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Hey everyone! It's Dex from SML. Sorry for the lack of updates, it's been hectic finishing up my undergrad, but as of last sunday, that objective is complete.
That being said, there are some pretty cool updates coming down the pipes.
First of all, in case you didn't know, the roads that I posted up earlier are now available on www.sharkmountedlasers.com Ya'll should check out the website, as I just updated it this weekend. It has a much cleaner feel now, and isn't worthless on mobile.
Here's a preview of an upcoming series of buildings for our "Neo-Tokyo" set!
Uncanny, I was just designing the layout for a 4x4 Neo-tokyo board yesterday! Too bad that shipping this stuff over the pond is so blinking expensive :(
Yeah, I'm trying to figure our why shipping some flat pack MDF is so expensive for you. I've ordered flat pack MDF terrain from the UK with only a 5 quid shipping fee.
Is it just the US has insane shipping charges? I've ordered from the US for other stuff and the only thing that's cost me a lot was foam, and that's because it made a huge, bulky box.
Siygess wrote:Uncanny, I was just designing the layout for a 4x4 Neo-tokyo board yesterday! Too bad that shipping this stuff over the pond is so blinking expensive :(
The ultimate tease really hahaha. Yeah, I've spent months trying to find cheaper alternatives to get it across the pond with little luck. Potentially down the road as I expand, I might seek out a European distributor, but right now it's not economically solvent to do that.
-Loki- wrote:Yeah, I'm trying to figure our why shipping some flat pack MDF is so expensive for you. I've ordered flat pack MDF terrain from the UK with only a 5 quid shipping fee.
Is it just the US has insane shipping charges? I've ordered from the US for other stuff and the only thing that's cost me a lot was foam, and that's because it made a huge, bulky box.
As for how it's so expensive, honestly, I have no bloody clue why the United States is baned with obnoxious shipping rates. The deathknell really came a few years ago when they got rid of slow boat shipping. Now every major delivery service does airmail exclusively including USPS. After months of searching for a cheaper alternative, I just stuck with USPS and called it a day because it wasn't going any where.
On top of that, I've had some of my international posts arrive in barbaric condition with entire sections of the box ripped off and hodge podged back together again.
The U.S. is just set on being an import economy haha.
That's a shame. I was ready to drop quite a bit of money on some of this, and I know I'm not alone on this side of the pond.
Munster had a good idea above - there's plenty of terrain laser cutters around the place - UK, NZ, Australia. Ever thought about partnering with one to get your product to the rest of the world?
I've followed this thread with interest and taken much inspiration from it's pages that I will use in the future when I get around to building more terrain.
In the mean time, I realised that Infinity tables appears to have quite a lot of small scatter terrain pieces and I thought that I'd plug some boxes that I have for sale.
Carved to represent wooden boxes and cast in resin. The sprue is also carved to represent wood so that it's not wasted.
I have designed them to be made from their separate walls so that they can be modified to be broken boxes or stacked cleverly to represent more boxes than you have (by only showing the outer walls) or even filled with things (to represent ammo dumps and the like).
These are also designed to match 28mm scale. The various sizes and combinations of the finished boxes allow for a variety of "cover saves" or LoS blocking.
Box 1 (medium) - 26x25x22mm (l, w, h) when constructed.
Box 2 (small) - 18x19x23mm (l, w, h) when constructed.
Box 3 (large) - 22x22x35mm (l, w, h) when constructed.
As you receive them:
And examples of what you can do with them:
PM me if you are interested, or check my trade thread here on DD.
I also have scale toilets for sale.
Thanks
Mastodon: @DrH@dice.camp
The army- ~2295 points (built).
* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial * Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!
Dr H, did you make those shack walls just off the sprues? Ive seen a thread around here somewhere of a guy who did it with regular sprues that he just had to cut and detail, but that looked very time consuming. Also it does look like someones dropped a nuke in those toilets.
If your attack is going too well, you have walked into an ambush
rahxephon wrote: Dr H, did you make those shack walls just off the sprues? Ive seen a thread around here somewhere of a guy who did it with regular sprues that he just had to cut and detail, but that looked very time consuming. Also it does look like someones dropped a nuke in those toilets.
Yeah that was me. The boxes were originally sculpted the same way.
yeah, well that toilet is based on those from Fallout 3, so "nuke" is a very apt word.
Mastodon: @DrH@dice.camp
The army- ~2295 points (built).
* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial * Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!
Red Harvest wrote:Brilliant idea, making the sprue 'wood'.
Thanks. That came about due to my use of "normal" sprue in my model making, which ultimately led to my building the Hut almost entirely from sprue.
Many comments I had were about how nice it worked, but looked like a lot of work to do themselves. So I thought, if I was going to be selling things on my own sprue, why not make it useful to start with and there would be a lot less wastage in other people's modelling.
Now, we need to talk the Dr. into building a dropship
Maybe one day, but I have to work up to that via the rest of the bathroom, more boxes and I do plan to make a kit to build a hut similar to mine. Progress is sadly slow though.
