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I looted that from someone else Skalk, but i really appreciate your props. It was also a bit of a pain in the butt.

Holy gak, tell me how you bulked up the oblits in detail please!

 sennacherib wrote:
I looted that from someone else Skalk, but i really appreciate your props. It was also a bit of a pain in the butt.

Regardless, I saw it on your thread and it's very well done. You have excellent GS skills and .... and hmm... I just had an idea that would make it even MORE difficult! If yours isn't done yet, consider using a small hole punch for glass lenses. I am totally going to try that.

I have way too much on my plate. I need to start making a list of project ideas.

@ Skalk. Here is a link to that guys stuff that i sort of emulated for the mask that I have on my Oblit. He does really good work. Addressing your feelings about making a glass inlay for the mask. If you shop around or look in your stationary drawer there should be a automatic pencil available to you with a metal barrel that the lead slides out of. Obviously a larger diameter lead will have a larger barrel. This is a great tool for making a perfectly round indentation on the surface of the mask to represent a lens. I have used this same technique with a lot of my minis. The more metal tools you have to do GS with the better since some patterns are easier to replicate if all you have to do is press a set sized implement against the epoxy. I know what you mean about the projects stacking up. I am writting a bullfrog erradication protocol for a former employer of mine. Its been almost done for 3 months. I also have the list of stuff that i have posted, other stuff i didnt post and a host of ebay that needs doing. Grunt.
http://www.theindependentcharacters.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4455&sid=fa5c2254321d600b891dd64fce1a5b50

@Know No Pear ~ Hey man. Tell you what. You are the second person to ask for a detailed explanation of how i have done some of my GS work recently so i will do the best that I can to detail the next mini that i post. You will need a dremmel tool to make the larger shoulder pads, lots of GS and a small supply of plasticard. I am using some pretty basic techniques to bulk the legs up and the torso. Glad you liked the work. The next one is going to be an amalgamation of two different GS requests, that way i can kill two grox with one bolter. Thanks for stopping by. I will try...no promises... to have some pics up this coming monday.

BTW. I feel the personal need to celebrate my 1500th post here on dakka with a fat BOOSH!

@ Skalk. This image of my demon prince shows admirably the effect that the tip of a Automatic pencil has. Find the right diameter and gas mask should be no issue. Also. Should finding the right diameter be difficult, try looking for any tube that will work. The sheath on a plastic coated paperclip or insulation from a wire. If you can slide it down, these would both offer a means to create the efffect that you desire. Hope this helps.

@ Know No Pear ~ I figure a short verbal explanation to presage my later tutorial is in order.
The torso are widened front to back by inserting a plasticard slip between the front and the back peice of the torso. This slip i glue in place to hold the two torso halves about 2mm farther apart. GS fills the crack that was formed in this process. This is partially visable in some of my pics on the preceeding page.
The Waiste of the torso will now sit slightly up off of the waist of the legs by a similar distance provided the slip that you inserted into the torso hangs down slightly. I stuffed a wad of GS into newly widened Torso/waiste and the glued it on top of the legs. Simply GS around the outside to create a new (2mm) armor plate that extends the torso up off the legs.
With the shoulder pads i used a technique looted from Sons Of Orar here on dakka. His stuff is simply amazing.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/274891.page
The plasticard I used here is the thickest I have really used. Probably 2mm. This builds up the shoulder pads considerably. Then under the shoulder pads i glue regulare space marine pauldrons. These I glue so that the bottom of the pauldron, which the marine arm would be protruding from normally, is glued to the cresent on the side of the terminator torso which the arm ordinarily attaches too. This creates an even broader shoulderspan for the oblit.
Legs are simply bulked up by GS'ing in the gaps in the thighs and building up the calfs of the model. I also built up the feet so that the model stands about 1.5mm taller than he would without these added on lifts. Thats about all i did. Stay tuned for pics.

 sennacherib wrote:
@ Skalk. This image of my demon prince shows admirably the effect that the tip of a Automatic pencil has. Find the right diameter and gas mask should be no issue. Also. Should finding the right diameter be difficult, try looking for any tube that will work. The sheath on a plastic coated paperclip or insulation from a wire. If you can slide it down, these would both offer a means to create the efffect that you desire. Hope this helps.

