@Damo, it's actually a decent little paitning game. Bob progresses on the painting every turn, you have to collect all the right Art Supply cards, and complete that portion of the painting before Bob does. And everyone knows he can paint an entire painting in a 1/2 hour!
Automatically Appended Next Post: I had to dive right in on Dale's RV It's made for Mantic by Sarissa Precision in the UK. The inner frame is MDF, and then they laser-cut thick cardboard for the soft skin.
It's not exactly like Dale's TV show Winnebago, but remember, it's the comic version.
I find the wheel method pretty brilliant
And you can see it looks great after a good sanding
Automatically Appended Next Post: The Game Rules are you have to use ladders to traverse up and down. I wanted a way for Dale to get his Lawnchair and Umbrella up there. You also have to use the doors to enter/Exit things to search and loot.
@Theo- Thanks- I cannot wait that long to find out what happens in either TWD or GoT- all other shows can wait
@Dr. H - Thanks! - I see someone makes an actual MDF kit of TV Dale's Winnebago
@Vik - I grew up watching him every saturday afternoon on PBS, And he has really gained a LOT of new viewers since they now stream him on Twitch. They always say dead artists are always more popular than living ones. But yes, his positivity and calming demeanor is something you never forget. Went to the beach huh? That sounds fun.
Heh, I've been looking at 1:43 (O Scale) cars, almost pulled the trigger on a plain white Kenworth Box Truck, it could be the objective of a mission, steal the truck and drive off the map! How much different would 1:48 be to 1:43?
Heh, I've been looking at 1:43 (O Scale) cars, almost pulled the trigger on a plain white Kenworth Box Truck, it could be the objective of a mission, steal the truck and drive off the map! How much different would 1:48 be to 1:43?
While I've used o scale plastruct stairs on figs and it looks great, I think 1/43 is the wrong direction to go. I picked up some 1/53 scale cars for $5-6 each from dollar general or local grocery chain Schnucks. Not only are they a great scale to the figs, they have pullback action . Also there's a bunch of die cast trucks in the 1:50 or 1:53 scale that I think would work. It's a huge chunk of table space for the models as a freight bed trailer (53') would be 1' on the table.
I am with Theo, the O gauge stuff is not bad, but things like doors give it away as too big. The 1:48 through 1:53 stuff is cheap and looks much more to scale against most 28mm stuff.
@Theo, I too, am a bit obsessed with miniature forklifts I found this just last night, using the cheap pull-back cars found in CVS
Although, these cars are a bit too nice for the Zombie Apocalypse. You expect to see lots of older, nondescript sedans, probably because that is the kind of cars they use in the TV show as props.
@Cam, I like the Bendy Bus idea, but they are rarely seen outside of an Airport or large City Setting, not that an airport Zombie fight doesnt sound like an amazing game I can fix things like doors on buildings for scale no problem, but cars, especially die-cast, are a bit more difficult. The plastic cars and trucks that come with the terrain set, are about perfect, 4 inches x 2 inches for a pickup truck
Exactly Whale! What kid wants to play with a toy of a 1998 Ford Taurus? Adults dont even want a 1:1 model
It looks like at least one German modeler found a few average-looking cars
http://www.chaosbunker.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/TWD_SBCars4.jpg" border="0" />
I hate how pinterest has no mechanism for finding the original source site
This guy found some at his hardware store http://gamingandshooting.blogspot.com/2016/11/the-walking-dead-all-out-war.html believe it or not, I've seen most of these pullback cars at my local Grocery Store, I'll have to give them another look. I have a mail van I bought somewhere
guys... you know the key holder lego minis? get yourself one and carry it with you 24/7 ... thus while shopping you have a neat scale reference with you at all times
It's roughly the same scale, well size, but of course extremities and so on are of course not same scale as heroic scale of 40k...but it's easy, portable....any 40k mini would take a beating if you'd carry it in your trouser pocket for too lon G...even the metal ones...
That's not a bad idea Vik! They are fairly close, as far as height.
Got some paint on the scenery set- big fan of this set for ANY wargame
I had to paint this pick-up like the first vehicle I ever owned, a 1980 Chevy Silverado in two-tone brown and beige - Rust, an integral part of ALL General Motors vehicles, will come later The trucks are an amalgamation of Ford and Chevy full-size pick-up trucks from 1976-1986, no descript markings, but the body panels fit.
Thanks Scarper, yeah, I have a lot of work to do still, This is how they look this morning after I wasjed the panel lines in dark grey last night. I have a lot of cleanup to do, and figure out how to paint the windows to look like they have been sitting in weather and zombie dirt for a few years. They are actually not a kit at all, just a single injection-molded piece with a hollow bottom. Well-designed.
Heh, I've been looking at 1:43 (O Scale) cars, almost pulled the trigger on a plain white Kenworth Box Truck, it could be the objective of a mission, steal the truck and drive off the map! How much different would 1:48 be to 1:43?
1:43 is a common scale for cas and 1:48 is a common scale for trucks. Not sure why this is, but they both work well. 1:43 is of course too big, but when you take into account the thicker proportions of gaming figs and the 3 mm of base that most have, it's actually pretty close. It's also cheap and plentiful.
Depending on the model, a 1:43 truck could look pretty huge, but it depends on the model. Luckly 1:48 trucks are not hard to find.
Note the white Ford Transit Connect van 5 posts above by Theopony. It is Is technically much to big for the figures. I have that model and I think it's 1:36. I also drive an actual transit connect. However, because it has the look of a larger truck it actually works quite well visually and it's size might even work better for wargaming that a properly scaled, longer, full size Transit Van.This is that kind of judgement you have to make for die cast.
They're bulk cars are marked as 1:48 but probably range from 1:48 to 1:43 depending on model. If you have a Menards nearby they often have a big table/bin covered with boxes of individual cars (the ones that are sold in bulk online) for 3 bucks each.
A quick note about the ones from drug-stores (usually from the brand kinsmart and sold with no packaging) They are often 1:32 or 1:40 and often look too big. The modern pickup trucks are usually close to 1:48 but the cars and vintage pickups are huge.
Here's a drug-store Kinsmart Chevy pickup I repainted. It's pretty common. Unfortunately as seen next to the 28mm Grenadier fig it's way too big at around 1:32. I love the look but ended up selling it due to scale.
Wow Eilif!, that is some great hobby work! I love the Mad Max game, too! I'm definitely going to check out the rest of your site! Thanks for all the great info too! I do have a few Menards here. And I agree with you about the funny scale for 28mm however, the Walking Dead game is more 30-(35mm for big guys like Abraham) scale, Even larger than Heroic, so the larger vehicles will work just fine
Rick, Abraham, and a Praetorian, and you know the Foundry-type pulp figs are closer to heroic 28mm
Automatically Appended Next Post:
Automatically Appended Next Post: I think I'm pretty much happy with the base paint jobs
Now for the fun part
Nice work on the trucks. Finding vehicles in the right scale is a challenge. Too much 1:43. It works with 35mm minis, but not the 28mm-32mm minis. Finding more futuristic vehicles is even more frustrating. I only know of one place that makes things that are meant for 28mm-32mm, Antenocitis
I find it amazing that Bob Ross is still so popular so long after his passing. I remember watching his show many years ago. (like 25 years ago.) It seems he has a cult following.
