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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Riverside, CA USA

Got my full rulebook pdf over the weekend but I haven't had a chance to really dig in to the rules. Watched the character creation video linked and the he also posted the first scenario video today. I'm digging it so far, I really like that it sticks to the traditional D&D tropes, that was a big turnoff for 5 Leagues from the Borderlands, which has races that can counts-as dwarves, and can counts-as elves etc, but this is one less mental gymnastic to do. Elves in LT just get bonus to agi and ranged attacks but lose a defense. Dwarves get a simple stat bonus and stout rule, etc. Just enough to have a small effect on the stats. Doesn't need to be gamechanging, but for me I need something to differentiate an elf from a dwarf from an orc, and this looks like it fits that really well. When a statline can be anything, there's no reason for it to be anything.

Now to figure out what I want to get ready to fight and where to fight it over. One great thing about RoSD is it certainly steered you in a clear direction for enemies and terrain in each scenario

~Kalamadea (aka ember)
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Here is the second video



Questions to you guys with the PDF:
1. Is 5 the max for the enemies of a single type (like in demo)? For example, will I encounter max 5 skeletons on the table (I know enemies can resurrect) in a single game = do I need max 5 skeletons to play this game?
2. Do I get to choose ranged or melee enemies of the same type or is it always specified? For example, do I need to field melee orcs or can I choose ranged ones if I want unless scenario says otherwise?
3. What is the max nr of civilians needed for this game? Previously it was d6+1. Is it still valid?

Also all other info about the game you could share here would be welcome
   
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> 1. Is 5 the max for the enemies of a single type (like in demo)?
> For example, will I encounter max 5 skeletons on the table (I know enemies can resurrect) in a single game = do I need max 5 skeletons to play this game?

Sort of! You select and "purchase" the number of adversary models at the beginning of the game. These aren't the exact rules (see p.67), but here's the gist:

1. Total the number of levels in your party. Frex, you have two first-level Heroes, so that's two levels.
2. Spend this number of levels on adversaries. So that's two level's worth of adversaries. For Skeleton Warriors, two levels of skeletons is five models. But if you don't own any skeleton models, you could spend two levels of zombies, which are also five models.

Of course, the undelivered FS miniatures have enough mini's for your typical game. If you want an atypical game with more of the same monster, you can. So with five level 2 heroes, you can have 5 skeletons (1x Level 2) and 20 zombies (4x Level 2).


> 2. Do I get to choose ranged or melee enemies of the same type or is it always specified?

You get to choose, unless the scenario says otherwise. For better or for worse, the rules give you enough leeway with adversaries and terrain that you can have a broken game. For example, you could put fences around each spawning point, or choose nothing but slow melee units (eg. zombies). Since I cheat I prefer a randomizer for terrain (another plug for Terra Tiles) and monsters (FS card deck or whatever).


> 3. What is the max nr of civilians needed for this game? Previously it was d6+1. Is it still valid?

Yes, but they don't last long. They make excellent cannon fodder to keep adversaries from your heroes. All they can do is Move, but that's enough.


> Also all other info about the game you could share here would be welcome

Taunting is hilarious. (Taunting seems to be fixed in the Core Rules.) You spend your Action to Taunt, and Adversaries within 12" treat you as the target. You spend your Action Taunting so can't Run, which means your Adversaries eventually catch up to you -- on Open ground. If you're on a hill, you Taunt and your Adversaries have to make Agility checks to climb up, and slow down on the Difficult terrain. When your opponents are Giant Rats, they're shorter than you are, so their checks to climb are harder. My strategy may be to hire new heroes or Followers each scenario so they can taunt once we run out of Civilians.

Spawning is slow in the Demo, but seems to be fixed in the Core Rules. In the Demo, only a few models spawned.

Ranger was easier to play than the Thief. Ranger has a bow, and 8" ranged attacks are much better than melee and 6" thrown, since you can attack more often. The board is 3x3, so even 8" means you can cover a fair area. In the Demo, the Wizard was more useful to pass INT checks for Clues than for spellcasting. The Demo has you putting two Clues on terrain elements of your choice, so I put them on the hills and gave the Wizard the climbing rope. Climbing and jumping away from a trapped pit was more important than spellcasting for him, although he Distracted a zombie to get out of his way and used up half of his Power points to kill a lousy skeleton. Maybe you'll have better luck!

Burn Fate. If you have a player who fails but thinks they'll just try again next turn, you will lose the Demo scenario. The Demo (and other) scenarios are timed. You'll have to split the party and make sure each smaller group succeeds as soon as possible. You don't want to wait for someone on the other side of the board to make a check while the monsters are coming after you!

