Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Gits, thats an awesome tut!

It never crossed my mind to use a micron for lining like that, man that is so clever and sp much better than lining in with a paintbrush, I will totally steal and incorporate your skills!

Thank you everyone. Looking at all those close-up I see how sloppy my painting really was. *shudder* However... the end results are still pretty good and making it neater (which anyone can do) will just make the checkerboard look that much better. I was having *major* brush issues when I was making this, so I guess I'll be happy that it turned out as good as it did.

With a bit of luck I might have a 5-day weekend coming up. Once I finish this kan (hopefully by Wed) I'll embark on a major painting project. If you look back through my various blogs, you'll notice there's always a major project around this time of year... which will give you a clue. However I won't be showing pictures of the project until much later in the month (which I guess is another clue).

I will be making some chipping and weathering mini-tutorials with the kan... but they won't be as comprehensive as those same techniques when applied to the grot tanks... because the tanks are supposedly make of scrap (and look like it) while these Kans do not have the appearance of scrap. Thus my approach (especially when it comes to chipping) will be quite different. We'll see what I can come up with though. Keep in mind, there's nothing unique about my chipping or weathering... they're largely pulled off existing tutorials that are out there with some minor modifications.

@Iffy: Steal away! You can practice on the mini's I just sent you!

Thing 1 or Thing 2's birthday is coming up is it not?

Indeed. Good guess!

I went sifting through this blog and the Doom Eagle blog... and I couldn't find the pictures of the big 40k party you had for Thing 1 in which you made a bunch of objective markers for the kids.

But I'm glad I guessed right.

Again, I'm thinking it's Thing 1's birthday...

Yep, that's correct again! I only had the pics up for a short while. I try (in general) to keep my web life and my personal life separated. So I don't use real names for the kids, didn't leave the pic up for more than a couple of days so the people who helped could see the kids having fun with their contributions, etc.

I snagged some second-hand items for Thing 1 at a decent price a while ago. They need to be repainted but otherwise should be very welcome in his army and give him some serious capability he doesn't have at the moment. Their utility seems to have held out just fine in the change over to 6th, which is a relief. That's all I'll say for now as I don't want to give too much away. But it should be another nice change-of-pace... though I am kind of in "grot-mode" at the moment.

I really want to build my Grot Land Battleship.

Well, I do have a Forge World "Grot Megatank" that's on the docket for some time this summer. Unfortunately, it doesn't really proxy as anything... so the rewards for painting it are small as no one really plays with IA rules around here. I suppose now that vehicles can move and shoot, I could use it as some kind of shoot battle wagon... still, not a good proxy. I was kind of hoping 6th would officially allow at least some IA units into the main game... guess not though.


Automatically Appended Next Post:


Should have responded to this earlier...

shasolenzabi wrote:Hey Gitsplitta, normally I shy away from yellow, but you did great work with it for your Boyz! Now if you look on my thread, I have a monster of a creashun from me Meks! Bomma dat'll make ya jaw drop!

Which thread? You have 22. I assume you mean this one? "Been Seeking out oddball tanks-Big Bomma more construction done!". It's 144 pages... even 51 filtered, can you point me to a page so I can check out what you're referring to? Thanks!

If you want to see my real yellow, check out my Mantis Warrior blog, the sternguard and veteran units there get my full yellow work-up. Go to the OP and there are links to P&M summaries so you can find things quickly. My ork yellow is generally golden yellow with a sepia wash, then a light water wash over the highest surfaces to remove the excess brown. Simple, but effective for a good, earthy, orky yellow.

Which thread? You have 22. I assume you mean this one? "Been Seeking out oddball tanks-Big Bomma more construction done!". It's 144 pages... even 51 filtered, can you point me to a page so I can check out what you're referring to? Thanks!

Up page 112-114 or so will get you to the Big Bomma, a few pages before them is the Dakka-MiG

I will look at the Mantis Warriors and see what kind of yellow you have done!

Tonight's offering: I had pics for a nice chipping tutorial based on the guns but the dang camera failed to process the first two pictures in each series! Have to try again tomorrow. In any case, here's the result... RL & GZ are chipped, also got some work done on the base.

That looks bloody fantastic Gits!!

Glad you like it Vit.... twice even!!

Well actually no, thats another bug ive been noticing on dakka. Every time i double post i go back and edit one. Then for some reason Dakka removes the ohter post and you just end up with a post saying 'double post' or something.

I left the double post, and atm it appears one of the posts has disappeared.

Son of a gun.... I'll have to remember that.

Nice chip work! Pretty much different than how I did it on the Dakka-MiG. I used the Tinbtz, then the metallic color.(silvery)

I use a light metal first (chainmail), then mix in black until I have a dark metallic & put it in the deepest recesses to accentuate them. They'll fade a bit once the rest of the weathering is done, which just makes them look more convincing.

Gitsplitta wrote:Son of a gun.... I'll have to remember that.

I'll take that to mean that its not just my computer showing no double post then?

That looks fantastic, Gits. The chipping really adds a lot of character to the model.

Gitsplitta wrote:I use a light metal first (chainmail), then mix in black until I have a dark metallic & put it in the deepest recesses to accentuate them. They'll fade a bit once the rest of the weathering is done, which just makes them look more convincing.