@red Thanks man! I'm gonna go shopping with a mini in my pocket at some point, meanwhile, I ordered a plain white Box truck from New Ray and Rick and Shane's Sherrif cruiser
Let there be rust!
@scarper- its different for different kinds of rust, here I wanted old, brown rust, so I based it in with typhus corrosion, then overall brown wash, then Vallejo dark rust wash in the insides to make the holes appear deeper, ten highlight around the bottoms and sometimes tops of the rust spots for that little 3D effect. I could keep going with weathering powders, but I had to move on
@joerugby thanks man! Woof, that's a lot of BS to wade through
Automatically Appended Next Post: @Eilif was right about the Kinsmart trucks, a bit large, but not too bad really. Here is Neegan in the bed of a 1956 Ford. It fits the BOX of 2x4" , but is a bit tall. I dont mind that.
The first thing I did was freeze up all of the axles and all those pull-back gears with thin CA. The last thing I want happening is it getting accidentally pulled back on the gaming table, knocking minis off the table (it's fast) I applied some liquid masking to the Peterbuilt and Ford badges, and they are all ready to prime
What's wrong with sorghum? I hear tell it makes your coat nice and shiny...(It's a Cheers reference.)
I swear the blue and white truck is a dead ringer for a truck a friend of mine drove when we were in high school... Including the rust spots There was a gun rack in it too... with a fishing pole in lieu of a gun.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Back to Eilif's great point about scales
This is TV Rick and Shane's Sherrif Cruiser, with a pull-back ambuance- these are PROPER for these minis
Now look at the Ford and the Peterbuilt
The Ford is WAY too big, the Peterbuilt Box Truck is perfectly scaled. I've always wanted to just build a rusted out Ford Diorama anyways
Sure, you could use any number of figures. Back to the cop car and ambulance- I'm torn. Part of me wants to tear them apart and re-paint, but part of me wants to preserve the already-excellent markings, which I will NOT be able to recreate to this quality level.
Ask yourself, "does it bother me that these look more like toys and not models?". If the answer is no, then don't worry about it and move on. If it is yes, get to paintin'!
dsteingass wrote: Sure, you could use any number of figures. Back to the cop car and ambulance- I'm torn. Part of me wants to tear them apart and re-paint, but part of me wants to preserve the already-excellent markings, which I will NOT be able to recreate to this quality level.
@champberlain that is a GREAT video! I love model RR techniques! Thanks for that!
There is another guy out there somewhere, that buys up larger scale die-cast and just makes them look like they are old rusty wrecks
I get bronchitis, walking pneumonia or full pneumonia every year for the last 17 years (since I got mononucleosis right before our wedding), that ruins your immune system.
oh man.. That sucks. I've never had mono, but growing up around farmland, every. single. time they harvested soybeans and the dust flew, I've had it every single year.
Get well soon. Just wait until you're old enough to get the nagging soft tissue injuries that take forever to heal.. :( Once you pass the big 40, your body's healing rate slows. It sucks.
Germans... geez. Only 6 weeks. You guys work too hard over there.
Automatically Appended Next Post: I can almost deal with the rattly chest and coughing snot out of my lungs with medication, but what I dont understand is how can my sinuses be so thoroughly clogged yet at the same time, my nose runs like a boat with a hole in it and I am sneezing like I have a legion of demons in my sinuses
Automatically Appended Next Post: I can almost deal with the rattly chest and coughing snot out of my lungs with medication, but what I dont understand is how can my sinuses be so thoroughly clogged yet at the same time, my nose runs like a boat with a hole in it and I am sneezing like I have a legion of demons in my sinuses
Papa Nurgle is making nurgle gas like crazy in your sinuses and that's the fun part. It's when you swallow all of that and the other effects kick in where things get REALLY messy.
press your index finger on your forehead, just above the nose...while doing so for thirty seconds press the tip of your tongue on the ceiling of your gum (?)...its some kind of acupressure and relieves the bloodswelling of your sinuses...trust me...
lol @Vik, I wish it was that simple. I broke my nose as a young lad, as a result, I have a bit of a deviated septum in my shnoz. I actually have to massage the bridge of my nose, where my glasses sit, it creates a wet cartilage sound like the ALIENS larvae bursting from someone's chest, but it works.
I honestly dont remember why I didnt or couldnt stop. I dont remember much from elementary School, but I do remember playing Red Rover on the playground and running so fast trying to break the other line's arms that I couldnt stop until my nose hit the brick. I also remember my Social Studies teacher lying to me, and kids were mean. Not much else.
For sinus problems, I 've been using something called SinusBuster. It's capsacin based. It works very well. And no nasty rebound effects like some of the other nasal decongestants out there.
I'm open to actually shoving hot pepper seeds up my damn nose if it works some days. I feel pretty good today, still have an open nostril. my chest and back muscles are so sore today from all the deep coughing though. I find myself quite irritable and cranky today, probably from the cocktail of drugs I've been taking.
dsteingass wrote: I honestly dont remember why I didnt or couldnt stop. I dont remember much from elementary School, but I do remember playing Red Rover on the playground and running so fast trying to break the other line's arms that I couldnt stop until my nose hit the brick. I also remember my Social Studies teacher lying to me, and kids were mean. Not much else.
In kindergarten I was swinging on the playground and the next thing I remember was waking up with flashing lights going by above me. I got hit with a rock and was knocked out in mid swing, fell off at the top of my arc and landed squarely on my noggin. Rushed by ambulance where my parents met me at the hospital.
In 6th grade I found out the rest of the story. One of the girls in my class had been held back a year (so she was a year older than me). When I was in kindergarten she was in first grade and thought I was cute. She threw the rock to get my attention as she was calling my name, but you realize a playground of 60 or so kids screaming I couldn't hear it. She must of had a good arm, because she hit me square and knocked me out.
That is a fantastic job, well done. Even with the Nurgling up your nostril you crank out a beauty like that!
I can see it is not quite finished, (lights etc to put on) may I be so bold as to make a couple suggestions. Tyres are too black, they could easily be new rubber, but think it would look a little better with blue/grey slightly faded tyres. And just because I am horrible, how about a "clean me" written in the dirt on the back door.
Pointing out the tyres feels sacrilegious for some reason, sorry.
Thanks Cam, yeah, I should hit the tires with some Panzer Aces dark rubber, however, this will all be weathering Powdered up, so it'll all be covered with old dirt and grime anyway. I experimented with blown out tires on one of the SUVs, we'll see how that works. Its harder to do with these smaller rubber tires without much in the way of sidewall material to dig out with a gouging tool. The truck had removable tires too, but big trucks tend to have intact tires unless they have been torn off in onion layers like you see along the highway. Even looking at pictures of old abandoned trucks, the tires are generally intact
@Shaz, thanks! I'm doing better, the coughs are infrequent now, just clearing the occasional crap out the lungs. Antibiotics: 1 Papa Nurgle: 0
Finally finding another set of good, vintage Pioneer Speakers, I've made an important addition to the workshop, the Bureau of Beer, Music, and Contemplation area
It's been almost 1 year!
@Jake - Yeah me too! I've been horrible about reading people's threads too, no worries man! I'm good!
@Vik- that is the 25th Anniversary reissue of Ice Cube's Death Certificate, his first solo album after he left NWA........the real problem here is that it's been 25 YEARS! and WE ARE OLD!!
