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Epic work man! Can't wait to see it painted too!

That really is quite magnificent, and truly outstanding, most impressive.

 whembly wrote:
Epic work man! Can't wait to see it painted too!

I can't even think about that yet. The way my stupid mind works, I think about how long and difficult that will be, and then it just seems overwhelming and I don't even start. I have to think baby steps.

 Ouze wrote:

 whembly wrote:
Epic work man! Can't wait to see it painted too!

I can't even think about that yet. The way my stupid mind works, I think about how long and difficult that will be, and then it just seems overwhelming and I don't even start. I have to think baby steps.

I hear ya man... I do think Orky vehicles are easier to paint as it shouldn't have clean lines like a speesh murren vehicle.

Still... it's truly awesome, and thanks for sharing.

Glad to see this project keeping up momentum!

Good gravy that looks cool. And massive as well

This thing is amazing. love the attention to detail, not to mention your plasticard and moulding skills

Amazing job!

Just needs some work around the cab now, minor bits and bobs though.

What no updatez?

My reaction to this wondrous Orky build is best summed up by this image:

I got thoroughly sick of it, so did a Necron Overlord and that Tomb Stalker for a break. I've been working on it exclusive since Jan 7th - thats just about 4 months, which is about 3 months more then I usually spend on a project. For me, this is always, every single time, the hardest part of one of my "things" - the first 50% flies, the next 40% moves very fast, and the last 10% drags on forever.

However, there is a challenge that has occurred. On the very last step of the Tomb Stalker, I broke my airbrush (like broke broke, the air valve separated from the body, bad weld). I mailed it back to have it repaired, so now I kinda have to work The Beast for a bit.

I did the rear door this very evening, and got it riveted up. I'm also off all next week (allllllllll week!) so plan to try and have it done for reals then, not counting Iron Man Monday.

Sorry to hear about the air brush, hope it all works out on the repairs/replacement.

I hoping to get the other half of my battle fortress back from a friend, that was holding onto my stuff...but I have been asking for it for the past 5 months...I got 2 weeks until a 30day break from work for a surgery and hope to have it by then though. I have been wanting to finish it up for a long time but without the front half it makes things well a bit difficult...

It may not be a scrach build but I'm happy with it sofar.

A pic of the progress from before i moved...

What is that monstrosity?!

I wanted a battle fortress and to be able to get the most out of it. And not be stuck only being able to field it in a apoc game.

So I made it as a 2 in 1 Battle Wagon / Battle Fortress.

So far it's turning out great...just need to get the front half back =\ to finish it

I just read through all five pages and oh my, you have just inspired me to make my own battle fortress/waaghcraft carrier. The best part is I work at lowes so I get all these little pipe cuts and styrene signs for free!

No, probably not, I thought.

Well, barring that, could I spend a bunch of money on yet another project I won't complete?

Surely!

And could I post a worklog on Dakka Dakka, to which many people will view, and comment muchly upon, and then slowly become more and more disappointed as they realize I'm rarely able to finish my projects?

Holy Moly! I was reading that and thought "When did I write this post? I've been thinking about building an Orky Battlewagon, but I haven't even started yet..." Then I saw the ink and realized it wasn't my post after all.

Sure am glad I'm not the only one spending gobs on unfinished projects!

wow! mindblowing. cant wait to see it painted up.

Put some work in today.

I did some detailing on the cab, did the backplate, and added armor to the deck.



Some views of the backplate, with the engine in place:







That's the last time it's going to be together for a while. I disassembled it today so I could start riveting and priming. I think I got pretty much all the design phase done; now we're up to the boring parts.

I took off the sides, and started riveting. This is mind-numbing in the extreme. This took me like an hour.



I did the cab, and for it primed:




This is where I am with the Deffrolla:



The way I see it, there is kind of a piston augmented rail that pushes back and forth, and I tried to represent two rails that move with the bumps in the road and whatever things it hits, and they both move independently, sort of a suspension/compensator. Since they move back and forth, then adding some teef would help to shred anything that somehow got under the deffrolla alive. I intend to do the deffrolla rails red, the teef white, and kind of make it look like giant mouth.


I didn't realize until I saw this picture what a dumb idea it was to add headlights to the cab:



I'm still not 100% sold on the Deffrolla, so maybe it will work out.

