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Made in us
Water-Caste Negotiator





West Virginia

I had been using Citadel plastic glue basically since I started the 40k hobby, but I don't really care for their newer stuff. I liked the consistency of the older glue(it was thicker) and I have had issues with the new glue drying up inside the thin metal applicator part. What are some good glues that would be more similar to the older Citadel plastic glue? Thanks!
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





I dunno if it's similar but I use Testor's non-toxic either in the blue tube or in the little applicator bottle. After years of exposure I've developed a allergic reaction to anything else.
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

I've been using Revell Contacta Professional (its the fancy name for the plastic glue in a pot with a metal needle applicator). And found it to be a very reliable glue.

Note that apparently there was a change in plastic glues over the years and I think a few nasty chemicals have been swapped out so glues today do work a tiny bit differently to how they used too.


That said things like glue drying in the metal rod have always been a problem that used to plague me until a helpful gamer told me a really fantastic tip for clearing them.


First remove the metal needle from the pot and stick the plastic cap on the pot (to prevent any spillage and fumes). Now with the metal rod secure it or get someone to hold it with something - I've used needle pliers to hold mine.

Now simply get a match or other naked small flame (lighter) and burn the rod. The plastic glue catches fire very easily so you basically burn it out of the rod. I find holding it so that the end points down at the flame and doing this for both ends works great. You'll get a splutter of flame and the rod will go black with soot.

One match normally has enough life to clean it up. I then give it a quick (careful its still hot but cools quick) rub to ge the soot off and put it back in the pot and its ready to go.

Note don't use a flame when the applicator is still attached to the bottle, for obvious reasons you don't want to burn all your glue or make a fireball


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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






stopped using thick glue 5 years ago.
now it is water consistensy with brush applicator only glues. 0 mess, instant drying.


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Made in gb
Wise Ethereal with Bodyguard







I also use revel contacta. I used a super thin ultrarast drying one in the past but I found that it dried too quickly. I like having a few seconds of grace to adjust the bits before the plastic resets.

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[DCM]
Procrastinator extraordinaire





Edinburgh, UK

I use Revell Contacta as well and have done for years, it's my go to but considering trying out thin cement instead as it has a fast setting time.

   
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Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

Super glue and pins. I tried the citadel poly cement I got with conquest, but the joins it makes are super weak.. Able to be pulled apart easily.

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Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Revell Contacta pro for the styrene stuff.
The proper toluene stuff, not the n-butyl acetate current stuff (I had a few bottles of it stashed away when they changed formulation because the EU changed its policies on Toluene and ROHS regs).

For hybrids - resin+plastic, resin+metal, or full-metal or full-resin, then superglue.


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Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine





Cloud City, Bespin

I use revell contaca only because I'm looking for one similar to the citadel poly cement tube (white with blue text) not too thick and not too thin and definitely better than the old brush on PC

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
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Stalwart Dark Angels Space Marine





Charlotte, NC

I really like Tamiya extra thin that comes in the bottle with the applicator brush. very clean and easy to use and a bottle lasts a long time

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Painlord Titan Princeps of Slaanesh





Hamilton, ON

I usually use the stuff in the blue pot/yellow collar. Remel, or Hemel or something, but currently I have Citadel stuff.

It's very 'runny' in comparison. And vastly more expensive. Sticks just as well, though.

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Fixture of Dakka





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 Freeflow44 wrote:
I really like Tamiya extra thin that comes in the bottle with the applicator brush. very clean and easy to use and a bottle lasts a long time


Just like Freeflow44 I use Tamiya as well. On my second bottle in over a decade and it will likely go for another five to ten years. A very small amount brushed on each side of the join makes polystyrene bond and basically stronger that the regular plastic on either side of the join.

My two cents,

CB

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Gorilla super glue on literally everything. Bonds far better than anything else IMO.



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Legendary Master of the Chapter






Tamya super thin

also Sci grip 4 the industrial stuff.

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 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

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Send help!

 
   
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Androgynous Daemon Prince of Slaanesh





Norwalk, Connecticut

The cheap stuff from Wal-Mart! No seriously, it used to be in black and yellow bottles, now blue and white. Works well on any material. I never understood the desire to melt sections of plastic together. Make a weapon-choice whoopsie? Tough; buy a new box/mini. Nah, I’m happy w/my superglue.

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Captain Brown wrote:
 Freeflow44 wrote:
I really like Tamiya extra thin that comes in the bottle with the applicator brush. very clean and easy to use and a bottle lasts a long time


Just like Freeflow44 I use Tamiya as well. On my second bottle in over a decade and it will likely go for another five to ten years. A very small amount brushed on each side of the join makes polystyrene bond and basically stronger that the regular plastic on either side of the join.