@Theo, I've been looking for the perfect chair for here for quite awhile, finally saw this at a weird, ecclectic used furniture store yesterday and bought it immediately. It's very, very comfortable, makes you comfy while your back is upright and supported.
lol, whenever the old, white, and pseudo-religious in America try to villify, ban, or rally against something...anything...it has always made it that much more attractive to people. We were so isolated geographically here in the early 90s, and our News has always been selective, that the Gangsta Rap actually gave us NEWS that we didnt hear anywhere else about the militarization of the Police force in Central LA and in other cities, and how it affected people who were deliberately marginalized. Also, 3 corporations owned ALL of the radio stations, so all we ever heard was the same 13 or 14 Rock songs over, and over, and over again on the Radio.. People wanted something new. I still cant stand Lynrd Skynrd AT ALL, just because i think I've literally heard it more often than my own Mother's voice growing up.
Cube was one of the most outspoken at the time, and he made a point back then that still hasnt been answered "Our Communities have Crack Cocaine from South America and AK-47s From Russia, and none of us have Passports"
Automatically Appended Next Post: as for GIFs, I make these little loops of the dog all the time
Well being the oldest of us three at least (43 back in July) I feel it’s my place to wish you whipper snappers a happy birthday . I will make celebratory brownies on Sunday in Viks Honor.
I’d make a GIF of the cat we inherited from grandma, but unless it ran for a few hours there would be no movement.
Ugh, Doc, I'm so sorry. Tinnitus would drive me nuts. I know you get used to it, but it doesn't seem easy or fun. How else do you cope?
I like my music analog, Completely flat and balanced as mixed on the master, no EQ or other nonsense But of course, 1/3 of my music collection is old Jazz records. And Rudy VanGelder took many of his recording secrets to his grave with him. Technology will forgotten by time. Very 40K. He did things with 1950s equipment that many today still can't do.
dsteingass wrote: Ugh, Doc, I'm so sorry. Tinnitus would drive me nuts. I know you get used to it, but it doesn't seem easy or fun. How else do you cope?
It's not too bad. I've had it since I was about 20. Listening to portable music players (from before the time of AVLS) at full volume will do it. I like to feel my music...
If there's background noise that I can concentrate on, then I don't notice it. It's still there and I can hear it if I think about it. It's a constant, so I'm used to it being there.
The only major problem is when it's quiet, and I notice/remember it.
Doesn't keep me awake or anything. But there will never be any silence, or silent moments for me.
The main problem is the associated hearing loss. Especially in the mid-range (y'know where everyone's voice tends to be). Not to the point that I can claim to be deaf, but I often have to ask people to repeat things they say. Mild hearing loss, on top of mild tinnitus, on top of mild dyslexia... can mean I don't always catch what people say.
I like my music analog, Completely flat and balanced as mixed on the master, no EQ or other nonsense But of course, 1/3 of my music collection is old Jazz records. And Rudy VanGelder took many of his recording secrets to his grave with him. Technology will forgotten by time. Very 40K. He did things with 1950s equipment that many today still can't do.
Nowt wrong with any of that.
I've always tweaked my music. My first portable cassette player had EQ-like sliders on the front... I think they were Treble, Bass and More Bass. I liked my bass.
And I spent more time that I care to admit tweaking the EQ on my first Hi-Fi to get it to sound the way I liked.
Since I upgraded to 5.1, I've spent hours fiddling with those settings too.
But then, the bulk of my music is more on the electronic side of things (but I have broadened to encompass most genres):
Recent CD haul included, Goldfrapp, The Orb, Sub Focus, Queens of the Stone Age, and Placebo.
For example.
This 1986 Carver 900 Receiver I'm using down here has a stupid amount of power, like 160 Watts/channel max, so I don't dare use any old speakers with it. It'll bump when I want it
My BEST rig is upstairs though, with the main system
You young whippersnappers. got several years on the lot of you.
Happy Birthday just in case I manage to forget.
You see with my nice little derail last year I gained short term memory loss like an SOB, can't remember squat that happened 5 minutes ago. Oh and old age (47) has played another trick on me, noticed it over the last few months and recently had it medically confirmed, got a declining deafness in both inner ears, in particular I too struggle with speech, but for me the biggy is I can't hear bird song. I love music, of all kinds. I believe it is a mood thing, but have noticed I am missing bits now.
I personally believe that different genres have different equipment, Classical or Vangelis are best over a decent computer, the clarity is important, but there are whole decades that require a vinyl record. I am not quite so blessed as you Dave, but I am not far away. I am disgusted to admit I do not own a proper turntable any more.
Love the GIFs of Bean, awesome stuff,got to say though, did not expect to see those shoes, maybe outside, but in the den surely the purple carpet slippers!!!
Nearly 40, 43,43 and approaching 40. You kids... Wait 'til you hit the half century mark. Seriously, wait, as long as you can. It. Sucks.
Nice rig there, Dave, but you're missing a beer fridge. I've got my old Fischer speakers ( from the early '80's) on my main worktable. They are about 5' away on either side of me, and at ear-level, when I sit to paint. Still sound great. I rarely hook up my turntable though. I've found that making a digital recording of the LP and playing the wave file, or even an MP3*, through my laptop into a kenwood mini HiFi setup and then out to the speakers works very well. No equalizer either. I can't be bothered to fiddle with the darn things. I've often wondered if one of those external DACs would improve things... Of course, making that digital recording can be interesting...
That chair, it reminds me of a print ad for some sound system...
dsteingass wrote: @Doc that may be a blessing, Robins can be really loud and annoying in the mornings
Bah, just drown them out with loud music.
no, seriously, I'm sorry about that.
No worries. It's self inflicted so can't really complain. *shrugs*
Speaking of a new setup, do you have a go-to test tune to check that everything is working as expected?
I use The Chemical Brothers - Under the Influence.
It has a nice bass sweep that's good to find things that will resonate, and it has clear mids and delicate highs that are good to tell if each frequency range is without interference from each other and to test that the speakers can reproduce each clearly together and separately.
You Tube doesn't really do it justice (I play it direct from CD at room-vibrating volume), but you'll get the idea:
I'll then try a few other genres but that's always the first track I play.
oh, that's just a working base I cut from some PVC foam, so I dont mess up the stock base while painting and modeling. I just traced the stock oval. Its just rough cut, no sanding or anything.
So many great albums from 58/59. I just know how every single note is supposed to sound on Kind Of Blue
Those really were the days... for good jazz anyway. Not so long ago I was watching a program on the Japanese International Channel NHK-- "Mark of Beauty" IIRC. The background music, "Flamenco Sketches". So at least one person in Japan knows
Your photo reminds me that I need to convert my sentinels into something that I can use for other games. So much hobbying, so little time for it.
Dude, most of the Original Pressings of those records are now in the hands of big-time Japanese Collectors. It's HUGE there. I met a Japanese record Tourist at Jazz Record Mart in Chicago when it was still open. He was digging in the old gold, and he said he only collects records after the artist was dead. He never bought them when the artist was alive. nice guy.
Knight Time is the Right Time
Gonna need many, many more light coats of this thinned translucent red, maybe mix in a bit of gloss medium on later coats
Dave’s been watching those motorcycle shows where they go through the steps of painting the ghost flames on motorcycles and doing the candy coatings. Well done. Should be a real treat, especially if all of the knights and support mechs are done the same.
@theo- no, but that sounds interesting, I actually bought the Forge World Horus Heresy Masterclass book, and wanted to try it out. I find it best to try new, unproven techniques with whatever paints on hand on a $165 model
I had such a rollercoaster of thoughts on those WiP pics.
