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Best name ever!

cant wiat to see how this turns out

I personally hate the squadron green putty. I've found the stuff never sands well and if I've got big gaps I use either the white or Vallejo's putty. If i have small gaps I use Mr Surfacer or Mr Dissolved Putty
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html

Good luck Tom! I will be attempting to make a warhound during the summer so I will watch for tips, unfortunately I have exams atm and I'm in the middle of my RC baneblade.

May the sauce be with you!

Where can you buy plasticard from???

looking forward to seeing how this plays out.

crimsonfist832 wrote:Where can you buy plasticard from???

Most of your hobby stores should carry plasticard and other supplies. Woodland Scenic and Plastruct are the two big brands.

However, if you want to buy in bulk this is a good place to use if you're in the States:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22883&catid=715

Foda_Bett wrote:I personally hate the squadron green putty. I've found the stuff never sands well and if I've got big gaps I use either the white or Vallejo's putty. If i have small gaps I use Mr Surfacer or Mr Dissolved Putty
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html

I am hoping the gaps I leave will be thin enough that I can use the green, if not, I'll look into Vallejo! Love their paints afterall!

crimsonfist832 wrote:Where can you buy plasticard from???

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/283826.page

I usually get it from www.towerhobbies.com, ebay, or the local hobby store which is quite far but I am occasionally near. Any train model store worth it's salt will have a ton of this stuff.

FM Ninja 048 wrote:this thread already sounds promising.

may I suggest it be called the "Magos Tom-XI" pattern stormraven

Lol I only named it the MajorTom11 pattern SR because most people knew what it was from the News and Rumors thread lol. Otherwise, at the end of this, with everyones help and advice, I think it should simply be called the Dakka Pattern SR, it's going to be a group effort!

Hyenajoe wrote:Ground Control to MajorTom...

I'm in! Your Stormraven is far more interesting than the GW version, and I'd be proud to help you!

Have you already started to gather plasticard materials?

Yessir, i have quite an array available to me already. All kinds! Also picked up a new compressor, another airbrush, weathering fixer, punch and die for rivets, mat cutter, protractor ruler, and all kinds of new gubbins to make sure this goes right!

Thanks a lot boys, Mach or CK, any chance of those demo shots of a properly done corner ?

I will keeping an eye on this blog.

One stop shopping for an improved Storm Raven and plasticard tips from the pros.

I'm very much liking the collaborative feel of this already, and have already learned a good amount. Hopefully we'll all be able to learn a lot more! I'll certainly be following this with great interest.

A decent triangular steel ruler is a basic must for this type of work, the one I've got's also a scale one and has a scale of 1;50 which is about right for 40k stuff. They hold better and help your knife cut neater on the surface.

Mach or CK, any chance of those demo shots of a properly done corner ?

Someone's anxious to get started . Good nthing I suffer the occasional bout of insomnia, so here's how I do it, Mach's way may be better/more accurate/easier.

Step 1:Choose the two panels that will fit and clean them up (which I didn't in this pic). Then, decide which two edges will go together, and file them down, so they'll fit together nicely in the end.







Step 2: Decide your angle and make the supports. I normally use a gradient to measure out the angle (plasticard takes pencil pretty well), draw it out, the cut it. Here, I just randomly decided on an angle by making two identical trapezia . Trigonometry 101: for an 'outward' angle: 90° + the angle you want!

Here's how it looks, the arced-in bits will be the supports.



Cut loose, and one trimmed down so it takes less place:



I penciled in the bit you really need. The rest of the card is gravy and can be left on for additional structural integrity if it's not in the way of construction.

Step3: Add the support to the first panel. Make sure the angled side is properly placed, or your second panel won't fit.




Step 4: Add in the second panel:




Step 5: Touch up with a file or gs depending on taste. No piccies here since I'm lazy and din't feel like gsing

Hope this helps you out!

Its a really cool kit, i held it like 2 days back and its alot nicer irl. Your conversion idea looks great, but i'm not sure if its totally necessary.

A small detail came to my mind: what measurement system are you using guys? It might be a usefull thing to know in a group project.
I use the metric system (and don't know any others... )

I suggest to add an equivalence board of the measurements to this thread.

Now back to MajorTom's material: what's your thickest plasticard sheet? I sometimes use 2mm thick sheet (it would be fine to build the main structure), but it's quite a pain to cut with manual tools. If you want to use this kind of material, I recommend a Dremmel-like tool ( or enough spare blades ).

Otherwise I think you've got the right tools

Do you alaready have front and profile drawings?

A quick suggestion. Leave the front of the model for last. You may not need to change the... thrusters? if that's what they are. The challenging part will be extending the back of the model and supporting it structurally.

Hyenajoe wrote:A small detail came to my mind: what measurement system are you using guys? It might be a usefull thing to know in a group project.
I use the metric system (and don't know any others... )

I suggest to add an equivalence board of the measurements to this thread.

