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I'm having a problem with my brushes, they keep splitting at the tip! I have read numerous brush tutorials and I don't do anything that should cause this. At first I used GW brushes and I just assumed they were bad quality as my standard brush died after 4 models but now my Series 7 brush has done the same thing, in even less time. As soon as I finish painting I clean my brushes in 3 in 1 cleaner, preserver and restorer until they're spotless, I store them in their plastic tubes with the tip up and I'm very careful when painting but the tip never stays "sharp" like it should. After a few strokes the tip will split into two "spikes" which makes painting a chore and it's my number 1 annoyance with this hobby. If I wet the brush I can make a nice point, but after a few seconds of painting it'll split again.
Whenever I watch a video on Youtube the painters brush is always perfect and I want that, and I thought I would have that buying the best brush possible and cleaning it properly but apparently not.
I don't let the brush sit in water, I don't leave it on its tip and I don't let the paint soak into the ferrule.
The question isn't why do I kill. The question is, why I don't kill everybody.
What I do to keep my brush sharp is something I picked up from my boyfriend. He licks the tip of the brush after painting or before applying new paint to it and it actually helps. I bought a cheapy brush a few months ago, used this slightly disgusting technique on it and it's still pointy and fine.
Try storing the brush tip down. This is only possible with if you have kept the plastic sheath (otherwise the bristles would be mashed up).
By storing the bristles tip up, water from your painting session is sinking down into the ferrule, loosening the glue.
Also do you leave soap on the brush after you have cleaned it? I leave my bristles covered in masters brush cleaner, making sure I form a fine tip before I put it away.
Secondly I know that with synthetic, or part synthetic brushes, running them under warm water with a little soap will tease the bristles back into shape. However I am unsure if this is appropriate treatment for Kolinsky sable.
Oddly enough I do something similar to what Kimzi recommended. one day I started painting and forgot to get a cup of water, instead of getting up I licked my finger and wiped my brush off like that. The saliva does a good job of breaking the paint up and keeps my brushes sharp, dunno how or why it works, but it does.
"War is not violence and killing, pure and simple; war is controlled violence, for a purpose. The purpose of war is to support your government's decisions by force. The purpose is never to kill the enemy just to be killing him but to make him do what you want him to do. Not killing... but controlled and purposeful violence."
I have been storing them bristles up, but I will try storing them bristles down with the plastic covers on them.
As for the soap, I usually leave it on overnight and then wash it off in the morning, should I just leave it on until my next painting session, even if that is days/weeks away?
This is my biggest issue with painting and it really saps the fun out of the hobby for me, I just want a brush that can hold a point damn it!
The question isn't why do I kill. The question is, why I don't kill everybody.
2011/08/21 08:11:30
Subject: Re:No matter what I do, my brushes split.
My series 7 has been splitting a lot on me lately too. But I don't clean my brushes in anything. Maybe I should. Don't know if I'd do the licking thing though.
When you buy a brush, the bristles should already have some kind of protective wax/soap in them that is washes off when you start to use them so storing them for weeks in soap shouldn't do any damage (if I am wrong I'm sure I will get corrected soon enough).
I'd advise to leave the soap in. It will harden, but will slip off when you dip your brush in water before you start painting.
Let us know if any of this works.
If you find that the brush does not respond to this treatment and you need to buy a new set have a look at buying a synthetic / real hair blend. They are much easier to clean, a bit more robust and will be easier to reform if this problem happens again.
Personally I wouldn't leave the soap on the brush. Depending on the soap you're using (i'm not familiar with the 3 in 1) the soap can actually damage the brush/the binding in the ferrule. I use linseed oil personally, it lifts everything right off the brush, conditions it, and doesn't have anything potentially harmful to the fibers. It also works to reshape the bristles. I wash it off after thoroughly rubbing it in.
Also, seconding/thirding the saliva technique.
CoALabaer wrote: Wargamers hate two things: the state of the game and change.
2011/08/21 08:23:01
Subject: Re:No matter what I do, my brushes split.
Well thats a problem I've never faced? I have always sucked the residual paint off the tip of my brushes while I'm painting and only rinse them in water when the paint gets to clagged on the bristles and when I'm changing colours. The smaller amount of paint in your mouth really doesn't harm you as I've done this for over twenty years and I'm still fit and healthy ha ha. I think the saliva is probably the key here. Finally I store my brushes on their sides and never use covers as these can keep moisture trapped on the bristles which breaks down the glue at the base inside the ferrule. So give the brush a lick after your final rinse out and store it flat with no cover on.
