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 trollmeat wrote:
I don't know what I'm doing. I have a billionty different little projects going at the moment, and I'm not sure what I will get completed before the deadline (for example, I wont be able to do anything for all of next week).

Well that still gives you a week and a bit of working. Keep at it, don't give up. If you don't finish, you don't finish, but you didn't quit.
How's that for motivation.

Would PVC pipe and the mesh from the dead stereo count as the 2 items?

The pipes would need to stay intact as the mesh (not to mention the rest of the stereo) is not.

You could nominate any part of the stereo for the second item really. Remember you are getting judged on how well you use both items, not just on the outcome (but both are important).

Just under 3 weeks left. Go to it chaps, you can do this.

Dr H - As I was reading that I imagined you with sports coach posture, knee raised on a bleacher inspiring your team to dig in and win the game. I'm all motivated now!

Keep at it trollmeat, since I saw you pull apart that stereo I have been waiting to see what you have planned!

Nice Work All.

So I did say I would try to get something in. Here are the two pieces I will use:

A meat package and some object from an old analog timer. No promises that I will finish. More photos on the blog.

17 June eh?

Oh, and Sports couch? Naw, Doc has a palanquin.

Red, it's late at night and I'm on my phone. But can you check the size of your timer piece against the size limit in the op.

Good luck.

Timer piece is 40mm long... and 21-22 mm diameter I could have sworn it was an inch. Ah well, I'll find something else, and update the photo probably Sunday.

I still plan to enter something, probably just one finished dome.

Need to sort out gubbins and prime before I can paint it and glue in all the flora though. Which base for the support pillar?



Plasticard tube set around the cardboard tubes, allows for the easy removal of the dome leaving a pillar that I could use for a landing pad or just add a damaged portion to the top, should I desire to change things up...

Or, I could go with the Lays Stax can (or wtf ever they call them) can which has some interesting contours built in. By gluing the platform to the can lid, I could easily remove it and sub in another lid with a different top glued to it.

Either piece would get proper gubbins to go with it, probably some straw-pipes to suggest irrigation and some other techy bits.

The plastic+cardboard tube setup is probably gonna be the sturdier rig, but if I adequately glue the stax can to the board section, either should be fine.

But which one looks better?

The stax tube isn't round, is it?

I'm leaning towards the one on the left.

I missed what the bubble-domes were made from/where you got them?

Plasticard and cardboard

 Red Harvest wrote:
Timer piece is 40mm long... and 21-22 mm diameter I could have sworn it was an inch. Ah well, I'll find something else, and update the photo probably Sunday.

For the sake of a few mm, I'll let you have it. It looked much smaller than that on my little screen.

Good to hear you are still going for it, Grim'.

Alright two votes for plasticard, I'll stick with it. Stax tube is indeed more of an oval with narrow sides.

The domes are clear plastic serving/storage bowls from Walmart. I got a nested set of 3 for just under 6 bucks. I'm still trying to source an affordable 24" dome for another section of the board... but the smaller domes are working out pretty well.

I'll have to work out the gubbins and get everything primed soon.

Before you do that, I'd suggest thickening up the platforms. They might be sturdy now, but they seem like they'll end up being a little flimsy in the long-run, especially after you're adding glue and more weight to them.

Even something as 'simple' as some girders or braces underneath would help significantly with both how they look and how they'll perform.

Not been feeling the mache.


We have bucket loads of playdoh in the house, much of it unrecognisably bilious, like some awful nurgle/slaanesh mash-up (Fabulous Bile, anyone?). And of course, when it dries hard, and cracks...

Leading to...


And...


And with newly-rocketed ship for scale:


Huzzah!


graven

Ingenious graven!

yeah... i lke that very mucho! did you use super glue to get the play doh stick to the base model? or is the mass sticky enough?...

Well it seems solid enough and has stuck well enough that I can prod it without fear. It is cracking (don't know how well you can see this):
Thanks chaps! Am a bit concerned about the weight of the thing. We shall see.

i think you discovered a gold mine with that material... something that could be a true blessing for modelling...damn... now i need to surpress the urge to try that too

Hey all,

Ell we are definitely getting to the pointy end of the competition and there are some real beauties coming through!