"Ok, silver, nothing crazy.
Pre-shaded some red, guess he wants it really red
Blue? Is he going for a GK armor look?
Green?! This is going to look terrible!
Oh, now it looks really good. Just enough variation to add shades of red."
Actually, no, I dont think I am going to battle damage this one up. At least not too much. It'll just be a cold-blooded infantry elimination machine and transport vehicle recycler.
O/T, but this is the 1:1 project I've been working on today
Before
After
nothing fancy, but my Wife's Birthday Present is installed, the new dishwasher. The Birch Butcher Block countertop needs the finishing done, that will take many coats and many sandings, and then many coats of Spar Urethane, then I want to add a tile (or maybe stainless steel?) backsplash, and finally hang the magnet strips I got for my kitchen knives, then there are pot lights for overhead. There is no reason my Food Prep area is not as well-equipped as my model prep area
Fully with you on the kitchen front...it needs to be equipped as anything else...the right tools for the right job...i dunno why birch was used...a nice walnut or cherry wooden look I think would have looked better together with the wall and the cupboard ? Also, while I totallysee why a steal backsplash would be the pinnacle of hygiene...tiles would look more stylish...but my views might be clouded from upbringing here...what are the other copies in the kitchen of yours? Chairs and table and such things?
Birch was used, because that is all that was available locally. This section of the kitchen will be the beta for the rest of the kitchen remodel eventually, so you can ignore the wall color, like the rest of the house, it all had a sloppy coat of what I call "Flip it tan" on everything before we bought it. Cherry or Walnut would have been an expensive special order. All the old cabinets are a dark walnut stain. I know white kitchen cabinets are now the trend, but I don't care, I don't want to spend the rest of my life cleaning cabinets. The people who own those magazine kitchens never ever cook, and therefore never make a mess. i do. A lot.
Good solid work bud, totally with you, kitchen most important room in the house. Personally like the mixing of timbers, just all has a nice warm feel to it.
For the splash back have you considered glass. Stainless is ok, but takes maintainance to look good, tiles are durable, but the grout is a pain after a few years. Look into putting toughened glass. easy wipe, stain resistant and if you are feeling fancy you could do something on the wall behind the glass that will be seen through it.
I've seen the glass tiles, and yeah I heard you can paint behind them for crazy effects. I dunno. Let me get through this project first. I bought a Random Orbital Sander (the excuse I needed to buy myself a birthday tool) and took off the water-based stain, it looked horrible the next day, like BAD. and I used some scrap block from these hobby benches to try out different finishes. I'm going all the way on this one, totally committed
in Hindsight Vik, I wish I'd bought a different wood with more varied wood tones, but I have work to do to make these boards stand out. This will teach me how to finish a softer hardwood properly.
Just coming off the back of a kitchen remodel / refresh myself so I know what you're about to go through... Although we did go with gloss white this time - those shiny magazine covers won us over finally Plus it makes our kitchen so much more bright and fresh, but we have a lack of natural light in there as it's in the middle of the house with no outside windows to let the light in ! Not so bad to keep clean either. We'd had the dark wood (original kitchen), beech wood effect and now gloss white. Next time I'm thinking a fresh oak may be on the cards, but that's a good 15+ yrs away (unless we happen to move before then)
And it gets better looking with age Best pad sander I ever owned, and still do, is my 1/4 sheet Porter Cable. The thing is a warrior.
I installed a dishwasher once. Man what a PITA. Getting the thing levelled... so rage inducing. I hope you had a frustration free experience.
Ah Vik, cherry would be way too soft. Walnut, although gorgeous, is not something I would use because it is a bit soft too, and has the oils in it. Turns one fingertips purple sometimes when one works with it. Dave made a good choice here.
dsteingass wrote: people who own those magazine kitchens never ever cook, and therefore never make a mess. i do. A lot.
Love the woodwork,
And for the backsplash, agree with Cam, glass all the way. No tiles (those would still need grouting, and that's a long term pain in the neck, speaking from my own kitchen counter in this), one glass panel stuck to the (prepainted, single colour or some fancy design, your choice) wall. Very resistant too when it lays flat (very important, this!) against a wall too.
And there was something else I wanted to mention...
No Way @ender! That is insane!! did any of the photos even work from the Photobucket days? I appreciate the love man! I haven't been doing much lately, but I pre-ordered all the New Necromunda stuff, that should get me active again. The endless stream of Space Marine crap was only pushing me away from it all. I want to paint some 54mm Vietnam models and take them to a game and call them Primaris Catachans, just to show how the irony of it all.
dsteingass wrote: No Way @ender! That is insane!! did any of the photos even work from the Photobucket days? I appreciate the love man! I haven't been doing much lately, but I pre-ordered all the New Necromunda stuff, that should get me active again. The endless stream of Space Marine crap was only pushing me away from it all. I want to paint some 54mm Vietnam models and take them to a game and call them Primaris Catachans, just to show how the irony of it all.
There were about 80 pages in the middle where the images didn't work. The beginning and end were fine though.
I can't get enough necromunda (GW's best IMO) so it was fun for me. You do great work. Pleas ekeep it up.
I'm pretty excited for Munda myself. I like that the boxed game is designed as the intro, 2-player learning system, then the Gang War book is used for all the classic height rules and such. If it plays anything like the old, it'll be worth it to learn the rules fairly well before getting too multi-level. I see it as a progressive system, and that's good. I think GW is on the right track. I dont get into AOS, but I think I se that system over there too with the large variety of OOB games lately.
i am hyped too and i already ordered my copy of the underhive...
also...a start collecting set of the scions...to make my own arbites...because i can´t wait for Gw to make them...and then i have an idea to make some techno redemptionists with skitarii...so...my schedule for the upcoming weeks is set^^
That sounds amazing Vik! Some fun shall be had! Your boys should be getting about old enough to learn the rules eh?
I have a minty get started Skitaari box too
My boys are ripe for starting tabletop already...my hobby adhd and the inability of mine to get (read and understand) the rules by me...are the hindrance it took so long...they play a self made 'munda variant with Lego minis for quite some time already^^
my stuff is all looked through , but the last weeks have been really 1:1 building and restoration intensive so that only yesterday i have cleaned my complete work desk...and now i am able to start building...
but i don´t know what to start with... a whole imperial sector worth of terrain...the new comp entry...or start building gangs...(even here i have three choices...escher, goliath or arbites made from scions...)...decisions, decisions...
You'll have more gangs over the next year. You need gangs painted, to learn the boardgame, so you can learn the real game with falling and such At least that's my thinking.
so gangs it is then...i just remembered i got a box worth of old plastic goliath and orlocks from Theo and CAM too...so no excuses probably i need to get painting^^
One stroke at a time, my friend. One stroke at a time.
Hey. I'm talking about painting. People with such vivid, and dirty, imaginations...
Enjoy the bounty from Santa. I did buy some Legos for myself a few years ago. Not as a toy, mind you, but for using as molds and forms for scratch-building. Yep. That's why.
Thank Skalk! Its great to see you man! Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate it.
I haven't touched a brush in a couple of weeks now. It seems like I've been living at work. I have a couple of days off now, and no video games or other easy distraction is interesting me, so hopefully I'll get something done. TBH, the Eschers are a bit intimidating to paint. All the little straps and spikes make it seem like you'll be going back and cleaning up perpetually., never ending.
