Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Howard A Treesong wrote:

squilverine wrote:Personaly I have to say I can't stand them. I think they are cheap and nasty and the amount of cleaning up required puts me off.

I don't understand the metal hate. It's not like metal is *that* difficult to work with is it? With people complaining that it takes a bit more rubbing down to clean up than plastic and that it's such an inconvenience to pin something, oh the horror.

Multi-part metal assemblies *are not* as durable as bonded plastic or resin parts. This is empirical fact based on the nature of the joins. The only advantage well-made metal models have over well-made resin models is the heft, which some people enjoy, however quaint. Resin is easier to cut, easier to glue, bonds better, holds paint better, and typically cleans up faster.

Prometheum5 wrote:

Howard A Treesong wrote:

squilverine wrote:Personaly I have to say I can't stand them. I think they are cheap and nasty and the amount of cleaning up required puts me off.

I don't understand the metal hate. It's not like metal is *that* difficult to work with is it? With people complaining that it takes a bit more rubbing down to clean up than plastic and that it's such an inconvenience to pin something, oh the horror.

Multi-part metal assemblies *are not* as durable as bonded plastic or resin parts. This is empirical fact based on the nature of the joins. The only advantage well-made metal models have over well-made resin models is the heft, which some people enjoy, however quaint. Resin is easier to cut, easier to glue, bonds better, holds paint better, and typically cleans up faster.

First, i dont agree with the cleans up faster , by far thats not the case.

Its as if you ignored the whole miscast , air bubble , warping issue , and just based the whole finecast product on their "what should have been"

carmachu wrote:

brother_zach wrote:

Yeah I saw the photos, I also saw sharper details on the Finecast Model, as did other users.

Is it enough to merit Finecast as a gift from the Gods?

Regardless on the medium they were cast in, we would have paid nearly the same price for a metal model with the anual price increase.

Not onced primed. They were the same.

So what if the price would have gone up. Metal is superior to the soft stuff.

Both parts of that statement are personal opinions.

Having had several metal models that were later made in finecast, I can attest to seeing a difference in detail. That doesen't mean that it's concrete throught though.

Prometheum5 wrote:

Howard A Treesong wrote:

squilverine wrote:Personaly I have to say I can't stand them. I think they are cheap and nasty and the amount of cleaning up required puts me off.

I don't understand the metal hate. It's not like metal is *that* difficult to work with is it? With people complaining that it takes a bit more rubbing down to clean up than plastic and that it's such an inconvenience to pin something, oh the horror.

Multi-part metal assemblies *are not* as durable as bonded plastic or resin parts. This is empirical fact based on the nature of the joins. The only advantage well-made metal models have over well-made resin models is the heft, which some people enjoy, however quaint. Resin is easier to cut, easier to glue, bonds better, holds paint better, and typically cleans up faster.

I would say this is mostly true in a sense. However, highly skilled veteran hobbyists can make any metal model rock solid if they put the time into it and the proper combination of pinning, green stuff, and glue. I would agree, resin and plastic are less likely to break at a join in say, a short fall from the table edge, however I have never had a metal sword snap in two on me, and cannot even begin to tell you how many of my DKoK swords and bayonets have broken over the years from things as simple as removing them from the case, etc.

For the average hobbyist, plastic is the ideal medium, in my opinion. It offers the best of both worlds, with an ideal balance of durability and detail. Resin is more on the delicate side of the isle, and metal on the durable (as a material) - but in the case of awkward, multipart metal kits, you are right in a sense, the metal can be tougher for the average person to keep together. For the record, i have a War Hydra that I spent a good deal of time on properly pinning, greenstuffing, and gluing, and it took a fall from a table edge once and miraculously the only thing that happened was one of the heads became slightly wobbly, which I fixed with, you guessed it, a fresh round of green stuff and glue (original pin was still solidly in place). After a little paint you can't even tell it ever fell. Obviously YMMV, if it had landed differently, it could have been a different story. But if done right, metal can be plenty durable enough at the assembly points. Nothing is going to withstand serious punishment no matter the material used None of these models would survive being hurled out of a moving car at 60 mph, for example. If my War Hydra were resin, however, I'd be much more concerned about the various spikes breaking, etc, and would be worried a head or two would snap off in the middle of the neck with little fragments being lost entirely if it hit the floor. With metal, the parts may have come apart at the join, but at least it was at the join and a natural fix (for me at least), rather than in some middle area where it could potentially shatter somewhat.