I have been busy today.... got a can of grey primer and got to work....

Got the piece primed and then got stuck in with some weathering..... still lots to do but definitely going to finish!

Good luck everyone!

oh... thats good looking... by the way... i painted once with sugar colour... a bit sticky first but a nice washlike effect...

Preaching to the choir, Magos is a big fan of coffee!

 inmygravenimage wrote:
Preaching to the choir, Magos is a big fan of coffee!

Indeed my friend..... Infact the better it smells the more likely I am to use it.... .... well.... in most cases!

And for those of you who prefer your eyes not to bleed


...



Priming!

Good progress chaps. Keep it up.

 Dr H wrote:

 Red Harvest wrote:
Timer piece is 40mm long... and 21-22 mm diameter I could have sworn it was an inch. Ah well, I'll find something else, and update the photo probably Sunday.

For the sake of a few mm, I'll let you have it. It looked much smaller than that on my little screen.

Good to hear you are still going for it, Grim'.

No worries, I just use another cryovac container instead, but in a different manner. No need for an exception here.


And with primer on the first one

Still much work to do on the details.

Did you just make that house? 'cause it's pretty fantastically designed.

Truly epic work going on here gang!
And on with the base.


Just a couple so you can see how I'm getting on. It will need another coat if only to deal with the cracking; however, it's stable, solid and not flaking off, all of which are good. The next step will be gs/Milliput to add some definition to the smooth bits, hide corners of newspaper, and remodel the surface of the kitchen roll. But, generally, I think this has been largely a success!

Still enjoying the progress, keep it up all!

@inmygravenimage: It is definitely starting to come together now, good job.

after an incredibly slow start, decent progress in the middle, and now having procrastinated heading towards the end, i realize i probably will not have time to finish my piece. RL issues, including applying for and getting a new job, got in the way....not to mention the Rangers having 2 7 game stanley cup playoff series, and my discovery of the video games "the interesting adventures of van helsing" 1,2 and 3)

i will keep at it, but i'm not at all confident of finishing at the level i had hoped. would have to radically scale back on the rivets and basically just tidy up the painting of what i have done already.




"I'll get you next time, Gadget,...next time!"

A lot of truly awesome scratchbuilding work going on here - great work folks! I'm a bit late on this thread (only just registered for Dakka Dakka), so probably won't be entering something. However, I have some mould making to do in the next week, so would you like some pictures of that to add to all the terrain making goodness?

Myself and a mate make resin cast terrain, which we paint up and sell online - have a look at our website (www.reddragongaming.co.uk to see some of our stuff. We're not so much into making stuff from household objects, although our originals are usually polyfilla, sand, bits of stone, stick and bark, matchsticks, card, etc. We then seal them with PVA glue, making silicone moulds out of the and then make batches cast in resin. The advantage of resin is that it's really tough stuff - useful for me because I often drop things!

I've put a few pics below. We also make the boards in these pics - MDF, sand for texture, lots of drybrushing, etc.

Cheers,

Nic
Red Dragon Gaming



Some LotR figures - hedges in the background, one of our forest bases with some Javis trees in it, and dudes using our trenches for cover in the foreground.



Some of our desert stuff for Flames of War. The rocks were cast from pieces of bark mounted on filler and sand! In the foreground you can just see our barbed wire and tank traps. And the guys in the middle are using dug-in markers (more realistic than just putting a token by them).



And finishing off with some good old Warhammer Dwarves. The dry stone walls were made from tiny stones found on a beach all glued together before being moulded. The artillery are being protected by trench end sections. We do our trenches in sections so they can be configured in many, many different ways. As a Warhammer Dwarf player and a Flames of War British Infantryman I like to have bits that give my artillery some protection. The hedges in the background have spongey flock on top which we have soaked in PVA glue to make it rigid once it dries. This makes it really durable but still looks like soft spongey hedge!

Two weeks huh? Man... I gotta stop signing up for these things... spring/summer is brutal in terms of painting/modeling availability.