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Need an update on this monster!

SgtPunishment wrote:Need an update on this monster!

There's not very much to show these past few days. Mainly sharpening the corners and general cleaning of glue joints and seams.

I'm beginning to make the hinges and latches for the various hatches but aside from the tedium there's little visual progress.

Congrats on your promotion from Corporal,

Blackadder

The front right carapace corner just never looked right to me so it's being redone and some various views of he hatch hinges and a brand new top for the generator housings.

The one step forward and two back Blackadder

Looking cool. What are you using for your rivets?

Is it plastic rod cut, specialised rivets?

tallmantim wrote:Looking cool. What are you using for your rivets?

Is it plastic rod cut, specialised rivets?

I use Evergreen plastic rod from .020 to .060 inches thick cut in wafers from 0.25mm to 0.5mm thickness depending on location and Tamiya super thin plastic cement. (I hope these companies appreciate these endorsements). I put a smidgen of cement on the location of the rivet and pick up the rivet with the tip of a #11 Exacto blade and place it on the glue dot. You have plenty of time to push it around after you have a short row in place and even after a half hour you can pop the rivet off if you make a mistake which is so much better than using pins as I did on my Titan Hunter

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/210995.page

and Armorcast Baneblade

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/226278.page

At that time I hadn't discovered the Exacto trick which is easier and faster than drilling holes for pins.

The unsolicited Blackadder

Hi Blackadder.

I have the thin rod - do you do anything special (other than patience) to get the rivets the same thickness? Different sized rivets is OK for Ork vehicles, but not so good for Imperial.

Thanks

tallmantim wrote:Hi Blackadder.

I have the thin rod - do you do anything special (other than patience) to get the rivets the same thickness? Different sized rivets is OK for Ork vehicles, but not so good for Imperial.

Thanks

Practice! but seriously rivets that are too high can be filed down with a steel emery board found in most drugstores or ask your girlfriend if she has an old one you can have or use. Women have a lot of equipment we are not aware of to help them look their best. My daughter just the other day asked me to repair her hair straightener which looks like a clamp device that heats the hair and takes the natural curl out of it. What an ideal thing to mould thin plastic around a die and I didn't even know it existed.

Back to the rivets; the average human eye can discern a difference of 0.0001 of an inch in certain circumstances but a row of rivets I believe you could get away with 0.01 inch and no one will notice.

I don't think you'll hear, "Dude, like some of your rivets are 'way too high."

Blackadder

I never saw that titan hunter, how did you do the hinges.


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The_Blackadder wrote:...the average human eye can discern a difference of 0.0001 of an inch in certain circumstances but a row of rivets I believe you could get away with 0.01 inch and no one will notice.

Wow, that's 0.00254 millimeter! Where did you hear that?

jabbakahut wrote:I never saw that titan hunter, how did you do the hinges.


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The_Blackadder wrote:...the average human eye can discern a difference of 0.0001 of an inch in certain circumstances but a row of rivets I believe you could get away with 0.01 inch and no one will notice.

Wow, that's 0.00254 millimeter! Where did you hear that?

I can't lay my hands on the specific source right now but here's a similar verification:

http://math.ucr.edu/home/baez/physics/Quantum/see_a_photon.html

The keen eyed peerer, Blackadder

You depress me with your genius :-)

I really must get back to my own stuff one day!

5) What Are Microns?

A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That’s approx. .00003937 inches.

35 microns is about .00138“, (just over one-thousandth of an inch).

The lower limit of visibity to the human eye is about 4 microns.

Pollens range from about 30 to 50 microns

A white blood cell is about 25 microns


????What hinges????

I got tired of looking to buy fans for the upper cooling compartment. I managed to make a few after some trial and error so the last one I took some pictures of the process.

It took about 20 minutes to make the four after they're trimed and under the cover screen I believe they'll look fine.

Blackadder

By the time I made the fourth one I had become quite adept at making 12 bladed 9.5mm fans although I wouldn't like to make any more.

Blackadder

.

A rainy day with nothing to do for a change. and the result is a two inch by three inch labor intense bit of plastic.

Jabba, don't tell me the fans turn in the other direction.