@ Know No Pear ~ I figure a short verbal explanation to presage my later tutorial is in order.
The torso are widened front to back by inserting a plasticard slip between the front and the back peice of the torso. This slip i glue in place to hold the two torso halves about 2mm farther apart. GS fills the crack that was formed in this process. This is partially visable in some of my pics on the preceeding page.
The Waiste of the torso will now sit slightly up off of the waist of the legs by a similar distance provided the slip that you inserted into the torso hangs down slightly. I stuffed a wad of GS into newly widened Torso/waiste and the glued it on top of the legs. Simply GS around the outside to create a new (2mm) armor plate that extends the torso up off the legs.
With the shoulder pads i used a technique looted from Sons Of Orar here on dakka. His stuff is simply amazing.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/274891.page
The plasticard I used here is the thickest I have really used. Probably 2mm. This builds up the shoulder pads considerably. Then under the shoulder pads i glue regulare space marine pauldrons. These I glue so that the bottom of the pauldron, which the marine arm would be protruding from normally, is glued to the cresent on the side of the terminator torso which the arm ordinarily attaches too. This creates an even broader shoulderspan for the oblit.
Legs are simply bulked up by GS'ing in the gaps in the thighs and building up the calfs of the model. I also built up the feet so that the model stands about 1.5mm taller than he would without these added on lifts. Thats about all i did. Stay tuned for pics.

Aha! Thanks for the explanation! I've been playing around with grey stuff(not green stuff), and since I've got no access to plasticard[not even sure where to find it in my local art shops], I've just been using the grey stuff as a substitute for everything. I've been trying to bulk up a terminator into a terminator lord with a multitude of tutorials, including yours. Thanks a lot!

@ Know No Pear ~ I didnt have time this weekend to finish working on stuff for the tutorial for you. Work and stuff got in the way. However, You dont have to use plasticard but that would be the easiest to work with and has known properties when interacting with glue and paints etc.

It's alright! There's no rush,
I'll try to look for plasticard again soon. Is it just plastic that feels like credit cards etc? or is it harder?

Similar texture to a credit card. Singapore should have access to plasticard. Hows the gaming over there. do you have a part in a local games group. If so ask them. they might know a retailer that carries that kind of stuff. either that or order a sampler of it from a retailer. also, you can just use sprue and shave it down to get the right thickness to act as a spacer for the chest plate. an average sprue is about twice as thick as the bits that i use for the chest expansion bit. YOU will need some for the pauldrons though.

I do visit a FLGS once in a while, to watch people play and to learn, as well as to talk to people. I have a couple of friends that play, but I haven't played any games myself(except a tutorial game). I'm currently working on a small army, together with a couple of friends each beginning with me.

And yeah, I expanded the torso using some sprue as a stand-in instead, and then filled the gaps with grey-stuff. It worked brilliantly!

Haven't got around to searching yet. I'll check out the art store(s) soon, hopefully I find it.

Can you post some shots on your profile for me to check out so that I can give you feedback. I would also like to know more about this grey stuff that you are talking about.

This is the grey stuff I was talking about. I get it at a somewhat cheaper price at my FLGS. I haven't tried green stuff yet, even though they have it in stock.

As for pictures, I don't have access to a camera right now(or rather I can't upload it), I'll be back with pictures later!

Significant different between Green and Gray is that Gray cures faster and is much harder when fully dried. If you are using Gray you want to make 100% sure that you are ready to go because the time frame for making corrections / changing your mind is noticeably shorter. It is great stuff for doing 'filler' jobs like arms into shoulder pads, repairing cracks in vehicle hulls, etc. Not so much (IMO) for sculpting.

Hmmm. Thanks for the heads up Skalk, Know No Pear.

I have long wondered about the usage of said products. I have seen the brown stuff as well. What interests me most really is the shorter curing time and the fact that it will withstand up to 4 vulcanizations. Interesting. It would be useful for stuff like pressmolds and work on stuff like composite figures where i used both sculpy and this grey stuff in concert with each other. Some of my bigger models i make using a composite of GS and Sculpy. Lots of peeps grumble that sculpy is not good to sculpt with, but i find it perfect for constructing the armatures and the basics of larger figures such as the two greater demons that I have in my army.

Today i am going to get fully wound up on coffee and really tackle that fortress of redemption conversion that I have been struggling with. I need a better cutting tool so i am gonna buy some new bitz for my dremmel tool and get busy. Keep you all posted.

So I spent four hours yesterday with earplugs in, Safety gogglesat times i had a wrap around my face, and my dremmel tool firing. At times there was hot, semi molten bitz of plastic spraying me in the face and when all was said and done it was everywhere. Bits were even stuck to the wall. Needless to say i can only imagine what my neighbor thinks i was doing, thought they probably hate me right now.
I finished the inlays for the faces of all four sides of the tower. Parts of it were touch and go because the tower is not a regular shape. Today, when i have time i am going to use some plummers putty to adhere the inlays to the face of the tower. This should both provide stability and support to the overall structure. Essential since i am going to be drilling through the tower in places to add spikes, chains and other do-dads.
The hardest part will likely be GSing the demon faces into the hoods of the idols on the sides. I expect that will take me about another 8 or 10 hours.
Questions and comments appreciated.

something that could save you some time man is making the demon faces outside and making molds so that they are consistant so that you do not have to work so hard.