So, you're putting down a "light" metallic then a darker "highlight" on top of that? In a couple of pictures it looks like white first and then mettallic.

Really excellent job on that weathering mate, and great tip on overlay technique.

Thanks guys! I'll have a proper tut for you this evening.

It is brainless though, but there's a bit of subtlety in the strategy that I think makes the difference in the final product.

Cool!

Got more pics for you to look over btww, that bomma is taking on a life of it's own I tell ya!

I'm subscribed now shaso, so I'll see it! No worries.

Gitsplitta wrote:I'm subscribed now shaso, so I'll see it! No worries.

Okeedokee. I do lurk around lot, and it even added the tail sections on, LOL! Gawd I need to go sleep!

Niiiice work Gits! Im loving how Boss Kan is turning out. Giving me ideas how to paint my own orks!
Looking forward to the chipping Tut!

man, that Kan looks Killa. Love the checkers!

Yes I'm looking forward to the TUT too looks real good so fa.

OK, finally got the right pics for the chipping tutorial.


Please note that there are a lot of good chipping and weathering tutorials already out there. I don't claim that this method is unique or the best... but it's just a description of how I go about it.


So... conceptually, you want to take a look at the figure and try and map out in your mind where the ware and tear is going to be. Will the edges be worn? Has paint been rubbed off from mechanical movements? Will there be areas where the metal has actually been chipped off at the edge from impacts or cuts? Is there gun fire damage? Is it rusty or muddy? If so, where do all these varying effects go? Where, and how... is the damage occurring? For this Kan arm, I'll have most of the damage on the forward part of the arm and inside the CCW.

Now, the entire "distressing" process from start to finish can be rather involved and lengthy... so rather than tackling the whole thing in one go, I thought I'd approach it in sizable bits. While the Kan is a good subject for the tutorial... it's not the best as there's not much mud involved... but it'll have to do. Perhaps some day I'll do a grot tank version of the tutorial which will be a no-holes-barred assault on a decent paint job.

Which brings me to another point. Distressing is NOT for the faint of heart. Your going to take a perfectly decently painted figure and really screw it up. If you can't handle that emotionally... don't start. I don't distress my marine vehicles very much at all. Just won't risk it. Gretchin on the other hand don't look right without a lot of abuse, so it's easier for me to throw myself into it.

With that in mind... let's begin.


Step #1: Take a lighter color of your base metal (in this case I'm choosing chainmail for boltgun metal) and edge the plates that you thing might have had the paint scraped off. Forward edges, near ground edges, "action" edges for things like the CCW. I leave occasional blank spaces so that not every ege is uniformly done. This "planned randomness" is very important in delivering a result that is more realistic, at least in my opinion. If you don't know how to edge... now is a good time to learn. Take a fine brush, dilute your paint a bit so it flows smoothly. Put the paint on your brush and *very briefly* tap it on a paper towel to remove the excess that is like to blob on your figure. Then take the *side* of the brush and run it lightly along the edge that you're trying to paint. That's it. No boggle.




Step #2: At irregular intervals, take that same light metallic paint and make little V and irregular shaped inclusions into the paint job from the edge. I nearly always limit these to areas that have already been edged. Again, focus on those areas that would take the heaviest wear, or (conversely) areas that need a little visual interest on your figure. Or areas where you didn't quite paint it up to snuff, had an unsightly collection of wash, etc. In other words, you can use this opportunity to cover your mistakes! Don't go overboard unless you really what things to look beaten up badly. I see the V-shapes as actual chunks taken out of the metal... other areas (like next to an arm joint) are where the paint has just been rubbed away by the action of the arm moving. You can also draw little dings here and there, circular areas to represent bullet impacts or streaks to represent scrapes. Remember that the dings on the edges are three dimensional and may be represented in both planes that make up the corner!




Step #3: Mix some of your metal highlight color with normal black paint until you get a dark metallic. Pretty dark is OK here, you want significant contrast between the dark and the light. Then on your biggest scrapes, but some of the dark mix inside of the area to represent shadow or depth in the ding.




Step #4: Finally, take a look at the piece and see if there are areas you'd like to add a bit of rusty or oily patina to. I just use a bit of black or sepia wash to accomplish this. Be very careful as you do this as even the sepia will greatly de-emphasize the dings and will muddle the difference between the light and dark shades. Just look at the older dings that may have been made once but generally are in areas that don't see much action. I put the black wash in the areas around the arm joints and at the base of the hydrolics to represent oil left on the metal rods.





So, here's where we stand at the moment. I anticipate that the legs and lower Kan will have a fair amount of scratching and wear. The body.... probably mostly battle damage. Have to think about that. Keep in mind the distressing is only the first step in the process. Still more to do once that's done. OH, and making some progress on the base too.

Fantastic tutorial!

Great work Gits, this is going to help out a lot of folks, including myself.

You make it sound so easy, Gits!

It is easy. I'm a biologist, not an artist. As a matter of fact, my grade school art teacher famously wrote in my yearbook..

"Art", is the only thing you have in common with my class!

If I can find that yearbook I'll scan that in and post it... he even drew a little cartoon version of me to go with it. Anyway, if I can do it... anyone can do it.