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Heard that about dettol a few times, if it happens apparently you need to do the toothbrush scrub with more dettol and not water.

Well after trawling the interwebs, the consensus seems to be that soaking a model with green-stuff on it is going to mess up the green stuff if you've modelled details with it, and that even simple green with make it turn rubbery and lose cohesion with the model. Now I'm really nervous about painting my Wood Eldar Wraithlord .

Oh, and as I saw this on another thread and it made me laugh:- nail varnish remover of any kind will not give you chemical burns. It's nail varnish remover. It's used on fingers and there's no woman in the world who's been able to get it just on the nail itself. The cold and tingly feeling is the alcohol evaporating off your skin. Just avoid prolonged exposure. It will however probably eat rubber or latex gloves.

I usually (when I use the acetone version for my metal models) grab the model from the stripping bath, and drop it in a bowl of suddy water, swish it around a bit and then start scrubbing. This makes sure that the model stays wet, aiding in getting the paint off, and that the acetone or other stripping agents are diluted and no longer a problem.

Well, time to get my metal Seekers off their bases and dunked into a stripping bath I guess.

Lol tyranids have sensitive skin

I have had good results with dettol, (Only the Brown stuff works) it stinks and you can wash them 100 times and you will be able to smell it on the model! DETTOL is mint on Metal models and will not harm them, if you dip Plastics do not leave them over 24hours they will go soft.
Do not listen to people who say to dip in Dettol then in white spirits, you end up with a plastic model that looks like it was on the receiving end of a melta gun. Be very careful with models and chemicals, ensure that they are thoroughly washed and cleaned. The chemicals we use can interefere with the Primers and paints and ruin what you thought was brilliant ressurection.

The are also perhaps 2 or even 3 different polymers that GW have used to make there mini's over the years, i guess different chemicals may effect each one differently, but cheers for the info! saved me a bundle of money.

We have an Article on How To Strip... with three different methods up there. It would be really interesting to have more potential methods, seeing as people have so many favourite stripping materials. So far we've only got Super Clean/Purple Power, acetone and Dettol. Any takers to write up Simple Green, Fairy Power Spray, etc?

This is excellent, now i know how to sort my cheap bargains from Ebay. Thanks

Hi DakkaDakka! Someone here said Pinesol makes your models go all rubbery after an hour or two. But rather than avoiding it altogether, I just soaked some plastic daemonettes in Pinesol for 30 minutes. Most of the paint came off, and it didn't hurt the model glue joins. The plastic was unharmed, but there was a little paint left in the recesses.

One word of warning. I made the mistake of putting other models in the pinesol while a layer of clear sealant was still wet. You'd think it would come off easier, but the wet layer turns gummy and gooey...it's hard to scrub off. So make sure any spray coats you put on the model are well dry before stripping with Pinesol....

I'm glad to hear Simple Green works well, lack of strippability is the only thing I didn't like about plastics, and now it's not a problem

--- Be well, be blessed!
Frankie

Struggled quite a few times with Dettol, despite the fears that it makes plastics soft I never encountered that even after 4 weeks in there! Although it does leave a goopy oily residue which is a bitch to shift.

I now use Fairy Power spray. Squirt, quick rub with a toothbrush to get into all the nooks and crannies, 15 minutes later and a rinse and scrub and it's done. No messing, no long soaks, no residue, no environmental concerns, no headaches, no vapours that go Boom! AND you can do spot strips with it. If you ony want to strip a certain area of a model a careful application will do it.

Concur with you on Fairy Power Spray. I used to use Dettol alot but now I am completely converted to Fairy Power Spray. Its effective, not too nasty and also has the added advantage of shining your sink so the Wife thinks your brilliant.

DON'T USE DETTOL! IT STINKS AND MAKES A MESS USE FAIRY POWER SPRAY

In AUS we use Simple Green on plastics. Its safe for the mini and safe for you. No risk of liver damage, unless you drink the stuff

Thanks for the tutorial, and thanks to everyone else for all the discussions on alternative strippers!

Just a reply on the Cutex

Works a dream on the plastics with no side effects that i can see at all even after leaving it in for 30mins
works well on metals too

Thanks for the tip

you.....just made my posted question in another forum pointless...thanks. In all seriousnsess though great post, much appreciated.