As for the terrain, I've already got some ideas to turn extra bulkheads into larger structures. This Month's White Dwarf released a spires scenario that I feel Necromunda was made for, terrain is set up with lots of towers and walkways, with a central, highest tower in the middle. High Ground wins. But I still need to play a few games with the flat box set to learn the rules. It's like homework you have to do before getting to the fun 3d game.
I'm going to see if I can repeat the scratched paint layer effect again and if so, I'll do a tutorial. I use a nylon brush to scrape away the not quite dry top coat of paint.
Been a while but saw this and had to say some real stunning work Dave, I would say you have gotten better if anything that’s some nice realistic looking weathering.
The rust actually looks textured don’t know how you did it but you did and did it well, also hats off on the scratched technique that is impressive if you do a tutorial on that I am going to have to see it.
Now I have to go and get a set of those damn bulkheads sprues cheers Dave
Viktor von Domm wrote:Seems to me you didn't loose any know how at all...
Working on spruce tho is too daring for my taste...but your effects look very cool!
Also, nice to see you back working with stuff that really matters
Thanks again Vik! I can get to work, no problem. I'm finding it hard to actually finish anything.
CommissarKhaine wrote:That's looking amazing! Would love a tut on the scraped paint
Thanks, I hope to work on something soon.
RandyMcStab wrote:Yes me too, not heard of that before. Fantastic results.
Thanks, It was an accidental discovery.
lone dirty dog wrote:Been a while but saw this and had to say some real stunning work Dave, I would say you have gotten better if anything that’s some nice realistic looking weathering.
The rust actually looks textured don’t know how you did it but you did and did it well, also hats off on the scratched technique that is impressive if you do a tutorial on that I am going to have to see it.
Now I have to go and get a set of those damn bulkheads sprues cheers Dave
Thanks LDD! Good to see you man! - The secret to that is just Typhus Corrosion, its the color of steel rust with a little bit of fine pumice mixed in for texture.
Camkierhi wrote:Amazing work, still a master sir, truly magnificent mucky work.
I have also messed about with acetone on a cotton bud, be careful but gives a great worn effect.
Thanks! No chemicals here, just manipulation of acrylic layers. I spray water while still wet to diffuse the paint and give that faded look. If you're lucky, it'll create a nice pattern.
Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:That's excellent work.
Thanks Skalk! Appreciate it!
Dr H wrote:Good work, Dave. Very much does the job.
Thanks Doc!
Maybe today I'll get to this. I got the salt and everything ready last night, but didnt get started yet.
He up Dave, without sounding dumb ( not an uncommon aspect of my life ) when you say pumice do you get it in a sand type form ?
I only ask because I have only ever seen it in a stone form for removing dead skin, so I am wondering if you can purchase it as more sand based product or did you grind down a stone.
So basickly you mix the paint and sand together then you just paint the mix onto a model, is there any issue with it while painting it on to the model ?
Hey LDD,
Pumice is a common mineral used in art supplies and home products for texture. Its a soft, porous volcanic rock. It is used in ladies' beauty products like face scrubs (and some Men's, I have a beard scrub with pumice) for what they call "exfoliation". That is a fancy marketing term for "sanding- the grit just scrubs the dead layer of skin off of your face, aka, it sands your face, makes it feel fresh.
Even in fine art supplies, you can get pumice infused paint for medium grit, and even Marble Dust (probably a by-product of countertop making and such in modern industry) Like these texture pastes
The Liquitex paste is made with Marble Dust, this will make you scale desert sand or snow it is so fine (and its the same thing you get in a little pot of hobby-industry snow or sand effect) its that fine
The Chromacryl is made with pumice dust, so it has a more course texture than marble dust.
These both have a polymer medium, so it dries in clumps, rather than a nice smooth acrylic paint medium.
If you had some powder somehow ground from a stone (it would have to be done with a harder tool than the stone) you could absolutely mix it with paint.
It would be easier with some pre-made dust, but I havent tried this.
GW's Typhus Corrosion is an acrylic paint medium, somewhat metallic, with a very little bit of pumice dust already mixed in, so when it dries, you see a slight bit of texture in it, like real rust.
All of their Texture paint is just paint mixed with a polymer medium, and for about $2 more than a tiny 12mL self-drying pot of GW , I can buy this giant, 473 mL lifetime supply of paste, and mix my own paint into it.
A Tutorial
For Rusty, Grungy, Industrial Metal.
by: Dave Steingass
I live in the Midwest, United States. A part of the country known as the "Rust Belt" As a result, there is a lot of old industrial stuff exposed to the elements. When people stop maintaining this equipment, I've always been fascinated by the way it looks. In My Underhive, it looks a lot like "Abandoned Industrial Town, Anywhere, USA", a shining testament to the industrial age, some say.
Old Industrial metal is often rusted, and rust often leaves parts of the paint as it slowly takes over. Its always random, or it tells you where moisture has been accumulating.
1: Prime the plastic your base rust color. I used Badger Stynylrez Red Brown Primer. Let this dry completely.
2. Gather a brush, some standard table salt, water, and something to catch salt, this will make a mess.
3. Using water, Paint where you'd like rust to be. In the real world, rust is random, or tells you where moisture has settled.
4. For this tutorial, I am using parts on a sprue for ease of painting. This will work on a full model too, just do one section at a time. As much as you are comfortable doing at once. Don't hurry.
Sprinkle salt on the water.
5. After most of the water is absorbed (give it a few minutes) shake off the excess in your pan. You can reclaim wet salt all day and reuse it, but NEVER reclaim salt that has been painted. Finish the part/section/sprue side.
6. Go have a pint. Don't touch it until its dry.
7. Gather your airbrush, and some base layers. I am using government green (russian green) and Blue for my basecoats. I always use a drop or two of Vallejo Flow Improver, paint, and a drop or two of water, then i stir it all up in the brush cup with an old brush. Works for me every time YMMV
8. Paint the base color over the rust primer, salt and all
9. For the top coats, I am using Badger Minitaire Dusty Ground, and Vallejo Air UK Azure. I dont know if the colors are as important here as is that the colors MUST be of different VALUE in brightness as the bottom layer. You need CONTRAST between bottom coat and top coat. Light/Dark.
Paint them over the top.
[u]DO NOT HAVE A PINT - not now anyways, you MUST begin the next step before the topcoat dries!!![u]
10.This is a nylon cleaning brush. Its just a brush, with nylon bristles, nothing fancy. Any brush that IS NOT harder than the GW Plastic should work. I would not recommend a brass or metal brush, it would be harder than the plastic. An old toothbrush, a scrubbing brush, I'd imagine a variety of bristle sizes would make this look even better.
WITHOUT WETTING THE PAINT -Scrub the salt off of the plastic Over a trash basket, this is the messy part. DO NOT RECLAIM THIS SALT
11. Now, we want to spray our part with WATER, just plain old water. I just use my airbrush. While the part is wet, take your scrub brush and go crazy! Making sure to scrub in all directions, especially on the edges! Scratches, gouges, chips, just let it all happen!
12. This is just a cheap set of wire/nylon brushes, You can use any metal thing you want.
Make scratches, gouges, go nuts! Dont be afraid to spray it again and again, you'll start to see the water dissipate the paint and make cool patterns layered over the scratches.
13. NOW we get to go have another PINT!
Let this dry.
