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Captain Brown builds the Flower Class Corvette HMCS CHILLIWACK (What did he say?!)  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in pl
Ambitious Marauder




Poland

This is beyond good
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





Boston-area [Watertown] Massachusetts

Following, because of my unholy love of 80's Canadian pop songs that never really made it into the US.

And I <3 the Chopper and Chopper 2. But folks should be sure and buy the NWSL (Northwest Shore Line) version, NOT the Micro-Mark crappy knockoffs.

--Brian



Falling down is the same as being hit by a planet — "I paint to the 20 foot rule, it saves a lot of time." -- Me
ddogwood wrote:People who feel the need to cheat at Warhammer deserve pity, not anger. I mean, how pathetic does your life have to be to make you feel like you need to cheat at your toy army soldiers game?
 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




Canada

Thank you amazingturtles, Kid_Kyoto and Frodeck.

kestral wrote:Interesting. How do "scuttles" relate to "Scuttling"?
The Chopper looks prettty handy!


Well a scuttle is another name for a port hole, but usually one facing the sky...while scuttling is purposefully sinking yourself (somehow I think you already knew that).
The Chopper is very useful for cutting plastic card strips to be the same length quickly, or making a perfect 45 degree cut.

Meer_Cat wrote:I'm not sure if it's the same for Canadian warships, but US ships have what's called a 'breakaway' song that's played when underway replenishment is completed and the loaded vessel is moving away from the stores/supply ship. In my checkered past the ship I served on used 'The World Needs Guts' by Alice Cooper. I think the practice started in the mid-70's. Prior to that, the uploaded vessel would sound a special signal over the 1MC system to alert crew that the ship was preparing to make turns- and angle away at a fairly steep plane to avoid being rolled back at or into the supply ship.
This Chilliwack has a natural, built-in breakaway song- 'She's gone so long', by the Canadian music group Chilliwack from the early 80's!


Briancj wrote:Following, because of my unholy love of 80's Canadian pop songs that never really made it into the US.

And I <3 the Chopper and Chopper 2. But folks should be sure and buy the NWSL (Northwest Shore Line) version, NOT the Micro-Mark crappy knockoffs.

--Brian

Thanks Meer_Cat and Briancj, I did not realize that music would be quoted so often. Yes, the NWSL cutters are very good and worth the cost.

Another tool I found very useful was the Mini-Dremel. Used it to clear the decks of their fake reversed wood paneling...also for the ventilators, and it will be used to sand off the large keel that the real corvettes never had and likely the bow stem so I can replace it with some styrene strips.

Here is an example of the speed of the Dremel, I started the pom-pom move. RCN Corvettes had their 2 Pounder 'Pom-Pom' (or whatever other secondary armament they had in the aft bandstand which included paired Lewis guns from WW1 on some RCN Corvettes) moved much further aft, as the original design had two masts (forward and mainmast)...and it does not really work when your principle anti-aircraft defense weapon is wooded by a mast in two directions.

Original engine room casing deck:


After the dremel made short work of the base:
I went to work on the deck to smooth it down.

The Revell kit has the decks covered in this reverse wood planking, so instead of small gaps between boards there are raised lips of plastic...might work for painting with a brown wash, except that Corvettes had steel decks and added wood planking at various high traffic areas and over living spaces.

The deck prior to sanding:

Then cleaned…since this photo was taken I have sanded off the four lines at the aft end of the quarterdeck (where the depth charge racks would go…except RCN Corvettes had theirs on an angle and much shorter due to Minesweeping gear) and all the raised portions on the main deck as I am building new superstructure showing the difference between the Canadian and British designs.


The long painting and converting war continues...

CB


DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in us
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps







I'd have assumed scuttles were below the waterline and you opened them to let the water in. I suppose you would still want to open them when deliberately sinking the ship, hence the name?

