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o Oni o wrote:

InquisitorVaron wrote:I was wondering if this works on resin?

I was also curious about this, has anyone tried yet?

I'm unsure if someone already answered this, apologies if so!

I stripped my Finecast Emperor's Champion with Simple Green. Left it soaking for about 24 hours before taking a toothbrush to it. Toothbrush didn't do anything, so I ran it under a faucet and the primer came right off. I'm unsure of how FW's resin would react to Simple Green (or LATA) but Finecast strips just fine

Adam LongWalker wrote:

Brother_Khiros wrote:I've been soaking a metal model in some graffiti remover and that works well. I just put some plastic models in last night (the label says its safe on plastics), so later on today I'll check those out. If that doesn't work I'll try the rubbing alcohol. Thanks.

Using Graffiti remover should do the trick. I personally do not use the product due to the irritation to my lungs (petroleum distillates not orange based products which are also used as graffiti remover).

Ok, I just went and checked my plastic models after about a 24-36 hour soak. The varnish had come right off. However, as both models had at least 2 different coats of paint (what can I say, they were my first models ), they didn't quite come clean. But I've gotten most of the first layer removed, and some of the second. However, some pieces I can't tell if I'm still on the original coat of paint or if I've broken through to the primer, since my original color was the old Midnight Blue and the lighting over the sink sucks. So after their scrubbing, I've put them back in to soak, and I'll probably go another 24-36 hours.

Anyways, I use Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover. I'd recommend soaking models in it at least 24-36 hours for just a regular paint job. However, if you're like me and varnished them, soak for 12-24 hours, scrub them lightly to help finish removing the varnish, then soak again for probably another 24 hours or so. One major note, though. If you're going to strip metal models with this, DO NOT leave the model(s) in for more than 48 hours or so. You may end up having little 'growths' on the model, and it actually ate away at my Necron Lord a tiny bit. Nothing major, and thankfully it was mostly on his cloak, so I can swing it as damage. But there's a good pin-head sized crater in his arm and one in his staff that I'll have to fill in.

I've skimmed the thread...somewhat, and I'm not seeing an answer to my question. How does it effect super glue? Ive yet to find a figure that can withstand staying in one piece after bring soaked in superclean for a set period of time. I got 300 bucks worth of nids for 50 because of the state they were in with glue and all. Managed to fully recover everything because the superglue eventually weakens and breaks away. Does not work on plastic glue though, and I suspect nothing ever will because the whole bonding thing. Anyways, so how does it effect super glue? If it does nothing to it I'll stick with superclean.

Super glue will probably come off fairly easily in most situations, since there's no fusing, which is almost essentially what plastic glue does. Now, if you use plastic glue over paint, then the plastic wouldn't fuse together. I've had a couple of mine come apart while stripping because I made this novice error.

Hardly a novice error. Heck hardly an error. I tell everyone I know not to use the stuff. If your figure is permanently stuck in the same pose, you can no longer change equipment, the sell value drops drastically, and repainting it will be hard if you paint things in individual pieces.

I can see it's use if you're doing a showpiece or something that will never change.

Necroshea wrote:Hardly a novice error. Heck hardly an error. I tell everyone I know not to use the stuff. If your figure is permanently stuck in the same pose, you can no longer change equipment, the sell value drops drastically, and repainting it will be hard if you paint things in individual pieces.

I can see it's use if you're doing a showpiece or something that will never change.

I generally don't swap weapons on a model unless the cost is worth it. IE, I'll buy two boxes of Tac Marines and pose/arm them all how I want without thought of magnetizing or anything (maybe with the exception of backpacks). However, those Assault Terminators I want? Yea, I'll buy one set and mag them so I can swap the TH/SS and LC's in or out, depending on what I need them to do.

And sorry for being OT.

Oh you bastards! Dragging a fine thread such as this off topic. What do you think this place is DAKKA?! Oh wait....it is DAKKA. OT is fine as long as it doesnt get my baby locked is all

AK907554 wrote:Does anyone know of any other effective chemicals for stripping that can be found in america?

Personally I use Simple Green to good effect. Like was said in this article tho, if the primer was cheap & has been on there for a while, it tends to stain the mini itself. I've never considered it a problem as I always prime black anyway. I usually leave the models in for @ least 3 days (usually due to the fact that I work 3-4 12 hr shifts in a row) so I put them in there before I start my work week & scrub/clean them when my weekend starts.

I think I'm going to give this stuff a go & see how it works - I picked up some used Raiders/Ravagers a few weeks ago that look like 3 different people painted them - there's paint on top of paint on top of paint on top of... you get the idea.

~Vryce

I just took my aforementioned models out of their soak, and I'll say I've found the results to be about the same as when used Simple Green on some other pieces; not the greatest, but not too bad either. Part of it may just be the plastic has become stained. Also note that I never tried baking the Simple Green or the Krud Kutter, so I can't say if that would help.