14. For washes, This is what I'm using.
Everyone knows that nuln oil is magic, well Vallejo Oiled Earth wash IS Nuln Oil, and a lot more economical!
Vallejo Light Rust, Rust, and Dark Rust washes, and GW Typhus Corrosion (I decant them into dropper bottles- it is NOT sold this way)
15. Start with the Nuln Oil wherever there is any plate-on-plate action, go easy, just a shadow. If you water down the nuln oil, let it seep into your scratches and cracks for shadow too.
16. I do rust washes LIGHT to DARK
Starting with Light Rust
Dont be afraid to RUB the light rust into your scratches and cracks. It's oK to remove paint with this technique.
17. Medium Rust wash is used for all of the rivets and bolts!
18. Dark Rust is used on any deep dents like bullet holes, or wherever metal has been torn or sheared. Also in the center of large splotches.
19. After Three washes, you're ready for ANOTHER PINT
This allows the washes to dry.
20. Finally, we go in with the Typhus Corrosion in the very center of large splotches and ESPECIALLY on the EDGES of the plates that have been torn or sheared off (the metal would rust there more rapidly with no paint to protect it)
If you followed the included drinking steps, you should be feeling pretty good about your accomplishment right about now. There is no wrong way to do this, and I'd LOVE to see how yours turns out!
Happy Underhiving!
while all of the tut is something you can bet i will try...i have to ask the devils advocate question: might you feel that jolly about all the underhive accomplishments due to the two pints?...never mind...
looks so damn cool...the most terrifying step probably is the brush works... here i will have the most hesitation to ruin something from the before done work...but faith...must be uphold
Thanks a lot guys! This was a lot of work I'm glad you liked it.
I am NOT a great figure painter, but this as a backdrop makes even my paintjobs look gooder.
Nice tutorial Dave going to have to try the nylon brush effect out on some grot tanks, also thanks for the pumice dust break down going to check out some art stores for this stuff now.
Also that blue works great as a contrast to the rust.
Thanks LDD, yeah the green doesn't look as good, but I didnt want to lighten the topcoat green enough to contrast. it works next to the blue, but not so much by itself. its all about contrast rather than color.
News From the Town Spire:
Forge World throws in the Necromunda Ring with some Hired Guns!
and I like my rust better
oooh, i also see a Gor, Half-horn, Sanctioned bounty-hunter
I know the Imperium is racist, and xenophobic, but It's good to see a beastman in 40k Imperial lore.
The fluff even says Hive Primus has a spire where abhumans and xenos are permitted for trade purposes.
Interesting how all these little extras are coming out, I have been looking all over at many different models, so much possibility.
I know GW get a bad rep, but to be honest I think IMHO they are amazing and have given us all so much. These Forge World models will probably be extortionately expensive, but in real term I honestly feel they are not. I could spend £100 or more on a Saturday night out on the beer, wake up the following day with a head ache and having had no real fun at all. Spend £100 in GW and you have months and months of fun and games, add a little imagination, and the challenge of trying to emulate great work like your rust, and it takes it to another level. Money well spent.
Agree BTW your rusty look is better, not sure what has happened to GW/Forgworld Painting team, used to be something to aspire to, not so much now.
Actually no, they are only £20 for the 3, and £18 for Gor half-horn- not too bad. I actually dont mind their prices. Compared to a lot of regular plastic model kits, its not bad at all. I just dont like the space marines everywhere thing. There are billions of GUARD, from millions of worlds, Marines are supposed to be rare. The Imperium exists because the GUARD hold the line.
Recently Gw has shown more mediocre paint jobs as to not scare off the customers...in my opinion a good marketing choice...comparable to the dove cosmetics advertising campaign...models with bumps and curves rather than stick models...
As with the rust...course yours is better...or cams...you two ooze rusted, breath it even...
Automatically Appended Next Post: Also...there is a squat hired gun even...
Your rust is definitely of better quality if that makes sense ha ha.
To be honest when people complain about the cost of models compared to the “old days”, I don’t think they take into context the value of money now compared to the early eighties or nineties even. I mean how much does food cost now compared to then, I remeber when my shop was under £40 a week over double that now without trying.
Add to that I was paying £60-£70 for military resin kits back then, so it ain’t as bad as people think IMHO.
Also it’s nice to see GW customer focused again, mind you I think it must be paying off as they seem quite committed.
As to the paint jobs yes they ain’t quite heavy metal anymore, mind you some of the lesser paint jobs have made the minis look a little shoddy.
Mind you those Orlocks heads ain’t the best, mind you that’s all I have to complain about the necromunda range ....... so far
Well that’s my waffling over now have you seen the hired guns yes that’s a squat an actual squat .....
That was the best weathering tut I've seen in a long time and I'm looking forward to trying it. Remember that airbrush you helped me buy in 2012? Tried it once, clogged, put it away for 5 years? Pulling it back out this weekend. My friend surprised me with a set of Vallejo paints(Leather & Metal). Looking forward to making a mess.
+2 if you can tell me what year that album came out
@flinty - probably not, but you want a very thin, even coat. An Airbrush makes it much faster and easier. Experiment! Show us the results! It only costs you time, paint, and some salt.
@Skalk- I know it sounds weird, but learning to keep it unclogged is tedious, but necessary if you want to use it. You WILL get faster and more efficient at cleaning, and most importantly painting, but it takes time and practice. T.he tool doesn't work without you.
I guess I'll get on the Shipping Crate bandwagon,
These are by 4Ground in the UK. Pre-painted, before the laser cuts. Very Thin, proper SCALE MDF stuff. They have some AMAZING terrain.
https://www.4ground.co.uk/
I built a set of their dumpsters
They need lettering and weathering though.
Automatically Appended Next Post:
Automatically Appended Next Post: Then the outer detail layer is painted, laser-cut cardboard
Thanks. I think they are the same; they use the same picture of clamping the tiny table leg. Amazon is much cheaper though, but only has the one size. Micromark has some sweet looking tools.
There is the woodworker's adage, one of an infinite amount of adages, "you can never have too many clamps." I am testing that statement. So far, it is holding true. We won't discuss how many clamps I have. It's worse than my collection of tweezers. Much, much worse.
I'll treat myself to a couple of pairs of the short ones.
Shipping crates look good. If you ever get around to playing Infinity..you'll be set. Shipping crates used to be a staple of Infinity terrain for quite some time, even thouse marked Weyland-Yutani. The removable top looks very useful. I always like interior access.
Automatically Appended Next Post: So, there we have it, the 4Ground Shipping crates
more space-efficient than the Imperial design.
Fits the Armorcast crate piles
The 4ground shipping containers are good, I bought three a while back and have been planning to build the third on the weekend for the past couple of weeks.
Great tutorial btw, I've had my eye on the Vallejo washes for a while now, guess they'll be getting more of my money.
@redharvest - I just got 4 more of the clamps from Amazon, same exact Japanese brand and everything. just half the price The Brand seems to be Hatagane, the logo is just a butterfly in a circle, stamped into each
https://www.fine-tools.com/hatagane.html
btw- all of my build bench photos currently look dark because my trusty old OTT light bulb finally died. If they are ridiculously priced, i'll replace it with another Chinese LED with all the different light temps and dimmers like my paint bench has.
Red Harvest wrote: Just don't acccidentally wash your brushes in your beer.
