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 Specs wrote:
Just picked mine up from the post office. No duties or taxes of any kind. I've checked my boards and there's no sign of any warpage. I haven't taken any minis out of their bags yet, but I haven't seen any obvious issues. I guess I'll find out once I begin dry-fitting.

That's good to hear. As an aside, CMON always devalues packages at least in my experience. On average I order $150 at a time from them and they tend to send it as $10 value.

I received my box recently, and I'm mostly pleased. I haven't had time to do more than look at the game contents, but I've nearly assembled all of the Biohazard bits. They are on par with Dreadball's minis, in terms of quality. The bigger models all have some slight bending, though.

The Strain all look great. They look sufficiently gribbly and Sci-Fi (although the Scythe Witch looks more like a daemonette in a Borg catsuit than a proper strain, which is not necessarily a negative), with the big creatures standing out with their excellent designs. Their look falls somewhere between Doom and H.R. Giger for me, which is schweet.

Unfortunately, I do have a problem with the unhelmeted women. The hands on the guns do not line up with their wrists, and the models are too small and fiddly to use the hot water/cold water technique very easily. I hope they will replace them with either a resculpt or a similar number of helmeted women.

Also, I can't say I'm too happy about their poses. During the KS, I was just glad someone was making well-armored women with sensible helmets. The cocked hips and Daisy Duke butt armor didn't look so cheesy back then, but in real life it's hard to imagine anyone standing like that outside of an Avengers poster.


All in all, I'm mostly very happy with my purchase, but I can see some areas where Studio McVey can improve when they bring out the expansions.

I think mine arrived today. I haven't gone to the post office to check, but a friend of mine's arrived today and we live like 20-30 minutes away from one another.

Sorry, cold/warm does not work on those thin pieces? It works especially well on thin pieces!

Looking at the latest update, one thing that strikes me more than anything is the difference in attitude between that update, and McVey's post just a bit earlier.

No way in hell is CMoN going to meaningfully 'fix' those issues with the boards - I think the McVey's will get stung with what is essentially (because this is not just the guy running off with the cash...) a choice on CMoN's part to cut costs where they shouldn't be cut - and it seems like they'll be trying to gloss it over in just the way some naysayers predicted. Guess those can be right, at times :/

Actually, though some surly will know it better, production failures do happen, even to the best companies. An failure rate of 3% is actually considered as a good production run when producing stuff in a factory. Even 6% is not that bad. And what I have heared the failure rate is somwhere between the two.

What I really hate!

Not giving a company a chance to rectify the problem in due time. And by due I mean within 3-6 months, cause this is the time needed to propare and produce replacements if there really is an overall failure. If it just is problem with some pieces, then they should have replacements and you can expect them within a month. Oh, and off-center tokens are considered normal in the board game business and if the essential info still is on the marker it is fully up to the producer to replace them or not. If he does then this is considered above-standard treatment of the customer.

Aye, I've had off centre board game tokens from FFG so its not something totally uncommon.

With talk about the warping I've left the boardgames alone in the box to gradually come up to my house temp after my first glance, and touch wood it seems fine at the mo.

 Morathi's Darkest Sin wrote:
Aye, I've had off centre board game tokens from FFG so its not something totally uncommon.

With talk about the warping I've left the boardgames alone in the box to gradually come up to my house temp after my first glance, and touch wood it seems fine at the mo.

Misaligned circular tokens are rather common.

I only have one warped map sheet, why it is only one I have no clue. But to unwarp it I am doing the old apple trick.

OK - what's the old apple trick?

Old apple trick?

Please explain. I've never heard of it.

 Duncan_Idaho wrote:
Sorry, cold/warm does not work on those thin pieces? It works especially well on thin pieces!

Not what he said.

BobtheInquisitor wrote:
Unfortunately, I do have a problem with the unhelmeted women. The hands on the guns do not line up with their wrists, and the models are too small and fiddly to use the hot water/cold water technique very easily.

And that's the exact bit I'm stuck on at the moment. It seems that the only choice is to heat the gun and have it bend around the models chest, leaving you with a curved gun. Or cut off her boobs.

I've tried asking on other forums how people got them together and the answer I've gotten is "These are gaming pieces! Who cares if they don't fit right". Sometimes I get sick of people and the white knighting.

The hands on the guns do not line up with their wrists, and the models are too small and fiddly to use the hot water/cold water technique very easily.

