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I was just wondering what everyone's experience has been with adhesives... I have had the best luck with Crazy glue it does not leave the white opaque residue that regular super glue seems to leave when repairing finished models that lose an arm or piece. It also seems to adhere quicker when assembling models. Just wondered what everyone opinions are. Cheers all.

After an initial dalliance with Zap-a-gap (which tended to go stale and loose adhesion when I got about halfway through a bottle) I switched to the three-packs of little .07 oz squeeze tubes of generic super glue. Once opened, they don't last long enough to go stale.

And there is a pretty regular supply of them at the local dollar stores, so it's pretty cheap too.

"when all else fails use aroldite."

If i just cant get the superglue to stick strongly enough to work or if theres very little contact area.

Its the glue which come's in two parts.

The only disadvantage being that it needs 30 seconds to a minute of mixing first then takes about 7 minutes to dry. 24 hours to dry completely.

But it is very strong glue

Araldite + pins for metals. Superglue is fine for a battlefield repair - but when I get it home, I scrape the stuff off and re-glue with araldite.

For plastics, I use either the Revell Contacta Professional bottle or the same stuff in a jar applied with a brush. Have used it for about the last 18 or so years.

Haven't used GW branded glues except for a one-off (was playing in the Sydney Battle bunker on a sunday and the other game/hobby stores were closed.)

chromedog wrote:For plastics, I use either the Revell Contacta Professional bottle or the same stuff in a jar applied with a brush. Have used it for about the last 18 or so years.

Nobody in the States carries the Revell from what I've seen. Best I've found here is Testors Modelmaster with the metal tip, works great on plastics.

Loctite Gel Control super glue has been my go-to for everything else and no problems thus far.

I use a lot of Zap a Gap, with little issues. Although I prefer other modelling CA specifically from Bob Smith, because it comes in different viscosities and reacts well to insta-set (it's got a real name I swear) a little differently.

zap a gap ca for all of our crew

martyrbymoonlight wrote:

chromedog wrote:For plastics, I use either the Revell Contacta Professional bottle or the same stuff in a jar applied with a brush. Have used it for about the last 18 or so years.

Nobody in the States carries the Revell from what I've seen. Best I've found here is Testors Modelmaster with the metal tip, works great on plastics.

Loctite Gel Control super glue has been my go-to for everything else and no problems thus far.

You can get the same stuff from Testors (Modelmaster has a different shaped bottle, but the contents are the same) and Tamiya also have the liquid poly in a jar stuff (brush built into lid).
Testors probably have the modelmaster stuff in a jar also. We tend to get Testors, Revell, Tamiya, Mr Hobby, and a bunch of others down here at the ass-end of the modelling world.

I've long preferred the liquid type cement to the gel-type gunge-in-a-tube(tm) that you often used to get in starter model kits (basic aircraft and stuff).

Revel plastic glue for plastics. Have also used Humbrols plastic glue with great success.
Generic super glue (CA) for metals and Finecost.

I suggest not to use any GW-related glue products.
In my experience they all dry out quicker and bonds worse than any other brand of products I have tried.

I use Zap-aGap with an accelerator. Takes about 15 seconds to harden completely. On Plastic models I use Tanax plastic welder. I apply it with a small applicator and it is very viscous. I sucks into seems well and creates a fantastic bond. It takes about 5 minutes to harden, so ti gives you good time to reposition if necesary. Becasue it melts the plastic you can fill in small seems as you are assembling your model. I used this on a squad of bloodletters and they look like they are one piece.

Zap a gap FOR EVERYTHING

the stuff is amazing zip kicker pen is nice if you need imediate setting ]


stuff holds so good it liek melts the plastics to each other they wont come off i could throw my guardsmen out my window and they would be ok

only thing is when you use it keep the cap on cuz the vapors burn my eyes abit if i leavethe cap open

Plastic - Testors in the orange tube with metal tip. Dries fast, great bond and it's not stringy. Switched to this after getting frustrated with GW's plastic glue.

Metal/Resin - Loctite Gel. Inexpensive, available everywhere, easy to use.


Both of these glues give off vapours that can sting your eyes, so try to use them in a ventilated area.

When I first began modelling, I had great success with Zap-a-gap. Now I use Gorilla Glue.

I use Bob Smith Industries, all 3 variants depending on the job but mostly the "purple" one.

Zip kicker. What a waste.

I get the same results with a dropper bottle of water. One drop -> done. A tissue soaks up the excess water.

The best results are obtained from using the right glue for the right material. For plastic, I use polystyrene cement from Humbrol:



For metal, I use some cheap own brand super glue from Wickes (a hardware store here in the UK):



I also use this super glue when gluing plastic to metal. If the super glue fails, then I use some Araldite.

Thanks guys for all the feedback... I am writing these ideas down for ideas on other glues to use, esp with some of the new metal models I have a difficult time making them stick... cheers all.