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I'm going to be using my airbrush going forward to prime/basecoat Bones. Since the paint is atomized, it sticks really well to the model and only wears off if I really, really make an effort to remove it.
~iPaint
iPaint's Workbench - a blog for all of my painting endeavors
Currently painting: 20mm WW2, 28mm Zombicide
In the pipeline: 28mm Reaper Bones, Dwarven Forge Game Tiles
Alpharius wrote: I've heard everything from "no primer necessary!" to "no primer will work!" to everything between...
I wish Reaper would just 'officially' say what is what here, in terms of a primer to use.
Unless...they have?
Though I haven't looked into it since Bones I, IIRC they had a fair bit of information up on their Forums from various people, including some stickied information on how to prime and treat bones from people who'd experimented with a few different techniques - not Officially official stuff, but endorsed by them. So yeah, try the reaper forums, they'd be the best place to answer questions like that. Just remember to wash your minis first, to clean off the release agent.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/06/28 00:50:25
Looking for a club in Brisbane, Australia? Come and enjoy a game and a beer at Pubhammer, our friendly club in a pub at the Junction pub in Annerley (opposite Ace Comics), Sunday nights from 6:30. All brisbanites welcome, don't wait, check out our Club Page on Facebook group for details or to organize a game. We play all sorts of board and war games, so hit us up if you're interested.
Pubhammer is Moving! Starting from the 25th of May we'll be gaming at The Junction pub (AKA The Muddy Farmer), opposite Ace Comics & Games in Annerley! Still Sunday nights from 6:30 in the Function room Come along and play Warmachine, 40k, boardgames or anything else!
Alpharius wrote: I've heard everything from "no primer necessary!" to "no primer will work!" to everything between...
I wish Reaper would just 'officially' say what is what here, in terms of a primer to use.
Unless...they have?
Reaper says don't use a primer, (one of the big selling points of Bones) and use undiluted (Reaper) acrylic paint as your first coat (too much water and it will just bead up)
Bwahaha, that... does make it kind of creepy. How did he get such a name... was it an earned appellation, did the other knights give it... wait that's even creepier, or was it someone else... gah.
Nightmares.
I'll have to go dig up his regular name and switch so I can sleep again. Garrik the bold or something maybe.
SilverMK2 wrote: Yeah, so apply a layer of paint before painting... may as well just prime them
I don't understand. For me, priming requires a different set up and many hours of drying time. Painting one layer of foundation allows me to set up for painting and segue directly into painting minutes after the first layer, which means I actually ever paint a mini at all ever in this lifetime this year at all.
I've painted more Bones minis in one weekend teaching my nephews how to paint minis than I had painted in the entire previous decade (possibly excluding a fleet of drybrushed BFG escorts, depending on when). I have a few boxes full of primed minis that I somehow lost time/interest/inspiration to complete between administering the primer and setting up to paint them once dry. Even the ones I brushed primer on.
So, please, if you know of a system for priming that is easy and quick to do on a kitchen table set up for painting that evening, please let me know what it is.
Automatically Appended Next Post:
Azazelx wrote: I put a layer of (foundation) paint on my giant (I think it's probably the same one you guys are talking about, big silly-looking sword on him) and the paint is tacky as all hell. And yes, pretty sure he got a good wash as well.
I've never had this problem. Which brand of paint did you use? Did you dilute it with anything? Water and Bones are like cobra and mongoose.
Maybe they read their Kickstarter contract and had ship all the defectives to Australian backers?
This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2014/06/30 07:12:49
BobtheInquisitor wrote: I don't understand. For me, priming requires a different set up and many hours of drying time. Painting one layer of foundation allows me to set up for painting and segue directly into painting minutes after the first layer, which means I actually ever paint a mini at all ever in this lifetime this year at all.
...
So, please, if you know of a system for priming that is easy and quick to do on a kitchen table set up for painting that evening, please let me know what it is.
What I'm planning on doing is using Vallejo's Surface Primer + airbrush. I've had very satisfactory results with that combination on my Flames of War models. The primer is very good at drying smooth, comes in a variety of colors (I use it as the base coat for my German armor, actually), and it levels itself nicely where not even details on the tiny infantry are obscured. By the time I finish cleaning the airbrush, the models at the front of the batch are mostly dry, if not completely. The only real exception I've found are areas where I just put too much primer on, and mentally I'm more ok with paying the stupid tax of a few more minutes there than I am twiddling my thumbs with traditional spray primer. Being as the propellant is just air instead of canned aerosol gases, it should also sidestep the "sprays melt Bones" issue (or at least the issue will be because the primer melts Bones).
Now, the obvious problem is this is not exactly a cheap solution for JUST primering Bones if you don't already have an airbrush + compressor. The next is that while the setup is fairly simple and portable, a bit more care needs to be taken with the kitchen table and you can descend into the "just one more thing" set of problems where fixing one solution (e.g. - a box to catch the extra spray so it doesn't go on the table) leads to another problem (it's now hard to see in the box).
