Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

If you hate the Defiler try assembling a Chaos Dread. And not a FW one.

*shudders*

Nydhog wrote:

chromedog wrote:

Nydhog wrote:Also attaching the body to the freaking chasis without Zip Kicker is nothing short of a herculean feat lol.

Well, there's your problem. Superglue is not the best option for plastic. Also using zipkicker (to accelerate superglue curing) on thin styrene parts does result in warping.

Use a decent plastic cement. Liquid is best, and use it sparingly. Ball joints are easy as (if you want them rigid). A little on both surfaces. Press together and hold 30 seconds. Done.

I've been using my GW Plastic Glue on it. I also have the Citadel Glue for metal models.

You pay for GW glue? Is it still $5 - $6 or is it more reasonably priced now?

chromedog wrote:I've also not had any problems assembling a GW model.

Assembling the first generation plastic Landspeeders sucked big-time.
____

Nofasse 'Eadhunta wrote:If you hate the Defiler try assembling a Chaos Dread. And not a FW one.

*shudders*

The metal one?

That went together OK - you just need to pin the hell out of it like any other metal model.

Besides, the Chaos Dread went together better than Ghazkull.

GW glue is still obscenely expensive. Over hereits $10 for super and $12 for the plastic glue. Me, I go to the $2 shop and get seven tubes of supergle

JohnHwangDD wrote:

chromedog wrote:Use a decent plastic cement. Liquid is best, and use it sparingly.

No way.

Testors gel wins hands down. It is a more aggressive and stronger glue, which works better for models that will be handled / knocked over / dropped.

Liquid is better for scale modeling, where you don't have any load on the joints.

Exactly! God I thought I was going crazy! There is no way liquid plastic cement works well for joints that don't fit together well, or where there is a large load on the joints. I mean, if you can hold it together really tightly until it's fully set, sure, but it's just not possible.

I thought I was going crazy...

And maybe I am, but I have the famous "Testors Model Master" black bottle plastic cement with the long metal precision tube... and I can't ever hold anything long enough for it to set. I had to switch over to my zip super glue... although I haven't needed the kicker yet (have it just in case).

Wow, I feel your pain. The Chaos slow Crab is a pain to assemble.


At least it's not that lame Chaos Dread we have.

I don't use any GW modeling materials other than the occasional brush. Everything they make in that regard is substandard and overpriced. My preferred glue for plastics is testors liquid cement, followed by plastruct plastic weld and tenax. For superglue, I use Loctite or the brand sold by my local hobby shop. Green stuff and brown stuff I can get direct from the manufacturer for a lot less. For tools I use xacto, zona, dremel, and a few unnamed chinese companies tools I got from harbor freight. I suspect GW purposely sell inferior versions of these products so you are more likely to damage the already expensive models by trying to assemble them or so that once assembled, when they fall apart, they get damaged and you have to buy a new one.

Dude, they´re not that bad. Yes, they are pricy, but their paint brushes aren´t the worst, by a large margin.

And the new foundation paints and washes are great too, though the regular paints aren´t as good as Vallejo and others.

But honestly, they´re not all bad...

They're not good, either, for the money GW charges.

I overqualified my statement of "modeling materials" Their paints are fine, esp. the foundations and I have no major issues with their brushes, but I really only use the Tank Brush. I have issues with the price and quality of the tools, glues, and putty that they sell. There are other companies that make better quality tools at typically lower prices. Example: 3 modeling files, 12.00. You can get A six pack of diamond modeling files from GF9 for 13.00 or a set of 10 diamond files from Harbor Freight for 5.00.

Nydhog wrote:Why did I commit to assembling this? WHY!?!?! Lol I get it home, open the box, cried a little, and then read the oh-so-vague picture book style instructions. Haven't actually started work on it and I am already confused lol.

LOL boring space marine models ftw!

I've had a hell of a time getting legs to stick on Killa Kans and just about everything on the Ghaz model. I then belatedly discovered the pinning method (I'm a new kid at this you see). My problem is that I'm impatient so I tend to buy things from GW as it's close to work when I can probably get suitable alternatives elsewhere for a cheaper price but for instance I want to work on my gameboard this weekend so I bought the spraygun today. I hope to get plenty of use out of it though. I haven't personally had any problems with GWs glue's or materials.

JohnHwangDD wrote:IMO, the Defiler model is best used as the basis for some kind of conversion.

Buy a second, and you can knock together a pretty decent-looking Brass Scorpion for Apoc.

Buy a Defiler. Check.

Buy a Vindicator. Check.

Assemble the spider legs. Check.

Assemble the Vindicator. Check.

Glue the Vindicator on top of the spider legs. Check.

Defiler complete.

-J.

Alazahr wrote:

JohnHwangDD wrote:IMO, the Defiler model is best used as the basis for some kind of conversion.

Buy a second, and you can knock together a pretty decent-looking Brass Scorpion for Apoc.

Glue the Vindicator on top of the spider legs. Check.

Defiler complete.

-J.

Heh.

Tho, I was thinking about something more like this, or the Brass Scorpion mentioned above.

I like that pic, but where's... Where's... *Sobs.* Where's the washing machine?

-J.

Dead and buried for parts.

Okay so i'm about halfway done painting this friggin thing......... I am so agitated with all the fluffy knick-knacky crap lol

defilers arent a problem to put together
if your unsure use something like blutac to do a dry run to see how it all fits together

i rather put together 20 defilers than a single track section of a russ -_-

JD21290 wrote:i rather put together 20 defilers than a single track section of a russ -_-

whys that

track sections on the russ are allways annoying to put together.
they need to just have them single piece to save alot of time.
most people i have seen have missing sections in the tracks where a track wouldnt fit lol.

@JD: That is why my Russes all have track guards covering the upper run...

most people hide them at the bottom lol, but yea, long story short, i hate tracks :K
the land raider ones seem alot better to fit, never had a problem with those.

According to the rumor mill the tracks for the russ are changing in the next installment.

the GW products I assembled all worked very well together(possibly because the only vehicles I ever put together are a predator and a trukk) but god I hate the tank tracks on that predator.

Defilers aren't too bad. None of the all plastic kits are bad, start doing some of the metal/plastic hybrids (thankfully being phased out) or some of the FW resin/plastic kits.

HA HA im one for putting myself through all sorts of hobby hell

So hows this my Slannesh army is gonna need a uber centerpiece yes a walking gun thats gonna be a Defiler and a Basilisk kit banged together in some sort of infernal union.

Somnicide wrote:Defilers aren't too bad. None of the all plastic kits are bad, start doing some of the metal/plastic hybrids (thankfully being phased out) or some of the FW resin/plastic kits.

Who the heck decided to produce that business blunder? Plast/Metal are two different elements of modeling and require 2 very different styles of handling and assembling lol.