Looking good. I enjoy hearing all the technical details of the real ships.
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot






If I remember from my 'yo-ho-ho days', a scuttle is any opening between two distinct spaces that can be actuated by a lever or valve. I know on my cutter we had 'the captain's seachest' which was a gang trunk of 'scuttling valves' which could be used to sink the ship, but also served to drain the lowermost portion of the hull in drydock. There was also the 'slops scuttle' in the galley which was a double valved tube running over the side for disposing of food waste into the sea.

The crew of one coastal freighter that we busted hauling more than 100 tons of marijuana (this was the early 80's) tried to scuttle her by opening the scuttling valves (I think we also called them sea-cocks) but there was so much loose weed floating around that the valves clogged and she didn't take water on fast enough.

I'm not sure which came first: the noun for the opening with its cover or valve, or the verb for the action of opening and closing it.

My two cents any way, I'll try to find the terms in copy of Flexner's dictionary of maritime and naval slang. And my memory might be faulty- I was a gunner's mate at that time (and went on to other services still playing with large things that went boom) and this is more the province of the bos'uns mates (boatswains, also affectionately known as deck apes).

Great project building here Captain- the kind that leaves memories!

"He fears his fate too much, or his desserts are small, who will not put it to a single touch; to win- or lose- it all."

Montrose Toast



 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




Canada

Thank you kestrel and Meer_Cat

So as I mentioned in my first posts, this is a model of a Corvette earlier in her career, with technology advancing various additions to her superstructure, increasing crew sizes and the fact they were designed as coastal vessels and found themselves steaming into the Atlantic to escort conveys a substantial increase in superstructure/hull was necessary. Often referred to as the focsle extension, the Revell kit is post extension (middle to late war addition...in fact about ten Canadian Corvettes went the entire war without that extension). So to build CHILLIWACK I had to make some substantial cuts.

Here are the four portions that make up the hull.

You can clearly see the rise in the hull in the stern halves below...my build needs to move that rise forward of the bridge...which also means I have to build the superstructure previously hidden by the deck extension.

That also means that once I cut I am committed to building a short focsle corvette...

So, I have been putting it off, but once Bob’s drawings arrived it was time to take the plunge and cut the hull…the feeling you get just before you cut is a strange one.

A Dremel cut or two later, some sanding, more cutting, more sanding. Then removing some of the overlap plastic…more sanding…sanding the old deck and cutting the middle portion in two and adding a piece to the end and we have this:



Very rough, since nothing is glued together yet, but you get the idea.

Now I do need to square off the stern before I glue...looking at attempting the 'hot water' method for that, and I just want to pull out the stern to make it less rounded rather than pushing it in and making the ship too short.

I have started on the superstructure; I want to make sure that the bridge is level with the angle of the deck (since the corvette has a curve...it was based on a civilian Whaling Ship after all).

The templates from Bob Pearson are very useful, a little cryptic in one or two instances (like the alcoves on RCN corvettes, and some spots you need to cut and add styrene to cover the sides of the raised galley). But really, really a fantastic time saver and guide to the build.

So I needed to start squaring off the stern, as the RCN Corvettes were built for minesweeping from the start and the squaring of the stern added much needed deck space and kept the minesweeping wires from get crossed.

Original Stern

Using hot water I stretched out the stern and gave it some flatness (as opposed to the original round RN stern), to increase this I added some 0.080 styrene.

Now you can see it is very rough, and the actual railings have been pulled up as I stretched the plastic back, I will be using the Dremel to sand that down and then cut the fairleads for the minesweeping gear and moving the depth charge holes as well.

Then I started on the end of the Engine Room Casing, RCN Corvettes moved their galleys just aft of the wheelhouse earlier than their RN counterparts and this did not need as much Casing aft, so to make room for the minesweeping gear they shortened the Casing. Here are my cuts to the deck and building the new end pieces.



Here is what it looks like on my hull.

You can see the extra decking in white styrene I had to add to cover the hole left in the deck by the shortened Casing.

The long painting and converting war continues...

CB


DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in us
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps







I admire your attention to detail. I love the stage on a big project like this where you can imagine walking around on it and peering into the corners. Minesweeping too, eh? A jack of all trades!
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




Canada

Thank you kestral,

Yes, the Royal Canadian Navy originally conceived of using their Corvettes to patrol around harbours and sweep to keep the channels clear.