I've tried this product the past few days. I've recently had disaster with GW White primer actually globbing and ruining the detail of the models and wanted to remove it to go back to black with models. I left my models in this product for 36 hours and never saw it get the results posted. I do have another bottle that I might retry it in a smaller container. (I submersed around 35 plastic models for 36 hours. No paint on it besides the primer. 5 models were primed black before I tried to reprime them white). I'm kinda a new at this hobby, and this was my first attempt at stripping anything. I may try simple green if this doesn't work...

Thought id tryt his out. Soaked my assault marines for a mere 4 hours, paint came off with ease, no loss of detail at all. Scrubbed clean with a medium bristle toothbrush. Works great!

Stoupe. I have not had that kind of reaction yet, this is good data never the less.

Stoupe wrote:I've tried this product the past few days. I've recently had disaster with GW White primer actually globbing and ruining the detail of the models and wanted to remove it to go back to black with models. I left my models in this product for 36 hours and never saw it get the results posted. I do have another bottle that I might retry it in a smaller container. (I submersed around 35 plastic models for 36 hours. No paint on it besides the primer. 5 models were primed black before I tried to reprime them white). I'm kinda a new at this hobby, and this was my first attempt at stripping anything. I may try simple green if this doesn't work...

... ... ...

If you didn't the first time, try scrubbing them with a toothbrush, and possibly soaking them again after a thorough scrubbing. It may take a bit more soaking/scrubbing if the primer gobbed up the details as well. Just a thought.

Brother_Khiros wrote:

Stoupe wrote:I've tried this product the past few days. I've recently had disaster with GW White primer actually globbing and ruining the detail of the models and wanted to remove it to go back to black with models. I left my models in this product for 36 hours and never saw it get the results posted. I do have another bottle that I might retry it in a smaller container. (I submersed around 35 plastic models for 36 hours. No paint on it besides the primer. 5 models were primed black before I tried to reprime them white). I'm kinda a new at this hobby, and this was my first attempt at stripping anything. I may try simple green if this doesn't work...

... ... ...

If you didn't the first time, try scrubbing them with a toothbrush, and possibly soaking them again after a thorough scrubbing. It may take a bit more soaking/scrubbing if the primer gobbed up the details as well. Just a thought.

Did it the first time. This time I'm making a bit more documentation to make sure I'm doing things 100% properly. Trying again with LATA's (Bought 2 of the spray bottles when I was there so figured why not).

Put 20 skaven clanrats, 10 forest goblins (the riders, banner, and drum), and 5 eldar dire avengers in a tub at about 6:30 PM on 6/23/11. Like so:


Filled the tub with LATA (note: it seems I didn't have enough to completely emerse the models this time, however all thats sticking out is a mm or 2 of the bases.):


Put cover on the tub:


Time to let the models have a bath for a bit.... I did realize something though about the dire avengers. They were originally primed black underneath the white. You could still see it over the white. Now the black primer is gone from underneath the white primer... ing wierd.

devilution wrote:Could you find something like this in Europe?

There's dattol, it's like a disinfectant.

o Oni o wrote:

o Oni o wrote:

InquisitorVaron wrote:I was wondering if this works on resin?

I was also curious about this, has anyone tried yet?

I'm unsure if someone already answered this, apologies if so!

I stripped my Finecast Emperor's Champion with Simple Green. Left it soaking for about 24 hours before taking a toothbrush to it. Toothbrush didn't do anything, so I ran it under a faucet and the primer came right off. I'm unsure of how FW's resin would react to Simple Green (or LATA) but Finecast strips just fine

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar!

Stoupe wrote:Did it the first time. This time I'm making a bit more documentation to make sure I'm doing things 100% properly. Trying again with LATA's (Bought 2 of the spray bottles when I was there so figured why not).

Put 20 skaven clanrats, 10 forest goblins (the riders, banner, and drum), and 5 eldar dire avengers in a tub at about 6:30 PM on 6/23/11. Like so:


Filled the tub with LATA (note: it seems I didn't have enough to completely emerse the models this time, however all thats sticking out is a mm or 2 of the bases.):


Put cover on the tub:


Time to let the models have a bath for a bit.... I did realize something though about the dire avengers. They were originally primed black underneath the white. You could still see it over the white. Now the black primer is gone from underneath the white primer... ing wierd.

First, that tub looks suspiciously like one of the containers from My Fit Foods (I use them as bitz boxes, or to carry around a couple of the projects I'm working on. I can actually pack them into my tool box that's been re-purposed as a painting supplies box ).

Second, I've never tried LATA, nor do I ever prime white, but the results shouldn't be too different. Also, since its just part of the base sticking out of the liquid, it should matter too much, unless you were trying to weaken some glue (I was when I stripped mine).

