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Right so Citadel has just released its "new and improved" glues, Plastic Glue - Thin and Super Glue - Thick.

The new Plastic Glue Thin features a long application nozzle, which is perfect for gluing together smaller components, while the Super Glue Thick has a slightly denser consistency, which is ideal on your larger Citadel Finecast models, and also useful for filling in any gaps between the resin surfaces. Make sure you order them today and start using them on your models.

Full article here - http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=1900032-gws

And for those of you who like pictures.






I for one will be sticking with my Revell plastic glue and cheapo no name super glue.

Is this really news?

>_>

Knights-Abhorrent wrote:Is this really news?

>_>

Glue news, yes.

That and it is a new product, so yeah... It is news.

Awesome repackaged Humbrol glue with a 100-200% mark up and less volume then normal. GW at it's best.

Decent Idea with the THIN plastic glue going to buy it once for the bottle, then refill it with $2 glue from my local hobby store

I like that they're doing the thin glue.

Testors makes a similar one, I've had the same bottle for like 4 years, all you need is to squirt a little drop out of the needle and you're done. No more goopy mess. So even if you want to buy GW's pricier version you should get your money's worth if it'll last half as long...

Necros wrote:I like that they're doing the thin glue.

Testors makes a similar one, I've had the same bottle for like 4 years, all you need is to squirt a little drop out of the needle and you're done. No more goopy mess. So even if you want to buy GW's pricier version you should get your money's worth if it'll last half as long...

In my experience I have found the metal pin on plastic glue to be a total red herring. It's useless the glue still flows to fast so I just dop the glue onto a pallet and use a toothpick to apply to the model.

I never really use plastic glue unless it's a large model that needs the support like a scratch build titan.

This topic should really be sticky tbh.

-.-



In truth GW lost my business when my models feel apart after using GW's thick plastic glue and this is still sold so I can't see these being any better. Sorry GW you haven't got me convinced that you have changed anything.

Edit see

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/418230.page

GW's is 6.60 US for 0.7oz (94 cents per oz). Testors "model master" cement is 7.80 for 1.0 oz (78 cents per oz).

Even though the price difference isn't back breaking, I really don't see a compelling reason to start using GW's glue.

FabricatorGeneralMike wrote: In my experience I have found the metal pin on plastic glue to be a total red herring. It's useless the glue still flows to fast so I just dop the glue onto a pallet and use a toothpick to apply to the model.

Inserting obligatory "you're doing it wrong" comment.

Not trashing GW, but I now use Super Glue's 3 tubes for a dollar ones since I tend to screw up my bottles a lot.

I have poor glue discipline.

Breotan wrote:GW's is 6.60 US for 0.7oz (94 cents per oz). Testors "model master" cement is 7.80 for 1.0 oz (78 cents per oz).

Even though the price difference back breaking, I really don't see a compelling reason to start using GW's glue.

FabricatorGeneralMike wrote: In my experience I have found the metal pin on plastic glue to be a total red herring. It's useless the glue still flows to fast so I just dop the glue onto a pallet and use a toothpick to apply to the model.

Inserting obligatory "you're doing it wrong" comment.

Don't tell me how to play with my toys, or i'll pick them up and take them home....if the glue holds =o]

FabricatorGeneralMike wrote:

Breotan wrote:GW's is 6.60 US for 0.7oz (94 cents per oz). Testors "model master" cement is 7.80 for 1.0 oz (78 cents per oz).

Even though the price difference back breaking, I really don't see a compelling reason to start using GW's glue.

FabricatorGeneralMike wrote: In my experience I have found the metal pin on plastic glue to be a total red herring. It's useless the glue still flows to fast so I just dop the glue onto a pallet and use a toothpick to apply to the model.

Inserting obligatory "you're doing it wrong" comment.

Don't tell me how to play with my toys, or i'll pick them up and take them home....if the glue holds =o]

You can play with your toys the way you like best, but I have to say that I have used the Testors with metal needle for years now and love it more than any other glue I have used. I get perfect control and on the rare occasion that the tip gets clogged with a little dry glue I just pop out the needle and shove a smaller "real" needle inside to clean and then pop it back into the bottle. I have had the same 2 bottles for what seems like forever (probably about 3 years) and even with friends using it, neither is less than half full. I played Iguard, and have gone thru two complete armies so you can get the feeling of models assembled just by me.

$10 Citadel PVA glue! Aw man, and they come out with it just after I but a $1.50 tacky glue bottle from Michaels. Such a waste...

Did anyone else notice they also repackaged most or all of the flocks? They come in the same rectangular boxes that the basing kits come in now.

I do have the other GW thick clue, takes to long to dry.

I use a competitors brand, purple n sliver bottle,thick, drys like 5 seconds, its more expensive then GW, hrmmmm better product higher price...See we will buy more expensive stuff from other companies..

I for one am a glue bottle abuser,,, botlle gets yucky, cut top off, glue fingers to model, repeat

I need help...,not post help, pysch help lol

GW discover gel superglues then.

Sticking to my loctite gel super glue like I always have, thanks GW for proving you need more money.

I doubt I'd switch to GWS glue regardless of price because I can't imagine it being better than my current go-to glues of loctite super gel or model master plastic cement, as applicable.

I'm sticking with my Revel Contacta Professional Poly cement.

One 25g bottle lasts years, and I can get reasonably decent...if not runny...superglue stupid cheap. I think it's 5 bottles for a quid?

Knights-Abhorrent wrote:Is this really necessary?

>_>

Fixed

I like the thick glue, but i got mine weeks ago at my local game store so this isn't breaking news for me.
People can whine about GW glue all they want, but i've never had a problem with it unlike with testors and locite.

FabricatorGeneralMike wrote:

Awesome repackaged Humbrol glue with a 100-200% mark up and less volume then normal. GW at it's best.

Yup. I still have three bottles of GW's old thick super glue (or as plainly, super glue), and this new stuff is a disgrace. I've put together two battleforces with an old bottle of glue, and I'll be lucky to get even one out of this new stuff. Seems like they kept the crappy old cap that always had a swimming pool of glue in the top :/

if GW are going to rip an idea they should really pick one that works......that pin always gets clogged up -_-

which is why I use "big ass bottles for £1" super glue....like normal people

DPBellathrom wrote:if GW are going to rip an idea they should really pick one that works......that pin always gets clogged up -_-

Which is why Testors includes this little piece of wire with each bottle.

Or you can do what I do and hold a lighter under the needle for a few seconds later. One puff of toxic smoke later (do this near a window kids!) and it's back in business.

It's about time GW caught up with this I've been using this Revell version for years.



...probably still will TBH.

It's not so much catching up as going back to.
GW used to sell a thin plastic glue.
Glad to see it back though.

Knights-Abhorrent wrote:Is this really news?

>_>

No, it's glues.

Also, I have a pot of that Revell stuff, and I find it to be horrible for 2 reasons:

- The metal applicator gets clogged up.
- The metal applicator becomes detached from the pot.

I ended up throwing out the metal piece and applying it straight from the hole in the yellow plastic.

Wondering if the GW version will have the same problems. If it doesn't, I might just buy it.

I prefer a brush applicator for poly cement.

The metal tube can be put back into the pot. I remove it all the time to clear it when it gets clogged up. Which can be done using a thin wire or the method HBMC suggested.