Similarly, I have a set of metal Blood Knights that have never, and I mean never come loose. I pinned/greenstuffed them so well when people pick them up they often ask me if they are one-piece "chunk of metal" models. It all comes down to hobbyist skill and the quality of the model's joins. Some models are horrible for this, I understand, and there is just nothing much you can do about it. A good friend of mine assembled his hierophant bio-titan and the resin legs began to buckle because there was so much weight on the tips of the claws. He eventually had to drill a huge hole through each leg and put some pretty seriously thick brass rod through them and run it half way up each leg almost. It was very stressful watching him go through this because of the cost of the model and how delicate the resin was - everyone in the room was waiting for things to snap. Luckily, because he took it slow (the better part of a day to do it), things worked out for him with only mild "powdering" of the resin near the entry points of the rods. The point here is, resin isn't ideal in every case, and neither is metal - but for smaller blister packed characters, I think metal was just fine and barring a pin-job or two, wouldn't have needed a resin replacement. I can see resin being better for SOME models, however, just not the majority. And looking at all these comparison photos, I can honestly say with conviction that the fineco$t stuff is not superior at all, it's about the same, really, with a tendency for more noticeable defects happening in faces, etc than I or those in my gaming groups, were used to seeing.

My two cents. Not everyone will agree, I understand this, but I know some of the vets out there know where I am coming from and will see the point I am making.

Prometheum5 wrote:

Multi-part metal assemblies *are not* as durable as bonded plastic or resin parts. This is empirical fact based on the nature of the joins.

Then your using the wrong glue. I have old second edition lictors I glued in the back claws, and held forever, and I could swing them on my finger and they held just fine without breaking....

carmachu wrote:

Prometheum5 wrote:

Multi-part metal assemblies *are not* as durable as bonded plastic or resin parts. This is empirical fact based on the nature of the joins.

Then your using the wrong glue. I have old second edition lictors I glued in the back claws, and held forever, and I could swing them on my finger and they held just fine without breaking....

Im agreeing with him , because all the old miniatures given to me are bonded by this mysterious type of glue ( to the point that the metal broke before i can separate the arm from body ) , and its certainly not the same super glue we use now.

Im guessing its some sort of epoxy?

Indeed, the type of glue used has a HUGE impact on the quality of a metal model's assembly. I once saw a kid trying to build an old metal space marine landspeeder with PLASTIC glue and the thing actually held together....for a few seconds...before it sort of slipped apart. I handed him whatever the glue I was using was at the time, and we spritzed on some zip-kicker and the thing held together fine for his game later that day.

I've glued metal models together with clag... it works as long as you dont try to pull it apart.

Most people now-a-days dont know how to use superglue and end up putting big globs of it on stuff which results in a less than ideal bond...

I'm yet to try out the finecast stuff, but i suspect that it will be less prone to breakage at glued points because of the less long term stress on the bond due to weight.

Also keep in mind your 'older models that never break' were probably put together with a different forumla of glue that, shy of using epoxy resin, you wont get a similar bond quality from current day glues.

Waaagh_Gonads wrote:I think one of the main problems with the release was that GW was so secretive with the change over (that they now say they had been working on for 2 years) up until 3-4 months ago only a handful of people outside the development team knew anything about it.
(...)
They made out in WD that the secrecy was a virtue.
It was not.

