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 Paradigm wrote:
I wouldn't sweat it, to be honest. It took me about three weeks to work out that you had to play one card per round, not per turn

Well I just learned something new...

 darkPrince010 wrote:

 Paradigm wrote:
I wouldn't sweat it, to be honest. It took me about three weeks to work out that you had to play one card per round, not per turn

Well I just learned something new...

You may have done, but maybe not. Basically, it's one per whatever the longer one is (I still don't remember which is which), so what I wrote may be entirely wrong.

A round is the activation of all the models on a side.
A turn is the activation of models equal to your command value.

A round is made up of turns.

Yeah, so it is one card played/discarded per round.

At least. Unless you're trying to burn out your hand to be the guy with the most VPs. Seems like a legitimate way to win when either or both players may have trouble hitting 10, or 13 in the code 13 scraps.

That is true, I was just referring to the minimum you needed to play; for my first few games I was playing it 1 per turn and drawing a new card for every one I played. Needless to say, the games were over far faster.

Burning through once you have a good lead is a nice plan. On a similar note, what do people think about buying extra cards for your deck with leftover points? On one hand, you have longer to achieve your goals before timeout, and can be a little less conservative with cards, but on the other you can end up with too many cards to force an early close once you get a lead.

I think if you build your force in such a way that you don't think you'll be able to or trying to force an early end, extra cards may help you get that one special card you need to pull something out of the fire... It would be kind of a per-faction decision, some may be better at predicting such a thing than others.

I hadn't thought of intentionally depleting my deck to end the game, nice one!

So far we've found that games are short enough that there's no real need to be conservative with cards. We only came close to depleting a deck once, when the Enforcer player used a card on every single model activation.

Something I always forget is to track the VPs in Survive missions...I forget you get them per round. This did coincidentally lead me to deliberately start rattling through cards in my last game to force a draw wh things went wrong...only to realise at the end I had completely forget to track my Survival objective.

As someone who mainly uses Plague, I'm just wondering what people think of the Stage 1A? I ask as I get the impression that 3A Generals are more popular, presumably due to the 1A's cost and lack of speed. I think he can make a useful deterrent, creating a "danger zone" as no one wants to get within arm's reach. I'd say he can definitely have a psychological impact. And let's not forget, the times he actually gets into melee, you're glad you be brought him.

1A's are hilariously hard to kill as well.

The thing that we do for our games re: Survive is that we always track it in the open regardless of mission. Just like we always put dead dudes next to our upside down mission card, etc.

 Fezman wrote:

As someone who mainly uses Plague, I'm just wondering what people think of the Stage 1A? I ask as I get the impression that 3A Generals are more popular, presumably due to the 1A's cost and lack of speed. I think he can make a useful deterrent, creating a "danger zone" as no one wants to get within arm's reach. I'd say he can definitely have a psychological impact. And let's not forget, the times he actually gets into melee, you're glad you be brought him.

Both 1A and the general have their uses. The General is dirt cheap as leaders go, allowing you to conceivably pack 3 S2s (a nasty combo), while still getting decent command stats so they aren't slow. He's also easier to hide, but is far squishier.

On the other hand, the S1 can reliably tank most weapons in the game (with Really Tough he essentially has 2 armour that nothing can negate at the moment), and while he is slow it's a guaranteed kill against anything not a Terraton, Peacekeeper Captain or Mauler Ripper. Plague also get plenty of Move cards so he can be surprisingly speedy. He also has amazing command stats, giving you more control over your cards.

In Code 13 games, S1 all the way, in 70-pointers it's whether he's worth a General and a S2 or not.

 Paradigm wrote:
On the other hand, the S1 can reliably tank most weapons in the game (with Really Tough he essentially has 2 armour that nothing can negate at the moment),

Helfather has Irresistible.

Ah, I've not seen Helfather's stats yet. Still, I wouldn't discount the S1 based on one model. If we see more 'irresistible' weapons going forward, it may be better going with hordes, but then the same could be said of any army. As it is, the S1 is pretty much the most durable thing in the game.

@pretre, I like that idea... everyone tracks all of the obvious objectives all the time, that way you can play without risk of forgetting something, while giving nothing away to eachother in terms of the secret mission. Smart.

 Paradigm wrote:
As it is, the S1 is pretty much the most durable thing in the game.

As one of the coolest models in the gaming world at the moment, damn well should be!

The rule of cool is strong with this one.

 timetowaste85 wrote:

 Paradigm wrote:
As it is, the S1 is pretty much the most durable thing in the game.

As one of the coolest models in the gaming world at the moment, damn well should be!

Agreed. You'd have to give me a very long list of reasons and several research paper's worth of evidence to convince me to take that model out of my list.

Cant wait to paint that one! May be the first that I tackle.

