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I only took it out on those that literally only said strip it and the panther guys witch I found out and now have ignored on the other site there from.

imark789 wrote:

jariksolo wrote:but yes I do take out my general frustration out on this forums a bit.

This is a problem. We are complete strangers. The only thing we share is a common hobby. Therefore, we are here only to provide suggestions and advice about that hobby, not to put up with you being in bad moods frequently. Find another way to deal with your stress rather than taking it out on us generally friendly dakkanauts? Do you realize how ridiculous and rude it is to take your frustration out on these complete strangers that are trying to help you? We came here because we wanted to help you with your painting, not to let you vent your frustration on us.

I tend to agree. I've gotten the feeling that you've seen people plain out offer you help, including myself, but you don't reply regarding a positive attitude toward any of our comments. It's all defensive. To be honest, I am sure the Mods have a close eye on this thread, but I'm honestly surprised it's still unlocked.

-J.

Agreed, Lock the thread it has gone nowhere slow.

Sarpedon_702 wrote:Agreed, Lock the thread it has gone nowhere slow.

I don't see the point to this or the comment above to lock. Threads are locked because the discussion is over (it's not) there's no new news (n/a) they go off topic too heavily (nope) or they turn into angry flame wars (none yet).

While Jarik may not follow advice well, and is defensive, good advice is still being given, and updates are posted fairly regularly. While you may not feel his painting is making progress, that's your opinion, and the thread does not need to be locked.

I've given you advice before (to the OP) but I have to say the best things you can do are: don't make excuses, and if people criticize something, take their comments seriously and see what you personally can change. We all can improve, so before getting defensive and shutting down, first look inward and be honest with yourself. This includes making excuses about the grammar of your posts. We are all busy people, telling people that you can't be bothered, don't have time, etc., is not a valid excuse. If somethings worth doing, it's worth doing right. This post here took me ~15 minutes to type out and read over to make sure it was what I wanted to say. Armies take years to build usually. Slow down, have some patience, and be more concerned with quality over quantity, it may be hard at first, but you'll be far more proud of what you accomplished at the end of the day.

Also, I'm not surprised the tie fighters weren't allowed to be used. I mentioned this to you via pm, but for scratchbuilds, the thing has to be perfect and ~as good or better than the GW model, or you're going to catch flak. There's a lot to be said for learning to walk before you can run, and in hobby terms, scratchbuilding is more of a "run" as far as difficulty goes. At present, I can still read the gift card as it wasn't even fully covered in paint.

A few keys for scratchbuilds:

-It's got to be an appropriate size for the model it's representing
-It has to appear to be the same unit type (bikes = bikes, things that fly = looks like it can fly, etc)
-It has to have the proper weapons/wargear (did your tie fighters have the weapons/wargear of the land speeder? I didn't see any guns modelled)
-Appropriate size base

Unless these things are met, you need to just use the GW kit. Remember, part of the enjoyment of the game for MANY people is playing against properly modelled armies that look like they're real. People are in this hobby for many different reasons, while you may not care a whole lot about modelling (as an example, I'm not saying you don't) you need to respect that the guy across the table from you might care quite a bit. It's just a matter respect for others at the end of the day.

Hey man, if this helps, here it is:

Stripping paint off is important because you will get a clean slate back to (close to ) factory. If you paint on top of other layers, it just gunks up the model. The colors change but it makes it worse. I know from experience, when I first started painting 40k, I never used to strip the models and I also used Testors enamels, UGH!

If Simple Green doesn't work for you, try the SuperClean, works wonders for me. I followed this tutorial in the article section:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

After that, once the model is ready to paint use a nice quality spray primer. I use Ultra Cover white, $5 at a hardware store. Covers beautifully, although I might be going with Vallejo next time.

After that, there are a few steps that can get you table top quality miniatures really quickly and I think that they've been covered already. If painting is not that important to you, that's okay, but I think it is part of the game.

Some decent undercoats and washes can give you TT quality and won't be too difficult. I don't know about e everyone else, but when I play this game, I play each game as a story. I don't play on pizza boxes and upturned cups, I want to play out a story.

That doesn't mean that each army I play against has to be Golden Demon quality, but it should look good on the table. Otherwise it detracts from the game. I think that may be the big reason that folks want you to repaint your army before they play against it. I don't think that it is malicious.

And we all have time and budget constraints that get in our way. But if you don't want to repaint your current army, that's your prerogative. Just maybe keep the suggestions listed here filed for the future.

As for me, I'd like to see this army get redone, it has potential. I'm still learning this as well. I am not new to the hobby but like I said earlier, I am new to the better painting techniques that everyone uses today. That, and I have decided to be the best painter I can be. Not everyone is going to be a great painter, just do your best. I'm not being malicious here, but it does seem like you fight every suggestion. Anyway, take this with a grain of salt, we are here to help, good luck.

Gorgrimm

The above is why it should be locked. We're just posting the same things over and over. Reiterating the same things over and over expecting different results is defined insanity.

I wasn't going to comment on the lock comments but target basically covered it. On the other forum I have this posted we finally found out that it was the primer that was the big thing I always thought primer was primer so next time I head to the lgs I'll pick up the army painter kind(this is what was suggested on the other thread) as they all said it was better then the Ceylon stuff I've been using. As for the ties I have said I love the tie idea and hate the speeder models especially the flying bases as for weapons they all had a flamer and something that resembled a mm on it but there hard to see in the pictures. What I had above was just the basic design I had planned to add some sprues to bulk out the wings or chop up my useless land raider for plastic for the wings. I also have a good deal of bits I could add to it what I may end up doing is buying 1 land speeder kit and try to convert tie speeder hybrids from 1 kit. the grammar I constantly have works open now so I type what I want throw it into works spell check it then throw it back it fixes some of my mistakes but not all .