My two cents,

CB


i guess all things are relevant here in terms of how mutch plastic you actualy glue.
my bottle lasted only 3 years.

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Fresh-Faced New User




Atlanta, GA

Loctite gel control
   
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Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

Super Glue from dollar shop.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/07/29 14:20:14


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Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Dallas area, TX

Either Testors plastic cement, or the Citadel brand (LGS was out of Testors, so I just got what they had).
But never EVER superglue for plastic to plastic. Too much potential for mess and a pain to swap out parts if you need to swap weapons years later.

-

   
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[DCM]
Moustache-twirling Princeps





Gone-to-ground in the craters of Coventry

Humbrol thin pot with a brush-lid for sub-assemblies and quick bits.
'Zap-a-gap' thick and thin type for glued or non-styrene parts.

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Fixture of Dakka





I just use superglue for everything.
   
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Purposeful Hammerhead Pilot




United States

Loctite Gel super glue
   
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Powerful Phoenix Lord





For plastic models, simple Model Master cement (black carton, metal applicator). A quality plastic glue takes effect almost immediately, so you shouldn't need "thickness" (that's better reserved for super glue). You only need a tiny amount of plastic cement to get something to work. Using too much will actually make it more difficult.

The metal applicator can be cleaned out in two easy ways: 1) hit it with a lighter or match, or 2) As intended, pop the metal applicator out, reverse it, and stick it back in - the glue in the reservoir will clear the stoppage naturally.

Obviously, avoid GW glue at all costs. No point in paying twice as much for the same product (this is a great general rule for 90% of their hobby supplies).

If you're concerned about future-proofing your models, you could use super glue but that's a bit of an overhyped problem (particularly if you're not in the tournament/meta chasing mode).
   
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Imperial Agent Provocateur





Los Angeles

+1 for loctite ultra gel control super glue.
You'll never need anything else. Works perfectly fine on plastics, it's all i ever use no matter what the material - been hobbying for years.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/07/29 21:38:03



 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





While I don't use superglue on plastics, I will say that my go-to super glue is also: Loctite Gel
   
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Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon




Finland

If I can hold the plastic pieces together and they form a good contact surface I'll use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (with a brush applicator). It evaporates so quickly that you can't really use it on "open" surfaces. For those surfaces I use plastic cement with a needle applicator. Can't really remember the brand right now but it's basically the same as Revell's needle tip glue (which I have also used in the past).

I use Gorilla Super Glue to glue models to bases and also on select places where a possible change in game meta might warrant a weapon swap in the future...

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Fixture of Dakka





West Michigan, deep in Whitebread, USA

The generic gap filler superglue from hobby shops (with the purple label) for non-plastic, and the black applicator bottle from Testors. Actually had the same Testors bottle for years and years now.



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Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka






When the bottle of Citadel plastic glue I got with Conquest issue 1 ran out, I refilled it with the Revell stuff, because the Citadel bottle is transparent so I can see how much is left.
   
Made in ie
Regular Dakkanaut




 Overread wrote:
I've been using Revell Contacta Professional (its the fancy name for the plastic glue in a pot with a metal needle applicator). And found it to be a very reliable glue.

Note that apparently there was a change in plastic glues over the years and I think a few nasty chemicals have been swapped out so glues today do work a tiny bit differently to how they used too.


That said things like glue drying in the metal rod have always been a problem that used to plague me until a helpful gamer told me a really fantastic tip for clearing them.

Spoiler:

First remove the metal needle from the pot and stick the plastic cap on the pot (to prevent any spillage and fumes). Now with the metal rod secure it or get someone to hold it with something - I've used needle pliers to hold mine.

Now simply get a match or other naked small flame (lighter) and burn the rod. The plastic glue catches fire very easily so you basically burn it out of the rod. I find holding it so that the end points down at the flame and doing this for both ends works great. You'll get a splutter of flame and the rod will go black with soot.

One match normally has enough life to clean it up. I then give it a quick (careful its still hot but cools quick) rub to ge the soot off and put it back in the pot and its ready to go.

Note don't use a flame when the applicator is still attached to the bottle, for obvious reasons you don't want to burn all your glue or make a fireball



Very useful to know, thank you.

I use the Revell as well. It has the best applicator bottle by fair imho, and the glue doed the job nicely.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2019/08/02 10:38:34


 
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

Super glue, but will probably use plastic glue from now no based on what i have herd from dakka participants.


Didn't notice there was already a thread about this before i made the other one, my bad.

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