If this doesn't sort it out then all I can think is, your brushes are possessed, or your brushes hate you? Ha ha. Good luck.
NB never lick your brush if you use oil based paint as that will poison you. Only do this with acrylic paints.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/08/21 08:25:22
Now that I think about it, it's pretty logical that licking the brush works to keep it nice. A brush is made out of hair, and when an animal washes itself it licks the hair. If it works for them it should work for a brush.
We humans just overcomplicate things with soaps and shampoos and scary chemicals.
Amazing range of brushes, and top synthetic / real hair blend. I'm ordering a set from them when my second tier brushes run out.
Very cheap for the quality.
LilLoser
Edit: Licking is great for forming a sharp tip when painting, but if the brush has split like the OP is suggesting, I doubt that this will work to reform it, now matter how vigorously and enthusiastically you do it. Also, licking paint out of a brush is great when it is wet, but you will always miss flecks that you cannot see. When paint dries in a brush I think it would be impossible to lick it out (the force of your lick would probably lift a few hairs out, like an animal licking dirty/ dead hairs from its skin).
Hooray for nasty chemicals (like linseed oil, turps and soap) to help us keep our brushes for longer!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/08/21 08:43:50
Amazing range of brushes, and top synthetic / real hair blend. I'm ordering a set from them when my second tier brushes run out.
Very cheap for the quality.
Have you (or anyone else) used the 401 range? They're a blend of sable and synthetic hair, they're super cheap also, especially with free shipping. Which would be better, these or Army Painter?
Windsor & Newton synthetic brushes, Medea airbrush cleaner (non-toxic and solvent free, can use indoors), occasionally treat them to some white spirit and acetone, store them sideways with protectors. No problems here.
Howard A Treesong wrote:I can't see what you can be doing wrong, hairs usually spread because paint goes down into the ferrule.
Licking the brush is probably a bad habit I'm trying to get out of because I don't really want even trace amounts of paint/chemicals in my mouth.
One thing is the Series 7 miniatures have really short bristles, so maybe that's the problem? I will order a brush or two today, but I'm not sure if I should go for AP Regiment or one of those Rosemary ones, maybe #1 or #2?
The question isn't why do I kill. The question is, why I don't kill everybody.
Kimzi Caky wrote:What I do to keep my brush sharp is something I picked up from my boyfriend. He licks the tip of the brush after painting or before applying new paint to it and it actually helps. I bought a cheapy brush a few months ago, used this slightly disgusting technique on it and it's still pointy and fine.
This ^^^^ is discusting but it works. I tried this because my brushes either curled or split, now its a constant habbit, although it has a down side:
You sometimes forget to wash the paint off the brush before you use it! (Worst mistake ever, and trust me; j
Spoiler:
DEVLAN MUD TASTES WORSE THAN IT SMELLS!!!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/08/21 10:12:15
Did that ^ once, doesn't taste great I must admit... but I always have a drink handy to wash it down just in case XD and I have yet to make the infamous drink-water pot mistake, so that works for me
And yeah, keeping a point is incredibly simple.. just lick the brush I managed to 'mess up' one of my brushes by shifting things on my desk a bit, the bristles went all funky... licked it, poked it a bit, it's back to normal and works perfectly now
2011/08/21 10:50:20
Subject: Re:No matter what I do, my brushes split.
starsdawn wrote:Do you let the paint reach the part where the bristles meets the handle? Never do that, if ever.
Nope.
I'm really not sure which brushes to buy today, really need some advice guys. Rosemary and Co series 401 (sable/synthetic blend), Rosemary and Co series 33 (pure kolinksy) or the Army Painter Regiment brush? I just want something that will hold a strong point and not drive me up the wall.
The question isn't why do I kill. The question is, why I don't kill everybody.
Have you (or anyone else) used the 401 range? They're a blend of sable and synthetic hair, they're super cheap also, especially with free shipping. Which would be better, these or Army Painter?
I use both some of the 401 range and series 7 mini's, and a R&CO series 92 10/0 which is short like a Series 7 mini 000.
Overall my Series 7 keep their shape a little better, but for some stuff the 401's are easier due to them holding more paint.
Have you tried dipping them quickly for a few seconds in boiling water and then reshaping them, this works for me.
Have you (or anyone else) used the 401 range? They're a blend of sable and synthetic hair, they're super cheap also, especially with free shipping. Which would be better, these or Army Painter?
I use both some of the 401 range and series 7 mini's, and a R&CO series 92 10/0 which is short like a Series 7 mini 000.