If you have an auto parts store (NAPA, Oreilly's, etc.) closer than the lgs, you could also go for the DupliColor Sandable Primer. It's been great for me, and it's received lots of positive reviews. I think it's like 5.50 for a can.

As theres an auto parts store like a 5 minute walk from me I think its closer then my lgs I'll have to try that maybe when its not as hot outside.


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Just got some superclean and the duplicolor stuff so after i finish my paper ill try them out.

Ok a small update I can't work on most of my real army becuase I don't have gloves to strip them so I don't burn the crap out of my hands but like I said earler I got better primer so I tested it out on my biker captain and it looks much better I also converted up some arms for bjorn as hes magnatized so i made up a plasma cannon arm and a ccw with flamer arm so I can use him in hard boys if I can get there. When I can get out to walmart I'll get some gloves and slowly work on stripping my guys but I'm only doing 1 squad at a time and the first 3 I painted are up last as i want as much of my army painted (even if its badly painted) for hardboys plus the fact i think i read on that article that superclean unbonds superglue.

jariksolo wrote:I only took it out on those that literally only said strip it and the panther guys witch I found out and now have ignored on the other site there from.

Regardless, don't take your anger out on them...that is the advice they have for you, and what they would do if they were the ones working on this army. Please, please PLEASE use better grammar and punctuation, some of your sentences are barely coherent, and they run on and on...

The internets haz no rulz on da grammarz!

Sarpedon_702 wrote:The internets haz no rulz on da grammarz!

Actually it does, correct grammar and spelling is one of the rules on Dakka.

I was just being a smart ass.


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I am in complete agreement. It is rather difficult to read something without punctuation, spelling, and content corrections. But on a plus side it provides us with a challenge.

I'll try I have been putting everything into works and spell checking it lately but that doesn’t catch everything.

jariksolo wrote:I'll try I have been putting everything into works and spell checking it lately but that doesn’t catch everything.

Are you using Internet explorer? If so try this free spell check add-on http://www.iespell.com/

Good to hear that you got a decent primer, now just remember to thin your paints a bit and your stuff will start looking great.

Ok first model with new primer and my converted arms to make my ven dread more like bjorn.






that was my biker lord he was only unprimed model I had and I wanted to try out new primmer and I couldn’t strip anyone until I got gloves


plasma cannon conversion


flamer conversion


Front view

Good work, both of those models look like a good start.

Yes, I'm debating on trying to convert my ironclad into Bjorn as I can't match that skill on the ven dread with my current skills and paints. The biker just needs a brown sepia or flesh wash witch ever I can get and I think he’s done.

I think Devlan Mud would be best for you; it works great on ANY color. The primer switch and watering down your paints has made a HUGE difference; see what a little time and patience can accomplish?

Ironically that’s the only wash I was able to borrow so ill use it latter to finish the biker up.


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As I hated the white arms on the fully painted ven dread I decided to use my ironclad. I took of the huge plates grabbed the white arms and painted him up to look like he's been through centuries of war



he's fully magnatized so if he explodes I can leave his legs on the board for the objective.

I have the robed squad ,vader and one of my razor backs stripping now so I can work on repainting them after I finish my homework latter today.

Didn't notiuce that superclean eats at green stuff so hopefully whats left will harden if not I have a lot of work to do to fix up my robed guys and vader. Paint wise superclean took off far more then simplegreen no question just have to try and get all my strriping done before my brother gets home monday. having a bucket of a chemical that can burn you around with a 6 year old is waiting for an accident.

Yes it can, I keep my lidded container in the laundry room in a cabinet where the kids can't get to it. Great stuff though, sometimes the paint slides off before I even scrub.

Yeh, I use a posicle stick ocasionaly to submerge the tanks better and just touching the tank with the stick takes paint off. Glad I noticed that it eats green stuff before I stripped my sideous guy as hes nearly 50%green stuff.

I've really got to try this superclean stuff, I've always done the long hard road of simple green.

How is it interacting with the plastic/superglue? Is either one dissolving/being damaged that you can tell?

plastic it looks a little lighter then when you get it but no damage to details that I can see. glue it de-bonds it sometimes for some of my guys the arms fell of for some it didn’t but it was a lot easier to take a part afterwards if you want to.

jariksolo wrote:plastic it looks a little lighter then when you get it but no damage to details that I can see. glue it de-bonds it sometimes for some of my guys the arms fell of for some it didn’t but it was a lot easier to take a part afterwards if you want to.

Very nice, well, as some general advice, even if these are stripping much much better, leave them in for the long haul until they're really as clean as they're going to get. Nothing sucks more then half stripping, getting into painting and seeing you should have stripped a bit longer. Once the stripping is done I'd appreciate a picture of the stripped models as well, especcially that rhino, to see how clean it really got.

The rhino is stripping now. If you remember the khorne rhino i used at nova last year that was multiple colors from me trying dirt and what not I just stripped that and got everything except a lot of the crevices when I take the next batch out I'll take pics of both batches and post them.

jariksolo wrote:The rhino is stripping now. If you remember the khorne rhino i used at nova last year that was multiple colors from me trying dirt and what not I just stripped that and got everything except a lot of the crevices when I take the next batch out I'll take pics of both batches and post them.

Have you been hitting them with a toothbrush post stripping? That can help a lot with the crevices I find. My method is usually:

1) soak in chemicals of preference
2) take out using gloves in a work sink and scrub with toothbrush
3) rinse, see if it needs more stripping, if it does go back to #1

I think I'll be trying superclean for my next stripping project, as it sounds like it works much better than simple green