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 Ruglud wrote:
Wonderful progress - you're sorely tempting me to get my T'Hawk back on the go... (and one of these days I'll actually complete a model that I attempt to build...)

This is why I jump from model to model. When I built Lucie there were months when I did nothing and the project could have easily been forgotten. Working on a different model keeps my interest focused and has that additional benefit of subconsciously coming up with a construction solution that may be vexing me on the other model.

 The_Blackadder wrote:

 Ruglud wrote:
Wonderful progress - you're sorely tempting me to get my T'Hawk back on the go... (and one of these days I'll actually complete a model that I attempt to build...)

This is why I jump from model to model. When I built Lucie there were months when I did nothing and the project could have easily been forgotten. Working on a different model keeps my interest focused and has that additional benefit of subconsciously coming up with a construction solution that may be vexing me on the other model.

I totally get where your coming from on this! I have not attempted anything near as complicated as these builds but jumping accross a couple of projects at a time dfinetly helps keep things fresh! Sometimes it feels like you can get too close to a design or model... so bouncing off to something else allows a bit of reflection... But alas....Ruglud i am in the same boat as you..... ONE DAY I WILL FINISH.... properly!!

That being said..... still some gloriously detailed work goin on here... really inspiring stuff!

Cheers Gang!

That Layered Look:

The first impulse is to cut the tail from thick styrene but it's better to use three layers for many reasons:

First it is nigh impossible to cut through 3,0 MM styrene with any degree of accuracy especially with hand held hobby tools. I try to limit my sheet material to 1,0 MM thick or less.

Second it's easier to modify your work should inspiration seize your labors as in my case where I have decided to add 'camber' to the stabilizer which will give it a more satisfying profile.

http://i.imgur.com/ToxFEEG.jpg


Plus the construction will be stronger.

http://i.imgur.com/f9Um0XC.jpg

Horizontal Stabilizer:

The basic airfoil for the horizontal stabilizer is roughed out and ready for the final sanding and detail
This is the front:

http://i.imgur.com/lC4DmWh.jpg


The backward orientation of the 'stab' continually confused me and I had to keep reminding myself, "This is the front and this is the back." but it all went together pretty well.

This is the back:

http://i.imgur.com/19Aq3yI.jpg


This is the bottom:

http://i.imgur.com/xZQDGLp.jpg


And this is the top:

http://i.imgur.com/Z5L29ke.jpg

Having read through the whole blog I must say, you've done a thoroughly impressive job and the attention to detail is fantastic, really wanting to have a go at making my own Thunderhawk now, but I have too many projects as it is so I must resist! Brilliant work so far Mr B.

Thanks,

Time To Take Stock:

http://i.imgur.com/JjLof0a.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/nzrqBfn.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/X720kiz.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/9UFzJpz.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/tOaIniR.jpg


All the charm of a brick.....


Automatically Appended Next Post:
More photos to come if I can get an ''addenda'' aborted.

I hate to have to resort to extortion but it's the principle of the thing.

I'd much prefer to just post at will on my own thread.

I hear you calling Blackaddder. Begone yea pesky AutoAppend

Thank you; I appreciate this. Maybe we can get this rule repealed at least for the authors of the threads............. Please?

You Saw the T'Hawk Coming; Now She's Going.........

Just think with the information contained on this thread you too could be in possession of a true scale T'Hawk; all it takes is therapy sessions once a week and a notification to your local Constabulary of an unstable resident in the district.

Laser spars stowed:

http://i.imgur.com/BU8DK29.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/vkRp8ty.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/nNoEIg2.jpg


Did I ever mention that the exhaust cones are made from Shoprite brand Mouth Wash Caps...........

http://i.imgur.com/PxiKPZM.jpg


BTW note the segmented end on the center engine exhaust. Where do you suppose such a ready made item comes from? As I sit back enjoying my well earned Martini I can only tell you a clue is in this post.

A very professional looking build, carefully executed. I always have problems cutting plasticard strait but this whole build looks as neat as a pin.

 Gogsnik wrote:
A very professional looking build, carefully executed. I always have problems cutting plasticard strait but this whole build looks as neat as a pin.