Funny thing is, they continue the secrecy about Finecast products:
All Finecast releases for this month are kept secret on the Newsposter for all stores.
All Finecast releases for this month are kept secret on the store's preorder form.
That includes the complete Tomb King June release, Wracks, Grotesques and Haemucnuli.
Like they don't want anyone to know about Finecast products, so noone buys them.
Another instance of GW's famous anti-marketing to artificially lower the sales of their products.

Waaagh_Gonads wrote:

AvatarForm wrote:

Alpharius wrote:OK, at 54 pages in counting, this thread has almost reached its conclusion.

Please remember to stay on topic, stay polite...

This is the only public warning that will be posted.

After this, it will be Official Warnings and possibly Suspensions.

Thanks!

Does it really count if its not in RED?

On Topic: I have challeneged my local GW store to provide me with a flawless Finecast Canis Wolfborn...

I wonder how many kits they will be required to open in order to rise to the challenge.

Yes.

It would be difficult to argue that that post was anything but a clear moderation type post.
Some of us don't use red.

I think somebody missed the part where I began my post with a joke...

Cruentus wrote: The good: 3) GW customer service

Hmmm.... I assume you did not have to mail the metal one back first? GW CS made me mail in all the boxes with the miscast resin figures before they shipped out replacements (the guy on the phone practically implied that I am trying to cheat them out of a bunch of miniatures.) I guess the more you buy, the more junk your get, the worse GW CS will treat you.

Back on topic: how are the thin arms and syringes? I am worried that they will just twist or snap off. I have 2 of resin Urien on order to use as Humunculi.

Thrax wrote:
I would say this is mostly true in a sense. However, highly skilled veteran hobbyists can make any metal model rock solid if they put the time into it and the proper combination of pinning, green stuff, and glue. I would agree, resin and plastic are less likely to break at a join in say, a short fall from the table edge, however I have never had a metal sword snap in two on me, and cannot even begin to tell you how many of my DKoK swords and bayonets have broken over the years from things as simple as removing them from the case, etc.

For the average hobbyist, plastic is the ideal medium, in my opinion. It offers the best of both worlds, with an ideal balance of durability and detail. Resin is more on the delicate side of the isle, and metal on the durable (as a material) - but in the case of awkward, multipart metal kits, you are right in a sense, the metal can be tougher for the average person to keep together. For the record, i have a War Hydra that I spent a good deal of time on properly pinning, greenstuffing, and gluing, and it took a fall from a table edge once and miraculously the only thing that happened was one of the heads became slightly wobbly, which I fixed with, you guessed it, a fresh round of green stuff and glue (original pin was still solidly in place). After a little paint you can't even tell it ever fell. Obviously YMMV, if it had landed differently, it could have been a different story. But if done right, metal can be plenty durable enough at the assembly points. Nothing is going to withstand serious punishment no matter the material used None of these models would survive being hurled out of a moving car at 60 mph, for example. If my War Hydra were resin, however, I'd be much more concerned about the various spikes breaking, etc, and would be worried a head or two would snap off in the middle of the neck with little fragments being lost entirely if it hit the floor. With metal, the parts may have come apart at the join, but at least it was at the join and a natural fix (for me at least), rather than in some middle area where it could potentially shatter somewhat.

Similarly, I have a set of metal Blood Knights that have never, and I mean never come loose. I pinned/greenstuffed them so well when people pick them up they often ask me if they are one-piece "chunk of metal" models. It all comes down to hobbyist skill and the quality of the model's joins. Some models are horrible for this, I understand, and there is just nothing much you can do about it. A good friend of mine assembled his hierophant bio-titan and the resin legs began to buckle because there was so much weight on the tips of the claws. He eventually had to drill a huge hole through each leg and put some pretty seriously thick brass rod through them and run it half way up each leg almost. It was very stressful watching him go through this because of the cost of the model and how delicate the resin was - everyone in the room was waiting for things to snap. Luckily, because he took it slow (the better part of a day to do it), things worked out for him with only mild "powdering" of the resin near the entry points of the rods. The point here is, resin isn't ideal in every case, and neither is metal - but for smaller blister packed characters, I think metal was just fine and barring a pin-job or two, wouldn't have needed a resin replacement. I can see resin being better for SOME models, however, just not the majority. And looking at all these comparison photos, I can honestly say with conviction that the fineco$t stuff is not superior at all, it's about the same, really, with a tendency for more noticeable defects happening in faces, etc than I or those in my gaming groups, were used to seeing.

