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Viktor von Domm wrote:Seems to me you didn't loose any know how at all...

Working on spruce tho is too daring for my taste...but your effects look very cool!

Also, nice to see you back working with stuff that really matters

Thanks again Vik! I can get to work, no problem. I'm finding it hard to actually finish anything.

CommissarKhaine wrote:That's looking amazing! Would love a tut on the scraped paint

Thanks, I hope to work on something soon.

RandyMcStab wrote:Yes me too, not heard of that before. Fantastic results.

Thanks, It was an accidental discovery.

lone dirty dog wrote:Been a while but saw this and had to say some real stunning work Dave, I would say you have gotten better if anything that’s some nice realistic looking weathering.

The rust actually looks textured don’t know how you did it but you did and did it well, also hats off on the scratched technique that is impressive if you do a tutorial on that I am going to have to see it.

Now I have to go and get a set of those damn bulkheads sprues cheers Dave

Thanks LDD! Good to see you man! - The secret to that is just Typhus Corrosion, its the color of steel rust with a little bit of fine pumice mixed in for texture.

Camkierhi wrote:Amazing work, still a master sir, truly magnificent mucky work.

I have also messed about with acetone on a cotton bud, be careful but gives a great worn effect.

Thanks! No chemicals here, just manipulation of acrylic layers. I spray water while still wet to diffuse the paint and give that faded look. If you're lucky, it'll create a nice pattern.

Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:That's excellent work.

Thanks Skalk! Appreciate it!

Dr H wrote:Good work, Dave. Very much does the job.

Thanks Doc!

Maybe today I'll get to this. I got the salt and everything ready last night, but didnt get started yet.

He up Dave, without sounding dumb ( not an uncommon aspect of my life ) when you say pumice do you get it in a sand type form ?

I only ask because I have only ever seen it in a stone form for removing dead skin, so I am wondering if you can purchase it as more sand based product or did you grind down a stone.

So basickly you mix the paint and sand together then you just paint the mix onto a model, is there any issue with it while painting it on to the model ?

Hey LDD,
Pumice is a common mineral used in art supplies and home products for texture. Its a soft, porous volcanic rock. It is used in ladies' beauty products like face scrubs (and some Men's, I have a beard scrub with pumice) for what they call "exfoliation". That is a fancy marketing term for "sanding- the grit just scrubs the dead layer of skin off of your face, aka, it sands your face, makes it feel fresh.

Even in fine art supplies, you can get pumice infused paint for medium grit, and even Marble Dust (probably a by-product of countertop making and such in modern industry) Like these texture pastes

The Liquitex paste is made with Marble Dust, this will make you scale desert sand or snow it is so fine (and its the same thing you get in a little pot of hobby-industry snow or sand effect) its that fine
The Chromacryl is made with pumice dust, so it has a more course texture than marble dust.
These both have a polymer medium, so it dries in clumps, rather than a nice smooth acrylic paint medium.

If you had some powder somehow ground from a stone (it would have to be done with a harder tool than the stone) you could absolutely mix it with paint.
It would be easier with some pre-made dust, but I havent tried this.

GW's Typhus Corrosion is an acrylic paint medium, somewhat metallic, with a very little bit of pumice dust already mixed in, so when it dries, you see a slight bit of texture in it, like real rust.

All of their Texture paint is just paint mixed with a polymer medium, and for about $2 more than a tiny 12mL self-drying pot of GW , I can buy this giant, 473 mL lifetime supply of paste, and mix my own paint into it.

Don't read this...

...read this ..

A Tutorial
For Rusty, Grungy, Industrial Metal.
by: Dave Steingass


I live in the Midwest, United States. A part of the country known as the "Rust Belt" As a result, there is a lot of old industrial stuff exposed to the elements. When people stop maintaining this equipment, I've always been fascinated by the way it looks. In My Underhive, it looks a lot like "Abandoned Industrial Town, Anywhere, USA", a shining testament to the industrial age, some say.





Old Industrial metal is often rusted, and rust often leaves parts of the paint as it slowly takes over. Its always random, or it tells you where moisture has been accumulating.

1: Prime the plastic your base rust color. I used Badger Stynylrez Red Brown Primer. Let this dry completely.

2. Gather a brush, some standard table salt, water, and something to catch salt, this will make a mess.


3. Using water, Paint where you'd like rust to be. In the real world, rust is random, or tells you where moisture has settled.


4. For this tutorial, I am using parts on a sprue for ease of painting. This will work on a full model too, just do one section at a time. As much as you are comfortable doing at once. Don't hurry.
Sprinkle salt on the water.