I've been asked so often how I cut Plasticard and fabricate my models I've made a stock answer:

How are you getting such clean cut lines when you cut the plasticard?

Ah, that is the question I am asked most often and the answer cannot be repeated too many times because I think it the singular most important ability to achieve when anyone sets out to scratch build.


Regarding tools I don't use anything special. Aside from what you see here I do have a Dremel cordless, a cheap electric scroll saw, and a desk top belt sander all of which are rarely used.

http://i.imgur.com/pIJjy.jpg



The main cutting tool I use is the retractable blade Stanley utility knife and I do have a see through plastic 12 inch scale to take measurements off of my LCD monitor.

I have two computer programs that allow me to scale the images and magnify them; ACDSee 14 and ULead Photo Impact 13 Editor.

The biggest problem new scratchers have is using the wrong cutting tool. Craft cutting tools such as Xacto knives are useful and I have two pictured above, these are for fine detail work not for basic cutting and shaping.

As stated previously the Stanley Utility knife is the single most important tool in your inventory; it doesn't have to be of that manufacturer but of this type.



Small plastic handle snap off blade retractable knives of the type shown below are useless for hobby work, the blade wobbles in the grip and you are more likely to injure yourself that to do any decent cutting with a tool of this type.



In addition you will probably require:

A steel straight edge, sanding blocks (coarse and medium grit), and single cut 'farmers' file are used to get straight clean cuts and crisp 90° edges. You'll never get that with a 1/4 inch Xacto knife.

Another trick is score and snap; using the utility knife and straight edge score a line on the sheet plastic then a second to deepen the cut ( make additional passes for thicker sheets) then snap the sheet at the score line.

Always make two or more shallow cuts instead of trying to cut through with a single pass.

Dress your edges with the file and sanding blocks.

This should get you started, please ask for any clarification on the above.

As for detail, its hard to explain but my feeling is "More is better." A good supply of scrap styrene and bitz is essential and just try to duplicate what you see. Practice is the catch word here, there is no shortcut to experience and I am still learning myself.

Regarding the clothes pins I reverse the wood jaws in the spring for better clamping and I do have quite a few likewise with the modeling bar clamps. They are cheap here, I don't know if they are in New Guinea but you can order them on line from Amazon or Harbor Freight for about $2 bucks each:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch...lt?q=bar+clamps

I hope this helps but if not feel free to ask about anything that is unclear.

Oh yes - you can't beat the Stanley Knife for cutting plasticard (or soft wood, card, paper...). My trusty 199 has been in my hobby toolbox for as long as I care to remember. Reversed clothes pegs are a great idea - hadn't considered that for clamps. I generally use bulldog clips and have various sizes clamp to my tool box (an old cardboard box lid)

Back tot the t-hawk - the engine cowls look great, that segmented end though - reminds me of the grips you get in hosepipe connectors, but I'm intrigued to learn what they actually are?

Ball turrets:



I'm out on a limb starting this with an image of table tennis balls but I am going to try to use these for a basis to model the turrets. I want mine to open the same as the FW original:



So we'll see together where this will lead.

The balls are 1.5 inches in diameter (39 MM). First does anyone know the diameter of the Raven Turret? Just curious is all because I think this is a good size for the T'hawk.........

I love it when I come back after being gone and have 3 pages of Blackadder goodness to enjoy

Welcome back, you snooze you lose......

Well I had to play 'Dad' and help my daughter to move into her new apartment today but before that a bit of work on the turret. I have confirmed by an unusually reliable source that the turret ball is slightly more than 1.5 inches 38,0 MM

in diameter precisely my estimation but nice to have verification.

Anyway wrapping the ball with 0.5 MM styrene gives me a gun race of 1.6 inches perfect for the Thunderhawk.

http://i.imgur.com/ocVvFab.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/QP1pjpW.jpg


With the gum bands removed there appears a good start for this interesting modification.

http://i.imgur.com/iYZm1ka.jpg
.

Some very useful tips there Mr B, thanks for sharing those. As it happens I've always used a Stanley knife (just got a nice pair of min folding blades of a similar design, useful for more fiddly work). I have some very stiff wood pegs that I will have to start using, having never considered them before, and invest in some bar clamps too; one issue I have when scoring plasticard is the ruler slipping/scudding some clamps would no doubt resolve that problem.