Wow! I'm at a loss of words, my mouth is watering!

Epic in every way!

Love the Rolla, I would keep It as It is actually

I did about... 3 or so hours on this. All of it was doing rivets. I am really, really starting to hate this project, but things are looking up. First, let me explain my methods for doing rivets in the hope someone will explain to me the error of my ways.

1.) This is how I did the rivets on my Meganobz: Drill out the holes with a pin vise. Add a tiny drop of Model Master Plastic Cement. Drop in a bead from a water softener with tweezers.

There were a lot of problems with this. First, my fingers would be absolutely killing me after about 20 minutes of this from the pin vise. It was hard to get an even drop of plastic cement out, and sometimes when dropping in the bead, I'd miss. The real problem with this, though, was that the plastic cement doesn't really bond with the water softener beads, so with further handling, some would just rub off and need to be re-applied. Tedious (although after priming them, the beads seem pretty secure). I then moved over to method 2:

2.) Drill the holes with a dremel tool, then put in a drop of ultra-thin superglue, then (this is gross, I know) touch the back of my hobby knife to my tongue, pick up a bead, and drop it in the hole.

This had some advantages and some disadvantages. I was averse initially to using a 1/32" drill bit in the dremel tool since my previous experience showed me it would overheat swiftly and snap on even the slowest speed. However, that's back when I was drilling into white metal for pins (dumbass) and that problem doesn't happen in styrene.

The beads are really, really in there with this method. However, there are other problems (besides super glue on my tongue). First off, to get really good precision on the super-thin superglue, I couldn't use the needle applicator it came with, since it wasn't actually a needle; the gauge was too wide. I cut an old insulin hypo a friend gave me in half, and attached it to the tip of the dispenser. This gave very, very precise glue application; but the glue also kept drying in the needle, requiring me to hit the needle with a lighter to clear it. The real problem is that the glue would sometimes run up the bead and onto the blade. For every bead I seated easily, I had another that got glued in the wrong place, got glued to the blade, or that had a little filament of saliva-kicked superglue coming off of it. Not ideal. I tried initially just dropping them in with tweezers, but i'd othen either miss, or - this leads me to my next problem - the glue had already cured and it would bounce off. The super thin CA seems to cure in, tops, 40 seconds. I did about a third of one side of the battle fortress with this method, and easily most of my time was wasted with burning the needle tip, cleaning off glue smears, or assorted garbage. This method is essentially free, but my time isn't and although I enjoy spending it, I don't like wasting it. I finally gave up on this and moved to method 3:

3.) Drill the holes at least 4mm with a dremel tool, hit the drops with plastic cement, and then use tweezers to shove in a Tychy 8076 rivet.

This method is the least hassle. Drilling the holes is just zip, zip, zip, then glue, glue, glue, and then I cut off the rivets 24 at a time and just pluck and seat. I did the entire rest of the armor side in about an hour.

This side is not without it's disadvantages, though. For one, Method 2 leaves really irregular looking rivets, which is ideal for an Ork vehicle. With method 3, any small glue overage is usually covered by the rivet head, so it looks perfect, maybe new perfect.

The other downside is, well, it's kinda expensive, comparatively. Doing all the rivets with Method 2 is essentially free, whereas after doing the side with the Tychy rivets, my thoughts weren't "well, that's done, great" but instead "well, that's 5 bucks".

I have to try and convince myself that 5 bucks is actually not that much money, I'm on vacation this week with limited time, and it's worthwhile. But there wasn't that much actual cost in this project; believe it or not. The rivets used a lot of resin, but almost everything else I either already had (the FW Killkannon, the tons of bits from years of war store grab bags) or was cheap as shoats ($10 in styrene signs, a $5 piece of PVC pipe). If I do the whole thing with Tychy rivets, it would actually be probably tied for the most expensive part with the tracks - $30 in alumilite, and $30 on rivets.

But it would actually get done. And that makes it worthwhile, I suppose. If someone else has Method 4, I'd love to hear it.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh yeah, I meant to post this and forgot - the real way to have done this, and how I'd do it if I ever do a project like this again: Make a dozen or so armor plates in various sizes of styrene, and then recast them, and then essentially copy & paste them. I eventually did this, but way too late the main body of the vehicle, though they were handy for the Deffrolla. The problem with that method is it removes some of the spontaneity of the model; but it sure would move a lot faster.

