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I'm positive on the polarity point, CK - I was aiming more for sizes and depths, tbh, but I appreciate my question wasn't clear on that

Tom and I worked out the white by PM... it's just simpler that way. I also started working on that cool display board that Cam made me. Still lots to paint on it and because it's terrain it's low-stress... and a nice display board gets you extra points in painting competitions don't 'cha know.

Magnets...
Well, my advice. You want to cram as much high-powered magnet into your space as you can. The magnet should hold *tight* and should not allow what it's holding to spin by it's own weight... otherwise everything droops down and generally looks like a sad panda rather than a mighty war machine. Also things tend to get lost if your magnets aren't powerful enough. I've also started favoring long pins over magnets in many cases. I've also occasionally used two magnets... one large one to do the holding, and a smaller one to act as a "lock" to keep the magnetized object from spinning too freely.

Polarity is easily solved. Mount one magnet, drop the second magnet on top of it. Put a drop of paint on the exposed side of the second magnet. Then just make sure when you mount the second magnet that you can't see the paint dot.

Rare Earth Magnet, get a few diff diameters... But Rare Earth and NOTHING but!

Discussion over pm, how are we supposed to make snide comments on that?!

I believe in you WM lol

Was hoping to follow that white discussion, no worries, pics of the results will do.

As to magnets, my 2 cents..


Sorry Gits, you get a lot more visitors than me, hope it is good advise, by all means ignore me.

I love this go back between you and tom. its great to see the advice come to fruition here GIts! The models certainly look great and youre lucky to have him pulling your coat tails!

Re: magnets...because ill be building some big models soon, cam, do you normally use circular magnets for joints? are they strong enough to hold or does the joint spin 360 freely because its a circle?.
....you know what i mean? :/

Basically it was a matter of evaluating which color I was getting at out of more or less available ranges. It had to be a chromatic grey, chromatic grey means something that is more or less just on the edge of being true grey and another color. (That is not the precise definition, chromatic grey is any greyish color that is not true, monotone grey with no temperature bias, the tint can be quite minor, it doesn't have to be on the edge of being a color. Just a hint of it, as opposed to having to be an 'ish', greyish blue, reddish grey, orangeish grey etc).

For gitsy's purposes, the right color needs to be dark enough, and beige enough to offset the purple range he uses, and the trick is to find the right color that is beigeish in it's bias, not ochre/yellow.

Something in a deck-tan family is where we were headed, that color would then be highlighted with near white in the same bone/grey family, and edged with white.

In truth I expected a long back-and-forth which is why I took it to PM, but it was only one photo sent. I did some concocting based on Tom's comments on the pic you all saw of the variations on that sicaran bit and sent him the following photo.



Tom replied that I was close (bottom color), but perhaps the best option was somewhere in the middle. So I blended that direction a bit. Haven't taken a picture of the result, but you'll see it soon enough.

Gotta say it's cool to see different painters of different levels talking this stuff out. Too often replies offer little criticism in fear of offending the painter. Gits and Tom are the perfect storm, because Gits won't get offended no matter what Tom says.

Oh, rest assured, I can offend him lol, it's kinda a special talent of mine lol, he threatened to shoot me one time!

I used to love Bleached bone, but it had too much yellow for what you need, but Ushanti Bone, I find a more "grey" bone colour, just not quite dark enough for where this was going, looking at the swabs, I would call that colour mushroom, or taupe. Game colour Heavy Brown, comes close, or am I still too creamy?

Taupe is the correct color Cam spot on, unfortunately no company calls it that, they say dragon-nuts grey or some such lol... but yes, a taupe is correct.

I am no longer super familiar with specific paint lines, half the time I just mix on the pallette from primaries, secondaries and black and white these days...

 MajorTom11 wrote:
Oh, rest assured, I can offend him lol, it's kinda a special talent of mine lol, he threatened to shoot me one time!

In my own defense, I did offer to shoot myself in the face too. Not a suicide/murder thing... just a "one of has to go, I don't care which" thing...

I feel like the wrong person is Canadian in this. My stereotypes are all blown to hell.

I'd just like to show that I am paying attention by agreeing with the direction of the white. Although I would keep it very desaturated on the brown front.

I find that I can't really join in in conversation that involve your weird paint names.
Due to the paints I use and the way I mix them by eye, all I can say is more grey / brown / green / etc.
I can't even express the colours in my own paint system's name/numbers.

