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Anyone painting their stuff yet? I've painted the skeletons and zombies along with the core 4 heroes so far.

Found the detail a bit soft on the Zombies, but they paint up well with a few washes and a bit of drybrushing.

I'm trying to get them painted before we play any missions with them, but we're going to try some out this weekend so it might be that I end up playing with unpainted trolls, ghosts and dwarf revenants.

Once my stuff comes in I hope to jump onto the painting quickly, but it's not here yet. I think they're supposed to start shipping the US carton a/b boxes from Chicago on monday and I'm fairly close...but I'm sure there are a ton of packages to move.

I painted my resin Legendary Salamander if that counts. It's on dakka if you want to see.

I thought the details on it were fine. Then again, it was resin...

Got my first games in vs. my fiancee.

I really enjoyed them, and I think the two intro adventures are a really good way to start. We played til the first full party adventure.

First game with the Dwarf and Barbarian was a pretty easy win for the lady.
Second game, I won the first time (got a good combination of Raise Dead and Extra Command cards and was able to swamp the wizard and elf in skelingtons). We play it again and she won handily.
Third game, came with in a hair of a hero victory as they scythed through all the opposition without much worry (although the barbarian was starting to look like a pincushion as time went on - he needed two healing potions before the last fight).

Unfortunately the heroes ran out of time just as the wizard was running for the last door to break the wards. They thought the door was the objective but it revealed a room full of zombies before the actual objective, and they hadn't hurried enough before that.

Thoughts:
It plays really fast - the resolution mechanic is fun (rolling and comparing dice) and fast to resolve, and it's used for spellcasting, fighting and opening locks. The balance seems pretty good - the heroes can wade through a lot of undead, but you'll get the odd lucky hit in and with only 5 health each it stacks up. The Wizard is extremely squishy and needs to be protected but he's also pretty useful in terms of freezing foes in place, opening wards and blasting stuff apart. The elf ranger is the most versatile of the lot, I reckon. It's tense and fun, as well as being pretty fast.

Comparing it to what I've seen of for example Descent Second Edition or even the D'n'D board games, it's very streamlined but manages to include all the classic dungeon crawler tropes in a fairly satisfying way. The Overlord Cards can be really satisfying (getting a 3 Raise Dead at the start of the game can really put the heroes up against it, especially if you can follow it with extra commands to send them swarming in).

It remains to be seen how the mission balance is moving forward. When I reviewed the original game years ago, I said this was a bit more like budget Dwarf Hulk than Warhammer Quest, I can definitely say it plays like a classic dungeon crawler now.

Painting my way through the figures as we play the missions is a pretty strong incentive to get stuff done, too. 22 minis in a week is pretty fast for me, and I'm not unhappy with the outcome. Geeking out over all the components!!!

Sounds like fun, thanks for sharing

Dungeon Saga stuff so far is up on a PM blog now.

Sorry about the crappy photos - the camera is pretty good, so if you click and zoom you can get a good idea of what they're like.

I need a light box.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/670478.page

I had Carton B waiting for me in my parental home. I am there a lot looking after my elderly father so I diverted my copy there.

It was only yesterday that I finally fully unboxed things.

My copy of the dragon was mis-assembled, as was the KS exclusive box. Didn't mind about the box, the lid is askew but it fits within its sheath The dragon was a problem though, badly glued together it will need completely disassembling and reassembling to be worth painting. It would need a fair amount of green stuff to fix and I dont have sculpting skills for that frankly..

So I sent Mantic an email labeled 'Karrathor the Broken' as a play on words of the dragons name.

Got this reply:

Hi <Orlanth>,

We’re not meant to be doing anything with missing items until the 7th, but mainly due to the title of your email, I’m going to send you a slightly different Dragon model. It’s the same one, but the version we had made for Kings of war come separate to the base, so I’ll send that through. If you can repair the Dragon yourself, then you’ll have two .

Thanks Mantic. Lets see if I can indeed save the dragon. As it will be some time before I do any Halpi scenarios, I will likely ignore it and paint the other minis and sort out the replacement.

That's nice of them! I'm hoping they get me my replacement Warlord of Galahir before Christmas, but I'm not too bothered. I've got the Warhammer Age of Reckoning limited warboss that will work fine as a stand in if I feel like running the scenarios.

Oooh I've got that guy too, pretty neat model. I always like to think of it more as a goblin leader with a mount though

Good to hear they're taking care of you on the dragon, any chance of seeing a photo of the mangled original you got?

 Da Boss wrote:
That's nice of them! I'm hoping they get me my replacement Warlord of Galahir before Christmas, but I'm not too bothered. I've got the Warhammer Age of Reckoning limited warboss that will work fine as a stand in if I feel like running the scenarios.

Having now got the mini, I can say he will be worth the extra wait, and is a good warboss for Mantic style orcs in all circumstances. GW orcs are not quite the same, especially regarding the heads.
Don't you have lots of undead to kill first?

Has anyone got the 'Legendary Heroes' set? (These ones) Would be interested to know how these metal minis compare with the minis that come with DS

Weren't the supposed to be resin?

KS versions were resin, retail will be metal.

That staff will not last. A staff that thin will work for plastic, maybe for resin if you are lucky, but not for metal.

When it breaks replace it with a skull?

Because METAL!!!

So its Wednesday, anyone in the US receive their carton a or b yet?

Haven't received Jack. Nor Valendor.

Has anyone else not received their KOW2 Blaine?

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
Haven't received Jack. Nor Valendor.

Has anyone else not received their KOW2 Blaine?