Well done! man i havent been here long enough. You should also join the hero comp if your looking for something to do. Your a busy bee! and i am very impressed with all the work, well done.

Looks awesome. I am so stoked you are helping me out with the fortress! I wouldn't have thought of that way to cover up the angel wings. It's looking great. I hope your neighbor does not complain. I'm really happy that this fortress is not going to look like a fortess with chaos spikes on it. It is going to be unique.

@ eldartau1987. Yeah dude, thats a great idea. I was actually thinking of doing four different faces, one for each chaos god. It is likely that this is the hardest of the efforts that i had in mind to try and pull off, and it remains to be seen if i decide to dive into this endevor. Either way i am feeling this to be the hardest of the conversion bits that I am going to engage with.Stay tuned.

@ Cormadepanda. Thanks. I have been a busy bee. About to launch into more work on the fortress after I get done with a few hours of work on a application i have to be a teacher at the high school level. I am in the second round of interviews and its going good.!!! Thanks for stopping by again.

@ Magnusthered~ Hey man. Glad to see you here since THIS is your fortress. I too am happy with the way that things are progressing. I am going to take the plunge and cement the inlays into the tower. Next step after that is going to be adding the plates and rivetting the outside. Probably another four hours of work. Still tossing the idea of the four patron gods around as a possible for the idols on the side of the tower. I am going to have to actually mute their faces slightly as far as detail goes so that they will look more like statues. The chains and spikes are gonna be some of the last details that i add so stay tuned.

Any comments and suggestions dakka. I would appreciate the ideas and feedback.

Four chaos gods faces would be a truly brilliant idea! sure there's a lot of work involved but with some good planning and the right additions I'm sure with skills such as yours you can do it!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And you could add some subtle references to each gods face! a bit of blood dribbling from Khorne, pus from Nurgle, perhaps a light glow or piercings for Slanesh, and for Tzeentch a blending into the surrounding building?

I would use a vulture like visage for Tzneech
a wolf like face for khorn
a corpse for nurgle
and a woman with a long twisting tounge for slanneesh.

more thinking.... must consider.

Hello. Sorry for the long wait, but here's a (painted) version of the bulked up torso and stuff. I don't have many WIPs for the torso itself, so hopefully you can see what i've done.


Also, instead of faces why not put their symbols there? They all have really distinct symbols. And if you can, perhaps add a cultist under the symbol, each one afflicted by their gods.
For example, a bleeding, headless cultist for Khorne, a highly mutated one for Tzeentch, one gaudily painted and dressed one for Slaanesh and a bloated, diseased one for nurgle, all hanging down from chains or in cages under the symbol.

Wow. Nice. I think your enhanced torso and limbs are a bit larger than mine even. Thats crazy. THey look good Know No Pear. use a red ink or wash for that. I gotta say, where did you get that space marine with the ax. I dont recognize the battle armor model that he is wearing. Is it space wolves?

Also, I havent fully commited to the demon faces. Times running out though and i am going to have to get a serious move on to banging out some more work.

Haha, I didn't plan it when i began, so I actually had no idea how large it would've turned out. I'm glad that it is this size though; makes an imposing chaos lord.
The normal marine is wearing the normal space wolves armour, but I'm not really a fan of the wolves so I tried for an Alpha Legion scheme.
Use a red ink or wash for which? Unless you're asking how the red was done, then it was Tamiya Acrylic Clear Red. It's amazing for blood effects, and dries looking like fresh blood. Add a bit of black and it'll look like you just tore through some loyalist scum!

Well, all the best for your fortress of redemption. Best get started! Hahaha

I think it would be a great way for you to save some time. Not saying that you could not create consistancy on your own but for me personally, it could save a lot of problems and frustration. I look forward to more progress!

could do no face and put cannons.. i dont see the problem. Get it?

So ... I finally got some time away from my three jobs (yes 3. I had four but i quit one. Better to have a ausicious number like three than one like 4).
Got some work done. I am almost done with the plating of the sides. I will post some shots of that when i am done, but It takes way longer than the sculpting does. I have spent about 12 hours so far getting the sides platted and the heads each take about an hour to sculpt a rough bust.

The spikes and chains are going on last. That way i can fiddle with the plates and such to get them just right. I think that they will only take a couple hours to complete but honestly, the whole things is gonna be pretty deadly to handle.

Hope the wait was worth it as far as updates go. This whole thing should be done pretty quick now that i am at a point where it is all coming together. Questions and comments welcome.

looking awsome man love the spikes, but to me the wolf head looks more like a crocs head lol

I agree. I am going to have to do a bit o work on it. The eyes are too high. I am just going to cut em off and then re-due so that the crock head thing becomes a thing of the past.

Yep, totally a gator face. Also, stealing that termi gas mask idea that you stole. I can't wait to see what the putrified fortress will look like. I'd love to see one of the statues actually vomiting.