So continuing with my plan to try and get the superstructure built to a point I could see it with the short focsle.

Wheelhouse

I still have not added the window frames, hence the rough appearance of the windows (I used 0.020 thickness styrene due to the requirement to cut out the windows)


Assembling the wheelhouse

Had a little trouble with the sizes, I probably should have tried to square the edges better as it seemed I had some extra structure by the time I finished.

So did some more work on the compass house (which sits above the wheelhouse from my last post) and here is my dry fit stage (so things will look strange as parts are not secured or leveled yet):

She is now starting to resemble an early Corvette. Many of the parts will need adjustment to be level as they would be once the ship was in the water.

Next I have to work on the atrociously large extraneous keel and massively thick stem…neither of which the Corvettes had…not to mention those excessively long and thick bilge keels…they are also going and will be replaced.

The long painting and converting war continues...

CB


DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in us
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps







Was the wheel house wooden?
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Wicked Warp Spider





London, UK

Awesome stuff here Cap! Love the attention to detail that's going into this.

W/L/D
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Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




Canada

kestral wrote:Was the wheel house wooden?

The wheel house was not, but the pilot house on the deck above (that looks like a little one room house) was wooden. Doors and window frames were wood.

Tyranid Horde wrote:Awesome stuff here Cap! Love the attention to detail that's going into this.


Thanks Tyranid Horde and kestral

So I took the hull and started to sand down the excess keel (which is far to large and thick), as well as the mountings for the extremely large and long bilge rails (which again look nothing like bilge rails).


I used a combination of the Mini-Dremel, craft knife and files. Keel was relatively easy; just use the sanding attachment and high speed to eat away at the excess plastic. A little more care was exercised as I got down to the base and I ran the blade of the craft knife along the keel remnants to make it nice and smooth, as well as round off what was left.


I used the cone sanding attachment on the bilge rail mountings, as I wanted to be careful and not to scar the hull too badly if at all. I used some styrene L bracket strips to make proper bilge rails of just under a foot in scale width.


I also had to cut out some more scuppers…and fill in one of the aft most scuppers and one fairlead (as the kit being the British design had one more added with the extending of the focsle and the Canadian design had only one fairlead hole aft vice two modeled in the kit).
Here are the three new scuppers:


At the same time I flattened that rise in the stern bulwarks created when I stretched out and flattened the stern. The flaps for the depth charge holes almost fit perfectly into the gaps so I will be gluing them in and sanding them down…as they are presently on an angle due to the plastic bending for the additional styrene. Once this is all ship shape I will add some polystyrene strips to recreate the lip of the top of the transom and later cut out three holes for the depth charge rails and the fairlead for the mine sweeping gear.

For the bow and the ridiculously wide stem I actually used the sanding attachment on an angle and tried to marry it to the hull form, basically extending forward a few millimeters…I did this because the actual stem of the Corvette was a single piece of steel and not a great flat thick slap as featured in the kit by the fusing to the two sides of the hull.
This is a photo from someone else building a corvette, to give you an idea of the size of the stem and keel...


Now what I did with the Dremel.



Now for the stem itself I cut a piece of styrene (0.020 square strip) to make the actual stem for the Corvette’s most deadly weapon…the ram. Sad as it seems today, despite depth charges, a 4 inch World Ward One deck gun, a 2 Pounder anti-aircraft weapon and a pair of Lewis or 50 Caliber Water-cooled Machine Guns…the most effective way for a Corvette to dispatch a U-Boat was to ram her and cut through the submarine’s pressure hull with the Corvette's bow. Corvette’s were especially adapt at this, as they did not ride so high as Destroyers (because of their low speed) and thus could usually ram a sub several times without doing extensive or critical damage to themselves. Naval architects were horrified that the surest way to make certain a U-boat sank was to employ a tactic from ancient Greece. Of course ramming was not as easy as it seams because the U-boat had to be driven to the surface first and could steer to avoid the Corvette.