My two cents. Not everyone will agree, I understand this, but I know some of the vets out there know where I am coming from and will see the point I am making.

I have sat on the sidelines watching all this go on and this has to be one of the best posts I've seen . Not everyone is going to agree and no one likes price rises .

I agree, it was a very well written post.

Thrax makes plenty of fair points, and as he points out, much of a model's durability does come down to the builder. Then again, think of how much effort is involved with pinning and GSing and saying sacred incantations and using long-cure epoxies on some of those metal models, when in one step and a dot of superglue those resin models go together as strong as your pinned labor.

thebadabwar wrote:

Cruentus wrote: The good: 3) GW customer service

Hmmm.... I assume you did not have to mail the metal one back first? GW CS made me mail in all the boxes with the miscast resin figures before they shipped out replacements (the guy on the phone practically implied that I am trying to cheat them out of a bunch of miniatures.) I guess the more you buy, the more junk your get, the worse GW CS will treat you.

Back on topic: how are the thin arms and syringes? I am worried that they will just twist or snap off. I have 2 of resin Urien on order to use as Humunculi.

No, I didn't have to mail back the first one. Maybe because it was metal? Its interesting that you had to mail them back, as the CS rep specifically told me that their CS and return policies had not changed (i.e. you wouldn't have to mail it back). Perhaps they wanted to see the miscasts so that they could add extra vents/etc to the mold to address it? (I don't know, pure speculation based on some people's reports that they've seen different sprues of the same minis in later iterations.)

The thin arms and syringes are in perfect condition, surrounded by the thin membrane of resin. I haven't tried to remove them from the sprue yet, I'm still plotting that particular extraction, so as to avoid snapping anything. I'm going to try to carefully hobby knife a bit around the bitz, leaving them attached to the sprue, figuring that'll be the strongest point, and if it pops off the sprue, that's where I'd cut it anyway.

It comes down to this -

Prices went up
Quality went down
no consideration for loyal customers stayed the same

Thrax wrote:

Prometheum5 wrote:

Howard A Treesong wrote:

squilverine wrote:Personaly I have to say I can't stand them. I think they are cheap and nasty and the amount of cleaning up required puts me off.

I don't understand the metal hate. It's not like metal is *that* difficult to work with is it? With people complaining that it takes a bit more rubbing down to clean up than plastic and that it's such an inconvenience to pin something, oh the horror.

Multi-part metal assemblies *are not* as durable as bonded plastic or resin parts. This is empirical fact based on the nature of the joins. The only advantage well-made metal models have over well-made resin models is the heft, which some people enjoy, however quaint. Resin is easier to cut, easier to glue, bonds better, holds paint better, and typically cleans up faster.

I would say this is mostly true in a sense. However, highly skilled veteran hobbyists can make any metal model rock solid if they put the time into it and the proper combination of pinning, green stuff, and glue. I would agree, resin and plastic are less likely to break at a join in say, a short fall from the table edge, however I have never had a metal sword snap in two on me, and cannot even begin to tell you how many of my DKoK swords and bayonets have broken over the years from things as simple as removing them from the case, etc.