On the other hand, because primering is relatively simple, you can probably get most of it done with just a box (though you will need light if you want to try your hand at actual painting). Also since it's just primer and basic stuff, you don't need to drop tons of money on a brush; a decent cheap starter brush will do fine. The compressor is a bit more of an iffy thing on going "cheap" with, but you needn't shell out huge monies there either. Still, as I said it is far from the cheapest option, even compared to the prices GW wants for their paints it's still somewhat dollar-heavy.
All of that said, when I finally decided to do it I ended up with a setup that lets me work indoors and avoid the issues of weather and humidity fairly nicely. It's also giving me a new dimension to the hobby to explore, which is a fun thing in itself for me even though the inevitable mistakes are a bit frustrating at the time. Just being able to get things going when the mood strikes, even when that mood is at 10PM, has been a big help to getting me towards actually finishing models.
I have the tackiness problem with various Bones mini - with no apparent pattern, both with primer and just straight paint. Either way, a little bit of matte spray (or brush-on) and the mini is fine and the tackiness goes away.
I hear "Army Painter" primers work well with Bones - and I am glad, as that's my primer of choice.
Also, still REALLY glad I got this set:
Update #94
Jun 30 2014
Art Update!
11 comments
30 likes
We know this was an unscheduled update, but we were too excited about the paint job on this not to share! And as a reminder - there will not be an update this Friday, July 4, as we have previously discussed. If you want, you can think of this update as that one.
This Dragons Don't Share was a collaborative paint job by Michael Proctor, Rhonda Bender, Derek Schubert, Anne Foerster, and Shannon Stiltz.
I've never had this problem. Which brand of paint did you use? Did you dilute it with anything? Water and Bones are like cobra and mongoose.
Sorry, I wasn't clear - It was Citadel Foundation paint (the older version of "base"). Foundation comes in a pot. If I'd sprayed it, it would have been through an airbrush anyway.
So, please, if you know of a system for priming that is easy and quick to do on a kitchen table set up for painting that evening, please let me know what it is.
Spoiler:
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/02 18:08:04
(Unless you're having really hot weather in Australia at the moment and the paint layer is trapping plasticiser that is being driven off by the temperature... probably not likely but the only thing vaguely plausible I can come up with)
Well, we did have a hot summer, but it's winter now. I painted the initial stages on during summer.. though I'm also sure that I gave the figure a good wash before starting as well..
Automatically Appended Next Post: I'm going to try savagerobby's idea. Something else that I have found that works is to thin down liquid green stuff to a thin, milky consistency, and "prime" troublesome figures with it.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/03 00:53:24
I had the same problem Azazelx. More than once. Some of my Bones minis painted up just fine, others became tacky (gummy is the word I like) when I put primer on them, and stayed that way. The tree guy I left like that, and he was still gummy weeks later. Depending on the relative humidity at the time, I use either wal-mart brand generic spray paint, or Rustoleum primer, (the ONLY brand I've found that can still function in Southern Illinois humidity).
I'd be anxious for Reaper to address this problem in some fashion.
Lies! Unless being maybe 40 minutes south makes a difference  I use krylon of various types and colors and consider it the best spraypaint I've used. I used rustoleum oncebut iI diidnt like it. I've had bad luck with Walmart color place too.
Primed several things just the other day with proper success, give it a try sometime, I especially like the clear acrylic topcoat they do.
Sounds like I better stick to an airbrush for bones though huh.
I've never had this problem. Which brand of paint did you use? Did you dilute it with anything? Water and Bones are like cobra and mongoose.
Sorry, I wasn't clear - It was Citadel Foundation paint (the older version of "base"). Foundation comes in a pot. If I'd sprayed it, it would have been through an airbrush anyway.
Huh. That's what I use. I'm stumped. Or maybe just lucky.
The only other explanation I can think of is if you forgot to sacrifice a quickening she-goat to Testoroth at the last equinox, but that's too much of a rookie mistake for you.
And undiluted. Applied with a brush.
Was the brush created through the agonizing death of a rare Siberian weasel or was it defective?
So, please, if you know of a system for priming that is easy and quick to do on a kitchen table set up for painting that evening, please let me know what it is.
Spoiler removed
Vallejo, eh? Brush-on colored primers? I thought all the dakka threads about vallejo primers were about them rubbing or peeling off. Did they finally get a mix that works? And doesn't take 24 hours to dry? I'll give it a shot.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/03 05:45:22
Jimsolo wrote: I'd be anxious for Reaper to address this problem in some fashion.
They have, in that link that was provided.
I've had luck slapping on Apple Barrel black craft paint. The stuff's watery, so sorta acted like a wash. A good thing.
The thread mentions Folk Art Tile Medium. Found out it's only $2 on Amazon.
What was the consensus on the transparent figures? I've tried Pledge Future Floor Wax and it sorta works. Ran into those ugly mold lines when I tried it as a wash.
There have been a lot of updates for this one, but here's the latest!