Blackadder

Looks cool, get a model and compare for size recognition. (only looked at first page)

Theres a warhound at my local GW (manager`s), and that is REALLY DETAILED.

Can`t wait to see some paint.

jabbakahut wrote:I never saw that titan hunter, how did you do the hinges.

To which hinges are you referring???

The further misadventures of The Blackadder

"Fiddly work" or a slavish attention to detail; it's all the same when attempting to duplicate a Titan. The one person I have to satisfy is me and I am a hard taskmaster. The only changes I make or have made are those where I think the original design can be improved on. IMHO elsewhere and there are very few areas where improvements were deemed necessary I hoped to render as faithfully as I am capable the original work which in the main is superb.

Below is my completed interpretation of the engine and cooling compartment.

EB

Very nice detailing!

Indded. Your attention to detail is fascinating. Looking VERY nice

its a labour of love. I think in your commentary you forgot to mention the blood, sweat and eyeball tears that have gone into that detailing!!

s.j.mccartney wrote:its a labour of love. I think in your commentary you forgot to mention the blood, sweat and eyeball tears that have gone into that detailing!!

Actually I hate the d--ned thing and wish I'd never started the project. I'd been piddling along for a year and only the last month or so that I've worked on it in ernest thanks to the support I received on this thread.

I've not cut myself as yet that I can recall and my basement workshop is a cool 60°F year round ( I have a dehumidifier in the summer).

No tears, but a lot of anxiety at times trying to figure how to make something like those blasted fans. I just want to see the thing painted.

A week or two more with the detail. Detailing is fun but I get caught up in minutia. Right now I am working on the head. After thats done probably tomorrow I'll finish applying caps on the joints on the legs and toe joints and I should be ready to paint.

This new way of doing rivets is a lot better than the pins and more sizes are available. My local hobby store has some ideal etched brass mesh for the cooling cowl but it's rather expensive. Anyone have any ideas on where I can get some reasonable etched sheets??

blackadder


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Note the clutter on my worktable.



Awright so I ain't neat

Blackadder

Try some mesh from a car body repair shop, for use with Fibre Glass, they can do some nice stuff.

Other option is B&Q, they sometimes does some nice decorative brass stuff.

I have both nylon and aluminium fly wire/screening that would I think work well for what you want. Both available for nearly nicks at a hardware store.

You can see some of the nylon one on the picture below (a nurgling base my 9 YO daughter made).



The mesh one is about the same gauge but has individual weaved strands and holds shape when bent etc.

Well your amazing with details! Those fans blow me away (pardon the pun...)

Keep it up, it's inspireing..

Azmo

While I was installing the renforcement plates on the neck cowl I found I had a problem with the right side of the carapace where it joined the hull. Seems the angle was wrong and the more detail I added the more apparent it became. So I hacked the offending desecration off and rebuilt that section. Now you know why it's taking me forever to make any progress on this beastie.

One step forward and two steps back,

Blackadder




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Thanks for all the help but I think I'll just bite the bullet and go for the gold er I mean brass.

http://www.hobbymasters.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4092

EB

Its really taken shape though. Keep slogging away.

Hard to believe a week went by with so little to show for it. Pigment aficionadoes will be happy to note that I have begun painting by applying a coat of grey primer to the engine compartment. The head is coming along very well after I bit the bullet and with a good deal of trepidation drilled recesses for the "headlights, parking lights and directional signals" for want of better terms.

The hood and cheek vents look about done and the edging for the head armor will be installed tomorrow.

For those interested, thanks for the support.

Blackadder

That looks fantastic! I love the squares on the cheeks, are they an addition? Overall it'll be fantastic. Great work

s.j.mccartney wrote:That looks fantastic! I love the squares on the cheeks, are they an addition? Overall it'll be fantastic. Great work

Thanks, the squares (vents? whatever) see below are on the original production Warhound. They will be embellished with the obligatory skulls etc as will 50% if the flat surfaces on this model.

More detailing to come,

Blackadder

Your attention to details have already made me add more to my Warhound, and keep getting this feeling compelling me to do a bit more...

Made a new weapon for my Warhound , also... Needed a "destroyer" weapon to handle Red Skulls Stompa.

Positively love your plasticard Warhound!

Azmo