For the average hobbyist, plastic is the ideal medium, in my opinion. It offers the best of both worlds, with an ideal balance of durability and detail. Resin is more on the delicate side of the isle, and metal on the durable (as a material) - but in the case of awkward, multipart metal kits, you are right in a sense, the metal can be tougher for the average person to keep together. For the record, i have a War Hydra that I spent a good deal of time on properly pinning, greenstuffing, and gluing, and it took a fall from a table edge once and miraculously the only thing that happened was one of the heads became slightly wobbly, which I fixed with, you guessed it, a fresh round of green stuff and glue (original pin was still solidly in place). After a little paint you can't even tell it ever fell. Obviously YMMV, if it had landed differently, it could have been a different story. But if done right, metal can be plenty durable enough at the assembly points. Nothing is going to withstand serious punishment no matter the material used None of these models would survive being hurled out of a moving car at 60 mph, for example. If my War Hydra were resin, however, I'd be much more concerned about the various spikes breaking, etc, and would be worried a head or two would snap off in the middle of the neck with little fragments being lost entirely if it hit the floor. With metal, the parts may have come apart at the join, but at least it was at the join and a natural fix (for me at least), rather than in some middle area where it could potentially shatter somewhat.

Similarly, I have a set of metal Blood Knights that have never, and I mean never come loose. I pinned/greenstuffed them so well when people pick them up they often ask me if they are one-piece "chunk of metal" models. It all comes down to hobbyist skill and the quality of the model's joins. Some models are horrible for this, I understand, and there is just nothing much you can do about it. A good friend of mine assembled his hierophant bio-titan and the resin legs began to buckle because there was so much weight on the tips of the claws. He eventually had to drill a huge hole through each leg and put some pretty seriously thick brass rod through them and run it half way up each leg almost. It was very stressful watching him go through this because of the cost of the model and how delicate the resin was - everyone in the room was waiting for things to snap. Luckily, because he took it slow (the better part of a day to do it), things worked out for him with only mild "powdering" of the resin near the entry points of the rods. The point here is, resin isn't ideal in every case, and neither is metal - but for smaller blister packed characters, I think metal was just fine and barring a pin-job or two, wouldn't have needed a resin replacement. I can see resin being better for SOME models, however, just not the majority. And looking at all these comparison photos, I can honestly say with conviction that the fineco$t stuff is not superior at all, it's about the same, really, with a tendency for more noticeable defects happening in faces, etc than I or those in my gaming groups, were used to seeing.

My two cents. Not everyone will agree, I understand this, but I know some of the vets out there know where I am coming from and will see the point I am making.

Have you worked on finecast models first-hand yet?

Bought a few more, and the bond that superglue works on fiddly bits or huge bits is outstanding, far stronger and easier than metal.

I like metal figs as well, and have twenty years of experience in pinning and gluing and fixing...but these Finecast really do go together miraculously well.

I still have yet to see any warpage from heat...after being left in my garage in the Midwest (100degree heat index).

Don't leave models in your car-keep them in a case in your trunk, and don't leave them on windowsills were the sun directly hits them.

I have worked on fineco$t already, and that is the basis for my conclusions. I took care to state that the "joins" on the model, where the glue is applied, will hold together quite well with fineco$t, but less so with the average metal assembly (largely in part to the average hobbyist's skill level). My primary point is that fineco$t will be more shatter/chip prone than the metal models are, especially with the smaller bits and edges, etc such as swords, spikes, etc - the little fiddly bits that protrude from models), and that it has exhibited some miscast issues we haven't typically seen in metals, such as malformed faces due to air bubbles, etc.

As for my own resin models, those not fineco$t (haven't gotten the fineco$t completely painted yet) predominantly my Death Korps of Krieg army, has been subject to loads of broken little resin bits from bayonets, knives, swords, shovel handles, etc. The stuff just doesn't hold up well when you're putting it into a foam case, removing it from a foam case, handling it on the battlefield, etc. Other DKoK players will usually mention something similar if they game with their models away from home with any frequency.

So, essentially, yes fineco$t goes together easier, it's true - i've noticed that, but will the material itself hold up as well? All we can do is wait and watch.

