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Final Verdict - After several attempts at using this product, I can safely say it works amazingly. The pain has been stripped down to the most stubborn of basecoat and even that left has been thinned and the detail whilst not lost, is also still very crisp with no damage what so ever. The stripper works even better once a toothbrush is used to remove the paint and makes the work far easier. When washing your models and removing the paint, I do recommend doing one model at a time, leaving the others in the solution so that it isn't washed awat, which seemed to lower the effectivness after minis had been left in warm water for twenty minutes after being taken out of the solution.
Biostrip worked on plastic, resin, tansfers and even better on metal, so everything you own can be striped without worry. The only downside (Which wasn't for me) was that after 24 hours in the solution, the plastic glue was weakened considerably, meaning that any painstakingly converted models should avoid the yoghurt bath for prolonged periods of time if you plan on stripping them. Best to do them in fifteen minute slots with a very very soft brush.

Overall, fantastic value for money for how easy it makes stripping.

So for my newest project I decided to go and create a Pokemarines chapter, in all of the anime glory. I dug out some old miniatures, and the problem of needing to strip came about and after several searches on here and google, I found that each method suggested people had experienced varius levels of success, leaving me a little unsure of any of them. Then I stumbled across Biostrip and all the reviews and tutorials gave it glowing reviews. So, I bit the bullet, ordered a tub and have just (As in, five minutes ago) dumped some models into it and decided to record my experience with it for all those like me, who have no idea about stripping.



The tub is huge for the 7.99 I paid for it, containing 500ml of white, creamy and almost odourless liquid.


I then selected several marines, a flamer, captain, missile launcher and two very heavily base coated legs for maximum testing value and plopped them into a container. It was then as simple as grabbing a spooning and scooping the mixture onto the miniatures. I then gave them a quick stir in the tub to make sure they were completely covered.


Pop on the lid and wait...


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After twenty minutes, my fingers were beginning to twitch and my weakness got the better of me, i was impatient and had to go and check the miniatures. What I found were some still very red models when lifted out of the tub but some very obvious magic done to the paint which had creased under the white goo.


Then came the moment I was so excited for. Dunking the model into the water, I began to rub off the now loosened paint. The only downfall of this part, was that I didn't have a toothbrush spare (The boos swore she hadn't moved it... but she does things like that) so I was stuck with a tank brush, which still worked wonders! The picture below is just after dunking the mini and swirling it about a little.


But even without a toothbrush, the metal body on my captain was almost perfect within seconds of the brush being drawn over it.


So for this update, Biostrip20 gets a massive thumbs up so far! Next batch will be the same amount of time and removing the paint with a toothbrush and I can only see this getting better and better with the right amount of time and the right brush

I've seen a few things around Dakka that mention using Biostrip20 for stripping. It would appear that it works quite well.

Yeah, it's what I've heard. Going to get them out in a few minutes and then I'll know for sure. Got to see if the liquid I have already used can be re-used too, then it will make it even better!

I saw this on a few stalls at Salute! How was it? Did it work? I still use Fairy Power Spray for plastics and MEK for pewter.

It worked really well, just about to update the post. I left the models in there for about twenty minutes, ten minutes less than suggested and most of the paint came off very easily. The only downfall was myself, as I didn't have a toothbrush to scrub the models with and had to use a large tank brush to remove the paint. I think with a toothbrush, it would be perfect.

Updated the first page with a final verdict.

After a toothbrush was involved, the paint stripped even easier and did a whole lot more than it already had. The plastic glue lost it's strength and on some models, they came apart during the scrubbing process. A really really good product!!

I think that stuff then has a better use than stripping paint.
If it somehow loosens the bond of plastic glue, this stuff is worth its weight in gold!

Haha, very true! I'll give it a go tomorrow. I'm sure I can find something very glued and see how long it takes to weaken it. I have several kinds as well, so maybe I'll do different brands to compare!

Sounds good to me.
Lost count of the times ive got something through ebay and parts are always glued on the wrong way with plastic glue.

Then if it will benefit someone, I'll do it! If I find an easy way to strip glue, then I want my own title! Saviour of Ebay models, or something along those lines.

Ill hand over that title without question haha.

Countless ebay massacres have resulted in stanley blades jammed into my fingers too many times to count, so a way of preventing that could be nice!

Although, GW does that anyway.
The plastic glue they sell crystallizes instead of bonding, so a stiff breeze takes it apart.

Yeah, I thik this was GW glue, so it may have helped it break apart. But Army Painter, Revelle ect would be in there too for direct comparison. I hope this works now, I want to go down as a legend.