Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Wow, that's really funny... I see it didn't scar you, and maybe had the opposite effect- motivating you to rise above!

OK, I've been holding out on you! I've got a good collection of the original (2nd Edition) meganobs. Two were decently painted and I sent the rest off to Ifalna for her expert touch. Finally got around to basing them... which is the only thing I've had to do with any of these. I may eventually add my own touches to the boss poles. The bases are resin, care of Iron Dog Studios.

Hope you like them! It's a big pic... very zoomable. The actual picture is NOT blurry. Just an unfortunate artifact of translating onto the blog page.

Great paintjob as always by Iffy on the silvers. I like the red one. seems to have translated well to the model!
I rather like those old meganobz. They look like orks in marine armor!

I'll be honest, I like the old meganobs much better than the new ones. Iffy's got the old Bad Moon boss in mega armor right now (or, well... she'll have him when he gets delivered), he'll complete the set and be my mega armored war boss. I also have the modern Gazghull... so his boxy armor and increased size will help set him off from the rest. All together they should work pretty well.



Automatically Appended Next Post:

Update: 11 PM
Well, my last projects of the night were to fix up a trukk that Thing 2 had smashed up and to effect emergency repairs on the two battle wagons that I had to hack-saw the turrets off of. I really need to repaint them, but that'll have to wait I'm afraid. At least they don't look hack-sawed any more.

Pretty productive day if I do say so myself! Little work on the kan, made the tutorial, based 7 meganobs and fixed up 3 vehicles. OH, and cooked dinner for the family as well.

"Waiter! Check please!"

The old school meganobs are awesome! AND, I think they're somewhat viable in 6th. Even better

You know, the last 4 games I've played in 5th I've fielded a small-medium sized squad of meganobs in either a BW or trukk, and each time they've proven to be invaluable. Even if they eventually got wiped (which only happened once) they caused enough chaos to really bollux up my opponent's strategy, which tipped things in my favor. If they're even a little better in 6th, I should be in good shape.

They have a 2+ save, right? AP2 is getting pretty rare these days

Yes, I've heard that. Should make them more viable. Wonder if I can do look out sir shenanigans since they're all nobs. I'm kind of guessing "no" since they're in a unit of equals... no underlings to take the bullet. (I figure with orks, look out sir involves the nob grabbing some luckless boy and using him as a meat shield.)

Great tutorial, Gits. Thanks for posting it.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And the Nobs look great, too!

6th is all about 2+. TEQ is the new MEQ with power weapons being AP3. Also, they just look freakin' awesome.

Only on the tournament scene, Graven. For the other 90%, 6th edition is about wacky, wild fun.

Briancj wrote:Only on the tournament scene, Graven. For the other 90%, 6th edition is about wacky, wild fun.

Very true; gits seems to cover both ends of that spectrum!

inmygravenimage wrote:

Briancj wrote:Only on the tournament scene, Graven. For the other 90%, 6th edition is about wacky, wild fun.

Very true; gits seems to cover both ends of that spectrum!

...Wacky.... Wild....Tournaments, eh?

I just wrote up the silliest 500 pt. list for practicing the basics of 6th with.

"Da Mek Wakkas"

HQ: Big Mek in mega armor, cybork body
EL: 3 mega nobs, 1 RL, 1 skorcha
TP: Deff Dred - 3 CCW, 1 skorcha
TP: 10 grots w/ herder (note that nearly all the grots are oilers or riggers)
Hvy: 3 Kans - 3x RL

Krunch... Krunch... Krunch....!



(Very silly... but you've got to admit it's hard to get any fluffier... and it does look so cool!)

I could split the Kans up into different squads in order to toss in a couple of grotzookas, which would save me enough points for extra armor on the deff dread... but with the new vehicle damage rules as they are I'm not sure that's worth it (just for the armor I mean).




Automatically Appended Next Post:


Well, Thing 1 and I just attempted our first little game of 6th Ed. I used the list above and he had an overlord, bunch of scarabs, 3 destroyers and a squad of warriors. Gods there are a lot of things to try and keep track of... and I'm sure I got more than half of everything wrong... but it was a start. I like how the damage allocation allows you to cycle things to the back of the unit if they're injured or damaged. Managed to keep a scarab-stripped meganob and a down-to-one-hull-point Kan in the battle that way. Wound allocation in assault is a bloody mess. I think I liked the old way better... and that's saying something because the old way sucked rocks!

I liked the mission with the primary and secondary objectives. I like movement a lot better now as well as focus fire... but in general, the game's more complicated & convoluted. I guess we knew that already.

Couple of pages late, but I am on vacation. Thank you very much for the tutorial. I think I will have to use that method with my iron warriors to repaint the stripes.

No problem Fosner, my pleasure!

Those are awesome original meganobs!

Very very nice.

Some highlight shots from our little game...

Trouble ahead...


The little "bug"gers attacked me!


The survivors get sweet revenge.

Wipe out!

Fixed!

They look great!

Hate to be "that guy" but technically they are second edition meganobz. Back in RT the best an ork could get is power armor (lol). Meganobz were a second edition invention. Back then, if I remember correctly, they had a 2 armor save + what amounted to a 4+ invuln if that failed. Pretty good stuff, with none of this slow and purposeful junk.

Ah the good old days when we were BS 3 and had plasma cannons.


And Meganobz are fantastic for the new edition. They are nearly invincible in assault. Just don't let them get shot. Although AP 2 has all but disappeared from close combat, there are still plenty of AP 2 guns mucking about.