Thrax wrote:My primary point is that fineco$t will be more shatter/chip prone than the metal models are, especially with the smaller bits and edges, etc such as swords, spikes, etc - the little fiddly bits that protrude from models), and that it has exhibited some miscast issues we haven't typically seen in metals, such as malformed faces due to air bubbles, etc.

The skull came off the tip of my shadowseer's staff. Instead of bending and weakening with metal fatigue, it breaks or shatters. I don't work with FW resis so cannot comment on that.

Forgeworld resin and finecast are very different thrax.

Forgeworld resin, if snapped, breaks pretty clean. Most of the time you can glue the bits back together and not even see a line if positioned well.

squilverine wrote:

Howard A Treesong wrote:

squilverine wrote:Personaly I have to say I can't stand them. I think they are cheap and nasty and the amount of cleaning up required puts me off.

I don't understand the metal hate. It's not like metal is *that* difficult to work with is it? With people complaining that it takes a bit more rubbing down to clean up than plastic and that it's such an inconvenience to pin something, oh the horror.

No metal hate here, I love metal figures, the weight of them certainly gives the feeling of quality. My comment was directed at the new resin miniatures. Both plastic and metals have their pro's and cons. I would say that there is more cleaning up required on plastics, however it is harder to remove lines and tags on metals so the effort required probably evens out.

I was more making a general comment about the dislike towards metal rather than you in particular, in fact I've seen you supporting use of metal miniatures quite a few times recently. I think the "metal haters" exaggerate the drawbacks of metal, it only takes a bit more time to work with and the material is much tougher than resin so once you make a figure it's going to last. I've pinned figures, it's no great hardship. I've been making metal models for 20 years, I don't have figures that 'fall apart' or on which 'the glue won't set'. And if you're worried about them breaking when you drop them on the floor well be more careful, and if someone thinks that these resin figures will just bounce when they hit the floor they are kidding themselves, instead of bending they will just snap bits off. There are still questions about how durable and stable the resin really is, due to distortion in the heat or if they corrode in some fashion over time. The current metal figures are reliable and robust enough to last my lifetime being largely chemically inert, the very old ones can suffer from the so called 'tin plague' but there are ways to avoid that and I think it's a lead issue which doesn't affect a lot of modern figures. This resin is a total unknown. Overall I would say that the resin is no improvement, they've just cashed in one set of drawbacks for another.

People talk about how crisp the detail is on the resin figures. Well how many people have a painting standard to take full advantage of that? I don't think I would get much benefit and I think I paint to a good standard so big whoopee. The other thing I've noticed in close up pictures is that the detail might be "sharp" but the surface of the figure looks quite rough and fibrous, unlike the smooth resin casting of a forgeworld figure.

My FLGS has decided after an initial burst on release to no longer stock finecast, although he will get them in if folks want to order them. His main stock in trade is new and 2nd hand GW stuff, although he does sell a lot of other stuff too.

His rationale is that the amount of returns he has had to handle has been a complete PITA, and its all bad customer relations for him as a businessman, particularly as he deals with a lot of kids who actually seem to find the finecast more difficult to assemble and prepare than the old metal models - which were a lot more forgiving for hamfisted modellers.

Personally I wouldn't touch finecast or any other of GW's overpriced stuff with a 10' pole, so this is no issue for me personally, but I thought it was an interest business decision for him to make. For his business he has found the costs of the transition outweigh the benefits. Other stores will vary though, and maybe he had a particularly bad experience at launch day - I wasn't around, so I can't say for definite.

Well, given the love GW has for any FLGS I'm surprised any of them would want to carry GW products. There is one shop here in Rochester MN where I could possibly get some 40k/Fantasy items right off the shelf and all they carry are plastic sets, primarily troop choices.

Anything more and I have to drive 1 to 2 hours depending on the selection I want to deal with.

Thats sort of the "starter" stock for independent retailers, GW requires them to carry and stock x amount of the core plastics, part of each of the three systems, and some of the rulebooks.