DS is sitting in an unopened box under my desk as work, waiting for me to find enough time to open it. Still no Blaine on dinosaur yet here, either.

 Orlanth wrote:
That staff will not last. A staff that thin will work for plastic, maybe for resin if you are lucky, but not for metal.

Mine seems to be OK so far (metal), but then I've only just painted it and it has not seen any action yet.

The idea of legendary versions is cool and tempting, but I'm a bit disappointed that they don't have the equipment they earned during the campaign (when they actually "become legendary".)

Rordan should be armed with the Revenant King's hammer, and Danor should have the Troll Shaman's staff.


Also not really sold on Danor suddenly sprouting a 3 foot beard mid dungeon, but maybe he drank a Potion of Hair Growth.

Yeah I wasn't really sure about the wizard variant either, unless he went into the hyperbaric(bolic?) time chamber to train for a few years... As an advancement over a career I understand but it seems like you can reach legendary/epic status within the single dungeon campaign in the main box right?

Still, cool models, I skipped them during the kickstarter...but if I love the game enough I could be tempted.

I think the progression is accelerated on purpose for the base game. Playing the "advanced game" you progress a lot slower (giving your characters time to grow impressive beards).

I wouldnt use them for purpose. Valandor set uses the silhouettes for the original models as does the artwork. It would also have made sense for Mantic to use the epic sculpts as artwork on the card reverses.

Above all the epic models should show the progression of the game, as Da Boss said.

Are the models single piece? Because £20 is a lot to pay for models that will fall apart the entire time.

IIRC, of the four legendary base characters, only the barbarian was multi-part (right leg and left arm separate).

The game's designer, Jake Thornton, has finally had a chance to review finished versions of the product. He acknowledges some issues, and that he is "not familiar with the final version of the rules as printed, and there are some notable differences".

http://quirkworthy.com/2015/11/20/while-i-have-a-moment/

I thought that I would ramble a little about where DS is for me.

Firstly, despite the large amount of good stuff in DS, I’m a bit disappointed with some of it too and entirely understand why some of you are quite upset. My experience is very different from yours, so the reasons may differ, and I am seldom if ever entirely happy with things because I’m a bit of perfectionist, but still…

Secondly, as I find time I’m going to add whatever fixes I can for any rules queries. This is often a very time-consuming process that can literally take hours of cross-checking for a single short answer. Not every time, of course, but sometimes, definitely. So bear with me. Remember also that I’ve worked on something like a dozen other games since I last touched DS, so it’s not exactly fresh in my mind.

Anyway…

Over the next few few days I will be dealing with some of the questions on the FAQ page with mostly inline answers rather than a PDF. Partly this is because I am away from my desk, working on a tablet without access to all my original files. Partly this I because I am not familiar with the final version of the rules as printed, and there are some notable differences.

So, if I come up with an answer that doesn’t cover the whole problem, or seems to miss out a reference, please point it out so I can refine it. Once that’s done and I’m back at my desk then I can collate them into a proper PDF FAQ.

In addition to the FAQ there are some articles which might help. I’ll look at this when the building work is finished (did I mention the builders are knocking walls down in the house before we move?) and I’m back at my desk. End of next week? Maybe sooner. The most requested article seems to be something about balancing adventures. A very tricky one, that for a number of reasons. I will have another think though and see if I can come up with anything helpful to expand on what’s in the book already.

As before, please post questions to the FAQ page rather than here so I can find them more easily. Thanks

The FAQ page referred to is here:

http://quirkworthy.com/2015/11/11/dungeon-saga-faq/

 mattjgilbert wrote:
IIRC, of the four legendary base characters, only the barbarian was multi-part (right leg and left arm separate).

Yet Kelden had a separate sword blade. Don't know where to begin with prepping that, but I think I will get just one shot to glue it properly in place.

I haven't played with any of the legendary heroes yet so I cannot tell if they will be sufficiently sturdy, but I had no problem with Keldan's sword blade in gluing/painting (and I even dropped the poor fellow from my desk...)

I use the following "technique":

1. put alittle droplet of super glue on both hand and sword blade end
2. put a tiny tiny ball of greenstuff on the hand
3. press blade into green stuff - hold for 20seconds or so

now the super glue should have properly bonded with the green stuff
if necessary scrape some gs away or "model" it a bit with a toothpick/metal instrument to make it less visible

4. lean keldan in some position between things such that the sword blade is stabilised in position for the time it takes the greenstuff to harden completely (~1 day)



Same technique has worked well for Ally McSween's knife blade (seriously why is that a separate piece?!) and the treeman's separate decorative bits

The same technique also works well if you use Milliput instead of Greenstuff. The superglue seems to bond the Milliput almost instantly, and there's a lot of heat given off by the reaction - you may hear the technique called "hot welding".

If you're pinning, a tiny spot of Milliput in each hole before you put in the pin and superglue makes the joint bombproof.

As well as making the fit better, a thin ring of Milliput + superglue round the joint surfaces also helps to hold the assembly together. IIRC, my old metal Mordor Troll is about 25% Milliput, so the result is strong as well as fast-acting.

Thank you for this. I didnt know about this trick at all.

Someone should do an article.

I do something similar with blue tack, glue on both ends and blue tack in the middle. If its a big enough join I'll put the tack down first and superglue just one side to save effort. It's a slightly weaker join but they rarely break for me and usually fix really easily.

Greenstuff is probably the snobby 'proper' way to do it though, so that's probably the way to go for others.

The miliput method sounds neat too.