I like to paint stuff Dur Dur...Try to avoid shooting people in the face in the meantime

I'm positive on the polarity point, CK - I was aiming more for sizes and depths, tbh, but I appreciate my question wasn't clear on that

Not quite yet. You'll be positive after you've glued one wrong . I always use neodymium (= rare earth) magnets, most commonly 3*1 mm, 3*2 mm and 5*1 mm. For the rest I'll refer to Camkhieri

I go with round mostly because it is easier to make holes for them. I tend to "angle" things so the weight does not make too much of a problem. One important thing is getting surface contact between the magnets. Sometimes it is not so important. Especially if you are using the magnets to help with painting. And there are times you can use a metal plate in place of one of the magnets. You need to be careful because you can over do it. The magnetic field around some of my pieces stops time!

In the end they are a good little tool. But a little thought and you can do better with styrene or a few pins. Back in the day when I actually played, probably about 4th, I was swapping out kit with a piece of copper wire and some blutak, worked perfectly, looked ok with just a bit of care. Magnets are fun. And I so want to play with the whole floating objects thing, but to me the best use is to aid painting when building models. Being able to take the top off some tank is really great and easily achieved with magnets.

Now enough waffle from me, I am certainly no expert. Want to see some Taupe-art!

Variety of rounds, exactly as Cam said, you just find the right sized drill bit then you can practically dry mount them in place, no fuss no muss. You basically want as big as you can get and still fit into the pieces to be magnetized, hence why a variety of sizes is handy, never know when you may need bigger or smaller working on a new piece.

Made some progress. White is done... unless I decide to add more. Just blocking out the steel now. Long way to go on this yet. Note that the color here is not right, but it's as close as I could get it. My phone's color processor just cant handle this and turns the purple into red & I have a heck of a time trying to bring it back.

Sicaran is looking good, I have seen your EC in person and know that it is a much richer purple than what it shows here. The white looks much better and I may use the same technique on my BA sicaran.

White looks good man, vastly better interaction now, it sits right. That was effort well spent bud, congrats on levelling up

@Yorkright: Thanks my friend... for some reason my phone especially can't handle purple. It's always screwed up.

@Tom: Thank you as well for your guidance and most importantly your patience. You should see me go on our local group's Facebook page... I'm Mr. Color Wheel & Mr. contrast now. But you're right, it looks a lot better, I just need to improve my technique for getting to this point. Doing the white was a real struggle.

White is one of the toughest to do, especially in the kind of scenario you are working on. Certainly a lot easier if you are just painting the entire model white, but to mask of significant areas, and then ensure proper interaction with the other dominant color, it's tough. But you did it

Damn nice, thats 'eavy metal level painting right there! I still feel the recessed white part could do with a mural, but it would almost be a shame to mess up that white

Very well done white you got there, Gits! Plays very nicely against that sweet purple.

Looking very good so far Git's, that white looks great.

 Anpu-adom wrote:
I love tagging along for this discussion, even though it goes way above my head.
Keep up the good work, Gits.

I think you jest.
The illustrated pictures of a suggested change and then the following discussion of colours to use is awesome.
Airbrush is a strange thought process of how one layer interacts with another.

All you have to do is spray a combo of colours and the wires in your head start crossing and you then see things differently.
I was painting a tank one day and thought: "why not spray first with a scorched brown (dark brown) then put on the olive?"
Best looking two colour only paint job I had seen on a surface after painting only with hairy brush for years.

Any discussion about white is always worth tuning into: How to avoid the chalky "liquid paper" look crops up more than anyone would like.

Very positive and smart crew here, possibly excluding Drax, but not to his face.

Now for something totally amazing...


I got a package the other day. It was an amazing box... and inside the amazing box was something even more amazing... A custom, scratch-built Gorkanaut, built and painted by one Camkierhi. This was a gift the generosity of which I can't even begin to process. But damn, I am happy to have it. Thanks Cam.

p.s. You'll note that voting is turned off with these. This is Cam's work... it belongs in HIS gallery where people can vote and comment where he'll see them. I'm in the process of working that out right now.



I can't begin to show you all the cool stuff on this model with still pics. Everything... and I do mean everything... is magnetized so it breaks down for easy storage. There are two separate compartments inside big enough to hold orks. It's simply amazing.


Apon receiving this generous gift, Boss Gitsplitta was so moved that he immediately organized a bash be held in it's honor and invited all of his meks, tin boyz and other such orks as he saw fit, including Big Mek Buzzgob and the ranking (surviving) boss of his meganobz. As is typical with such events... everyone posed for a group photo before they all were too falling-down drunk to stand.



Boss Gitsplitta was heard to say...
"Boss Kam's me mate! E' done built dis 'ere amazin' Gorkanaut n' sent it wif a krew to be a part o' me waaagh. E's brilliant e is! Kant bye friends like dat... not 'nough teef in da world fur dat."
"OY you gits, lets giv a Waaagh fur Boss Kam!"
... and a roar went up from the assembled...
WAAAAAAAGH fur Boss Kam!

Watched the build on Cam's page... truly inspiring. I have a good feeling about Orks in 8th... particularly Mek-centered armies.