Its taken the paint clean off. Thanx

Gentlemen and ladies the easiest way i have found is dot 3 non silicone break fluid fast and reletively cheap works wonders let soak over night and wash with warm soapy water to remove residue

dont know if it was said before, but i use the same stuff my bro uses on his "tobacco" pipe, Simple Green... wont dissolve the plastic, but it will erode super glue...so your gonna have to bust out the glue bottle (at least it dissolves whatever glue the previous owner used, it looks and feels like super glue)...only downside: models gotta soak for a while, a week to a month (enamels take longer to wear off)

jordanis wrote:dont know if it was said before...

Yes, at length.

As an addendum to this thread, I have recently been trying to strip a couple of distressed ebay rhinos that were absolutely caked in paint. I have tried the Fairy Power Spray and can't honestly recommend it. It worked OK but only after soaking in the stuff for hours, scrubbing furiously and using a scalpel to scrape the paint residue off. I ended up using a whole bottle of Fairy for two tanks.

I have used nail varnish remover in the past and it stripped some metal models beautifully. I am considering giving the acetone free stuff a go for some plastics and see how that handles it.

Recently used acetone free NVR on metal models and the result was incredible.
Have not tried it on plastic. However I did soak a few of the models a little too long and it really messed up their plastic bases (some went soft, others split).

Also get a good hard toothbrushfor scrubbing. None of this oral B nonsense!

I live in Australia and I found a product which is good for stripping paint. It's called Koala Kare degreaser (http://www.koalakare.com.au/home/products/industrial-products/degreaser-concentrate/). It can be bought from Supercheap Auto (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Koala-Kare-Degreaser-5-Litre.aspx?pid=30046#details) and is rather cheap. All you have to do is soak some models in it for atleast 24 hours and scrub them with an old toothbrush. It is biodegradable and non toxic and it does not harm plastic models.

bjm1702 wrote:I live in Australia and I found a product which is good for stripping paint. It's called Koala Kare degreaser (http://www.koalakare.com.au/home/products/industrial-products/degreaser-concentrate/). It can be bought from Supercheap Auto (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Koala-Kare-Degreaser-5-Litre.aspx?pid=30046#details) and is rather cheap. All you have to do is soak some models in it for atleast 24 hours and scrub them with an old toothbrush. It is biodegradable and non toxic and it does not harm plastic models.

To be fair, if you leave a model in any form of chemical cleaner for 24 hours, you will probably notice it at least starting to work, even with something like a basic bottle of window cleaner. Personally, I don't want to have models floating around in buckets of goo; I have a wife and a small child, and neither of them are pretty wild about that sort of thing. That's why I am hoping the acetone free nail varnish remover does the business - you literally soak the model for seconds few.

Cool man mite have to borrow my daughters nudge , nudge , wink ,wink , say no more

Hey, you might wanna watch the necromancy, it is against the rules...look at the last posts date before posting a reply...

edit: plus I hope that isn't ur real name, that would be unwise to have ur whole name available for the whole internet to see...

I tried this method with the a four mentioned acetone free nail polish remover. placed an old figure for about 1 minute and it totally melted so i would not use this again. so then tried simple green left figures in undiluted solution in sealed jar over night and no melting occurred work well .

nice one pal been looking for years of an easy way to strip plastic models without f**king'em

cheers

I you live in the States then Super Clean is the way to go.

I have a complete article on my blog in the tutorials section.
http://warfrog.blogspot.com/2011/08/saving-ebay-finds-part-2.html

I have stripped around 10,000 points of models for myself and others using these two methods. I have tried the others and these are far and away the best options I have found here in the states.

First off safety.
Super clean is considerably safer than oven cleaner, brake fluid, acetone, and most other witches brews that people are recommending

Cheap, around $8.00 a gallon and reusable





A good quality ultrasonic cleaner does the work for you. If you are looking into one of these, try to get one with a variable temperature heater but make sure you get a heated unit.
If you can find and afford one then buy a used medical grade Ultrasonic Cleaner, then fill it with super clean

Looks okay, why not use LAs totally awesome?

I'd really like to stress something about Simple Green.

Simple Green is a base. Basic burns are way more dangerous that acidic burn in the fact that you don't notice them right away.

If you aren't wearing gloves and your fingers feel "soapy", you need to stop and soak your hands in vinegar or another weak acid.

I have some permanent damage to a few of my fingers after being careless about not wearing gloves. So please for your own sake, remember to wear gloves.

Duff

BRAKE FLUID works extremely well on both plastic and metal models. It is cheap and you can obtain a lot of it.

THANK YOU!!!! omg i had this dumb idea of painting all my nids different colors..... i painted my gene stealers green, warriors red and my terms light blue =_= this will help so much! Question: does this strip the primer as well? cause i'l love to reprime them!