Again if someone knows a better way I'd love to hear it.

Out of curiosity, why are you not cutting rivet heads out of styrene rods (round or hex) and applying them with a drop of styrene plastic glue with a needle applicator?

Because they look all big and chunky, and the heads aren't rounded like actual rivets. I've done the method you describe, but I think these look better.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh. My. God.

Look what I found on google

!!!



Automatically Appended Next Post:
I am flying through them now. It took about 5 minutes to make a bunch of rivets, and then in the last 10 minutes I did about an hours worth of riveting. No hole, just mark with a pen, then glue glue glu, dip dip dip, and done. They look just a little less regular than the Tychy ones, which was the effect I want. It's perfect.

And you know who is to thank? You, BrianCJ, because I was googling a deffrolla done with the method you described to show you why I didn't like it, and then I found that tutorial wholly by accident. So, I am actually super, super grateful to you for sparking this chain of events!




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Got the other side complete done in exactly an hour. Much, much faster - these will be my new workhorse rivets.

I also figured out the proper Method #2. I had been drilling a very shallow hole; more of a dimple really. The correct way to do it is to dig a tiny bit deeper - a pit perhaps 1mm deep. Then, fill i with superglue, and - this is the trick - barely touch the bead to the glue (don't push it in). If done right, the surface tension of the glue kind of sucks the bead in and seats it.

Also, if I leave the top off the glue, it doesn't dry out for as long as I'm working; which is the most counterintuitive thing ever and the opposite of ever other CA glue I own, but I'll take it.

Now to get in the shower and go see Iron Man 3.

 Ouze wrote:
Because they look all big and chunky, and the heads aren't rounded like actual rivets. I've done the method you describe, but I think these look better.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh. My. God.

Look what I found on google

!!!



Automatically Appended Next Post:
I am flying through them now. It took about 5 minutes to make a bunch of rivets, and then in the last 10 minutes I did about an hours worth of riveting. No hole, just mark with a pen, then glue glue glu, dip dip dip, and done. They look just a little less regular than the Tychy ones, which was the effect I want. It's perfect.

And you know who is to thank? You, BrianCJ, because I was googling a deffrolla done with the method you described to show you why I didn't like it, and then I found that tutorial wholly by accident. So, I am actually super, super grateful to you for sparking this chain of events!




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Got the other side complete done in exactly an hour. Much, much faster - these will be my new workhorse rivets.

I also figured out the proper Method #2. I had been drilling a very shallow hole; more of a dimple really. The correct way to do it is to dig a tiny bit deeper - a pit perhaps 1mm deep. Then, fill i with superglue, and - this is the trick - barely touch the bead to the glue (don't push it in). If done right, the surface tension of the glue kind of sucks the bead in and seats it.

Also, if I leave the top off the glue, it doesn't dry out for as long as I'm working; which is the most counterintuitive thing ever and the opposite of ever other CA glue I own, but I'll take it.

Now to get in the shower and go see Iron Man 3.

That......is fracking brilliant. Nice find there ouze

And that's what Dakka is for. Great job, Ouze!

All the detailing is done. Started priming today. Ran out of flat black spray paint. I might finishing priming with Vallejo Surface Primer, but I'm not sure - it's a new product to me, hence it's untrustworthy.

Unfortunately not sure how much further I can go for a bit even though I'm pretty hot right now - force majeure. My primary airbrush is in for repairs, and my backup airbrush... well, it's the backup airbrush for a reason. We'll see, perhaps Badger will surprise me with a really fast repair turnaround.

Thanks for the riveting factory method man!

Very helpful....

All primed up:



Rusty orange shades undercoated:



Some more rusty shades, sponged on:



Not sure how long I need to let this dry for a good strong adherence before I apply the salt and hairspray. I've been working on this for nearly 6 months so I'm pretty inclined to give it a bit.

The headlights are there for when you run it without the Dethrolla.

Alternatively...

The headlights are there so the driver can see the expressions of the people he runs over as they go flippyflippyflippy around and around, impaled on the spikes.