That´s exactly what he said. Heating up works on these pieces quite well. If you do have problems with doing it with water use a good hair-dryer.

CptJake wrote:
Old apple trick?

Please explain. I've never heard of it.

take a garbage bag

put your game boards between a heavy set of books (make sure the hump is pointing up)

place these in the bag.

No take a few apples and cut them in half and place them in a zip lock back with holes in them. place them through the bag.

take some painters tape and seal the garbage bag.

let it set for 24 to 48 hours.

take out your apple and feed them to your raccoon (or throw them in the garbage).

leave the boards with the book on top for another day or 2.

the boards should be flat. I worked with my Tannhauser board, battlelore, Mansions of Madness.

Alternatively you can get on of those sandwich containers and drill a few small wholes and fill it with water for moisture. (you don't need much water).

make sure you keep it on a flat surface at room temp or warmer with no cats.

trust me, NO CATS

Ooh looksie, finally got my tracking number. Monday - that could have been worse. If of course, UPS actually sticks to it's schedule

 Duncan_Idaho wrote:
Sorry, cold/warm does not work on those thin pieces? It works especially well on thin pieces!

Looking at the latest update, one thing that strikes me more than anything is the difference in attitude between that update, and McVey's post just a bit earlier.

No way in hell is CMoN going to meaningfully 'fix' those issues with the boards - I think the McVey's will get stung with what is essentially (because this is not just the guy running off with the cash...) a choice on CMoN's part to cut costs where they shouldn't be cut - and it seems like they'll be trying to gloss it over in just the way some naysayers predicted. Guess those can be right, at times :/

Actually, though some surly will know it better, production failures do happen, even to the best companies. An failure rate of 3% is actually considered as a good production run when producing stuff in a factory. Even 6% is not that bad. And what I have heared the failure rate is somwhere between the two.

What I really hate!

Not giving a company a chance to rectify the problem in due time. And by due I mean within 3-6 months, cause this is the time needed to propare and produce replacements if there really is an overall failure. If it just is problem with some pieces, then they should have replacements and you can expect them within a month. Oh, and off-center tokens are considered normal in the board game business and if the essential info still is on the marker it is fully up to the producer to replace them or not. If he does then this is considered above-standard treatment of the customer.

Actually I think you misunderstand me. I understand production mistakes happen and I'd be happy to give a company all the time in the world to correct them. What I'm on about is the attitude shown by CMoN in their update (I hope you'll agree that can be a relevant metric for, you know, CS?) which to me shows they're building up towards "meh, sorry for the bendy, inferior quality boards - deal with it and be sure to back our newest KS!" instead of doing something meaningful (of course they'll replace boards which are separating out of the box - that's the most rudimentary requirement - not a shining example of good CS!).
Where do you see me mentioning off-center tokens? I know it happens and I'm not making a fuss about that at all.
if you're talking about BG quality standards though, let's examine that for a bit. It seems these boards either have the thickness of the descent (1st ed, not had a look at 2nd yet) which is fine for pieces of that size but not at 14"x14".
They're also not in any way sealed at the sides, which again is fine at descent board piece size but not at 14"x14". I know cloth binding(concealing that seal) around the edges (1) costs money, but hey maybe it should've just been $10 more and (2) take up some space and that might not be aesthetically ideal - but at least it'd be playable (and really, when playing on a 2D board noone's going to mind those edges...).

That's what I'm on about. Not some offset counter strawman you're making out of it. Not the claim that they should magically have evaded all possible issues, somehow. Just that those boards are naff not by production error, but by design and that they're happily pointing the finger at everyone but them in a way which really, really gets me the wrong way.

Now if you still have issues with that, I'd kindly ask of you to please, please never ever be the lead on any physical product development, ever (you did digital work, translations etc, right?). For the sake of everyone else...

and the helmetless and the Huxley with OSL on the base

Good news everybody, I have an important missio.....err the tracker says mine were just delivered.

Now to sneak off from work, put the kids to bed early and crack open the boxes. Woot!

 Duncan_Idaho wrote:

The hands on the guns do not line up with their wrists, and the models are too small and fiddly to use the hot water/cold water technique very easily.

That´s exactly what he said. Heating up works on these pieces quite well. If you do have problems with doing it with water use a good hair-dryer.

You are reading it wrong. Too small and fiddly has nothing to do with the temperature but rather with my ability to manipulate the tiny pieces accurately.