Alpha player: The Demo scenario, imo, requires each smaller group to succeed in collecting the Clue token they're going after, so it's easy for an Alpha player to make another player do what he wants. However, you could select scenarios that forgive independent actions, and have a gamemaster and modify play so that better players have more enemy spawns near them, etc.

Treasure: Don't know if it's better to try to open Treasure or spend the additional Action for something else, like Running.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2022/04/21 05:12:33


NotifyGrout's Goobertown Hobbies DIY Contrast mix:
* 1 drop matte medium
* 1 drop flow-aid water mixture (1:20)
* 1 drop acrylic ink

My own:
* White-primed miniature lightly pre-inked in a dark shade.
* 1 drop acrylic ink in a small pot of paint (eg. children's craft paint). Do not mix.
* Dip the brush in the ink. As you paint, you can dip into the paint to make the layer more opaque. 
   
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Big thanks for the anwers!
More questions, if you do not mind
1. What weapons are available for heroes, both melee and ranged? Is it important if I have axe or sword or spear or halberd etc. or are they all handled as the hand weapon/two handed weapon/polearm etc.?
2. What party level are huge monsters like giant, hydra, dragon? I expect you need a very experienced party to face them?
3. Are there limits for enemy spellcasters that you could include or do they work like the rest of enemies?
4. What types of followers could be included in the party?
   
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> 1. What weapons are available for heroes, both melee and ranged? Is it important if I have axe or sword or spear or halberd etc. or are they all handled as the hand weapon/two handed weapon/polearm etc.?

Good question. For heroes, each specific weapon will have a stat, and you can choose your weapon and armor, depending on your class. All Adversaries of the same type will all be armed with the same weapon.

> 2. What party level are huge monsters like giant, hydra, dragon?

Mature Dragon: Level 8
Giant: Level 6
Hydra: Level 6

Haven't tried four Level 2 heroes vs. a Mature Dragon, though...

> 3. Are there limits for enemy spellcasters that you could include or do they work like the rest of enemies?

Typically, an Adversary spellcaster will roll on their table before activating. See the Demo Necromancer!

> 4. What types of followers could be included in the party?

HIrelings: Apothecary, Archer. Hirelings can be hired in a settlement and stay with the party after the scenario.
Ally: Djin, Town Guard. Allies join usually through special events and only stay with the party until the end of a scenario.

*****

I also should mention that each player may want to control two heroes. A chaotic player may want to do something "interesting" each turn, but this may result in reckless actions that will lose the game. So while the cleric was critical in the Demo to obtain a Clue token and consecrate the Cursed Tomb, he didn't need to do anything else during the game. The Barbarian mostly spent the game protecting the Cleric, rather than going on the offensive. We need more reckless non-cooperative coop games where one player's stupidity doesn't affect your chances of winning.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2022/04/21 12:23:35


NotifyGrout's Goobertown Hobbies DIY Contrast mix:
* 1 drop matte medium
* 1 drop flow-aid water mixture (1:20)
* 1 drop acrylic ink

My own:
* White-primed miniature lightly pre-inked in a dark shade.
* 1 drop acrylic ink in a small pot of paint (eg. children's craft paint). Do not mix.
* Dip the brush in the ink. As you paint, you can dip into the paint to make the layer more opaque. 
   
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So only 4 followers? I was expecting more to choose from, especially some animals. As to enemy spellcasters - by limits I meant if you can include more than 1 or are you free to add as many as your party level allows? In other words, can I face a witch coven?
   
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Lessee...

> So only 4 followers?

Not quite -- "The total Levels of all a Hero’s Followers may never exceed the Hero’s own Level (for example, a Level 3 Hero may recruit three Level 1 Followers, or a Level 1 and a Level 2, etc.)."

11 different hirelings. You'd probably only want to hire a hireling that compliments your group (eg. men-at-arms if you don't have enough fighters). HIrelings cost gold, while Heroes you split XP with.

Allies join your party through events or items (eg. Djinn only appears if you have the lamp Legendary Item), so I don't think you have a choice of who joins.

> animals

You can gain an Animal Companion (eg. cat) or Familiar (only adds Power to the character). eg. A Druid can have an Animal Companion as a subclass choice. A Wizard may gain a Familiar as a Skill. Or you roll the even "Stray Dog" and acquire a Dog Companion. Animal Companions increase Living Expenses.

> In other words, can I face a witch coven?

Sure can! You can also have a party of wizards. Obviously, a specialized party or group of adversaries may be more vulnerable, but may be thematic or who cares if you're playing solo.