 Paradigm wrote:

 timetowaste85 wrote:

 Paradigm wrote:
As it is, the S1 is pretty much the most durable thing in the game.

As one of the coolest models in the gaming world at the moment, damn well should be!

Agreed. You'd have to give me a very long list of reasons and several research paper's worth of evidence to convince me to take that model out of my list.

I begrudgingly did this on the weekend. Ended up with the general, 2stage 3s, the grenade launcher guy, 3dogs and 3 stage 2s.

As much as I love my stage 1, after the amount of pain those 3 stage 2s put out it'll be hard to go back to him for 70pt games.

Did anyone miss the angry mob rule for plague when they first read through the book? Helps the dogs not get blaze away killed the first turn.

I think 3 S2s is a very neat combo, it has to be said, and their damage output is phenomenal if/when you can get them into CC. The S1 really fills an entirely different role in the army.

The 2s are for fast and brutal combat monsters, the 1 gives you the near-invulnerability to just walk up the board, taking shots from all but the biggest guns with impunity (Keep a few Survive cards handy for the times he does get targeted with a big gun) and gives you great area control. If you can keep a move card on-hand, no one is going to want to go within 2 cubes of him, so he's great for objective denial and blocking routes.

In a Code 13 game (Can't wait to get one in), I'd almost be tempted to run with the S1 AND 3 2s, and fill out the rest of the points with grunts/dogs (I think it's doable pretty easily), You could set up a nice 1-2 punch with the fast and slower elements and use the grunts to keep their heads down a little. It might not be the most effective but it would sure be fun.

On an entirely unrelated note, I'd like to mention the Enforcer's Discipline rule that allows you to +/-1 aggression when Getting Mean. Has anyone considered this lets you essentially 'pin' yourself? It's only going to be very situationally useful, but with Armour 2 BA damage doesn't really bother Enforcers, and pinning yourself in cover might be a good way to get a nice bonus on survive dice against point fire (I'm pretty sure 'pinned' gives +1 survive against Shoot, doesn't it?). Is this legal/useful at all?

Yes, it is very useful. We were talking about this recently after a game. being able to get the +1 is pretty darn handy.

Hi guys, sorry if this has come up already but I don't really have time to read 7 pages (absolutely no offence intended, I just really dont have the time ) and I didn't think it was worth starting a new thread...

Can Deadzone be played on a non-squared board? I really want to give this game a go but don't have the time to build its own board. (I only have the rulebook coming so far and for now at least intend to use redundant 40k models/armies!)

Thanks guys!

 Emperors_Champion wrote:
Hi guys, sorry if this has come up already but I don't really have time to read 7 pages (absolutely no offence intended, I just really dont have the time ) and I didn't think it was worth starting a new thread...

Can Deadzone be played on a non-squared board? I really want to give this game a go but don't have the time to build its own board. (I only have the rulebook coming so far and for now at least intend to use redundant 40k models/armies!)

Thanks guys!

All the rules refer to cubes for distance but you could just replace the reference to cubes with 3",

The problem you might have is with cover cubes. Check out the demo mission on the mantic site just draw out a 4x4 board on paper and use paper "walls", once you've had a go, flip your paper and try again without the cubes see how you find it.

What I'm planning on doing is building a board for mars attacks/deadzone and putting visual queues for where the 3" cubes start etc. E.g around the edge of the board mark the 3", if ive got pavement or a road use a long crack or change in paving to show the difference in cubes.

The 3" grid is preeety important but you might get away with converting everything to inches instead of relying on cubes... more work though..

Ok thanks guys! I guess i just need to try it out!

Just be aware that measuring ranges in inches would be very, very different than counting cubes. A distance of one cube on a DZ mat could be anywhere from a fraction of an inch (if two models are right up against the line between cubes) to almost 13 inches (if they were in opposite cornersof diagonally-adjacent cubes).

Yeah its far from perfect to convert to inches.

 JoshInJapan wrote:
Just be aware that measuring ranges in inches would be very, very different than counting cubes. A distance of one cube on a DZ mat could be anywhere from a fraction of an inch (if two models are right up against the line between cubes) to almost 13 inches (if they were in opposite cornersof diagonally-adjacent cubes).

9, not 13. Otherwise, yup.

 Bolognesus wrote:

 JoshInJapan wrote:
Just be aware that measuring ranges in inches would be very, very different than counting cubes. A distance of one cube on a DZ mat could be anywhere from a fraction of an inch (if two models are right up against the line between cubes) to almost 13 inches (if they were in opposite cornersof diagonally-adjacent cubes).

9, not 13. Otherwise, yup.

Oops. That's why I teach English.

Yeh that could get kind of tricky. Well if I like the rule set and can find willing opponents then I'll just have to make time to make a board. Thanks guys.