 different companies.

I'm thinking of doing most of my painting at home...a home filled with dog fur [My mom told me she's getting me a dog for when I move to my new place]

Get a desk with a rolling top to cover things up when you're not painting.

When you are painting, keep a pair of tweezers handy.

You sound like you are coming from a place of experience.

Any other advice, since my mom is mire than likely going to get me a dog thats smarter than I am.

I know she likes the mini Australian Shepards.

If its a husky just give up on avoiding fur everywhere

Also? Just vacuum daily, or as needed depending on the breed.

When I’m sitting the Lovely Slobbery Idiot Nephloof, I’ll vacuum a couple of times a day, because Golden Retrievers shed like you wouldn’t believe.

It is a bit of a drag, but it helps keep that doggy smell building up. And if you leave the rogue floof for too long, it just becomes harder to clean up after.

Other than that? Keep your brushes in a box, so airborne Idiot Dust has a harder time getting them in the first place.

 Overread wrote:
If its a husky just give up on avoiding fur everywhere

I had an American Eskimo when I was younger. He was a white ball of fluff... who loved chasing lizards, and really dislike drywall... he wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed, but he was a cuddle buddy.

I just have to remember to put everything thing up high... I remember my dog when he was a puppy was essentially a white fluffy PacMan who chewed through everything on ground level.

 Lathe Biosas wrote:
You sound like you are coming from a place of experience.

Any other advice, since my mom is mire than likely going to get me a dog thats smarter than I am.

I know she likes the mini Australian Shepards.

Get the dog you want, not the one your mum wants to get you. And if you don't want a dog, don't get a dog.

I'm not a dog owner (I have 2 cats, they're plenty), but I've seen friends get one recently and the amount of daily effort it takes, and the amount it disrupts / takes over the house, really took me by surprise.

 Lathe Biosas wrote:
You sound like you are coming from a place of experience.

Any other advice, since my mom is mire than likely going to get me a dog thats smarter than I am.

I know she likes the mini Australian Shepards.

I have cats. Dogs, at least, don't generally take naps on your painting desk while paint and glue dries nearby.

IF YOU CAN, if you have space, the ideal is a separate room where pets are not allowed. A rolltop desk or other type of cover for stuff left to dry is adequate but not ideal. Having an air filtration system nearby is a nice bonus.

Since I have none of those (but want all of them), I just make do with tweezers. It's a nuisance... but not enough of one to justify getting rid of the cats.

I have a parrot; I don't have to worry about down on my models but I do have to worry about him trying to stealthily run off with my brushes and/or smaller models

 KidCthulhu wrote:
I have a parrot; I don't have to worry about down on my models but I do have to worry about him trying to stealthily run off with my brushes and/or smaller models

This is why I dislike Crows to this day. A long time ago a Crow took one of my Legos of the back porch and replaced it with a pink hair Barrett.

::shakes fist at sky::

Oh, by the way, what do you call a flock of only two Crows?