The Corvette's most deadly weapon:


Folks often ask: "what about the depth charges?" Early in the war the depth charges on a Corvette used TNT and thus did not have that much explosive power, so to damage a pressure hull they had to be dropped very close...more likely the result of a close drop was hull valves bursting or rivets being forced through (and an expert crew could repair those). What a successful drop did sometimes achieve was causing a U-boat to lose it's trim and force it to the surface...and then the escort would usually attempt to ram as their deck gun could not depress low enough to fire at the hull of the Boat.

The long painting and converting war continues...

CB


DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





Boston-area [Watertown] Massachusetts

It's the history lessons that bring me back to this thread.

Falling down is the same as being hit by a planet — "I paint to the 20 foot rule, it saves a lot of time." -- Me
ddogwood wrote:People who feel the need to cheat at Warhammer deserve pity, not anger. I mean, how pathetic does your life have to be to make you feel like you need to cheat at your toy army soldiers game?
 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




Canada

Thanks Briancj,

Next up: The non-watertight doors.

The non-watertight doors are made from 0.020 thickness Polystyrene with 0.020 square strip polystyrene for the central support and 0.020 by 0.010 strips for the frame and cross-pieces. A little square of 0.020 thickness for the door handle lock and the end of one of the rather useless plastic stanchions makes a nice handle.

So the Chopper II was really useful again and I started by making my doors, after getting the measurements I found the doors to be extremely narrow…so narrow that I cheated and increased the thickness by 1 mm to make them look more realistic at this scale (a little artistic license). Then I sat down and made them in assembly line fashion. After an hour 8 non-watertight doors were sitting complete before me and I was feeling quite proud of myself…I had finished enough for the model and a few extras in case of problems and cleaned up…

Polystyrene frames:


Handle construction:


Finished:


Later, when I was looking at the model I noticed there are a few more doors than I thought in the bulkheads under the focsle. I need eight just for that, so it looks like I will have to pull out the Chopper II and make some more.

The long painting and converting war continues...

CB


DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut







Some impressive attention to detail here, Captain - keep up the good work!

2019 Plog - Dysartes Twitches - 2019 Output

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Gamgee on Tau Players wrote:we all kill cats and sell our own families to the devil and eat live puppies.
 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




Canada

Thank you Dysartes,

Finished another five non-watertight doors, that should be enough for my build, ironically I finally tracked down where the other two doors are located, there were two leading to the RCN galley and another two inside the alcove recesses. Which leaves me with one extra in case of problems.

Next up is the watertight doors. I have made mine from a base of 0.010 thickness styrene cut 11 mm by 24 mm on top of this is a piece of 0.020 thickness styrene 9 mm by 22 mm so that there is a nice 1 mm gap all the way around.

Rather unimpressive styrene pieces:


Edges are trimmed at a 45 degree angle and then filed to make a rounded corner. Handles were made with left over stanchion pieces and they were placed 4.5 mm from the top and bottom. Hinges were made with some 0.010 by 0.020 strips of styrene. Handles were made the same way I made them for the Engine Room Skylight, bending staples for the wire portion. I used the same staples for the dogs on the watertight handles, because they have the curve already there. Trimming them down to size and attaching them with 5 minute epoxy (I tried superglue first, but my applicator really sucked as it was one of those push end variety tubes).

Finished Product:


I need three for the end of the Engine Room Casing and two for the Focsle.

Here they are getting added to the Engine Room Casing.
Starboard side:

Port Side:


Speaking of the conversion work of watertight and non-watertight doors, here is the bulkhead under the focsle facing the well deck. Eight non-watertight and two watertight doors (there actually is a ninth non-watertight door that accesses the companionway, but since it faces inwards and won’t be visible once the deck is fitted I am leaving it off.


The large number of non-watertight doors on the port side led to the heads (toilets)...which had a direct standpipe to the sea and meant that using them in any sort of rough sea was very, very, very tricky. A good wave on the bow and you got salt water shooting up...well I will leave it at that.