Also, I know FW resin and Fineco$t are different. My point is simply that they are both metal alternatives and neither is as durable a material as a properly-casted metal. Really not trying to say metal is perfect, as nothing is flawless, but less durable and more prone to "brittle-type" effects is what I am attempting to explain. FW resin can break relatively clean, but i've seen where the consistency has been off or something because the material has shattered as well. Fineco$t, in my experience, can be marred rather easily. Haven't yet tested it to see if it will shatter, like I said, time will reveal it all.

mikhaila wrote:

Sidstyler wrote:Not at my store, lol...if they were I'd just buy the metal incubi and DE characters.

Need about 30 metal incubi?) Someone just traded in his WOC army. His last project was to buy 30 or so Incubi to proxy as Slanesh Warriors with great weapons. Primed them on metal bases, and then switched armies. I'm dumping them to ebay soon.

Sadly, could have used them 6 weeks ago when painting 80 of these:

http://www.teamsauron.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=123323125

That's a lot of painted Incubi in that pic

No kidding. It's kind of awesome, but imagine how much those things must have cost, lol...

I was actually thinking about calling GW customer service myself, since after sitting down to clean up my Finecast incubi I found a few defects that pissed me off. Not just sharp edges being chipped off and stuff like I originally thought, but lots of bubbles removing detail like what you've seen people complaining about. Like on one of the trophy racks (that same pair of racks looks kind of odd at the ends, too, like the resin didn't fill the mold entirely), instead of a broken soulstone there's just a big hole where the gem is supposed to be, some guys are missing thumbs and fingers, and the worst one are the half-formed spikes on legs and arms. You could see that on one of the bodies in one of my photos originally, but it's on at least three pairs of the arms, too. Also, the sprue with the swords on it seems to have suffered a nasty mold shift because instead of just a mold line to clean, it's like the two parts didn't even match up properly, and I'm not sure if I can really fix that without destroying some of those details.

But judging from what I've been hearing on Dakka I decided not to bother, since I really don't feel like shipping them back and being out even more money when I'm still upset that I spent close to $40 on these damn models in the first place. There's no guarantee that the replacements will be any better, and I highly doubt they have any of the old metal ones lying around to give me instead, so...better learn how to sculpt!

It still could have been a whole lot worse though, but at this point I'm kind of wishing it was since I'd have to call them up and get them replaced, right now I've just got a ton of work to do and I'm not looking forward to it at all.

I am on my second set of Finecast models - the techmarine with servators. A set I loathe in metal cause of the backpack (yes i own the orginal set too). I ordered directly from GW. Got the set today - this set was crisp and clear (despite my experiance with the librarian) - except for the last sprue. That sprue had a heavy bolter servator, the techmarine's alternate scanner arm, and the servators saw/ drill arm. the scanner was missing the top portion, and the servator had a bubble right smack in the middle of his mush!!

GRRRRRRR...

Quick call tothe US GW customer service number and I have a brand new BOX set coming out to me. I do not have to return anything. I even asked the guy on the phone if he just wanted to send out the two parts. Nope I was told the new box set was on them and to call if it had any new defects . . . Whole process took all of five mintues... If you have defects - CALL THEM. Whats the worst they can do?

Whenever I have had to get a replacement part (IE tanks etc) - GW will send just the sprue (sprue a, c etc). Figures I have always gotten the part. For them to send a whole other box set, no queastions asked - wow my mind is blown!

legion4500 wrote:Whats the worst they can do?

Insinuate that I'm a liar trying to get free stuff?

I'm not sure why they would do that to thebadabwar, if it's true then I hope it was just because he was calling about several boxes at once because if I were the guy on the phone I can see why that might sound fishy.

Perhaps if you lack a receipt as a result of receiving the items as a gift, etc, you might need to send them in. I anticipate this scenario myself this month as it is my birthday soon and the wife will no doubt have gotten me some fineco$t Dark Eldar. Hopefully she kept the slips, but it is likely she did not and I will probably be sending it all into GW. *fingers-crossed*