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The Chaos dreads are worth it, cheaper than GW ones and look a million times better to boot.

Augustus wrote:
Don't bother, send it back as defective, it will never be right. That doesn't work, the hot water thing is a myth, once resin has cured it is in the shape it is in, it's an exothermic chemical cure, heating it up after it cures to make it bendy doesn't work because it's resin, all it will do is cure it more in the messed up shape, then when you try to bend it it will snap.

Agreed that if its bad send it back.

Well i'd vouch for the opposite, how did you try this method as my :-

Heirophant
Phantom
Winged hive tyrant (wings have been totally reshaped) see my P&M Blog

were all corrected and reformed from warped/bent peices using the hot water method......... and they are now happy models with unwarped/ reshaped to what i want peices of resin.........



Dan

Just this morning I had to straighten part of the carriage of a DKOK lascannon - hot water did the trick for that.

I had a similar problem with my wraithseer...tbh I still do :S

I managed to get all the bits sorted, perfectly trimmed and fitting then assembled it!

now however I think due to the heat the bottom of his long spear has distorted slightly (after all the time I spent getting it straight!)

whats worse is I tried to fix it and the bottom bit snapped..although thankfully it was clean so I just glued it back in...now Im paranoid to try again especially as its fully assembled... wonder how much people will notice a slightly bendy spear bottom lol

Did it snap when it was heated? Because I don't think I've ever seen that happen.


You should be fine to fix it, just reheat it. The trick is to do it gradually.

Heat it up, bend it to the desired position. Let it set, see what happens.
If it needs to, continue bending after heating it back up. Rinse and repeat until it's perfectly straight.

because the model is fully assembled I had a bit of trouble heating the desired bit.
What I think happened is I didnt heat it adequately before massaging it which caused it to snap as it wasnt flexible enough >.<

just annoying how it distorted after I had built it in the first place!, will be leaving them off the dining room table in future! (out of the sun)

Do you reckon its still worth trying as its a bit fiddling..although I may have a go at removing the entire arm so I can get a better line on it without damaging the rest of the model.

Is it attached to the base?

If it's not, I can't see how hard it would be to get a small jar filled with water and just dip the spear end in that way.

it is :(

if you take a peek @ the model on forgeworld I have assembled it almost exactly the same. So that the spear runs down and glues to the base to give it extra hold.

The only way I can see it working (having just looking at mine again) is removing the whole arm/spear along with gently cutting the spear from the base

so then I can just heat it without anything else in the way.

Wait, you attached the spear to the base?

Ugh.

I think you're kinda gonna have a problem.

Have you considered perhaps sculpting kind of a flame effect surrounding the bottom speartip? Or heck, maybe have it being embedded in between two halves of a body.

I've got a Hector Rex I'm working on right now where there's an issue with the sword tip(namely: part of it is chipped off and it doesn't present properly), so to cover it up...bam, flaming sword!

tehbarry wrote:Hi everyone, and sorry if this is in the wrong place since I wasn't sure where to post it. I was looking at some forgeworld tanks such as Imperial Macharius Vulcan Heavy tank and the death korps of krieg etc. I just wanted to know, are forgeworld minis worth the money, both in the game aspect and modeling aspect? I have heard people saying there are a lot of flash lines and something about resin dust... So yeah I couldn't really decide, and so I have turned to all you Dakkaites.

Generally, you would be recommended to buy what you perceve as "Worth". Such as with the chaos bits, or the ship/ tank bits, but seeing as there are OTHER companies out there that are doing the same bits for much much less....

You have to make a personal choice in that matter. In your case, I would do more homework, decide on what exactly my goal was, and then work tword that goal, using buying Forgeworld as a part of it.

Don't buy form them just to spend money, do it in terms of fulfilling a particular goal, ( I/E I want a army of orks, and there are a couple of tanks I want to augment the army. I have a Mech platoon, and I need a command vehicle. I need a super heavy heavy weapon, and FW has it.)

They like to think they are top drawer stuff, but in terms of the whole, FW is crap. Crap price, quality, and general attitude when dealing with them.

I picked up something simple like a couple of scenery pieces and ended up regretting it with the fill, the resculpt with hot water, and the general flash issue with what I bought.
And that was just a little fortification part, not something serious.

Generally, I avoid FW, and look hard at third fourth or even build what I want on my own.

so, bottom line, it is a personal decision on what you particularly want to buy.

Don't just think your going to order it, its going to come, and then your getting what you pay for, because there is a lot of hidden effort and cost that is going to be involved in the decision then just picking up the model of your choice.

yah I know Kanluwen proper pain lol >.<

but thanks for the advice anyhow!

I just took another look and yah what you suggest might be best. I have some spare Eldar bits I can use to partially hide the offending segment! lol

On my wraithseer i found the resin they used for it to be quite different compared to the standard stuff. It seemed very flexible and 'soft'? compared to the other resin they use.
I dont know wether its partly due to the resin being a very early batch and mixing slightly with the mould release but with the sprear i felt i was almost snapping the peice when i straightened it out D:
I'd vouch for FW being pretty pants in every department apart from the actual sculpts which I love too much not to buy.

edited for rubbish spelling

Dan

yeah man it definately felt very fragile >.<

Im prob going to have a go at removing the whole arm and attempting to straighten it later today, I'll let you know how I get on

If I cant It's going to stay bent as I dont want to damage it >.< lol

Well!

operation partial success.
I decided against removing the arm for fear of causing further damage. I did loosen the spear from the base however so I could move it further from the body.

Then I run a tiny trickle of uber hot water from the tap and carefully held the offending bent bit underneath it while keenly trying to avoid wetting the rest of the model/burning myself!.

I managed to straighten it now so it at least looks acceptable, can just cover up the tiny bend @ the very bottom so yay lol.

I've mostly been looking at some of the replacement parts for Rhinos and Land Raiders to spice up my Grey Knights' vehicles. Has anyone had issues with those sorts of things? It seems like they would be less prone to these issues, since they're mostly just decorative pieces...

Aldheim wrote:I've mostly been looking at some of the replacement parts for Rhinos and Land Raiders to spice up my Grey Knights' vehicles. Has anyone had issues with those sorts of things? It seems like they would be less prone to these issues, since they're mostly just decorative pieces...

They seem like they'll fit right in for the Rhino or Land Raider. You may need to trim the front door a bit on the LR though.

As a word of warning: you will have to do a lot of trimming on the doors for the rear of the sponson on a Land Raider Mk II kit. It looks like they'll plug right in, but they won't.