I guess the ball turrets in background terms are a more advanced weapon platform than the Land Raider/Predator sponsons the Thunderhawk seems to have so using those will make for a more sophisticated gunship, not to mention the extra detailing they provide. I imagine that using them will require a section of fuselage to be cut out for them to sit into?

 Gogsnik wrote:
Some very useful tips there Mr B, thanks for sharing those. As it happens I've always used a Stanley knife (just got a nice pair of min folding blades of a similar design, useful for more fiddly work).

I'm not familiar with 'Mini Folding Blades' but I am always suspect of so called improvements on already 'perfect tools' (IMHO) Folding blades seem to insure blade wobble but that is your choice. I can only state what works well for me but then I have decades of practice using tools of this type.

I have some very stiff wood pegs that I will have to start using, having never considered them before, and invest in some bar clamps too;

I don't understand?

one issue I have when scoring plasticard is the ruler slipping/scudding some clamps would no doubt resolve that problem.

I would stay away from mechanical clamps for scoring, nothing beats the human hand (No lewd innuendos please. Let's keep this thread SFW. Ha!)

Not being privy to your work platform I can only tell you that applying pressure to the ruler with thumb and forefinger and lightly scoring the plastic should supply sufficient depth of cut to 'score and snap' 1,0 MM styrene however there is no substitute for practice.

I guess the ball turrets in background terms are a more advanced weapon platform than the Land Raider/Predator sponsons the Thunderhawk seems to have so using those will make for a more sophisticated gunship, not to mention the extra detailing they provide. I imagine that using them will require a section of fuselage to be cut out for them to sit into?

Right you are; also I believe the turrets will be an interesting tour de force.

I also like the look of the Ball Turrets, but won't they reduce some of the transport space inside?

Shouldn't restrict the loading of the Rhino but it's good you queried as I'd better make measurements to be sure...

Ball Turrets Two:

Reinforced center axis installed, Rotation axle installed sides flattened to receive gun mount axles.

http://i.imgur.com/m4wxHTJ.jpg


Not much more to say until the gun mount is built.

Conduit Collars:

You always have to be on the look out for interesting bits of scrap such as the subject of this post; conduit collars.

It would be pretty tedious to make collars to ring the penetration points where the large electrical conduits enter the housings; in this case the Reaver head jowls. Leaving these plain give an unfinished look to the area besides the more detail the better.

http://i.imgur.com/HyMYDR5.jpg


Fortunately I have had this idea for quite a few years and have mentioned it before but it doesn't hurt to re-introduce it.

http://i.imgur.com/EYrG2lv.jpg


When you cut large holes in styrene using wood hole augers you get these nicely shaped rings that are roundly beveled inside and out but usually get swept away with the refuse. These make dandy collars with a minimum of cleaning and sanding.

http://i.imgur.com/VayG0C3.jpg


The image above shows the clooars glued in place before the final cleaning and I believe they add a nice touch to an ordinarily bland area.

I have used these extensively on most of my models even as just tchotchke decorations.

The Man Who Do Too Much:

Previously I demonstrated and suggested an easy way to add detail to projects by utilizing scrap discs left over from drilling holes in styrene. That offering apparently fell on fallow ground other than to generate not a few replies that I "mistakenly" posted either triplicates or on the wrong thread entirely; Ha! I just felt that the information applied equally to all my scratch projects.

That intentional ''blanket'' suggestion was a precursor to the current project where I am attempting to recreate the FW "Ball Turret" for my Thunderhawk.

Making the turret operable may have been a bit too ambitious at least for the way I conceptualized the assembly.

http://i.imgur.com/jTxQqXe.jpg


(BTW I am not aware whether the FW Ball Turret functions on all three operational (axēs) parameters?)

Anyway employing the scrap discs to supply two of the three axēs I needed now only address the rotational axle.
http://i.imgur.com/vowHL34.jpg


I'm sorry to say I'm not at all pleased with the overall result which appears to me too cumbersome.

http://i.imgur.com/Vm344XV.jpg


Especially the straps that append the training axle to the targeting race.

Foam Core! The Bane Of My Existence:

Once again I have come to regret the folly of using foam core poster board for a quick and easy and inexpensive way to frame a model.

