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 warboss wrote:
Do the newer Reaper Black and USA materials have the same recommendation to *NOT* prime them before painting like the original Bones did?

I've used brush on primer with no problems, don't know about the spray on kind though.

I've primed Bones USA with GW Chaos Black spray and had no issues, Warboss.

Thanks to you both. I use a spray primer (typically Krylon as it's half the price of wargaming specific primer and has excellent thin and even coverage to the last seconds of paint in the can) and didn't know if I would end up dissolving part of the models. I'll probably try it on the underside/hidden pieces first just in case though. I've been curious to try gesso/brush on primer but the ease of spray for me (weather/temperature/humidity permitting!) has typically been the deciding factor.

The old white bones seem to have that tacky issue, even for vallejo/badger primers through airbrush. I havent noticed any issues with bones black, bones USA, or their 3d printed models.

I don’t know if it’s the same formula, but I sprayed a bunch of CAV Bones minis, and the stuff from the second kickstarter was not tacky while the stuff from the first kickstarter is tacky FOREVER.

Only bones models i ever had the tacky issue on was some translucent water elementals from the first kickstarter. The translucent fire elementals i got at the same time were fine.

I've used GW, army painter and halfords primer on others and all fine.

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I don’t know if it’s the same formula, but I sprayed a bunch of CAV Bones minis, and the stuff from the second kickstarter was not tacky while the stuff from the first kickstarter is tacky FOREVER.

This was crushing to me...

Then I discovered that Testors rattlecan Dullcoat reversed this... I sprayed this over my eternally-tacky, Bones 1 minis and was amazed to see the tackyness went away.

I had to spend through the nose for the stuff (four tiny rattlecans for $35 or something...) but it saved nearly two dozen paintjobs that I had assumed were just ruined. If you're able to try it, let me know if it works for you too.

They’re all in storage at the moment, but I’ll give that a try next time we decide to play a tank game. Thanks!

Reaper thread on priming Bones Black and Bones USA. Short answer, prime them:

"I've had Issue where my base layer kept sliding around and it acted like a wash instead of paint. I gave up on not priming and the cost of time saves me later, as well as delivers consistent results. "

https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/102181-do-you-prime-bones-black-and-usa-black-models/

Personally, I paint with different colored brush-on primers even before prepping. Easier to see mold lines, or at least I can't pretend I'm not seeing them.

 pancakeonions wrote:

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I don’t know if it’s the same formula, but I sprayed a bunch of CAV Bones minis, and the stuff from the second kickstarter was not tacky while the stuff from the first kickstarter is tacky FOREVER.

This was crushing to me...

Then I discovered that Testors rattlecan Dullcoat reversed this... I sprayed this over my eternally-tacky, Bones 1 minis and was amazed to see the tackyness went away.

I had to spend through the nose for the stuff (four tiny rattlecans for $35 or something...) but it saved nearly two dozen paintjobs that I had assumed were just ruined. If you're able to try it, let me know if it works for you too.

That's a great solution. Admittedly it's still likely tacky underneath the new layer of dullcoat but the point is to get the surface touchable without potentially damaging it and I'm glad that it worked.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 ced1106 wrote:
Reaper thread on priming Bones Black and Bones USA. Short answer, prime them:

"I've had Issue where my base layer kept sliding around and it acted like a wash instead of paint. I gave up on not priming and the cost of time saves me later, as well as delivers consistent results. "

https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/102181-do-you-prime-bones-black-and-usa-black-models/

Personally, I paint with different colored brush-on primers even before prepping. Easier to see mold lines, or at least I can't pretend I'm not seeing them.

I'm a bit surprised to see so many folks using brush on primers. No dig on them as I've never tried it though but none of the friends I've had in the tabletop gaming hobby have ever used it but I'm glad an alternative exists. Thanks for the link and I'll take a look there. I've already decided to eventually spray prime but I'm trying out my first attempt with oyumaru press moulding a part right now first for a magnetized conversion for my ogre porter. I'd like for him to have some weapons since I hope to one day use him as an RPG character fig.

> I'm a bit surprised to see so many folks using brush on primers.

Offhand, maybe they're painting at night, or are only painting a few miniatures at a time. Myself, I'll spray prime sprues and a pile of terrain, and would spray prime an army if I had one. But, if it's less than a handful of miniatures at a time, brush priming isn't any different than painting. Also, with pre-assembled soft plastic, the mold lines are more of a chore (eg. easier to miss) than sprue hard plastic. Not fun spray painting a batch of miniatures, only to find you missed those mold lines. I actually use colored primers as basecoats, going back and forth between colored primer and finding yet another mold line or gap.

I brush undercoat a lot because 50% of the time it is below spray primer temperature where I live.

FWIW, I was doing some hobby work today and decided to actually read the back of the retail box for the bones black fig I got and it says you don't have to use primer. I doubt that I'll go that route but since I asked the question I figured I'd post an update.

you don't for PVC generally (but you should wash it). The reason people use brush on primer is PVC can react with spray primer and become tacky that will bleed through your paints. It's very hard to get rid off, sometimes impossible.

I use brush on primer as I want my models all either white or black when I start painting them and primer is cheaper then regular paint.

 warboss wrote:
FWIW, I was doing some hobby work today and decided to actually read the back of the retail box for the bones black fig I got and it says you don't have to use primer. I doubt that I'll go that route but since I asked the question I figured I'd post an update.

I tried that and quickly abandoned it as the paints I used (citadel IIRC) just didn't get decent coverage. A quick layer of Vellejo brush on primer solved the issue.

3 weeks left in 2023 and things are still sneaking out the door.



A very reasonably priced 'Amber Dragon'. No word on whether or not it poops on your bed.



A Nagendra Shield Maiden, and yes the snake woman has a boob place.



This is deep cut, a Catoblepas, a swamp monster so hideous that if you look at it you will d...

{signal lost}

Today, Dec 15, is the last day to take advantage of the 12 Days promotion.




https://www.reapermini.com/12days


And if you want MORE CHRISTMAS stuff, here you go. Everything from a Nativity Scene to Succubus Santa.

https://www.reapermini.com/search/christmas

Last year I bought a couple Nativity scenes and painted them for my family.

It was a very cool gift.

Alas, it is now time to pack away this thread and put it next to our Barbenheimer T-shirts and Taylor Swift tickets as we say farewell to the things of 2023.

Fortunately an end to this year just means a start to a new year and new thread for 2024!


https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/812609.page#11627884