Update #101
Oct 17 2014
Second Update of October
15 comments
17 likes
Shipping Update
We have 5 Containers on the water right now, heading to the USA. We're looking at about 10 days across the Pacific, and then we have a wildly variable amount of time through Customs.
However, we have learned that these 5 containers are not the last shipment - there's still other product that isn't finished yet, and we do not have the ETA on when these last items ship. We promise to keep you all updated. Our next scheduled update is November 7th, but if we receive vital news before then, we will be sure to post it!
Making Sure your Address is Up to Date
It is vital that your addresses be as correct as they can be in our Pledge Manager - http://ks.reapermini.com
We cannot stress this fact enough. It is possible that incorrect addresses in our Pledge Manager could lead to total protonic inversion, the destruction of the multiverse as we know it. Well, Ok, we can stress it too much, that's not actually going to happen. But what could happen, if your address is incorrect, is that your rewards would be delayed even more, seized by customs, returned as undeliverable, and require additional postage to ship a second time - the cost of which will be paid by you, the recipient.
If you have any reason to believe that your shipping address may not be accurate, please log in to the Pledge Manager and go to Account Details, and adjust this address.
If your shipping address is incorrect and we must reship the package, you will be required to pay shipping costs for the second shipment. We will absorb the costs for OUR errors, but this is an entirely avoidable error, and we rely upon you to provide us with accurate information.
If you Need to Contact us
If there is anything wrong with your pledge, and you need to contact us, please be aware that we have Two different possible Kickstarter Pledge Managers now - the Bones II Pledge and the CAV pledges. When you contact us, please be sure to tell us which project this is in regards to, and if you can, include your order number, along with the e-mail address associated with your Kickstarter account. You can contact us at help@reapermini.com any time, but we do need that information to be able to assist you.
Boxes!
So, up until now, our Updates have featured painted and unpainted Bones Models. But we know what you all really want to see! BOXES!
Without further Ado, here's a preview of what the Boxes your Core Force and Expansion Rewards will be delivered to you in!
The Core Set and the Expansions
The Expansion Sets
Art Update
Of course, last Update, we shared with you our corrections for Verocithrax, the Chaos Dragon, but we didn't continue The Adventures of Sir Forscale! To make up for that, today we bring you a double-length Adventure, the next Chapter of our Saga: Sir Forscale and the Scales of Justice!
We begin as Sir Forscale leaves the clutches of the Dragon Nathavarr and the Greedy Adventurers battling over the treasure hoard. Determined to find the exit to this strange land once and for all, he boldly ignores the No Trespassing signs and leaps over a fence, finding a pack of watch...dragons.
Quickly he runs inside the strange and very LARGE house, where the odd six armed Dracolisk Doorman greets him.
Leaving the Dracolisk, he comes upon a Chimera. It's not really a dragon, but one of the heads is, so it counts, ok? Anyway, the Chimera also thinks that Sir Forscale is bringing dinner, but it hasn't made up its minds about what's on the menu!
Feigning a need to visit the little squire's room, Sir Forscale takes his leave. In the hallway, he runs into a large Tortoise Dragon, unconcerned with food. This dragon seems to have lost something, too, and he's more than happy to help our good Knight find the WC.
Before he can sneak out the back door, though,He finds a friendly Silver Dragon, from the Expansion Packs! Perhaps a little too friendly!
He struggles himself free from the tight grip of the Silver Dragon, and discovers that Blightfang, the Forest Dragon next door, is neither as foolish nor as kind.
Fast-talking his way out, Sir Forscale rushes to the next room, only to discover that now that they all think they're being fed, there's no escaping the subject of Dinner.
Providing him a final opportunity to escape, The Dragons of the neighborhood insist on commemorating this Block Party Barbecue with a Family Photo - including Uncle Verocithrax!
to be continued!
Convention Update!
We're going to have a booth and be running a Paint and Take Event at WaCon, in Waco, Texas October 24-26th.
We're also Hosting an Artist Conference at Reaper HQ in Denton, TX October 25-26th. It's a great way to meet your favorite Reaper Artists, and see these previewed models in person!
More news to come - thank you all so much for your patience!
Also, didnt we call that the giant chaos dragon wouldn't be able to stand up? One of the updates mentioned they're going to include a tree with him to support his giant, gangly body.
Yep. I was kind of skeptical too. At least they're fixing it, though they kind of decided to do it and then told us, no discussion, but at least they've determined a work around to let them move forward.
Looking forward to the painting nirvana of so much random choice once this shows up.
Sinful Hero wrote: Also, didnt we call that the giant chaos dragon wouldn't be able to stand up? One of the updates mentioned they're going to include a tree with him to support his giant, gangly body.
They did - a tree made out of metal, for that necessary extra support!
Come along and play Warmachine, 40k, boardgames or anything else! 
 I use krylon of various types and colors and consider it the best spraypaint I've used. I used rustoleum oncebut iI diidnt like it. I've had bad luck with Walmart color place too.
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