Overall my Series 7 keep their shape a little better, but for some stuff the 401's are easier due to them holding more paint.
Have you tried dipping them quickly for a few seconds in boiling water and then reshaping them, this works for me.
I haven't tried boiling water, no. And yeah, painting drying on the brush is a big problem for me.
The question isn't why do I kill. The question is, why I don't kill everybody.
2011/08/21 12:08:08
Subject: Re:No matter what I do, my brushes split.
starsdawn wrote:Do you let the paint reach the part where the bristles meets the handle? Never do that, if ever.
Some other reasons why they might split.
Do you dip the brush in the paint pot or use some sort of a pallet, wet or otherwise? Asking because if you dip most likely at some point you will dip deeply and get to much paint on your brush, and it will get into the feral. Its very hard to get it all out once it gets in there, and will cause your brush tip to split. In most cases brushes get ruined by this or being stored upside down on the hairs.
You only want a little paint on the very tip of your brush. Don't try to add to much paint to the brush, trying to get better coverage. This can also make the brush loose shape as the paint dries inside the tip. This can happen pretty fast depending on the climate and temperature. Then the paint will continue to dry to the old paint and eventually the hairs will split.
You don't ever put the brush down on its side with paint on it do you? Even if left for just a few minutes it could suck the paint into the feral.
How hard do you press the brush against the surface you are painting? Some people press the brush into deep details trying to get the paint in there, or in between arms and such. Pressing to hard can damage the hairs. An example would be starting a stroke into an armpit causing the brush hairs to separate.. Rather then from the waist of a miniature to it armpit so the brush hairs stay together.
Just some ideas. Seems odd all the brushes are failing you. The best bet is to really watch what is happening to the tip of your brush when you paint. If at anytime the tip separates as you use it, or you have to much paint on your brush, you may have found your problem.
2011/08/21 12:19:18
Subject: Re:No matter what I do, my brushes split.
starsdawn wrote:Do you let the paint reach the part where the bristles meets the handle? Never do that, if ever.
Some other reasons why they might split.
Do you dip the brush in the paint pot or use some sort of a pallet, wet or otherwise? Asking because if you dip most likely at some point you will dip deeply and get to much paint on your brush, and it will get into the feral. Its very hard to get it all out once it gets in there, and will cause your brush tip to split. In most cases brushes get ruined by this or being stored upside down on the hairs.
You only want a little paint on the very tip of your brush. Don't try to add to much paint to the brush, trying to get better coverage. This can also make the brush loose shape as the paint dries inside the tip. This can happen pretty fast depending on the climate and temperature. Then the paint will continue to dry to the old paint and eventually the hairs will split.
You don't ever put the brush down on its side with paint on it do you? Even if left for just a few minutes it could suck the paint into the feral.
How hard do you press the brush against the surface you are painting? Some people press the brush into deep details trying to get the paint in there, or in between arms and such. Pressing to hard can damage the hairs. An example would be starting a stroke into an armpit causing the brush hairs to separate.. Rather then from the waist of a miniature to it armpit so the brush hairs stay together.
Just some ideas. Seems odd all the brushes are failing you. The best bet is to really watch what is happening to the tip of your brush when you paint. If at anytime the tip separates as you use it, or you have to much paint on your brush, you may have found your problem.
I use one of my many cheapo brushes to extract the paint from the pot to put onto the palette.
Nope.
Very lightly.
I just don't get it, as far as I can tell I'm doing everything right and this shouldn't be happening to me.
The question isn't why do I kill. The question is, why I don't kill everybody.
2011/08/21 14:20:57
Subject: Re:No matter what I do, my brushes split.
Never, never, never, never....wash your natural fiber brush in hot water. In nicer brushes the fibers are held in place in the ferrel by wax, hot water will melt the wax and exacerbate the problem. I think there may have been a bad batch of Series 7 that went out lately, I order a couple a few weeks ago and they arrived to me split. Most of the time what causes splitting is paint drying in the ferrel, or the brush is rather old and has lost several hairs and can no longer hold it's shape. The problem with the Series 7, as good as they are, is they have very short bristles, and no matter how careful you are, paint will get in the ferrel. If you are still looking for a brush I would strongly recommend Raphael Brushes, they have a much longer bristle and hold paint much better and longer than the Series 7.
Unless anyone can give me a good reason not to I think I will just order some of those Rosemary and Co series 401 as they're cheap and get some good reviews.
The question isn't why do I kill. The question is, why I don't kill everybody.
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