5. After most of the water is absorbed (give it a few minutes) shake off the excess in your pan. You can reclaim wet salt all day and reuse it, but NEVER reclaim salt that has been painted. Finish the part/section/sprue side.




6. Go have a pint. Don't touch it until its dry.


7. Gather your airbrush, and some base layers. I am using government green (russian green) and Blue for my basecoats. I always use a drop or two of Vallejo Flow Improver, paint, and a drop or two of water, then i stir it all up in the brush cup with an old brush. Works for me every time YMMV


8. Paint the base color over the rust primer, salt and all


9. For the top coats, I am using Badger Minitaire Dusty Ground, and Vallejo Air UK Azure. I dont know if the colors are as important here as is that the colors MUST be of different VALUE in brightness as the bottom layer. You need CONTRAST between bottom coat and top coat. Light/Dark.
Paint them over the top.



[u]DO NOT HAVE A PINT - not now anyways, you MUST begin the next step before the topcoat dries!!![u]

10.This is a nylon cleaning brush. Its just a brush, with nylon bristles, nothing fancy. Any brush that IS NOT harder than the GW Plastic should work. I would not recommend a brass or metal brush, it would be harder than the plastic. An old toothbrush, a scrubbing brush, I'd imagine a variety of bristle sizes would make this look even better.



WITHOUT WETTING THE PAINT -Scrub the salt off of the plastic Over a trash basket, this is the messy part. DO NOT RECLAIM THIS SALT


11. Now, we want to spray our part with WATER, just plain old water. I just use my airbrush. While the part is wet, take your scrub brush and go crazy! Making sure to scrub in all directions, especially on the edges! Scratches, gouges, chips, just let it all happen!




12. This is just a cheap set of wire/nylon brushes, You can use any metal thing you want.
Make scratches, gouges, go nuts! Dont be afraid to spray it again and again, you'll start to see the water dissipate the paint and make cool patterns layered over the scratches.



13. NOW we get to go have another PINT!

Let this dry.

14. For washes, This is what I'm using.

Everyone knows that nuln oil is magic, well Vallejo Oiled Earth wash IS Nuln Oil, and a lot more economical!
Vallejo Light Rust, Rust, and Dark Rust washes, and GW Typhus Corrosion (I decant them into dropper bottles- it is NOT sold this way)

15. Start with the Nuln Oil wherever there is any plate-on-plate action, go easy, just a shadow. If you water down the nuln oil, let it seep into your scratches and cracks for shadow too.


16. I do rust washes LIGHT to DARK
Starting with Light Rust


Dont be afraid to RUB the light rust into your scratches and cracks. It's oK to remove paint with this technique.


17. Medium Rust wash is used for all of the rivets and bolts!


18. Dark Rust is used on any deep dents like bullet holes, or wherever metal has been torn or sheared. Also in the center of large splotches.


19. After Three washes, you're ready for ANOTHER PINT

This allows the washes to dry.

20. Finally, we go in with the Typhus Corrosion in the very center of large splotches and ESPECIALLY on the EDGES of the plates that have been torn or sheared off (the metal would rust there more rapidly with no paint to protect it)



If you followed the included drinking steps, you should be feeling pretty good about your accomplishment right about now.
There is no wrong way to do this, and I'd LOVE to see how yours turns out!


Happy Underhiving!

I always approve of tutorials that encourage beer.

Nice tutorial.

while all of the tut is something you can bet i will try...i have to ask the devils advocate question: might you feel that jolly about all the underhive accomplishments due to the two pints?...never mind...

looks so damn cool...the most terrifying step probably is the brush works... here i will have the most hesitation to ruin something from the before done work...but faith...must be uphold

Thank you Dave, true guru stuff going on here folks.

Thanks guys! Much appreciated!

@Vik - 3 mates, pint.

You know, I never really weathered the tower....

Superb tutorial and rust effects. These pieces look great and are perfect for the underhive IMHO

Bestrust tutorial I've seen yet. You're a maniac, Dave!

Thanks a lot guys! This was a lot of work I'm glad you liked it.




I am NOT a great figure painter, but this as a backdrop makes even my paintjobs look gooder.

Nice tutorial Dave going to have to try the nylon brush effect out on some grot tanks, also thanks for the pumice dust break down going to check out some art stores for this stuff now.

Also that blue works great as a contrast to the rust.

Thanks LDD, yeah the green doesn't look as good, but I didnt want to lighten the topcoat green enough to contrast. it works next to the blue, but not so much by itself. its all about contrast rather than color.

