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Hi

Am considering using a transfer on one of the panels next to the sarcophagus on my ven. dread. Have used the highly detailed panel on the dreads right side, but none of the leftys really appeal so have gone with the plain one. Was only gonn ause one of the small lightning bolt tranfers off the tac squad sheets but was a bit wary as i've read they are a bit shiny when applied. Just wondering if anyone has any tips for improving the effect. don't really wanna go out and buy anything special so just looking for some advice to get a decent look.

Just varnish the model afterward and it'll blend in.

I had great results using some information I found here in the P&M forum:

1. apply a gloss varnish to the area that's going to get the transfer.
2. slide the transfer on like you normally would
3. apply a transfer softening chemical like Walthers Solvaset (that's what I have)
4. apply a gloss varnish once completely dry
5. use a matte spray varnish to eliminate excessive shine


The Solvaset is available at hobby stores and is a one-step application. There's a similar product, Micro-Solve that's matched with Micro-Set, but I was advised the Solvaset does the same thing as both of those. Dunno if it's true, but it works good for me. Some folks have described issues where applying matte spray over gloss varnish causes a frosting effect to occur, obsuring the transfer. There's an article somewhere on dakka regarding it and provides a solution, but it might take some digging to find.

Further to my original question, i have to ask if painting over a spoilt transfer works? Lol :-) I tried it out last night and it worked pretty well, but whilst i was roughing up its edges a went a bit too far and ruined the look of it. Can i paint over it and reapply a fresh transfer?

Ummm.... ouch. I would go with no on the paintover, you're going to end up with a lump. Do you have an X-Acto? It's time to get REALLY careful.

Gavin Thorne wrote:I had great results using some information I found here in the P&M forum:

1. apply a gloss varnish to the area that's going to get the transfer.
2. slide the transfer on like you normally would
3. apply a transfer softening chemical like Walthers Solvaset (that's what I have)
4. apply a gloss varnish once completely dry
5. use a matte spray varnish to eliminate excessive shine

i had the same problem and found a solution similar to the above online and tried it recently with a fig (all except for the second coat of varnish which the hobby site i went to didn't list as a step). for my next fig, i'll probably try adding that step as i don't think the final product ended up at the level i wanted although it did help compared to not using it. mind you, the comparison isn't too fair as the land raider has a flat surface while the cloak was very "bumpy" and difficult to get the decal to properly adhere to.

with gloss underneath decal and then matte finish after decal:



just blood red paint with decal and then matte finish:

I'm noticing some silvering in the examples posted by warboss that suggest improper adhesion. Properly softened and set, the clear backing of the decal shouldn't be visible, except by its gloss.

I use an all-in-one product by Badger that did the trick just fine - wet the area while soaking the decal in water, slide on and gently burnish down with a wet brush, dry, then apply and burnish with solvent to remove any slight creases that lingered after the initial application. Varnishing afterward gives an even finish to the whole model and the decal disappears, as if the design were painted on.

oadie wrote:I'm noticing some silvering in the examples posted by warboss that suggest improper adhesion. Properly softened and set, the clear backing of the decal shouldn't be visible, except by its gloss.

I use an all-in-one product by Badger that did the trick just fine - wet the area while soaking the decal in water, slide on and gently burnish down with a wet brush, dry, then apply and burnish with solvent to remove any slight creases that lingered after the initial application. Varnishing afterward gives an even finish to the whole model and the decal disappears, as if the design were painted on.

This is my experience exactly. Here's my Crimson Fists sergeant with a decals from the AoBR set:




This was my second time using a waterslide in 20+ years and I simply followed the steps I listed above and you can't even tell it's a decal. The first time was a necron transfer on the back of a destroyer and there were serious adhesion issues - it eventually came off completely - but I didn't prepare the area with gloss varnish and didn't use a solvent. The Solvaset that I use is amazing and really helps the decals conform to rounded areas.

I know you said you don't want to buy anything special, but micro set, and micro solvent are your best friends when it comes to decals. and they only run about $3 each.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=FINPROD (first 2 products in this link) these properly set decals and the clear background on them. you can also use them on non-flat surfaces with these. i have a mini with decals on his loin cloth and cape that both look like they were painted =)

However. if you don't want to buy these. i have heard that vinegar has similar effects. and micro-set pretty much smells like vinegar soo...
Also i generally Gloss clear my models, put the transfers on, then flat clear over that. just for the added protection of two clear coats =D

Silvering is 0often caused by attaching the decal to an insufficiently glossy surface.

It maddeningly happens occassionally because the decals are poop.

Microset = white vinegar if you have any in the kitchen as Jake says.

The way I do it is first painting the surface under with gloss varnish ('ard coat). Then apply the transfer and seal it with 'ard coat. Afterwards I spray everything with purity seal. Then I go on and apply washes etc on the model. Finally I spray with dull coat and the decal really blends in. the drawback is that you need to be careful not to mess up when applying the decal in such an early stage. Attached is an example what the final result looks like, although this tanks is quite heavily weathered.

To quote Mr. Punch, "That's the way to do it!"

I personally like to practice freehanding until i get it right, it can be fiddly and annoying but it will improve your brush control and make you a better painter.

Thanks for all the help, guys. Might try the vinegar as a stop gap though you've inspired me to look into transfers more - i may well invest in the microset stuff! Gotta teach myself to be a more patient painter now.....