I've done that so many times that I only drink from a can now.
dude WOW! You cleaned your desk! And to think you used to give me a (jokingly) hard time about mine.
I did absolutely everything wrong with my first airbrush attempt. Air pressure likely too high, was using "not airbrush" paint, expectations way too high, and gave up far too soon. I didn't bring it out this weekend but next weekend for sure. Probably.
I'd post a pic of my clamps but since it's very similar to Red's.
NO! LOL That was a pic from when I first built it That corner is a huge mess right now
Automatically Appended Next Post: @skalk- start with WATER, get the feels of it. Then add a little wash, slowly thicken to paint, you'll find out what works, and what doesnt. there is no exact formula. You cant hurt it, unless you drop and bend the needle
Whenever I use my AB it always feels still like defusing a bomb to me too...
Something about the combination of noise and electricity makes it an obstacle to use...weird, as working with a dremel is something I can do in my sleep...
Automatically Appended Next Post: And the fear of getting it all clogged up...well probably that is the top hindrance...
M0rdain wrote: Well i disappear from the scene for 4 years, i come back and the same faces are going strong. Looking great Dave.
Welcome back, M0rdian. I got back last month after being gone since Jan '14. Reminds me of when I first joined Dakka, saw a bunch of posts from guys who had (also) been out of the hobby for 8-10 years, came back to it around the same time I did.
Red Harvest wrote: Just don't acccidentally wash your brushes in your beer.
I've done that so many times that I only drink from a can now.
Dude, no. Just no. Beer from a can is nasty. Just drink from the bottle. Good Luck 'accidentally' dipping your brush into that. Unless it is a Mickeys Malt Liquor wide mouth bottle. but if you drink that, you may have bigger problems.
Interestingly, a nice way to break up tap water is to add a drop of pet shampoo to a cup of it. I say Pet shampoo because you can use that with natural bristle brushes too as rinse water. Just don't over do it or your airbrush will be blowing soap bubbles. :(
Red Harvest wrote: Dude, no. Just no. Beer from a can is nasty. Just drink from the bottle. Good Luck 'accidentally' dipping your brush into that. Unless it is a Mickeys Malt Liquor wide mouth bottle. but if you drink that, you may have bigger problems.
Viktor von Domm wrote:
And the fear of getting it all clogged up...well probably that is the top hindrance...
This is the fundamental fear you have to conquer. It is Irrational, there is no mysticism, It will get clogged, you have to learn to clean it. There is no way around this, ever. Like wiping your butt, doing laundry, or washing dishes, cleaning your airbrush.
M0rdain wrote:Well i disappear from the scene for 4 years, i come back and the same faces are going strong. Looking great Dave.
Man! It's Great to see you! Absolutely! Welcome back! I hope you feel as welcome as you ever did!
Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:@ Dave- I blame my occupation.
I wonder who else will be showing up soon?
I havent seen Mxwlmrdr, Hazzer, Scarper. Everybody comes back eventually
Honestly, I'm really digging the new LEDs out nowadays. These shop lights are supposed to last like 25 years, and I'm always loving the full spectrum daylight setting. Here in Indiana, winter is 110% Grey and SUCK weather all damn winter, the depression is REAL, I'm not kidding. Every damn day is Grey and miserable. A Human can only take so much of that, the daylight spectrum really helps. I think a mix of lighting is best. Except Soft White Incandescant, which is really Yellow and Depressing as well.
btw- all of my build bench photos currently look dark because my trusty old OTT light bulb finally died. If they are ridiculously priced, i'll replace it with another Chinese LED with all the different light temps and dimmers like my paint bench has.
Is there a post where you discuss this subject? If not, perhaps make one? THX
Rain? Well today was 75 degrees Fahrenheit here, and sunny. Tomorrow it'll be 80 degrees. And sunny
We'll get your rain this week-end though. I hope you can get our sun and warmth. Dry things out a bit.
Have you though about one of those Arc lamps made from LEDs? if you poke around Klaus's thread you'll see that he has one. (You should poke around his thread anyways, just for its general awesomeness.)
Yellowish lighting. It looks good in Frank Lloyd Wright designed homes, but otherwise I agree. it is terrible light for the hobby.
Those Alzo Joyous lights I mentioned are used to treat S.A.D. Treat yourself and the missus to some. They are great in reading lamps and desk lamps. I use them in my avian lamps for my parrots.
I picked up one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V9YW41O/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was on sale at the time. Occasionally, Amazon will sell things at or below cost. I don't know the reason, but I appreciate finding them Its a Chinese-made LED, and it appears it is sold under a few different brands.
I got another one, yet somewhat smaller for pictures over my turntable, when my ancient swing-arm metal lamp finally gave up.
It has 4 different color temps (you can see on the additional amazon pics), and a full 6 level dimmer mode, Controls that remind me of the USS Enterprise, and more fine adjustments than I'll ever need.
I'm not alone, I follow most of the miniature painters (that I can stand their personalities) on Twitch, and many of them use these same lamps. I guess the LED is easier to color adjust for video cameras too.
@Red, I've followed Klaus for a long, long time. He is an OG LOER member too He comes here occasionally He is an inspiration to us all!
I've tagged him
I found a similar single arm lamp for $40, but it appears that I ordered the last one so the photo in the listing is not available any more. Hopefully a photo will reappear when they get restocked.
That looks rather cool. I probably need to improve the light in my room, i used to have a lot more lights, but they have fallen apart and broken over the years i have not been painting.
M0rdain wrote: I probably need to improve the light in my room, i used to have a lot more lights, but they have fallen apart and broken over the years i have not been painting.
I feel proper lighting is one of the most important tools in your hobby kit. Two of these with good bulbs might be a solution.
I have an important SUPPLY DROP to share
A desperately needed new CHAIR!
Orlocks and stuff, Gregor Eisenhorn, Gang War 2, MAD, and a new Kirkman comic, VS.
Thanks, I disagree with GW's paint scheme. Orlocks are Factory Workers. They wear dark blue coveralls. Not grey. My Father worked in a stamping plant, his father was a machinist, I worked in a food cannery. Dark Blue is my blood
How's the lumbar support on that chair? Asking for a friend. Yes, that's it. I've found that arm-rests on a chair for the hobby can get in the way... as in bang the 'funny bone'. Not pleasant.
Gaming chairs look tacky. Not in a kitschy cool sort of way either.
Dark blue indoors, tan outdoors. That's the way of it. If you work in a Muffin factory, you'll get a hard hat. Not kidding.
The chair is amazing. Lumbar support is built in, nice curve, and is backed by the netting stuff. Armrests arent in the way, I have some bony elbows anyway. and the leather smells lovely
Although you can now get a gaming chair with RGB (can't remember where from as I'm not an RGB fan... geddit?), so it can match your RGB keyboard and mouse... and motherboard, RAM, fans, waterblock, SSD, monitor and graphics card...
You see that is what you get for being popular, being famous and having so many people following, you attract the highest quality people (unlike me) and you are held to a higher standard.....yes I know people, even Dave has standards! You see a pitiful blog like mine never gets anyone worthy enough to actually read it and thus I can post anything I want, were you have the high and mighty gods/mods of Dakka hanging around.
I'm going to fire it up again this weekend. I'm highly motivated to get the Mantic stuff done. Once I'm done with that I should be practiced enough to work on my own stuff with confidence.
and yes, my friend knows I'm using his stuff for practice. He knows the end result will be decent.