The above pic seems to show them lining up OK, but I can't tell for sure given the distance from the female figures.

Maybe, a closeup of them, please?

Look at their right arms above the elbow. The humerus is doglegged--the armor is not supposed to be shelved like that, but rather one smooth tube from shoulder to elbow.

Bob's right. There is a small fit issue there as, because of the model's breasts, the contact point doesn't line up exactly. It will still fit, but there is a small...its not really a gap, but sort of an "armor outcropping."

I'll have to take a closer look at the figures when I get home...as I'm not seeing it in those photos.

Not saying it isn't there - just saying I'm not seeing it!

Haven't read it through yet, but Studio McVey just posted a more comprehensive FAQ:

http://studiomcvey.com/forums/index.php?/topic/748-sedition-wars-battle-for-alabaster-official-rules-faq-errata/page__pid__11753#entry11753

Their rules haven't started as great, but they've been very good about clarifying them, and they've been very open about some of the errata they're looking in to.

And you know what...I'm not super concerned about anything being unclear in the initial rulebook if it's FAQed because it's their first go around at penning rules in the first place, no easy undertaking.

Should be a good learning experience for them moving forward.

@Alpharius -- The issue with the joins on the female arms is, IMO, a pretty minor one. The connection point simply doesn't meet up 100% but rather only 80ish%. It makes it appear that the armor has a sort of fin. I thought about GSing it, but I probably wont even bother.

It's not 80% on my models. If I attach the left wrist, she right arm looks broken. If I attach the right arm correctly, the left wrist doesn't even meet the arm.

Bob - show us some pictures of your problem!

Maybe someone here can help, or maybe you have a defective batch that need to be replaced.

You're talking about the female sculpts?

What I did was align it with the left hand: the right bicep is wide enough that you can shave a little off and it'll line up without looking too narrow...

Maybe you are bending the wrong part? It may not be the guns that are out of whack, it may be the mini. Try bending the arm on the mini by dipping it in very hot water for a few seconds. I've been doing some conversion work and I have to tell you these get pretty bendy in near boiling water. One of my males is actually kneeling down now!

This is my first real experience with resin or restic, but it reminds me of the old metal monopose days, where lets say you didn't want all your aspect warriors to look exactly the same (there was only one pose for each aspect back then) you had to start bending them.

Does anybody with any real experience have any pointers for bending this stuff? It seams pretty simple really heat and bend, but maybe there are some better methods.

DON'T BURN YOURSELF, USE THE PROPER TOOLS!

I've must have dodged a bullet, so far all my female models have gone together like a dream. A bit of filing on the wrists were needed but so far no mismatches.

As fat as major issues with the models them selves

warped grendlr x2
1 warped board
2 or 3 damaged strain cards
3 broken resin karas (swords)

2 of these are fixable 2 I will contact c'mon for replacement.

Though these things I personally feel could have been prevented if they put more money into upgrades and quality in products rather than a ton of miniatures, took more time on packaging and quality control rather than rushing. Guess hindsight 20/20, just hope these issues don't hurt the game long term.

Kind of the reason I gave it a 6/10 which it deserves 8/10.

I meant 80% of the contact point sits flush vs. 100% of it being flush.

I did what Spiral and PH did; just did a bit of filing and the contact points worked.

My issues:

Missing my heroes!!! No hero bag so I've primed my resin Kara and she's on the painting desk (after I get some more paint on my Warhound---he was sitting there mocking me, so I had to get some paint on him.)

Missing one Scyth Witch arm.

I guess my boards are warped. I didn't really notice as status quo for me with any boards is to set them flat at Ohio humidity to get them acclimated.

My box is a BIT concave, but that's not really an issue.

Again, overall I'm really pleased.

 Alpharius wrote:
Bob - show us some pictures of your problem!

Maybe someone here can help, or maybe you have a defective batch that need to be replaced.

I'm not Bob but I posted this previously of the same issue with no feedback.



The rifle does not line up properly at the back arm. If you place the rifle so it lines up at the wrist you get a HUGE gap at the back. There simply isn't enough "arm" to cover the distance needed. This issue only occurs on the helmet-less female figure. I also experienced this issue with the special weapons.

I don't have my game yet but looking at that it's probably best to heat the left arm in near boiling water and bend it into the body a little to close the gap - the distance between the 2 arms.

Thought I'd share, here-- going to be painting my whole set, but starting with a test mini.