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TURN OFF PART OF MY BRAIN! you and your damn Cylons..... Pffft!

These may help a bit Damo
http://www.miniaturescenery.com/PaintingGuides.asp

Fancy that a how to paint on the same site, who would think of that

And even a guide to making rivets...

Oh ha ha! :-) thanks Shas, I did read that but I'm thinking more along the lines of Daves AB work, a little more real looking like the space corridors from WarMill, that stuff all looks good and i'd love to be able to reproduce something akin to it! then i can give my skull encrusted ruins and building away to a good home!

@ nerdfest09 dude I have seen your work and I am sure you are capable of producing some stunning AB techniques

dsteingass wrote:You need to turn off the part of your brain that cares what it is made of first of all. Paint covers all. remember that

best comment today!

fear leads to anger...anger leads to hate...blablabla..

and hate leads to the dark side where they have strippers and beer >.> and some cookies too

@Nerd - this is on Warmills site...

MDF takes paint very well, and paint will not chip or flake off under normal use. You can use pretty much any paint; acrylic, cellulose, emulsion etc. You may wish to use a sanding sealer prior to painting to achieve a very smooth finish, but as standard the finish is very good.

As for the MDF stuff, it's always looked a little too square and thin for my tastes, but then I saw the Warmill landing pad and was instantly converted...

cookies never where enough for me to get to the dark side...but since they have strippers as well... so much for being mister nice guy

Oh I've not seen their landing pad before, very nice.

Yeah the landing pad is sweet looking!

Those are some very nice techniques on that site too! Especially the paint drop rivets

Hi,
Cant believe I can actually add some advice on this thread.
Apologise in advance for teaching anyone to suck eggs here.

Been working with MDF for years, both as a tradesman and a modeller.

First thing is you can paint it straight off, but it soaks up paint, especially on the edges. You can buy special primers, but a coat of PVA glue watered down 1:1 will prime it and seal it to take all our painting needs. Your first coat of paint can't be too watery, but you can add paint to the PVA to colour your primer coat in the first place. PVA is very cheap if bought from a good hardware store.

I have painted whole cabinets with a coat of PVA, then emulsion paint then PVA to seal paint. Lasted for years. And if you mix up the paints, like spray cellulose Lacquer over emulsion or acrylic paints it crackle glazes sometimes giving strange effects.

Again apologise for stating the obvious to anyone.

 Camkierhi wrote:
Hi,
Cant believe I can actually add some advice on this thread.
Apologise in advance for teaching anyone to suck eggs here.

Been working with MDF for years, both as a tradesman and a modeller.

First thing is you can paint it straight off, but it soaks up paint, especially on the edges. You can buy special primers, but a coat of PVA glue watered down 1:1 will prime it and seal it to take all our painting needs. Your first coat of paint can't be too watery, but you can add paint to the PVA to colour your primer coat in the first place. PVA is very cheap if bought from a good hardware store.

I have painted whole cabinets with a coat of PVA, then emulsion paint then PVA to seal paint. Lasted for years. And if you mix up the paints, like spray cellulose Lacquer over emulsion or acrylic paints it crackle glazes sometimes giving strange effects.

Again apologise for stating the obvious to anyone.

This was some interesting advice, plus it is a double wammy of advice as I am thinking of repainting some furniture.

Would this work on standard wood as well then ? I have a unit which I believe is a mix of pine and MDF never considered PVA over paint thought it would have to be some kind of sealing Lacquer.

The product is used to seal any porous material. It is not a tough finish and so I would not recommend it for surface of continual wear, (i.e. Table top, arms of chair) as a finish coat. But could be used to seal them prior to painting to stop the paint absorbing into the surface, and ruining the finish. For modelling purposes, I use it as a sealer on MDF board, it means one coat of paint afterwards and I am undercoated. I also mix it with water based paint and even paint and sand to give a textured finish. It is very cheap compared to specialist paints for textured finish. and providing you seal it up well, will keep in a jam jar for ages, so you can bulk batch your scenery paints.
Sorry for so long a reply Dave. I will shut up now, got a bit excited at being able to actually contribute.
Cheers

Never a problem Cam! Appreciated! How thin do you have to dilute it to spray it?

Just to throw in my two pence: I remember a discussion in the Infinity section about spraying MDF terrain with cheap hairspray before painting. I think a few people said they did it so it could be a good option. It's also a good craft medium to have around for sealing pastel work and weathering powders.

Isn't hairspray water soluble? PVA is too, until it dries, then it undergoes a chemical change.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help, and thanks Dave for letting us spitball ideas sounds like i may have to buy some MDF stuff for a try now, I'm with a lot of others with the general look being a bit blocky etc but those space corridors i mentioned earlier when painted up look perfect imo! i'll find a couple of smaller pieces I can work on and post some progress when I get around to it

I PVA'd the drop pods before painting them, just to be safe.

Glad to help. I think for sealing plaster the pot says dilute 5 parts water to 1 part PVA, but I brush it on at 50:50 mix. It should be spray able but a word of warning thoroughly clean your equipment afterwards. This is a glue and would clog up your jets just nicely.!!

Hose are some helpful techniques on the website. I can't believe Dave approves of two dimensional rivets . Off to pray the insanity passes . Not. Huge fan of the drop pod visual, but I used to enjoy the old Mountain Dew can drop pods, so you to each their own .

Well, I made mine in my Regal Blue + Shadow Gray "Dragons Errant" SM colors.

I'd love to do a whole board of the mdf stuff, but I just can't see mixing it in with the necromunda bulkheads as these are too slick looking.

I'm grimdarking another MiniArt 1/35 vacu-formed kit

love it when you grim dark buildings up dave they always turn out so well

Nice one, looking forward to this!

You'll have to imagine the squeals of joy yourself...
Looking forward to the build.

hey dave i have a question for you whats a good place to get those kits you grimdark, and what not looking to build something kinda unique and need some help/advice if you dont mind