Pacific wrote:A wooden dropship?
Very nice Dr H, a nice change to a lot of the more sci-fi focused releases.
Thanks. Whatever the setting; past, future, terrestrial or alien. Wooden boxes will always fit in. I have many potential designs for other boxes (and other things) that I will get around to eventually, just thought that I would start with something more universal first.
Mastodon: @DrH@dice.camp
The army- ~2295 points (built).
* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial * Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!
Anyway, to get on topic, I've been slowly making progress on some of the buildings for my Bourak table. See the progress, updated earlier this week, by clicking the red harvest banner in my sig. And feel free to leave C&C.
Not sure if I should have created a new thread, or if this suits my needs.
If not, I apologize.
Just got my big box of terrain and materials on the front door. I bought about 10 sheet of the Plastcraft. It's made from PVC, but it feels like a cushion but still durable.
Anyone make anything with these?
Plan on making a store front or small plaza with them and then start using them for my bunker flooring.
Wish the had more variety of sizes of hex patterns. Something a lot smaller and larger.
They physical quality seems like an x-acto knife will cut through them with several slight passes.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/05/30 20:31:15
NOT quite as easily as it would through foamcore - and it WILL take the edge off the blades faster, but it cuts easily.
I've got a couple of their modular building packs. None of the rounded ones, and FLGS hasn't got the new bourak stuff yet.
Glues readily with superglue (PLASTIC glue WILL NOT WORK unless it's also a PVC adhesive) but be warned, the superglue will take pretty much immediately, so repositioning stuff after you apply glue probably isn't going to happen without damage.
I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
It's not recommended.
PVA is best for porous things like wood or paper. I tried using pva to hold some foamcore internal walls in place in my buildings.
The glue dried fine, but as soon as I moved it, it let go. As in, I picked the building up to see if it took. If you can't pack it away for transport without it falling apart, then the bond is a fail.
You don't need a lot of superglue, either. A couple of small drops at each join will do the job.
Get over your dislike of superglue for this - or your stuff won't hold together very well. It's about the ONLY foam that won't melt from the stuff.
I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
think I am going to score the back and use liquid nails or resin cement.
wonder if I can dip it in hot water (shower temp?) to help aid it when I need to bend it.
It bends by it self fairly easily, but I want to give it more form when I glue it.
Cutting it with a band saw leaves rough edges just like pvc pipe, unlike the plastic sheets from ever green. But should not be a problem, I plan on bevel cutting the edges. Perhaps leaving the rough edge will be more beneficial when gluing?
Should I give it a light cleaning first?
and should I give it a light sanding before priming? Will primer bond well to it? Are there primers I should avoid causing it to melt?
I undercoated mine with an etching auto primer - so apart from a light wipe over first off, it needed no cleaning (oh, PEEL off the clear plastic protective sheeting on the stuff, too. It's to stop the surface getting scuffed up in transit). No melting that I have seen. This ISN'T styrene foam. It needs SERIOUS solvents to damage it (like MEK or ACETONE/MEK cocktails used by plumbers).
You can use hot water, but it really doesn't need it. It's not like styrene in that regard (where you form the curves with hot water and plunge in cold to set them).
If using an epoxy adhesive, scuff up any areas you want the glue to hold to - epoxies love surface area - as much as superglues do.
If you cut it with a bandsaw, you need a slow speed and preferably a watercooled blade (AND a very fine toothed blade - high tpi count) and you'll still need to sand the edges back - it's a side effect of the way those saws cut. The slow speed and watercooling are to prevent it burning from the cutting process - because burning this stuff is bad).
I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
So far all I've done is get the peices off the frame, and it has been the worst Infinity terrain experience I've gone through. This building has so many peices, little connectors and other gubbins that I cannot possibly see as being needed for the structural integrity of the building. It's just loony.
Also, some of the peices looked like they were cut all the way through, but when I tried snapping them off, some were damaged because the laser cut wasn't through entirely, and not even on the holding tabs. Like, whole lengths of a peice came away with massive amounts of wood flash.
On top of that, some very fiddly bits were placed so close to others that one bit outright broke.
This will be the first and last MAS building I buy.
I snapped a wall piece at the thin bit over the door for the MAS apartment building, trying to fit it together, but after a few moments swearing and a few minutes repairing with PVA, you'd be hard pressed to see the break. Of the terrain I've tried so far, the MAS stuff is certainly the hardest to build but does look pretty cool when done.
I just got some in the mail today in hopes making some enlarged casts of some toy cars that fit within the infinity universe (in style) but are far too small to actually use.
Guys, hoping someone can help; does anyone know which company it was that made the 'TAG hanger' ? Sure I remember seeing one a while ago, although it's possibly a figment of my imagination!
I need one that will fit a Maghariba (without it having to squeeze out sideways) so might wait to see what the Sarissa and Antenociti ones turn out like!
yeah, well that toilet is based on those from Fallout 3, so "nuke" is a very apt word. 
