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I think Weety wins the Dakka award for most fully painted minis! lol Great stuff Weety!

Love the group photos, I'm always a fan of the old school stuff. i'd be really interested to watch you paint (not in a strange stalker oddball way), your models come out really bright- solid colours... do you paint in layers or water your paints down at all? ..... do you use GW paints?

Cant wait for more, great stuff.

Wow thats a lot of lead!

Whole lotta lead - should be a song title!

tortured robot - Maybe I will do another step-by step? I did one many pages ago for the tech-priest.
My technique is varied - sometimes I like to basically paint a model in black and white first - I undercoat on white - wash in black and then use further layers of black wash and white highlights to bring everything up to the right shade - then use many coloured washes to colour things in. I also use more conventional methods of layering paint to get a bright finish and of course mix and match these techniques.

Most of my ordinary colour paints and washes are the original GW citadel paints from the 90s (amazing how well they keep) But also I have had a lot of success with vallejo washes (they dry very matt and are not as bright as citadel) and privateer press P3 washes (more shiny and bright)

A step by step would be great! or... What page roughly was the last one on for the techy?

Sounds really interesting painting from a greyish model with coloured washes.

Its somewhere between page 10 and page 60? I'm not sure I can be more precise. I've lost track!

Breaking news - Attempt at a plastic beakie!

They are a troublesome model - so basic they might as well be made from plasticine - it may have to go into surgery...

LOL! You can do it weety! Hang in there!

It IS amazing! I still have several GW paints from the 90's in the pots just like the new P3 pots, and they are all still fresh. Yet GW has changed the pot 3 times since then, and they all dry out when they are perfectly sealed.

Oh, and speaking of GW fails, , I actually found a use for the GW stippling brush...It works great to clean the dried paint out of the tip of an airbrush! lol

Yep - when they changed the pot I bought one to try it out - they were more expensive, there was less paint in the pot and three months down the line it was rock solid - Complete fail.

I've only bought two in the latest pots (clear lids), and in both lids the little flexible part is broken so the lids won't stay open to be able to dip your brush inside.

The last time I was in my FLGS the owner said that GW told him to sell off all his current pots. Perhaps this means another change is coming?

I liked the pics of your imperial models so much that I joined them together so that I can get the whole awesome panorama at once.



It's not a perfect stitch but will do in a pinch.

Hey, don't diss the old-skool beakies, they rock

Dusted and shot most of your collection, painted a raven guard and fiddled with a beakie (oo-err missus)! Getting your mojo back despite the January Blues?

Well done JB! That's even more impressive!

Amazing - I had to hunt for the join! Thanks JB that really helps. Any secret to it or is it just a manual cut and paste job?

Yep monkey, I guess I'm so bored now that I have to do something creative! So many days off work. I went in the other day and literally begged the boss to let me work. But Its very good if it means time for paint and other fun.

Apart from the washes I'm not keen on the latest gw paints. I still use a number of the old old round paints- not even sure what colours they are as they have no labels.

The old beakies may be pretty cool - But I'm having a lotta trouble with getting the primer to go on proper - its going on all powdery. Thats probably not the beakies fault - My cheap acrylic car spray does that sometimes. Must shell out for better spray

I found with the old plastics that you needed to wash them before priming - not sure if that still counts after 20 years?

Probably! They are a bit dusty. Whoops... Of course these beakies are already painted so I'm trying to undercoat over an already painted surface which might be problematic


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I've tried stripping plastic and it is troublesome

That's probably the issue weets. All of my beakies are either never-painted or as clean as I can get them before I begin. They just don't have the level of detail necessary to be able to pull off multiple paint jobs (everything's rounded, not many clean, sharp edges to help define things).

I've found Flash Power Spray to be useful at stripping plastics. Like Gits said, once there's a layer of paint on those old plastics you're on dodgy ground.

I don't entertain the idea of stripping plastics- I tried to strip a plastic squat army to sell - detol turned the paint into a sticky slimey mess.

I use "Simple Green" which I don't think is available in the UK. It's a mild cleaning product. Doesn't get them perfect but it removes the worst.

Gitsplitta wrote:I use "Simple Green" which I don't think is available in the UK. It's a mild cleaning product. Doesn't get them perfect but it removes the worst.

I think I managed to mail order a bottle a few years back. Can't remember where from, though.

I won't melt the plastic no matter how long you soak in it... which is a big point it its favor.

that collection shot is simply amazing... because of your otherwise single or sometimes triple shots, one could be under the misapprehension that you don´t own that many minis... but i was sure amazed at how many squats and other factions you own in a painted state...wouldn´t have bet so many platoons to be together...

weetyskemian44 wrote:Amazing - I had to hunt for the join! Thanks JB that really helps. Any secret to it or is it just a manual cut and paste job?

I don't have any fancy Photo manip software on this laptop so I just used Powerpoint to slightly resize one of your two photos. Then I joined them at the easiest spot to cover up small distortions between the two images. Once this was done, I cut a single figure out of a copy of one of the photos, rotated it slightly, and inserted it to cover up the part of the join where the greatest distortion was present. Then it was simple to group the three pieces, crop them as one single photo, and save it.

Took me about eight minutes, mostly because I tried two other programs first that didn't have the bollocks to get the job done.

You're work always inspires me, weety. I've never liked the old school RT models, until I saw them here. Your love for them ha changed my opinion. I however, have been having problems. I have lost my mojo for my IG. My Valhallans sit gathering dust, and I can't drum up enthusiasm to paint them. So... just to do something, I decided to model my tyranid carnifex. Now I am very excited for my new nids. I haven't even collected all of them yet, but the way this carni turned out has got my mojo going, but not for IG. This is probably the best model i've ever painted. And I am trying some new stuff for the base. I'm going to learn how to make snow. Here's a pic:

THe beading/powdering on the primer is probably because of the humidity wherever you are working with it. Is it spray primer?

Might temperature be a factor as well as the humidity? Some of my friends had trouble priming in colder weather, especially if they left the can in a cold area for several days.

It is very chilly! And damp too. I have to step out into a cold tile lined stairwell to prime as its the nearest well ventilated area.

Vallhalla - I think its important to have a bit of variety when it comes to painting for anything more artistic than just getting an army on the table. So I would say do it and paint more random stuff - tyrandid stuff looks like good fun - all those biological textures and colours to mess about with (urge to buy hormagaunts now for some reason).

I'm glad I've made you think differently about oldchool minis - I felt the same way about pre-slotta minis - they are just so pre-1980s!