Sadly you cannot do the wound allocation shenanigans with meganobz. Normally I think it was an unintended oversight that nobz and biker nobz were characters (because it was intended as the unit leader, not the unit itself), but then you take a look at paladins, who are most definitely still characters, and they were never intended as upgrade sergeants. Its to bad. Nothing would be more hilarious than this pack of 10 foot Orks clad in 2 tons of steel madly jumping in front of each other trying to catch bullets.

Its all about the "Narrative", so come on GW. Get with the program. Don't let opportunities like this go to waste!

Actually Goresaw, I appreciate the correction. I'll amend the post accordingly.

Ah yes... they are carrying plasma guns. I run them as combi-skorcha's now. It's one of those units I've had for a very long time but never got around to painting. Finally sent them off to Ifalna and she did a bang-up job... just in time for 6th! Love it when a plan comes together.

If I had to excuse "Look out sir" with the nobs... I'd say they weren't actually trying to save each other... they were shoving each other out of the way in order to get to the front where they could be the first ones to get stuck in! Getting hit by incoming fire would be just accidental.

"Moi Armer's better!" Clang!

"No, MINE'z betta!" Karunch

"Oi payed Lotsa bags uv Teef fer mine. It'z da BEST!" KRATHOOM!


"..."

"Oi fink 'ez gunna want a refund fer dat wun."

*chuckle* Well played sir!



Automatically Appended Next Post:


Chipping is done, on to the rust!

I can't wait to see what you use for rust.

Looking good gits! I love the nobs man! And RT too!!!!

love your orks! i am thinking of redoing my entire ork army in a more gun theme.

Time for the rust lesson!


This step takes a leap of faith... because you're going to deliberately *really* screw up your nicely painted figure in ways that can't be ignored or overlooked. Once you're ready to get past that... you're on your way!


Supplies: You'll need a few supplies to do rust the way I do. First, 2 or 3 rusty shades of paint. The darker, browner shades are for older rust, the lighter, orange colors for newer rust. You could go all the way up to blazing orange I suppose... I just usually stop at vermin brown. Also you'll need some open-cell foam or sponge. I usually cut up the surface a bit in order to make it a bit irregular. I also take one a taper it down to a smaller surface so I can get into those hard-to-reach places.


Start: Here's our Kan arm. Painting and chipping all done, I have the bolts washed in sepia to look a bit rusty (that doesn't need a tutorial). Sorry for the blurry pic, the rest are better.


Step #1: Dab a sponge in your darkest color and blot on a paper towel until most is off... blot hard once or twice because there will be a lot of paint hiding in the inner parts of the sponge that can come out at very inopportune moments if you dab too hard on the figure. This is basically practice for what you'll be doing on your figure. Dab until the "solid" footprint it leaves breaks up. You get lighter rust by dabbing the sponge lightly on the figure, heavier rust by pushing harder and releasing more of the paint inside the sponge. Be very careful! you can easily drop a "block" of rust on your figure if you push too hard... Practice makes perfect.

Once the sponge is shedding the right amount of paint, begin to dab your figure. Rather than just covering the whole thing... I try to think about where this rust might form naturally... though this is a kind of "wearing with age" rust as opposed to the stuff around the bolts say where water is collecting and causing rust. I do like to concentrate it in areas that I think will see wear and damage... places like edges and such. A good speckling across a large plate or surface can really make for an interesting dynamic, as well as working the edges of a hatch where repeated banging would chip the paint and expose the metal beneath.

As with the chipping... adding rust is a great way of covering mistakes, distracting from the visible edges of a decal or a poor assembly job, or adding interest to an otherwise uninteresting surface.


Step #2: As above with the next lightest paint. I usually try to stick in the areas that have already gotten the dark rust... this being slightly less old & having a lighter color. I don't get worked up over exact coverage or quantity here... all you're really trying to do is break of the visual "cleanliness" of the figure with the rust spots to show wear... and using multiple shades breaks up the rust so that it looks more confused, i.e. more natural.


Step #3: Finally you hit it with your lightest color. With the light color, I don't necessarily limit myself to just the areas that have gotten the darkest rust. This is the new stuff... it could form anywhere. Edges especially are good choices... as well as anywhere that's looking a bit too clean.


Step #4: Additionally... you can move your shades into the orange range if you'd like. After looking at the pics here I decided that some of the areas of heavy rust needed a little pop... so I mixed 50/50 vermin brown and blaze orange and used that very sparingly on the heaviest rust patches and some of the exposed edges and corners. It did the trick in my opinion.



And that's it... rust is done!



As a special bonus... let's talk about adding soot. Soot is a great thing to put around gun barrels, smoke stacks, etc to show the effects of flame or smoke. To do soot, I simply take some black weathering powder and mix it with acrylic air brush medium until is flows but is thick. The nice thing about using the air brushing medium is that it's its own sealer, so no special sealing step is required... *and* you use it just like any paint. Then I just paint it where I need it. It will dry quickly and is dead-flat black... making it perfect for other applications to, like painting the inside of gun barrels so there is no shine (I used it on the inside of the grotzooka barrel for example). Little touches can make all the difference. If you want a less than solid layer... just use it to do a dry-brush effect, which will make a nice transition from those areas you've sooted to those you haven't. I've used it here right under the yellow part of the legs in order to accentuate those parts of the pistons that probably have fresh oil and would be darker by comparison. A million-and-one uses as they say!

Love the tut gits!!!! Very good! I may have to try that tut on my orks!!!! Btw had an update on my blog...