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That is fair, I sort of figured it was a technical rather than design issue and it still looks quite good. Curves are the way of the iFuture (Infinity/Anime/New Trek style) anyways, comfort and practicality is for the past. Not like the bus stop benches around here are much better anyways, plenty of them don't even have backs.

 -Loki- wrote:


I'd much prefer stuff like this than everything being right angles, so I don't mind.

Oh me either! I agree, it's not like the mini can sit anyways Still a great-looking piece!

Just got word they've arrived. Not bad - 3 working days shipping. Unfortunately I don't get them for another couple of weeks as they're a birthday gift.

That's always a frustrating one! It'll be all the sweeter when you finally get to tear into them though.

The best bit was getting a packing that smells like burnt wood delivered to my fiancees office.

Lol yeah, I wonder if that ever causes problems with international shipping.

Just my luck. I go to buy the Food Booth and ORB 2.0 building... and Warmill have closed their store until the 7th of October.

So I'm buying some Sarissa stuff instead. Looking like it'll be the Warhouse and Warhouse pod, maybe even the Commercial pod.. I'll grab the Warmill stuff later.

edit - aaand bought. Warhouse and a Commercial pod with side access. I'll post pics of all this when it'd one - I aim to get it all built and painted quick smart so my friends and I can stop going to the store to play. I think these were a better buy than the Warmill stuff right now anyway. The Food Booth and Orb 2.0 are small enough to almost be scatter terrain. These give me two huge feth off LoS blocking buildings with interiors to move through. Later on I'll add a few more apartment buildings and the Food booth and Orb 2.0.

Looking forward to seeing them finished and painted.

Will be checking in on this thread

Painting them is my sticking point. I'm still deciding a scheme.

I want to do a Bourak themed town, with Earthy colours so it reflects the town at the start of Serenity, rather than the standard 'clean gray and white' I see everywhere. So I'm thinking any pavement/bases for buildings will be sprayed a tan colour, while the buildings will be a medium brown to let the laser etched details show through (dark brown will hide them).

Hey, So I previously posted some stuff about my foray into Laser cut terrain. I originally planned to just produce designs for myself. But The friendly people at Urban Lasercraft http://urbanlasercraft.com/ liked my stuff and they now produce and sell some of my laser cut designs.
So this is a shameless plug. But I think you may still like the look of their stuff.
My stuff SiFi Stuff is here. http://store.urbanlasercraft.com/scifiterrain.html

Below are some conceptual renders of my designs.







There are more Images on my Blog. http://plansofdiceandmen.blogspot.com.au/

Love the 3 way ad board. I'll have to buy one of those!

Any one know where I can get correctly scaled chain link fencing, preferably with barbed wire topping?

I have an idea for a nice Paradiso table and I'd need a good 4 feet of it!

Mosquito netting, plasticard rods and 28mm scale razor wire, all sprayed metallic?

http://blog.ryan.skow.org/2012/08/chain-link-fence-wip.html

Kit linked in this blog post has 8 feet of fencing for $33 plus shipping. The picture shows nylon tulle as the mesh for the fence itself, and you can get a LOT of tulle for cheap and build the frame/fence posts yourself out of brass or plastic rod

Brass or metal would glue to metal mesh better than dissimilar materials. that fence looks great though.

That's really cool Kalamadea, thanks for posting. Probably one of the best options I have seen so far.

Think I ended up buying some O (possibly HO) scale fence for model railway, and mounting on thin strips of Balsa.

Game wise we play it as a short order to cut through, and acts as though firing into low light (-3 to hit).

So I got some of my stuff today, the rest hasn't arrived yet.

The BP Laser stuff is very nice - and doesn't come on a frame! It's laser cut into the exact shapes with no cutting needed. However, they provide no instructions and there's lots of bits.

Okay, what's the best way to prime HDF buildings?

The stuff I got from BP Laser basically builds into 3 peices. The base, the building walls, and the roof. I know I can spray prime the bits fine, but would it be a good idea to build those sections before priming, or just prime it all as separate peices before building?

Are the roofs going to be removable? If they are anything like the MAS buildings i'd assemble them, except the roof, and then prime those bits separately.

Yes, the roof has little tabs to hold it in place but I want it to be removable. I also want the base removable for easier storage. So I'm thinking I should construct it into those 3 parts, and prime them like that.

Finally got around to building the apartments after doing ridiculous work hours for the last few weeks plus lots of stuff because I'm moving and getting a new house built.

Just make sure that you mask off the inside of those window edges IF you want the acrylic window panes to fit in. They are a really tight fit after painting.

I'm planning on leaving the windows out. I'm not a fan of the acrylic inserts, and I want the interiors of the buildings to be used. The windows make great cover points. Plus opens up the cinematic gameplay when someone dives headlong through a window while being shot at.

 -Loki- wrote:
I'm planning on leaving the windows out. I'm not a fan of the acrylic inserts, and I want the interiors of the buildings to be used. The windows make great cover points. Plus opens up the cinematic gameplay when someone dives headlong through a window while being shot at.

No... No... No... You're doing it all wrong! "Cinematic gameplay" comes from rolling a d6...

Valete,

JohnS

 cygnnus wrote:

 -Loki- wrote:
I'm planning on leaving the windows out. I'm not a fan of the acrylic inserts, and I want the interiors of the buildings to be used. The windows make great cover points. Plus opens up the cinematic gameplay when someone dives headlong through a window while being shot at.

No... No... No... You're doing it all wrong! "Cinematic gameplay" comes from rolling a d6...

Valete,

JohnS

Those are Infinity models. They use a D20.

20 is more than 6, so it will be even more cinematic!

I find having the windows open in the BP building makes TOO MUCH LoF across the board. We mostly play building as solid with ladders on the outsides.

They're not going to be the primary central LoS blockers. I have the Sarissa Commercial Pod and Warehouse for that. The houses and transit stop, plus a few choice buildings from Warmill, are going to be outlying terrain.

Mostly it's because I'm just not a big fan of the acrylic inserts, so leaving them out keeps some internal building combat possible. It's nice and easy to lift the roof and levels off, and easy enough to blu-tac a marker where any potential models on top were.

After putting together the Sarissa Commercial Pod (and doing part of it slightly wrong, but oh well), I've noticed that aesthetically the terrain I have doesn't really match up. The BPLaser buildings are great, and so are the Sarissa buildings, but they definitely look like they're from different manufacturers. So I've decided to do two sets of terrain!

I'm going to buy some more BPLaser buildings and combined them with Warmill Street Wars buildings like the Medical Center, Food Booths and ORBs to create an urban sprawl set, and then a second set using all Sarissa Precision terrain to make an isolated outpost type set.

I like a disparate look to my terrain.

I don't aim to have my boards look like a mcsuburb where every building looks the same.

Remind me please, where is that last building from?