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So I finally started using magnets, but I've run into a problem. I'm having trouble figuring out a system where the magnets will attract to each other to keep them in. I made the mistake of putting a magnet it and then accidentally using the other side for an arm. Does anyone know a god system to keep track of them?

When you're about to glue a magnet in place, mark the magnet with a sharpie. Depending on the side, I mark a "X" for "glue this side" and a circle for "glue other side".

When I'm about to plan for the polarity for a magnet, I take the stack of magnets and test it on an existing model arm/weapon/whatever.

I make sure all "right" side pieces are the same polarity and all "left" side pieces are the other polarity. That way, if I wanted I can attach a Carnifex arm onto an Eldar Falcon if I wanted to.

That seems like it would work. Thanks for the advice. Although I think I'll probably use different colored sharpie dots instead of x's and o's.

I paint the ends that will stick together in something obnoxious like Scorpion Green so I won't lose track of them. Paint might stick better than the aforementioned Sharpies.

I don't mark the magnets, at all. Instead, I leave them in a stack while gluing. Insert the stack into your first hole, one magnet deep, then slide it off to the side (slide, not pull, or you'll just yank the thing out before the glue takes hold), leaving your one magnet to set at the right depth. Having a longer stack also helps you keep the magnets perpendicular to the join, as you have the stack to exaggerate angles, for visual reference. Once dry, put the stack back on to test polarity, then do the same to the other part using the opposite end of the stack. Much easier to deal with a 1-1/2" stick than a 3/16" puck and it guarantees proper polarity, as all the magnets in the stack will be aligned in the same direction.

oadie wrote:I don't mark the magnets, at all. Instead, I leave them in a stack while gluing. Insert the stack into your first hole, one magnet deep, then slide it off to the side (slide, not pull, or you'll just yank the thing out before the glue takes hold), leaving your one magnet to set at the right depth. Having a longer stack also helps you keep the magnets perpendicular to the join, as you have the stack to exaggerate angles, for visual reference. Once dry, put the stack back on to test polarity, then do the same to the other part using the opposite end of the stack. Much easier to deal with a 1-1/2" stick than a 3/16" puck and it guarantees proper polarity, as all the magnets in the stack will be aligned in the same direction.

What he said.

Lars wrote:

oadie wrote:I don't mark the magnets, at all. Instead, I leave them in a stack while gluing. Insert the stack into your first hole, one magnet deep, then slide it off to the side (slide, not pull, or you'll just yank the thing out before the glue takes hold), leaving your one magnet to set at the right depth. Having a longer stack also helps you keep the magnets perpendicular to the join, as you have the stack to exaggerate angles, for visual reference. Once dry, put the stack back on to test polarity, then do the same to the other part using the opposite end of the stack. Much easier to deal with a 1-1/2" stick than a 3/16" puck and it guarantees proper polarity, as all the magnets in the stack will be aligned in the same direction.

What he said.

What he quoted.

I test polarity before gluing every magnet. Better safe than sorry.

I don't use any kind of markings. I put the magnet on the end of a metal file and move it close to a reference model. If they attract, they are polarized the same way.

I use a combination of sharpies, stacking, and the needle file trick.

I also keep a "master" magnet with the north pole marked and use that for reference when starting a new model.

I also arbitrarily decided that I would use north as "up" or "out" when magnetizing.

That way I know a newly magnetized assault marine arm will be compatible with arms on tac marines, or whatever.

And Branderic is right - always double check - digging out a glued-in magnet is a pain in the backside.

roughly like this is how I do it.




I really must do a many picture tutorial.

MOST IMPORTANT

test many times, stick once. . . .

I have a system similar to the sharpie trick mentioned above. I have a master magnet with one side marked, and whenever I start using a new stack I mark the top magnet using my master as reference. Then each time I remove the top magnet I mark the one below it.

To keep everything straight, when assembling the model I use the following rule: the marked side of the magnet should always face away from the center of the model. By following that rule I ensure all the poles line up on all my magnets.

If you do happen to glue a magnet in the wrong way around, an easy way to remove them is drilling through the object from the other side (where possible, also, before the glue dries completely). In some cases it is not even a problem, as the side you are drilling through will get glued onto something else. In another case you might have to fill a small 1 mm hole.

I do it the way Kr'aag does it.

No need to mark 'x' and 'o' for opposing sides.

just a simple mark. Which means this side into the model.

Digilante wrote:I have a system similar to the sharpie trick mentioned above. I have a master magnet with one side marked, and whenever I start using a new stack I mark the top magnet using my master as reference. Then each time I remove the top magnet I mark the one below it.

To keep everything straight, when assembling the model I use the following rule: the marked side of the magnet should always face away from the center of the model. By following that rule I ensure all the poles line up on all my magnets.

This is what I do. I glue in a magnet, drop on the other magnet, and then sharpie it. When gluing, the rule is "shiny-side-out" which I am pretty sure I repeat under my breath as I'm dropping it in - marked side gets the glue, shiny side out - it should be the side facing you.