Next up, was the bulwark railing, the kit has a very nice top to the bulwarks back aft, but since I cut my hull to create the short focsle I am left with a rather narrow and rough bulwark. So I sanded down the inside to remove the now visible part numbers, then I attached a strip of 0.010 by 0.125 styrene to each side, then a bracket of styrene was added underneath. This effectively made me a common rail.



Another issue I had was my cut was a little two deep at the rising of the bulwarks to meet the focsle. I followed the template from the drawings Bob Pearson sent me, but I noticed after I had cut that CHILLIWACK and her sisters from the West Coast had a more gradual rise…*nuts*…so some two part epoxy putty was necessary to rebuild the missing section.


In this picture you can see the doorways under the focsle deck with the template from Bob Pearson still attached before I added the non-watertight and watertight doors.

The whole hull with primer coat:


A little sanding needed midships that the primer highlighted.

The long painting and converting war continues...

CB


DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in be
Drone without a Controller





Antwerp

I always wanted to work on a miniature ship model. This will be interesting to follow. Great stuff so far.

'The whole art of war consists in getting at what is on the other side of the hill.' -- The Duke of Wellington

My hobby log: https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/770007.page 
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





Boston-area [Watertown] Massachusetts

Salt water up the standpipe == bidet, quit yer bitching, sailor!

Falling down is the same as being hit by a planet — "I paint to the 20 foot rule, it saves a lot of time." -- Me
ddogwood wrote:People who feel the need to cheat at Warhammer deserve pity, not anger. I mean, how pathetic does your life have to be to make you feel like you need to cheat at your toy army soldiers game?
 
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




Canada

Thanks for the comments Flapjack and Briancj.

Some more progress.

I started working on the engine room casing aft, as you see above the watertight doors are now on and I fixed up my skylight with two mushroom vents and an edging of 0.015 by 0.060 strips of styrene down the sides.



Then I started on the two ammunition lockers located at the after end of the engine casing deck on RCN corvettes. I added some plastic parts from other kits to try and recreate the butterfly clips, not sure I like them, but it is better than what I started with.


Anyone with ideas on how to make better 1/72 scale butterfly clips please let me know.

So with the four shorter ventilators and a cleaning gear locker I placed them on the casing to see how it fits together.



Then I started on the boat deck with this mock-up. You can see the sanding marks where I removed some of the raised detail on the funnel deck base (I also had to build the front bulkhead as the kit was a later RN corvette with the galley moved forward and raised directly in front of the funnel deck).

The non-watertight doors hanging in the air are to the galley which in RCN corvettes was directly behind the bridge, superior to RN corvettes in that you did not have to walk the length of the deck to get your food, you still had to walk down the steps and across the well deck to your mess…which meant your food was just cold and slightly wet when it got to the mess instead of cold and very wet in the RN corvettes, where the galley was right aft.

I also made sliding doors for the wheelhouse; this was with some angle bracket styrene.

Still need to clean up the window frames for the addition of 'glass'.

The long painting and converting war continues...

CB


DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





Boston-area [Watertown] Massachusetts

Can you shoot me a picture of what the clips-in-question look like?

Thanks!

Falling down is the same as being hit by a planet — "I paint to the 20 foot rule, it saves a lot of time." -- Me
ddogwood wrote:People who feel the need to cheat at Warhammer deserve pity, not anger. I mean, how pathetic does your life have to be to make you feel like you need to cheat at your toy army soldiers game?
 
   
Made in ca
[DCM]
Acolyte of Goodwin






Sunny SoCal

Absolutely fantastic to see this on Dakka, we often don't realize just how much we owe to military/historical modelling and how much more there is to learn and apply. Great blog, keep it up!

   
Made in ca
Stoic Grail Knight





drinking tea in the snow

Looking good and i love the look of those doors with the staples

realism is a lie
 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps







Interesting what the water tight doors looked like. I'd never seen that type before. Good job getting the hull to line up - I often have trouble with that kind thing. What does a Bilge Rail do?

Thanks for posting!
   
 
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