Now back to MajorTom's material: what's your thickest plasticard sheet? I sometimes use 2mm thick sheet (it would be fine to build the main structure), but it's quite a pain to cut with manual tools. If you want to use this kind of material, I recommend a Dremmel-like tool ( or enough spare blades ).

Otherwise I think you've got the right tools

Do you alaready have front and profile drawings?

1" = 2.5 cm; 2.54 if you want to be really precise

2 mm is very thick and I rarely use it. 1mm with added support for really big structures (10+ cm ) usually suffices.

Thanks ck! Awesome, and muck appreciated!

Bossasaurus wrote:Its a really cool kit, i held it like 2 days back and its alot nicer irl. Your conversion idea looks great, but i'm not sure if its totally necessary.

It is absolutely not 'neccesary', if you like it as is that is perfectly cool with me! Besides my own personal issues with the design, this is just as much about the challenge of the conversion!

Hyenajoe wrote:A small detail came to my mind: what measurement system are you using guys? It might be a usefull thing to know in a group project.
I use the metric system (and don't know any others... )

I suggest to add an equivalence board of the measurements to this thread.

Now back to MajorTom's material: what's your thickest plasticard sheet? I sometimes use 2mm thick sheet (it would be fine to build the main structure), but it's quite a pain to cut with manual tools. If you want to use this kind of material, I recommend a Dremmel-like tool ( or enough spare blades ).

Otherwise I think you've got the right tools

Do you alaready have front and profile drawings?

Have dremel, and mat cutter, which should suffice, and both 1 an 2mm plasticard. For my own measurements, will probably go metric due to tighter packing of measuring increments on your average ruler. Conversion is easy enough though, will mark everything down and make 2versions maybe?

Breotan wrote:A quick suggestion. Leave the front of the model for last. You may not need to change the... thrusters? if that's what they are. The challenging part will be extending the back of the model and supporting it structurally.

Yup, thrusters will be as is for now unless there is a good reason to fiddle with them, my design was done on the first leaked shot before they could be seen, so I was actually pretty happy they were there!

CommissarKhaine is right on with the method of how to do the joint. I couldn't have done it better

This is already a fascinating thread, a work-in-progress supported by the masters of plasticard and converting, with illustrated instructions and tool suggestions?

Someone's gonna need to sticky this one.

--B.

Here's some cool WIP pictures of one I found on the internet. It definitely gets the juices flowing.

http://captureandcontrol.blogspot.com/2011/01/stormraven-built-and-reviewed.html

Indeed, I think it will be easiest to build the main body and take measurements with calipers and protractors first, find out exactly what the 'connection areas' are going to be, then measure up a dread to see if it is even feasible to get one hanging back there enclosed. Just missing a square-head protractor and I can safely and officially say, I have everything I need to do this!

After seeing your pressure cooked resin molds Foda, I would ask how feasible you think it would be to cast whatever I make on these? I have zero experience in terms of mold making or pouring resin, without the extra equipment would you even recommend trying? My desire to do this will be entirely dependent on how long it takes to build these parts new, and then trying again based on known templates and measurements. If it still takes 20 hrs even when you know exactly what to cut, how to assemble etc, then mold-making will seem like an interesting idea lol!

Thanks again everyone, Foda, CK and Mach you guys are really providing fantastic, useful and inspiring information here, cheers!

Cool. I wish i could make one but I stink at plasticard.

Here's an idea I'm thinking of doing: A Stormraven that carries a Baal Predator instead of troops and a Dreadnought. Just beef up and extend the rear a bit while adding a clamping system that holds the Predator via magnets.

What do you think?

Chibi Transport T-hawk? Win!

Only thing is unless it's a stand in the rules won't be there... I am thinking of installing 'rails' to slide the hull extension onto... partly so I can take it off to cast it if I ever want to, and partly to be able to put on alternates like this kinda thing down the line

If it's cool enough, someone will make the rules

Guess what I found when I typed custom Storm Raven?


WIN

LOL

Alright boys, heard from Empchild over at Battleroad games that the SR and Furiosos should be en-route in a few days! Give a week or 2 delivery to Canada and we can pretty much be assured that this project starts officially at the latest by Valentines.

If some of you get the kits early, feel free to do me a solid and take a few measurements!

I am 85% finished with the last 4 SH Termies, which will tie up that project til Summer when I will finish the hybrids. It will be a BA-a-thon til then! Have to sketch out SR back end ideas and practice with my new compressor as soon as the termies are done...

I've started making some plasticard tanks of my own, so it's interesting to see that I've been doing exactly what the masters suggest. Huzzah! I shall be watching with interest to see what other tips and tricks come up.

One thing I've found useful is to mock up what you're making in cardboard or paper first as it's much cheaper to scrap a design in paper than in plasticard. You can then also unfold it and use it as a template for your actual model.

I got my SR in today, very nice. All sorts of lovely bits that i can leave off for other projects.

I may even startbuilding it now!


Edit: Okay, i started! Almost done fleshing out the shape, then its final detailing. Do you want me to put up some pics Tom??