Congrats. I look forward to seeing you give it the rust and industrial painted metal treatment. 1:1 scale modeling projects are so much fun
What? Someone had to suggest it. Of course it would be me
Drive safely Dave, and enjoy the ride. Be careful with Bean. Small dogs and airbags are a bad mix. At the very least I hope that you have a doggie seat belt.
Question: All caps, WARGAMING TERRAIN TRANSPORT VEHICLE, like the CRASSUS ARMOURED ASSAULT TRANSPOURT?
Thanks!
LOL, after much research and inner debate between the Toyota or the Nissan, RUST, actually decided it for me.
Toyota has had a lot of recalls on the Tacomas for frame rust. In some cases, they've cut checks to owners for double or triple the blue book value of the used truck. I had a guy stop by the house to give me an estimate on taking a dirty old silver maple tree down, he was driving an 09 Tacoma. The body was flawless, no rust. I asked him, he said he's had nothing but problems with rust on the frame. Changing brake pads broke tools. I went to the Dealership (I like messing with the salesmen) they don't want you to leave the dealership, so I farted around, pretending to make up my mind for awhile. Verbally comparing the Toyota specs, Drinking their free coffee and cookies I spoke with a service guy who was there. I asked him about Nissan rust. He said "come with me, I wanna show you something" and took me out into the back parking lot, and showed me his 1997 or 98 Nissan Frontier, NO RUST. Mind you, this isnt Dry-land Texas, this is Indiana, lots of SNOW and WET, and SALT and long-ass winters where we have zero public transportation. I see NEWER Dodges, Fords, and Chevy's every day with bubbly rust all over the bodies (I look at them for modeling inspiration) so, to see a 20 year old Pick Up with ZERO rust, is quite the miracle. What good is an Engine that will last 2-300k miles if the body rusts away? Then I kept telling my wife, "let's sleep on it, come back tomorrow" and they start making deals.....
The caps are to leave no doubt this is WARGAMING RELATED I HAVE to get to my FLGS to haul a maximum bed payload of UP TO 1500 Lbs OR I can tow a trailer of UP TO 6500 Lbs of sprues, and paint, back home
@Red - The first thing I did was take Bean for a ride all the way across town to the Penguin Point drive-thru for cheeseburgers She loves rides, and cheese. I never drive it like I stole it.
My JRT loves the car rides too. Still, it's not how you drive. It's always that other guy. You know the one. The fool on his fething phone...
I buckle up my dog unless I am driving through the neighborhood, then she gets to sit up front and sniff out the slightly open window. I may be a bit over-protective.
To be totally wargame related the WARGAMING TERRAIN TRANSPORT VEHICLE needs some googly eyes shooped onto it
actually you should build a nice flamer on the top...really...it lightens up the neighbourhood a treat...
all i am a bit underwhelmed about is only the colour...well...that corporate silver...really? its so resale worthy...why not some nice flashy red...or yellow...
dsteingass wrote: 12v battery cant charge one However, I can tow almost 3 tons of ammo
You get a power inverter and big ass capacitors. As long as the engine runs, it's scorchin' time
Silver is an excellent color for a car or truck. Much nicer than white, less aggravating to the police than red. Easier to see than black. Now gold is a tacky color, except for a gold ragtop 1969 corvette like my 6th grade teacher drove. Sweet car.
Just stretch out in the bed of the truck. It's called a bed for a reason...
My jr. high school bus driver was very short. She nailed wooden blocks to the pedals so that she could drive. Ah, those were the days. Safety-Schmafety.
I just wanted to.say thanks for the rusted metal tutorial. Tried following your instructions today with my son and its.going pretty well so far. i managed to borrow my dad's airbrush making it rather easier.
The Boy chose his own colours and I didn't realise quite how close they were so.his is a bit subtle
I chose a strongercontrast but have some learning to do on the consistencybrequired to scrape that top layer off.
Should be dry soon so.i can do the other side of each bulkhead.
I still haven't painted anything. My Days off have been spent doing IRL stuff, unfortunately. However, I met the one and only Bootsy Collins yesterday,(he played bass for James Brown's Original J.B.s, Most of Parliament, all of Funkadelic, Bootsy's Rubber Band, and that was just the 70s) so that's pretty cool.
Well, My Wonderful Wife bought me a new Tool, a SkillSaw WormDrive portable Jobsite Tablesaw. as you know, My only woodworking area has been mobile since we moved into this house, and you know we bought this house with the unfinished barn in the backyard.
And my workbench was my two trusty sawhorses. I've upgraded from a bowed piece of old plywood to a door
So I used the new WARGAMING TERRAIN TRANSPORT VEHICLE to get some Lumber and started building a Combination Table Saw Outfeed Table / Assembly Table / Workbench
With my Intrepid Shop Assistant, Bean...we worked and worked
The concrete out here is also uneven, so my design has a lot of legs, those legs can flex up and down a bit under the weight of the top as I move it around the shop. I built it heavy and sturdy
3/4" plywood top
Flush Trim Routed, as the top isn't designed perfectly square and true, flatness was the goal.
Then Trimmed with Poplar hardwood. It's not actually from the Poplar tree, its from the Tulip Tree. It's cheap, and plentiful around these parts.
Then routed a 45 degree chamfer on the edge to knock down the sharpness and assist sliding big boards and sheet goods onto it.
Then did a LOT of filling, sanding, and Rubbed a Danish Oil Finish on it. I payed a lot more attention to the top than the bottom shelf, as that will mostly store lumber stock.
The Poplar has a green Fungus figure grain, that turns almost black when oiled. I like it.
I designed it so that the cast iron top of the Table Saw (also chamfered) sits exactly 3/8" above the worktop so the Miter Gague slides out unimpeded. The Fence extends to 25" right, so I can rip full 4x8' sheet goods, and the 4x4' outfeed table is enough to catch full sheet goods.
Dave, poplar tends to get the greenish color; it's a normal thing, not fungus induced.
The term for wood that has been colored by fungus is 'spalting' and it can produce some really cool, and colorful effects. I have a small table I built with some spalted tulip poplar that I milled myself from a fallen tree that had been on my parent's property. </lecture>
Poplar can 'burn' when one uses a router on it. The smell is appalling. It is cheap though. Filler wood.
Get yourself some good bench vices too. Yes, I know that you already know that...
Flinty wrote:Wow. That is substantial and very well put together. What do you do again?
Thanks! I work with computers every day, this is one of my few actual feelings of accomplishment and the only place I feel like my labor matters.
monkeytroll wrote:Nice work Dave
Thanks Monkey!
Red Harvest wrote:Dave, poplar tends to get the greenish color; it's a normal thing, not fungus induced.
The term for wood that has been colored by fungus is 'spalting' and it can produce some really cool, and colorful effects. I have a small table I built with some spalted tulip poplar that I milled myself from a fallen tree that had been on my parent's property. </lecture>
Poplar can 'burn' when one uses a router on it. The smell is appalling. It is cheap though. Filler wood.
Get yourself some good bench vices too. Yes, I know that you already know that...
I plan on ordering a big vice with a quick release. They arent cheap though. How do you mean mill it? cut it square with a big band saw?
Viktor von Domm wrote:*drools*...er...not bad...damn...
.
.
)
I found this just last night, using the cheap pull-back cars found in CVS
ruins your immune system.
we never got together needless to say.
.....nope 
...
yes that’s a squat an actual squat .....