EDIT: I'M GOING TO BE A PALADIN 'CUZ I GET A POLE ARM. Pole arms are two-handed for 1d6+2, while a sword and shield is 1d6 and an armor roll, which has a 1/3 chance of reducing damage by one. However, Fighters can't get them, only Paladins can.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2022/04/22 00:32:01


NotifyGrout's Goobertown Hobbies DIY Contrast mix:
* 1 drop matte medium
* 1 drop flow-aid water mixture (1:20)
* 1 drop acrylic ink

My own:
* White-primed miniature lightly pre-inked in a dark shade.
* 1 drop acrylic ink in a small pot of paint (eg. children's craft paint). Do not mix.
* Dip the brush in the ink. As you paint, you can dip into the paint to make the layer more opaque. 
   
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Could you please list all hirelings? It is important for me to know what minis I may need.
Paladins - now I want one too. Halberds for the win!
   
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Sure!

Who knows if and when we'll get these models from BLG, right?

You may already have "heroic" miniatures that can be used as hirelings.

Hirelings:
* Apothecary
* Archer
* Footpad
* Guard (Spear)
* Man at Arms (Sword)
* Minstrel
* Scout (Crossbow Pistol)
* Ogre Bodyguard (Ogre club)
* Squire
* Sgt at Arms (Crossbow Pistol)

Allies:
* Djinn
* Constable
* Halfling Cook
* Innkeeper
* Street Vendor
* Wood Elf Wayfarer (Bow)

I'm a munchkin so ended up with these guys. When going after objectives, split the party in two.
* Two Dwarf Paladins (high defense) with Pole Arms (higher damage than hand weapons). Dwarves will alternate Taunting 12" away from each other to force Adversaries to run back and forth between them.
* Two Elf Rangers (high ranged attacks) with crossbows and spears (higher damage than bows and hand weapons). Hide in trees or behind Dwarves while Dwarves Taunt.
* One Half-Orc Bard (above average STR and WIL for miscellaneous Tests). Bards can give Advantage (roll extra die and drop worst die) to himself and nearby friendly models. Not sure if he's worth using.

Yeah, good luck to me finding models for these guys...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/04/22 05:27:29


NotifyGrout's Goobertown Hobbies DIY Contrast mix:
* 1 drop matte medium
* 1 drop flow-aid water mixture (1:20)
* 1 drop acrylic ink

My own:
* White-primed miniature lightly pre-inked in a dark shade.
* 1 drop acrylic ink in a small pot of paint (eg. children's craft paint). Do not mix.
* Dip the brush in the ink. As you paint, you can dip into the paint to make the layer more opaque. 
   
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Big thanks! I hope that they will make a PDF available for non backers soon because print version in retail will probably not be seen in many months yet.
   
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 Shadow Walker wrote:
Big thanks! I hope that they will make a PDF available for non backers soon because print version in retail will probably not be seen in many months yet.

My thoughts exactly. Have any backers seen any mention of release to the rest of us?

   
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> Paladins - now I want one too. Halberds for the win!

I wanna throttle whoever thought dwarven paladins with pole arms (1d6+2 damage, two-handed) was a good idea. Of course, you could use a two-handed longsword instead, if you don't mind something similar to a Great Weapon (1d6+3, Cumbersome (-2 attack penalty), Two-Handed) on your model. For the OCD modellers, you could house-rule that short swords are the Hand Weapons doing 1d6, while two-handed long swords have Pole Arm stats, and Great Weapons are, afaik, not worth the attack penalty at first level!

> Have any backers seen any mention of release to the rest of us?

I'll let you know if and when I find out. BLG didn't originally intend to give FS1 backers the PDF, so who knows when they intend to sell the PDF. IMO, PDF is much better than the hardback. Frex, for "Create a Hero", you can print out the "Level 1 Hero Base Profile", "Secondary Characteristics", and "Armor and Weapon page for each player, as well as their Race, Class, and any terminology (eg. Stout for the Dwarf). Blank character sheets are included, but who needs to write when you can circle and highlight on a printout? You can also only print out the scenario that you're playing, as well as only the stats for the models you'll use in the game.

BTW, If you want exactly weapon loadouts for your models, look at the Hand of Glory miniatures, which has swappable weapons, shields, hands, etc. They don't have every body type you may want, though (eg. no half-orcs or orcs). I did find a half-orc bard proxy -- a Mantic orc beating a war drum!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/04/22 21:53:58


NotifyGrout's Goobertown Hobbies DIY Contrast mix:
* 1 drop matte medium
* 1 drop flow-aid water mixture (1:20)
* 1 drop acrylic ink

My own:
* White-primed miniature lightly pre-inked in a dark shade.
* 1 drop acrylic ink in a small pot of paint (eg. children's craft paint). Do not mix.
* Dip the brush in the ink. As you paint, you can dip into the paint to make the layer more opaque. 
   