It's alright for some; rational people secure in their competence that they will not change that which is satisfactory. But for a neurotic like me who is dissatisfied with completion and goes to extraordinary lengths to forestall that eventuality foam is a bad way to go.

Here we see the first inroads into cutting a socket fo the future ball mount. The yellowed area is resin applied to foam board to secure the styrene skin to the poster board frame.

http://i.imgur.com/1WhabJW.jpg


So what time have I saved when I have now to build the cargo bay inside out now to install the ball turret module.

The left side with the ball temporary mounted in the cutout for scale.

http://i.imgur.com/ar6z0pJ.jpg


There seems ample room for the entire module and a fairly uncluttered field of fire for this weapon with 'interrupters' installed to prevent shooting off the still to be fabricated canards and the wings and the engines.

http://i.imgur.com/ATnvi3L.jpg


A closeup of the accordion boot fabricate from a bendable soda straw for the recoil-less AA gun barrel.

http://i.imgur.com/VcXrXYY.jpg



Automatically Appended Next Post:
Can I get an auto append interrupter please?

Provided

Thanks,

Not a Padded Cell:

Not yet anyway but working on it. I might just as well go for broke and install that cargo bay interior I've had in the back of my mind some time. Ever since I first saw these ball turrets.

http://i.imgur.com/ewQWvLj.jpg


After gutting the foam from all but the ceiling of the forward bay and flight deck I find I have room to spare for all the goodies including the interior LEDs lighting.

I don't think I need go any further back into the structure because that would necessitate tearing out the wing roots and the landing gear housings and seriously compromise the entire structure of the aft superstructure; no that would be really bad.........

http://i.imgur.com/4pulBDL.jpg


Anyway the cargo bay and ball turrets have a lot to keep me occupied for quite some time.

http://i.imgur.com/N5NLR5i.jpg


This interior shoot shows the inner space looking forward to the cargo door opening.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Once more Please.

I admire your bravery in ripping open a model that was already "built".

More details is always good.
Carry on.

Good grief, the bendy straw idea is a stroke of genius! Outstanding work Blackadder!

Okay Dakka is up to date with this post.

Dr H,

It may be built but not completed and no model I've ever built is ever "that" completed....

Elnibbus,

Thanks, my only regret is I cannot find ''bendy'' straws a half inch in diameter....

-----------------------------------------------

Beefing Up The Bevel Ring:

Looking at the Raven image below you can see that the gun mount ring immediately surrounding the turret itself is beveled on the inner rim.

http://i.imgur.com/g4gEc0x.jpg


Since I rarely use 2,0 MM styrene especially precision holes the best way is IMHO is to sandwich flexible 2,0 MM strips between 1,0 MM gluing and clamping to hold the strip to the backing.

http://i.imgur.com/xmjlYrr.jpg


Since the bevel is quite thick a second strip is required as seen below.

http://i.imgur.com/L3ZOzxg.jpg

The Thunderhawk Has Balls:

Just a dry run to see how everything fits. I have to open up the bevel a bit but the overall look is pretty good. The size seem alright not too small and not too big.

http://i.imgur.com/xMPXppf.jpg


It's going to take some time to get use to how much the turret protrudes from the mount; once I enlarge the bevel I may recess the ball a few millimeters.

http://i.imgur.com/9ee05Vo.jpg


The next few images just display the range of movement of the turret:

http://i.imgur.com/uZu3lWD.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/eQUkzfw.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/u4cJTVj.jpg


And these last show the bevel before I smooth the surface.

http://i.imgur.com/MuDxchG.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/q2itwZ1.jpg

Amazing! The level of detail and crispness is inspiring.

I've been quiet since I saw he ball turret and realized you were going to cut holes in the masterpiece. I knew you had a cunning plan, but still I was worried because I've seen bad things happen before.....mainly in my own thread . But now I see where your progressing too/from and it was brilliant.

By the way, I got my airbrush and have been thoroughly enjoying it, even painting my nids with a half baked version of your style.

Wow, that's shaping up to be 100% cooler than the official Thunderhawk model.

Have you considered giving it a name? Like an "Obsidian pattern" Thunderhawk?