Brake Fluid works well. Had plastic and metal models soaking in it for just over 4 hours (I think) and a plastic model that I coudlnt even see the face on it came out compeltely clear. Interstingly enough thoguh it appears to work better on plastics than metal. Will resoak the metal to see what happens and it also seems to attack plastic glue slightly but apart from that it's all good and fast and should be avalable in any good garage (that's where I got mine).

Cheers

JamesG_89

I tried this on some trial and error paintjob marines and ICs and it worked really well. One thing - some paint is still in the recesses on a few of the models. I soaked them for 24 hours and used a brush to clean them. Do you suggest another 24-36 hour bath to loosen the recess paint?

I bought some Space Marines on Ebay, been trying the simple green method right now. Been soaking about 15 plastic/metal figures for about 4 days. Its coming off, layer by layer. I'm not sure what type of paints the guy used before.

I'm going to try some of the LATA next time, and I have a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol I'm going to give a try.

thanks man!

The paint that wont go away


I mentioned this somewhere in this thread, but hell its been 6 pages or so, so who the hell knows about it now

Yea MOST the paint will come off, but sometimes in the deep cracks/crevices will hold onto paint like a mom to her child. When that happens, or if youve got REALLY tough paint, just skim the goop from the LATA and let soak for longer. My brother has repainted his SM chapter a good 3 or 4 times depending on the model, so he had some issues on a few, and he found just leaving them in the LATA for a few days longer and the stuff just falls off.

Really the 24hours thing is a basic guide. If its 1 coat of just standard stuff and not thick, then 24hours is good enough. But depending on primers/paints/thickness it can take longer, but that goes for ANY paint stripping method.

Well here is some good info for everyone that checks out this guide. I have tried Simple Green, 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, and LATA, and here are the results.

Simple Green - put about 15 metal and plastic minis in about two weeks ago. I waited 24 hours before I removed them the first time, and it got the first few layers off, but seems to
have a hard time with primer. I got these minis on Ebay so not sure what primer was used. I've taken them out daily and used a toothbrush on them, and doesn't seem to
do much else. So Simple Green works, but very slow, and doesn't really work on primer to well. Now just to let you know, this was from a spray bottle I bought from
Wal-Mart. It might work better if in a concentrated form.

I give Simple Green 3 stars - takes a bit of time, but can be bought at Dollar Store, and doesn't effect plastic details or any glue that I noticed.

91% Isopropyl Alcohol - used this on some metal minis and then one plastic mini. Worked really good on the metal minis, stripped the paint all the way down to bare metal. This was after
24 hours of soaking. Didn't work as well on plastic mini. Didn't do any damage, but gets it down to primer coat, and has a hard time there. About the same as
Simple Green.

I give 91% Isopropyl Alcohol 2 stars - Works good on metal, really good for a final clean on metal, was what I used working in a Sheet Metal shop in the Army,
About the same as Simple Green for plastic, but more expensive.

LA's Totally Awesome - Bought some of this LATA from the Dollar Store, and used it on 10 minis, both plastic and metal. Used a toothbrush on them after a 24 hour soak, and it
worked great. On the metal minis, cleaned off 99% of the paint, and on some, was already stripping some paint off, before I even touched them. It also
dissolved the glue used to hold the metal minis together, not sure the type used, since this are minis bought on Ebay. As for the plastic minis, worked just as
good. Took off about 85% of the paint in the first try. Like King Cracker said in the original post, it does stain the plastic, but not bad. I'm going to let the
plastic soak another 24 hours and see if the rest comes off. It didn't dissolve the glue on the plastic minis though.

I give LATA 5 stars - Cheap, fast, and gets the job done.

Hope this is helpful, and Thanks King Cracker, good find on your part, and passing the word along.

Great tutorial, KC. I'll definitely have to try this out, as I have a big batch of Marines awaiting a new life. Also, odd coincidence, there's a Dollar Tree(25 years and everything's still a dollar!) acroos the street from my apartment where my fiance works. I can get a gallon jug of LATA there, for a buck of course, and a pack or 8 toothbrushes. Hell, I can even snag some single-use aluminum pasta pans from work for free. Hopefully I'll have some bare plastic Marines to paint and convert soon.

Jon

Has anyone seen their metal minis come out dark and with a texture after using LATA to strip them?

It works great!

Havok210 wrote:Has anyone seen their metal minis come out dark and with a texture after using LATA to strip them?

Nope, nothing even close. Maybe something from the paint used???


And wow, I honestly forgot this thread was here, and I wrote the damn thing

It comes out grey like the color of unprimed plastic. I did not think paint would actually stain the metal.

Nice i will try this

Havok210 wrote:Has anyone seen their metal minis come out dark and with a texture after using LATA to strip them?

Yes depending on the length of time in Superclean and temperature of the bath. It is not staining so much as oxidation it does not affect primers ability to adhere to the model, only the look of the clean figure. Similar to the patina a old piece of pewter takes on. If anyone knows how to restore minis back to shiny instead of the old yellowed or graying metal let me know please.