When I made my tut into a Dakka Article, I found this article about the different Vallejo Pumice products
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Vallejo%20Pumice%20Comparison

News From the Town Spire:
Forge World throws in the Necromunda Ring with some Hired Guns!


and I like my rust better


oooh, i also see a Gor, Half-horn, Sanctioned bounty-hunter

I know the Imperium is racist, and xenophobic, but It's good to see a beastman in 40k Imperial lore.
The fluff even says Hive Primus has a spire where abhumans and xenos are permitted for trade purposes.

Interesting how all these little extras are coming out, I have been looking all over at many different models, so much possibility.

I know GW get a bad rep, but to be honest I think IMHO they are amazing and have given us all so much. These Forge World models will probably be extortionately expensive, but in real term I honestly feel they are not. I could spend £100 or more on a Saturday night out on the beer, wake up the following day with a head ache and having had no real fun at all. Spend £100 in GW and you have months and months of fun and games, add a little imagination, and the challenge of trying to emulate great work like your rust, and it takes it to another level. Money well spent.

Agree BTW your rusty look is better, not sure what has happened to GW/Forgworld Painting team, used to be something to aspire to, not so much now.

Actually no, they are only £20 for the 3, and £18 for Gor half-horn- not too bad. I actually dont mind their prices. Compared to a lot of regular plastic model kits, its not bad at all. I just dont like the space marines everywhere thing. There are billions of GUARD, from millions of worlds, Marines are supposed to be rare. The Imperium exists because the GUARD hold the line.

Great tutorial on the rust covered metal.

Cheers,

CB

Recently Gw has shown more mediocre paint jobs as to not scare off the customers...in my opinion a good marketing choice...comparable to the dove cosmetics advertising campaign...models with bumps and curves rather than stick models...

As with the rust...course yours is better...or cams...you two ooze rusted, breath it even...




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Also...there is a squat hired gun even...

Thanks for the turorial, and the hired guns are looking good. May have to dust off my old ratskins...

Your rust is definitely of better quality if that makes sense ha ha.

To be honest when people complain about the cost of models compared to the “old days”, I don’t think they take into context the value of money now compared to the early eighties or nineties even. I mean how much does food cost now compared to then, I remeber when my shop was under £40 a week over double that now without trying.

Add to that I was paying £60-£70 for military resin kits back then, so it ain’t as bad as people think IMHO.
Also it’s nice to see GW customer focused again, mind you I think it must be paying off as they seem quite committed.

As to the paint jobs yes they ain’t quite heavy metal anymore, mind you some of the lesser paint jobs have made the minis look a little shoddy.
Mind you those Orlocks heads ain’t the best, mind you that’s all I have to complain about the necromunda range ....... so far

Well that’s my waffling over now have you seen the hired guns yes that’s a squat an actual squat .....

That was the best weathering tut I've seen in a long time and I'm looking forward to trying it. Remember that airbrush you helped me buy in 2012? Tried it once, clogged, put it away for 5 years? Pulling it back out this weekend. My friend surprised me with a set of Vallejo paints(Leather & Metal). Looking forward to making a mess.

Thanks guys! I really hope it helps some of your projects, and I'd love to see your results. You cannot get it wrong

LDD, I cant wait for those to come out! Especially the squat!!

I have to say the Escher and Goliath models are my favourites, but the squat is kinda cool.

Just don't acccidentally wash your brushes in your beer.

The GW rust is a bit banal. I like yours better. Remember, Rust never sleeps. (+1 to any who get the reference.)

That rust tutorial is great. Thanks for that. Do you need to use an airbrush, or does it.just make it a bit easier?

+2 if you can tell me what year that album came out

@flinty - probably not, but you want a very thin, even coat. An Airbrush makes it much faster and easier. Experiment! Show us the results! It only costs you time, paint, and some salt.

@Skalk- I know it sounds weird, but learning to keep it unclogged is tedious, but necessary if you want to use it. You WILL get faster and more efficient at cleaning, and most importantly painting, but it takes time and practice. T.he tool doesn't work without you.

I guess I'll get on the Shipping Crate bandwagon,

These are by 4Ground in the UK. Pre-painted, before the laser cuts. Very Thin, proper SCALE MDF stuff. They have some AMAZING terrain.
https://www.4ground.co.uk/

I built a set of their dumpsters

They need lettering and weathering though.


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Then the outer detail layer is painted, laser-cut cardboard

Dave, where did you get those cool clamps? Perhaps a quick review? Por Favor?

These https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Brass-Miniature-Clamps-Inches/dp/B06XD5WGW9 ?

@red, they LOOK the same. I got mine from Micro Mark
https://www.micromark.com/Solid-Brass-Miniature-Bar-Clamps-3-3-4-Inches-Long-Set-of-2

And this entire thread is one BIG review of those clamps!
They are among my favorite tools ever. I have a 4 of this size, and 4 of the longer ones