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 ced1106 wrote:

* Two Elf Rangers (high ranged attacks) with crossbows and spears (higher damage than bows and hand weapons).

Yeah, good luck to me finding models for these guys...

GW Dark Elfs Darkshards have crossbows, and their kit allows you to build also spears and swords, so maybe it could be useful for you?
   
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I am so hyped for this game that even converted GW Rockgut Troll to use as both Earth Elemental/Shambling Mound.
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 ced1106 wrote:

> Have any backers seen any mention of release to the rest of us?

I'll let you know if and when I find out. BLG didn't originally intend to give FS1 backers the PDF, so who knows when they intend to sell the PDF. IMO, PDF is much better than the hardback. Frex, for "Create a Hero", you can print out the "Level 1 Hero Base Profile", "Secondary Characteristics", and "Armor and Weapon page for each player, as well as their Race, Class, and any terminology (eg. Stout for the Dwarf). Blank character sheets are included, but who needs to write when you can circle and highlight on a printout? You can also only print out the scenario that you're playing, as well as only the stats for the models you'll use in the game.

Thanks much. I really hope they do let us purchase the pdf. For the reasons you outlined as well as for update-ability. lol I'll even most likely buy the hardback just to have it but an up to date pdf is much appreciated over printing out FAQ and Errata sheets.

   
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New pics
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> Have any backers seen any mention of release to the rest of us?

Well, we just had an update, and all for the book we have is "Book: Files have been sent to the factory, currently under revision". No mention of a PDF for sale, so I asked in the update.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/blacklistgames/lasting-tales-a-fantasy-miniatures-game/posts/3515489

NotifyGrout's Goobertown Hobbies DIY Contrast mix:
* 1 drop matte medium
* 1 drop flow-aid water mixture (1:20)
* 1 drop acrylic ink

My own:
* White-primed miniature lightly pre-inked in a dark shade.
* 1 drop acrylic ink in a small pot of paint (eg. children's craft paint). Do not mix.
* Dip the brush in the ink. As you paint, you can dip into the paint to make the layer more opaque. 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






 ced1106 wrote:
> Have any backers seen any mention of release to the rest of us?

Well, we just had an update, and all for the book we have is "Book: Files have been sent to the factory, currently under revision". No mention of a PDF for sale, so I asked in the update.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/blacklistgames/lasting-tales-a-fantasy-miniatures-game/posts/3515489

Thanks for that. Hopefully they answer favorably.

   
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From the latest update
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These make Dungeons&Lasers look ginormous!

Posters on ignore list: 35

40k Potica Edition - 40k patch with reactions, suppression and all that good stuff. Feedback thread here.

Gangs of Nu Ork - Necromunda / Gorkamorka expansion supporting all faction. Feedback thread here
   
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''Hello Backers! As we finish up September, we are pleasantly surprised to be showing off Polyurethane (PU) samples of the base box miniatures today, rather than the next round of red wax samples.

As mentioned in the last update, the normal process starts with the engineering phase, 3D printed whites (for scale), red wax, polyurethane, T1, then T2 samples. So what this means, is that the metal moulds for this set of minis has already been created! What you're seeing, is the first injection sample (using polyurethane vs the PVC process of the final product), to test out the integrity of the moulds. Let's see how the quality turned out!''
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Thanks. Pulled these from the comments?

Fulfillment updates: https://www.blacklistgamesllc.com/crowdfunding-updates

Alex Lim just commented on a post on the Facebook group 30 min ago about Contra and Buddy Cop. Here is what was posted. "Actually, quite the opposite! UFL, the fulfillment company in Hong Kong who is doing the actual air shipping through EasyShip has give us the green light last night after we approved the SOPs. Today, EasyShip set up the API in their dashboard and we did a small push of a few backers to test out fulfillment through the dashboard. Tomorrow, I have a meeting with EasyShip to see if everything went smooth with that test batch, then we'll start the full fledged air ship. So not quite funny, but because EasyShip and Blacklist Games wanted to make sure that things run smooth, I wasn't going to mention anything until tomorrow when we start the full batch. So more productive than hilarious 😉 Rest assured, you were definitely not one of our initial pushes today."

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/09/27 12:52:20


NotifyGrout's Goobertown Hobbies DIY Contrast mix:
* 1 drop matte medium
* 1 drop flow-aid water mixture (1:20)
* 1 drop acrylic ink

My own:
* White-primed miniature lightly pre-inked in a dark shade.
* 1 drop acrylic ink in a small pot of paint (eg. children's craft paint). Do not mix.
* Dip the brush in the ink. As you paint, you can dip into the paint to make the layer more opaque. 
   
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 ced1106 wrote:
Thanks. Pulled these from the comments?

All above is from the latest KS update nr 39.
   
 
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