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In presented orderanks

Death Ray Designs is the terrain company that you and Thing 1 were playing on.

Thanks for the game. It was challenging. You have your army down.

Nice job on the basing. New additions for your Admech will only make your higher point list better.

Something Orky? Been awhile, do remember how to paint in the orky fashion?

Thanks SL!

@Yorkright: Well, we'll find out. Also going to challenge myself to add to my Halloween/Chaos army next month.

Nice work Gits. Those 3rd party heads improve the big bots massively!

@Regnak: Agreed. I've got two more bots and two more interesting 3rd party heads I picked up. I'll paint these last two myself... can't let Nerdfest have all the fun after all.

 Gitsplitta wrote:
@Regnak: Agreed. I've got two more bots and two more interesting 3rd party heads I picked up. I'll paint these last two myself... can't let Nerdfest have all the fun after all.

Well he is going on a vacation and getting married. So he is having "Fun" ....at least until the ring is on .

Two more heads like these? Or from another manufacturer?

Pretty sure I have both.... that is IF I can find them in the mess that is my studio.

Dammit! why can't I have all the fun?

First of two. Going to be a fun project!

Yeah, I'm always pleased to see a Gitsplitta base.

What are the little flower bunches again? (I'm sure it's been asked, I'll be sure to make a note of it this time)

Edit: Oo, hello ^ that looks cool.

Are those lubbers going to get shoulder mounted?

At last, now I am really looking forward to this.

Here come the checks... this is going to orksome.

Oh Yeah!

No, serious. Like, the Kool-aid man, "Oh, Yeah!" busting through the wall. You should paint him red.

FIRST OF TWO!?!?!?! Super cool!

Second build is almost done. Just the big gun left to do. I must admit to being pretty excited about these. They've been waiting a long time to get built and painted.

I've been using large pins to reinforce joints after they've been glued together. It's worked out really well so far and I think it'll make the models far less fiddly. I've also put them on flying bases (even though the models don't actually have an official base) which should make them much more stable less prone to breakage.

Thing 1 and I had a fantastic game last night in our ongoing Necron vs. AdMech campaign that he's created. Final score was 24-21 with both armies point values cut in half by the time the game ended (T7). A credit to his scenario designing skills that we were so close. Hopefully will have battle reports of the first two games for you shortly.

The best part of these models from my perspective is that the actual body is just a killa kan... so fluffily they'll fit in nicely with my grot-themed armies.

Really Excited to see you get to work on something big Gits!

Gork & Mork, ready for paint.

Glorkious!

Tweedle-dee and Tweedle-dum!

These should be good...

The godz iz gonna be pleased...

So as not to leave anything out... this was Thing 2's 40k birthday present. (he'll be painting this one himself)



I should have done a pinning tutorial while I was building it. Some of you (I'm looking at you Nerdy)... need some proper trainin' on pinning theory and techniques.

Meh! pinning...... o.k yes, maybe a little advice would help, I've just whacked them in where they need to go to glue solidly in the past.

Well, OK... since I complained about it... my thoughts on pinning.

1) If done properly with long enough pins, pins can replace magnets for interchangeable parts... however, that's not really what I'm going to address at this point.

2) Pins, if done correctly, can make a huge difference in stabilizing glued joints, especially those that carry load. There are a couple of things you need to keep in mind though.
- A good pinning job provides a considerable about of structural reinforcement through multiple pieces of a model, like rebar used in concrete. It holds things together when they may otherwise slip, sheer or crack apart.
- Tiny pins are only good for pinning tiny things (like bits of a human sized model). Anything bigger than this needs a larger diameter pin, so use your paperclips for holding papers and go out and buy some brass rod at your local hobby or hardware store.
- Short pins are only useful as registration marks (i.e. helping things to line up). You're main pins (structural support) need to be as long as you can get away with. As such, they vastly increase the surface area of the pin in contact with the model, making it stronger. Also vastly increases the surface area of the glue adhering the pin to the model with the same end result.


Unfortunately I'm not at home so I can't provide pictures at the moment, but we can use the nid model above as an example. The biggest load-bearing parts of that model are the knee joints below the plates. The knee was separated into two different model bits (thigh & lower leg). What I did was to glue the two pieces together and let dry overnight so the join was as strong as it could be, then I drilled two holes from the bottom of the knee up into the thigh... each hole was between 1/2 to 3/4" long. Pin size was substantial... 1/16" in diameter. I then put glue on the end of the pin and inserted it into the hole... gave it a bit to set, then with a flush-clipper clipped off the rest of the brass rod. Finally I gently filed off the excess of the rod sticking out of the hole until it matched the curve of the resin leg part. The scythed arms got the same treatment, laying a single pin from the outside of the shoulder deep into the body of the model. Whether I use two pins or one depends on how likely the part is to want to twist (needing two pins to hold it firm) or how much load I'm trying to support.

If you look at the megadreads... both the legs and arms are pinned to the body in this way (post gluing). The arm pins actually travel through 3 or 4 different model parts in order to support the whole structure. In that case, I'd pre-measure the pin once the hole was drilled, clip it to size & then push it in with a combination of my fingers & a tweezer. The pins are invisible and they'll add a lot of strength to those joints.

You know this may sound a bit stupid, but I hadn't considered adding a pin after the joint has been glued together. That is absolute genius. Definitely will be using that idea in the future.

That is brilliant!
I pinned the metal Necron Spyder's legs through the front. It ended up being over an inch to get through all that pewter with a single rod, and would have been a lot easier had it already been glued.

thanks guys, glad I could help. Of course I do normal pinning as well (drilling holes into both parts from inside the joint, but there are a surprising number of situations where the above method just works better.


Unfortunately my folks are in for the long weekend, so I don't think I'll get to do any painting until sometime next week. I CANT WAIT!!

to the pinning advice. Can't say more.

If you've ever had a problem with lining up a pre-pinned bit with a pre-drilled hole, pinning after attaching the bits makes it a non-issue.

Sorry for the lack of progress on da orkses... prolonged visit by the parents. Dad's 91 so I gotta take advantage of whatever time I have with him (though he's in pretty decent shape for an old fart). I plan on starting the painting tonight. Did fall things this weekend... pumpkin patch, grilled brats, watched lots of football (Way to go IA State, & Wiscsonsin! Bears... not so much.) Hopefully progress to show you tonight, though I don't think it'll be very exciting progress... still... needs to be done.

Bears fan? OMG I thought we were friends.